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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Where? Somewhere like half way?

 

I think that's where the Bolt completely pushes down the hammer.

So it's either the stabilizer itself or where the bolt "continues" after the stabilizer.

 

Right

One way to see would be to mark the bolt and hold it right where its getting stuck on the trigger unit with the upper rec. off

 

In messing around with my rifle I had a similiar "stuck" state but that was when the trigger was "fired" and the bolt was back at the same time because I had the buffer tube off.

Edited by TDS
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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Just got the TSC CNC hammer and sear. I used to have the problem where the valve knocker would not reset when charging the rifle. The new hammer seems to have fixed the problem as I think the little nub on the old hammer that lifts part #66 to reset the pin was worn.

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hey tangman, i wud like to point out that i was using co2 with .28 bb's ...i have tried on propane and the results where pretty much the same,but at 25 degrees celcius. if you take the locking nut part down as much as you can( you wudnt be able to lock it as it goes below where you could fit a allen key in) you will get high fps. I do not use the stabiliser at all on the rod,i have had no problems with it ,so far..

 

Does that mean there isn't really much point of getting the adjustable rod if you are using green gas mags?

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for those whose bolt is getting stuck during cycling , make sure the buffer tube is screwed into the receiver far enough as I have seen this problem before when the buffer tube was about 2mm too far out .

This allowed the bolt carrier to travel too far back and damage the semi cutoff lever in the process

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for those whose bolt is getting stuck during cycling , make sure the buffer tube is screwed into the receiver far enough as I have seen this problem before when the buffer tube was about 2mm too far out .

This allowed the bolt carrier to travel too far back and damage the semi cutoff lever in the process

 

This might be one reason. I installed the Magpul ASAP endplate and because of its shape it misses one turn of the buffer tube.

Would something like a 2mm shim do the job?

Putting it at the end of the buffertube before the rear plastic buffer?

 

But I think I figured out the main reason:

For those who're struggling with that problem please Push the bolt stop lever OUT! What I mean by this is pushing the paddle down all the way like you'd be releasing the bolt forward.

So push it and cycle the bolt.

If it makes the problem dissappear let me know! (So we can find a solution)

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There is the solution of your problem: take a flat screw driver and simply srcew on the Buffer Retainer, it's too high.

 

Edit: Lol I didn't see your videos and saw your problem instantly...It occured on my gun too! Simply screw the Buller Retainer back in its hole and the problem will disappear!

 

Right, Tangman just do this:

 

http://www.imagefreehost.com/files/1907200...1169093353.jpeg

 

and use some thread lock ( @Eliminator :P vi, j'ai compris où on met le frein filet )

 

Thanks guys, unfortunately it's not the buffer retainer, I have screwed it as far down as possible and it's still happening

 

for those whose bolt is getting stuck during cycling , make sure the buffer tube is screwed into the receiver far enough as I have seen this problem before when the buffer tube was about 2mm too far out .

This allowed the bolt carrier to travel too far back and damage the semi cutoff lever in the process

 

AND WE HAVE A WINNER!

 

:D x 100000000

 

Thanks to everyone who helped, hope this helps someone else in the future!

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Used my M16 at a skirmish for the first time today. Only had .25g bb's - they flew about 20m straight and then just went vertical - this was with the hop wound right off! Same for mates CQBR. So it was pretty unusable like that and I will be trying heavier bb's next time.

 

I have a problem with 2 out of my 5 mags where the plastic bb follower gets stuck about the 3rd of the way down in the channel. I took one apart and the plastic follower moves in the channel ok without the spring but fitting the spring and its get stuck on the way down. Need to have a closer look at this but I'm wondering if I need to dremel out some of the channel to allow the follower to move easier. BTW - refitting the spring is a *badgeress*!!!

 

None of my mags lock back on empty - it looks like the little nubs that activate the bolt catch don't protrude enough. I've ordered a replacement one from airsoft123 and if that sorts it I'll buy some more.

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For now i have lost semi auto at all. Constant burts of two shots. Mag is falling during shooting. Dunno if this has anything common with #83 or #75 or something else. Fps is back in full strengh, so i have to buy UDGR from Airsoft123. Wondering if previous chronograph wasn't broken or something.

Edited by Nazio
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My semi/auto issues, the latest update. After a private message from TrooperX, thanks for the help, I double checked the positioning of my buffer tube and the buffer retaining pin. They could both be improved so I have tightened the pin and refitted the buffer tube. Unfortunately the semi/auto burst issue still exists. After a number of counts during my mag tests I can also confirm that the number of shot cycles per mag stands at 28. I suppose this shows consistency somewhere, back to the drawing board.

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Marky[uE] did You recently try to install quick detach sling swivel?

 

I installed a Magpul ASAP sling mount a fair while back, long before I started having my semi/auto burst issues. If the Magpul ASAP is installed correctly then it doesn't change anything over the standard part it replaces. That being said I can confirm that the buffer tube is now in an improved position, if I could screw it any further in it would be past the buffer retaining pin. And as mentioned this change has not corrected my issue.

Edited by Marky [UE]
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okay guys, I used all my power and gave it an additional turn. But now the tube is actually too far in and I can't closed the recievers. So the buffer tube can't be the problem.

 

So I think there must be too much friction somewhere between the semi cutoff lever and the underside of the boltcarrier or the stabilizer.

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As I said. With the ASAP installed you cannot screw the tube in the way you should. Those two "knobs" on both sides won't let you do the last turn.

 

"you cannot screw the tube in the way you should", in my case at least in certainly not correct, no offence but are you sure your ASAP is installed as per instructions? is it a real Magpul or a copy?

 

I know which knobs you are describing but they don't interfere with the installation of the buffer tube at all. As I mentioned previously I couldn't screw the buffer tube in any further if I wanted to as it is already flush with the buffer tube retaining pin.

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ur rifle shoots once when you pull the trigger and then another shot when you release it?

057nur.jpg

 

check ur trigger, on the pic above the right edge of the trigger might be rounded off because of wear. that part cant stop the hammer anymore specially if you upgrade to a tsc steel hammer

Edited by mnmc10
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My rifle, near the end of the day, in auto, I would pull the trigger and then the gun would go off anywhere from 1-3 seconds later, ive a feeling this was a dirt/pressure issue as my mags were probably mostly empty by then and the gun was filthy when I got home with it, Good call though I'll check the trigger sears when I get the chance.

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Sorry for changing topic but I'm getting my WE tomorrow and I just remembered there was a method of lowering the FPS by butting a bushing inside the nossle floating valve thinge.

I just couldn't rembrr what mm bushing it was. It was either 7 or 8. Does anyone know or remember.

 

I've asked this on here before but no one answered. Could the g&p comp ml2 aimpoint survive the WE's recoil?

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