WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

[redline]

Hondatech, Number5...when you open it up, check the stabilizer piece..its that huge, white, squarish, plastice piece in the bolt carrier. It sometimes travels forward, preventing that weird traingle shaped thingy (the one with the bearing..attached to the trigger assembly) from moving all the way back.

[cocofr69]

Thats the dogs danglers.....you took Renegadecows excellent design a step further.

WE-tech should be paying for this. BLOWS AWAY their shallow minded design.

 

OTTO

 

 

Thanks Otto

[HSOJGNILRAD]

you guys check part #59 if it is not tightened down all the way it will not rack with the charging handle. I dealt with this on both of my rifles.

[PaulB]

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...411&st=1180

 

post 1185

 

This shows the fix for the 'not fully cocking prob' i followed this and its been very successful.

 

 

[Autotechnica]

The problem is that's a temporary fix for the broken part#59. Mine lost both legs. Despite not being able to shoot in automatic mode, the Semi works pretty well.

 

 

With both the legs broken in mine, I can't fire in either modes. I just hear a click and then a small pop. Occasionally (maybe 10% of the time), it will work again in full auto and I can empty a mag, but that's very rare. Just waiting for Horizon to send me some replacement part #59's, I'll def do the file/drilling mods.

 

Bry

[WETTI]

To everyone with a broken part #59:

 

I've been pouring my brains out on how such a simple part would break ever since Rottenotto's had broken some time ago. Mine broke just last Sunday (although surprisingly, it didn't affect performance not one bit) and since I'm not one to pay $11 shipping for a $1.50 part, I gave it some more brain juice.

I've come to the conclusion that the part is flawed in its design. Because the prongs are split all the way to the top and cut at sharp, right angles at the corners, the force exerted by the hammer becomes rotational which is why they start splitting from the inside corner like a revolving door as illustrated below.

 

Top view cross section

 

In theory, the solution is simple: keep the top part of the split closed as such (at right):

 

The point is that the extra material will support the prongs and keep them from folding in plus the whole length of the folded corner would act like an angle bar where stress would be evenly distributed; no corners to start cracking. I've already purchased some 1mm thick stainless steel sheet to prototype the design and should be able to test it out by the weekend.

 

Point well taken!! Thank you my friend!

[Number5]

Some excelent help guys!

The rif actually started to Correct itself and work, but ive tightend bits up for now and will look at the modifications in the morning!

 

Cheers again!

 

J.

[renegadecow]

I hadn't thought about having the outer corners radiused, no doubt Cocofr69's design would be even stronger.

Anyhow, I'm done with the prototype (without radius corners yet). I used 1mm thick 304 grade stainless steel and now my shoulders are complaining from lack of decent machining tools.

 

Works ok though I've only shot 3 mags through it since this morning. Will report back on the weekend.

Edited April 22, 2009 by renegadecow

[HSOJGNILRAD]

I hadn't thought about having the outer corners radiused, no doubt Cocofr69's design would be even stronger.

Anyhow, I'm done with the prototype (without radius corners yet). I used 1mm thick 304 grade stainless steel and now my shoulders are complaining from lack of decent machining tools.

 

Good deal I will take 2

[Vila]

I know its in this thread somewhere, but I couldn't find it, but here's my problem. I recently have had some firing issues with my WE M4. It started with the mags purging gas when on full auto, then it did it a few times on semi. Now it won't fire at all. I've looked over most of the parts and have only found an issue with the o-ring on the nozzle. (part #45 or #46, I'm not sure which) Any idea's on what I might be over looking?

[Lupus78]

I've encountered the firing pin-issue more than once. Usually it doesn't bother, since before I use the gun I just rack the charging handle once without the magazine and feel with finger from magazine well if the firing pin is inside. If not, it just pops inside with a gentle push. After that it's ready to rock. Also I've noticed that if you lock the bolt back and release it with bolt stop mechanism, it usually slams with enough force to set the pin back by itself. Tightening the screws might help, but not always.

 

I'm also waiting for reinforced #59. Luckily I've got one spare if/when the current one breaks down.

 

WETTI: Any plans to produce aftermarket steel outer barrels? I'd love to have one! I wouldn't mind some extra sturdiness and weight towards the barrel. Somehow the current aluminum outer barrel (with steel carbine extension) just seems a bit cheap.

Edited April 22, 2009 by Lupus78

[wolfsbane]

DIAMOND GEEZERS! all the input for part 59 is fantastic!!

[WETTI]

I've encountered the firing pin-issue more than once. Usually it doesn't bother, since before I use the gun I just rack the charging handle once without the magazine and feel with finger from magazine well if the firing pin is inside. If not, it just pops inside with a gentle push. After that it's ready to rock. Also I've noticed that if you lock the bolt back and release it with bolt stop mechanism, it usually slams with enough force to set the pin back by itself. Tightening the screws might help, but not always.

 

I'm also waiting for reinforced #59. Luckily I've got one spare if/when the current one breaks down.

 

WETTI: Any plans to produce aftermarket steel outer barrels? I'd love to have one! I wouldn't mind some extra sturdiness and weight towards the barrel. Somehow the current aluminum outer barrel (with steel carbine extension) just seems a bit cheap.

 

I'm sure the A3 & the CQBR steel barrel will be available for individual ordering at some point. We have no plans on making the M4A1-length or any other length steel outer barrels, but I'll definitely relate the message to the factory boys

[rottenotto]

I know its in this thread somewhere, but I couldn't find it, but here's my problem. I recently have had some firing issues with my WE M4. It started with the mags purging gas when on full auto, then it did it a few times on semi. Now it won't fire at all. I've looked over most of the parts and have only found an issue with the o-ring on the nozzle. (part #45 or #46, I'm not sure which) Any idea's on what I might be over looking?

 

 

Check the tiny, loose fitting, floating valve located in the nozzle head. It is either broken or starting to "go away".

 

Check first and Ill explain later whats happening.

 

 

[Vila]

Otto: It appears ok, but I haven't figured out how to completely remove it from the nozzle to be sure. It may be going out, as I can't think of what else it could be.

[PaulB]

Just to add, i have successfully placed a packer inside the nozzle, behind the version one part 42.

This has reduced the fps from 460 to 350, perfect!!

 

The disconnector mod seems to have worked as well.

[morb]

omg... i'm lurking this thread for i don't know how long

 

Based on these experiences that i see on this forum, it's better to wait untill WE releases a 'fool proof' version?

I have absolutely no experience with GBB technics, AEG is no problem but as far as GBB goes...

 

Would you guys recommend me to wait or is there a V3 of the WE out yet? Only problem is that at the fields in my country are limited to 350 fps.

Will the CO2 version with a 300 valve solve this problem?

[PaulB]

omg... i'm lurking this thread for i don't know how long

 

Based on these experiences that i see on this forum, it's better to wait untill WE releases a 'fool proof' version?

I have absolutely no experience with GBB technics, AEG is no problem but as far as GBB goes...

 

Would you guys recommend me to wait or is there a V3 of the WE out yet? Only problem is that at the fields in my country are limited to 350 fps.

Will the CO2 version with a 300 valve solve this problem?

The version 3 has been released with steel internals and a new hop. Fps around the 350 mark.

 

Buy one, you won't regret it.

 

I imported one of the first rifles to be sold. Yes, i have had to do some work on it, but its awesome.

[morb]

The version 3 has been released with steel internals and a new hop. Fps around the 350 mark.

 

Buy one, you won't regret it.

 

I imported one of the first rifles to be sold. Yes, i have had to do some work on it, but its awesome.

 

That's good to hear, is this the gas version you're talking about? I see that you're from England, so you have a bit of the same weather as us here...

350 fps in cold weather with green gas? How's the accuracy / range?

[theprodigy]

well we be advailble to buy the rail system on the cqbr?

[redline]

Just to add, i have successfully placed a packer inside the nozzle, behind the version one part 42.

This has reduced the fps from 460 to 350, perfect!!

 

The disconnector mod seems to have worked as well.

 

PAULB, THAT IS THE EXACT NEWS I'M LOOKING FOR!! What exactly is a packer? what did you use specificaly?

 

and which nozzle was shooting at 460 fps? was this supposed to be the 350fps nozzle?

[PaulB]

REDLINE

 

My m4 is version one. They chrono around 450-490. Mine was doing 460 with propane.

I swapped the part 42 for the 300fps part 42 from AB. That chrono'd around 250 on propane.

Somebody else on here recommended using a 7mm bearing behind the 42 as a 'packer'

I did this but it came in at around 280, so i carefully ground the bearing's thickness by around 2mm to make it slimmer.

It's cool now. If you could find a small washer a bit thinner than the bearing it would be easier.

 

Regards

[redline]

REDLINE

 

My m4 is version one. They chrono around 450-490. Mine was doing 460 with propane.

I swapped the part 42 for the 300fps part 42 from AB. That chrono'd around 250 on propane.

Somebody else on here recommended using a 7mm bearing behind the 42 as a 'packer'

I did this but it came in at around 280, so i carefully ground the bearing's thickness by around 2mm to make it slimmer.

It's cool now. If you could find a small washer a bit thinner than the bearing it would be easier.

 

Regards

 

 

Paul B, thanks for the quick reply! So now, I just have to find a 7mm washer that's thicker than your common washer, but thinner than the bushing/bearing.

 

Paul, I'm assuming you took out the 300fps #42 you ordered from AB, and swapped in the original Version1 #42 plus the bearing?

[PaulB]

Paul B, thanks for the quick reply! So now, I just have to find a 7mm washer that's thicker than your common washer, but thinner than the bushing/bearing.

 

Paul, I'm assuming you took out the 300fps #42 you ordered from AB, and swapped in the original Version1 #42 plus the bearing?

 

Yep, you need the high power one. The packer pushes the 42 closer to the front of the nozzle and reduces the gas flow.

[7jl22sea]

Quick question for all you WE users; Have you noticed a problem with the recoil knocking your optics off alignment, or is the recoil not strong enough to do that?