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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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I >wish< I had that metal grommet. I slid a rubber oring over the inner barrel and pushed it in there before I put the flash hider on. Inner barrel is now stable.


Well.......here is my results for the new chromed inner barrel and hop up design.


WE quality control - and inconsistency between parts - is going to be a problem for the masses. You will hear/read wildly different reviews of this new hop system based solely on people getting bad parts.


Every one of these green hopup rubbers I have is different. You have to "hand select" the right one. Sort of tough if you dont know what the right one must look like, right?


I picked the one that had both lips exactly the same size (symmetrical) and the one that >just< enters the inner barrel, looking from the inside.


The adjuster wheel has TONS of hop adjustment, its just you will reach a point that you cant reach the knob anymore to turn it (twisting it forward for more hop.)


I turned the hop adjuster as far forward as I could (for more hop) then disassembled the gun. I could have made at least 5 more turns!! You just cant since the wheel is so cramped and hard to reach.


I did not need to shim the green rubber, the metal bb pushed it far enough to see some 'positive hop' happening. I did shim it to see what would happen and things immediately got worse. Erratic bb fligh - overhop or underhopped each shot.


In the end after >much< f-ing around, I was able to get the bb flying flat and tightly spaced, shot after shot with no shots hooking in any direction. This was with .28g bb's.


At 50 feet the accuracy is the same as all but the most high end AEG's. (High end AEG's shoot tighter)


This is in either semi or full auto.


Effective long range distance for me this afternoon (its 55degrees F) is 150 feet with the same focused groupings. This is in semi or full auto - which I did NOT expect to see.


Maximum distance is approaching 200 feet. Most unreal range I have seen.


I repeat, there is NO hooking at all. No bb's shooting for the sky out of nowhere. Every shot is the same.


The groupings are a little loose for my taste, but NIGHT AND DAY BETTER than the gen1 design.


One thing to note is that the green hopup material seems to have a "warm up period". It takes quite a few shots to get the bb flight stabilized. This would be a gun that has been sitting.


This is of course is likely just the wet propane and silicone being burned off (rubbed off) by the bb's Once the rubber is dryer, it gets to business.


My take? MAJOR improvement over Gen-1 hopup.

thats exactly what i wanted to hear

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Pretty sweet there CoCo.


Agreed on the flexible nub. Easy to sort though. Just alter the schematic to have a concave semi circular aperture in the actuator arm. Either that, or a solid H nub, like the VSR.


My one concern, where is the adjustment screw? I don't think there is enough meat above the arm itself to contain an adjustment screw, or is the same bevelled nut doing the job as it does in the original?


I'm not sure that the bevelled nut will operate the arm what with it being such an acute angle. But I like the idea.... very sound.


My own personal view would be to have a very similar system of AEG barrel installation. But instead of having an internally adjustable unit, the adjuster is just a long grub screw that is accessible from the top rail of the receiver. Much like the Tanaka or Ares/Star systems.

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The barrel is held by the usual clip used with AEG:




About the nub, i tried to make the same that on the VSR, because The chief said it was the better for accuracy ;) , i tried to find pictures of VSR's hopup and i found this:




so i did this:




@ The chief: do you think that it's the kind of solid H nub used in the VSR or must i modify it to use a AEG nub ?

For the adjustement, it's the same nut as the original HU wich is used to push the arm, this allows to make a drop in hop-up without modifying the bolt or the receiver.


To push the arm, there is a new part #115 after the bevelled nut, with a curved shape:






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yeah, thats excellent. It's not instantly obvious from the profile view, but the 3D view shows it perfectly. That's probably a better solution than using the flexible AEG nub.


That is some excellent work.



Thinking about the barrel location (I always look for the easy solution), rather than having to machine the barrel shroud to accept the AEG clip, could you not just drill a section out of the barrel so it can take the existing small roll pin? Or something like 3 grub screws placed around the barrel to locate it?


Just a thought.


But that is indeed some truly fantastic CAD work. Are you using SolidWorks?

Edited by The Chef
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Thinking about the barrel location (I always look for the easy solution), rather than having to machine the barrel shroud to accept the AEG clip, could you not just drill a section out of the barrel so it can take the existing small roll pin?


Thanks :)


In fact, the barrel is a regular AEG inner barrel, it's a drop in for the bucking and the barrel, no modification needed.


You're right, i'm using Solidworks.

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Coco, you and Otto should take some debs and take over WE. You guys are awesome.


I second that. All WE needs to do is copy those schematics. about the solid vs soft hopup, I doubt the solid nub has direct contact with the BB. At the upper end of the pic with the VSR hopup, you can see the hop up rubber. So the H-shape nub should press against the AEG-type hopup rubber, much like a Madbull Shark-type hopup packing.


not only would it solve the hop up issues, but also the need for specialized inner barrels, since all aftermarked AEG barrel would work... :rolleyes:

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The drawings are nice but accounts for nothing until a prototype is produced and tested. The way I look at it, the parts would require relatively tight tolerances for it to work, assuming it works. That's why manufacturers design parts to work together while maintaining cost efficient manufacturing process.


Don't get me wrong coco I like the lineart and I admire that DIY spirit. I just don't think it's fair to WE when someone says they need replacing and whatever after merely seeing some CAD drawings. Many design proposals mentioned by us may very well have been tried and chucked aside by airsoft makers. I only wish what were those discarded blueprints which in so knowing, would allow us to zero in the "perfect" hop design.

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here's the explosion drawing for you guys again:






This thing is epic.


It has a bearing that can turn left and right, correct?


But that part is sitting in the end of the buffer tupe where it isn't mobing at all, correct?


I mean if this was springloaded in the right direction it might smooth out the blowback (people want the oposite though) similar to the system used in the H&K pistols.


I will properly buy it because that is just so amazingly hilarious.

Edited by somegirls
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I think it acts like the bearing spring guide in an AEG or the VSR.


The buffer sits where it is, but allows the spring to rotate on the bearing.


I think its a bit of overkill in this respect, but I can see why its used in an AEG.

The constant compression/decompression of the spring might cause some rotational movement in the spring, which can now move freely rather than stressing the spring.

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Just received my chrome barrel and spare hop rubber. As Otto mentioned the situation with the new hop rubber is an absolute joke, I for one demand a couple of free replacements. One for the already installed and out of shape hop rubber and another for the so called spare which is a totally different size and also out of shape. I am starting to lose patience here!!!


I would suggest somebody take the actual spec sheet and drawing down to the factory producing these hop up rubbers to find out what the hell is going on.

Edited by Marky [UE]
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I was actually about to say "I'm done" but I just ordered a Madbull Noveske RAS for good today.




okay, heute 3 Lieferungen bekommen


KAC Flashhider

VLTOR Flashhider mit markings (nicht montiert)

500 FPS nozzle

Anti rotation pins

KAC Trigger guard

MicroT-1 clone mit in der Breite verstellbarer Larue high mount

(nicht nötig da das CASV die perfekte Höhe mitbringt)


img_0300rz30.jpg img_0302gx64.jpg img_0303dazj.jpg

img_0304fmp0.jpg img_03058m5p.jpg img_0306nyln.jpg

img_0311vbnq.jpg img_0312zl46.jpg


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Redwolf! It's a G&P.


I searched the whole web but I love it.


You can unscrew the threaded thin end of the flashhider and the front portion is filled with some kind of plastic like a surpressor. It actually is some kind of compensator I think.


anyways, it is pretty.



this is the other one I ordered or the longer barreled version:




gotta luv vltor markings...

Edited by somegirls
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