accuracy Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) @Accuracy I think I know what's your problem. I experience the same thing when I got some replacement nozzles. When you chamber the first round you use the charging handle, which is relatively slow when compared to a bb being chambered by a by a previous shot. This allows the bb to be fed and sit where it should in the hop up chamber. So when I would fire the first round a second round would come out but at a slow velocity, hence double feed. What was happening was the momentum of the bolt upon firing was so great after the initial first round went off, the second round that was supposed to be chambered in the hop up, would get push past the whole hop up chamber and the remaining gas pressure would allow it to exit the barrel at a very slow velocity. What I did was shave a milimeter of the tip of the nozzle and this allowed the bb to not get pushed past the hop up. After that I had no more issues. I was using modified brass nozzles at the time. Then I switched to the non-CO2 steel nozzles without any modification. The nozzle was fitting really tight into the hop up chamber but over time it loosened up. Strangley after putting a lot rounds through it works fine without modification. I have 2 WE M4's and my newer one was doing exactly what you rifle is doing. So I put the shortened steel nozzle in and it works fine. Hope this helps you. Wow thanks! What you are saying does make sense. I will try that later tonight. much appreciated, but let me try to see if maxing out the hopup will change anything. but it's still wierd since i switched from my 500+ fps valve to my 400fps one. and i've used both valves a lot before with no troubles ever, until just now Edited August 27, 2009 by accuracy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) Where the story begins ? Well i think with installation of CO2 nozzle with new housing, and plastic system stabilizer. Stabilizer was moving so i did glue it to back of carrier. But still rifle did not work properly. When i did install CO2 nozzle, then i was able to feel that rifle is charging with some resistance. Few events have gone, rifle did work, apart that double feeding. So when i did seal all my propane mags, decided to make full auto test. This is how it ended up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdXAaMCRsBM Staright after this, i did decide to do the same thing with CO2 mag: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3r_k9FGGCs At the end i have disassembled the rifle and found this: System stabilizer did not put guide rod in center position, what was main reason of design. O - ring went off, and i am not willing to buy whole new nozzle or whole set. I did switch back to old housing and TS One steel nozzle (350 fps they claim - i know is above 400 fps). But still i am not convinced what was the real reason. Was valve guide not centered ? And do i realy need that stabilizer thing ? Edited August 27, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Yeah I have heard similar stories about the stabilizer and fitment issues. On both of my guns I wrapped the screw that attaches the nozzle assembly to the bolt carrier with plumbers/teflon tape and I don't any issues. I just make sure that the nozzle assembly looks relative straight and tighten. Otto uses blue loctite which also works to keep the nozzle assembly from coming apart from the bolt carrier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) well. I just tried to shave the nozzle tip a millimeter (measured w/ calipers). And it didn't fix it, i think it made it worse. Has anyone had troubles yet with this upgrade using propane? http://www.airsoftpost.com/awss-stainless-...gn-p-31266.html Edited August 28, 2009 by accuracy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MODDAN Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Erm. I had my WE M4 suppressed on a skirmish today but everytime i shot someone is majorly shocked by the noise.. I experienced the exact same thing. I tried using a King Arms suppressor on my WE M16, and the noise increased dramatically. Will try the recommended method of increasing the distance between the inner barrel and the suppressor and see if there's any difference. Do anyone of you know is there a "Copied" Surefire silence on the market, cos i really want to have it on my M4, just like those spec force in reality! SureFire makes suppressors? O.o This will turn my world up-side-down and open doors to new must-have's. Please supply linkage to their most beautiful suppressors. So i received my WE M4 GBB today, it's a V1 so it's shooting waaay hot in the 500/550fps range. Anyway the bolt doesn't lock back when the mag runs out of bb's, the little sliding button on the mag is correct but the bolt just keeps going, and i can lock the bolt back manually. Everything cicles smoothly its just that the bolt never locks back when there's no bb's left. Any pointers ? Like quite a few people I had some trouble with my bolt stop. The problem with mine was that the spring which is supposed to return the bolt lock is too strong, so even though the magazine is empty the spring pushes down on the magazine bolt stop. So cut a few coils of that spring and you should be OK. Try cutting of one at a time and stop before you go overboard. You don't want to end up with a limp bolt catch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 The wiki says this about the hop-up components.... "Take note when reassembling that the hopup ramp (#115) should be positioned so that the thin lip (pictured) is sitting against the adjustment collar (#113)." So correct me if I'm wrong but I think this means that if you turn the adjustment collar downwards when looking at the ejection port (or anti clockwise if looking down the barrel) it will REDUCE the amount of hop applied - correct? Like quite a few people I had some trouble with my bolt stop. The problem with mine was that the spring which is supposed to return the bolt lock is too strong, so even though the magazine is empty the spring pushes down on the magazine bolt stop. So cut a few coils of that spring and you should be OK. Try cutting of one at a time and stop before you go overboard. You don't want to end up with a limp bolt catch. Just did this on mine just now and it works a treat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kowalsky Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) Sorry for the offtopic: Just wanted to thank everyone in this thread: All your posts helped me to decide which M4 i'm going to buy(actually i'm buying an M4 and an M16 ), is good to know that all WE problems can be solved I was in an inner fight between WA (either G&P or INO), KJW (which i tested) or WE, but i see there is more dedication on all WE owners (yeah, might be because all the others are playing instead of repairing, but i'm fine with that ), so i'm going to add myself to this great "WE Community" Again, thanks and keep this great work you are doing P.S: Special thanks to WETTI, for helping everyone in this thread Edited August 28, 2009 by Kowalsky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) I'm playing. Do hate the wobble of my rail and the rust though. I'll hate my hop up when i play outdoors at christmas tough. Edit: one small question. Is there a Noveske X Vltor upper that fits the WE and the PTW? If so does the rail have any wobble? I'm planning either getting a whole Noveske rail upper or just slap on a Noveske rail or LaRue rail? Which one will eliminate the wobble with the least work? And which make? I'm disliking my Chinese MK18 DD rail with it's wobbles and it insanely out of spec. Masada has to wait. Thankyou so much PS: 9" inchers please. Edited August 28, 2009 by alston251 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 I experienced the exact same thing. I tried using a King Arms suppressor on my WE M16, and the noise increased dramatically. Will try the recommended method of increasing the distance between the inner barrel and the suppressor and see if there's any difference. SureFire makes suppressors? O.o This will turn my world up-side-down and open doors to new must-have's. Please supply linkage to their most beautiful suppressors. Like quite a few people I had some trouble with my bolt stop. The problem with mine was that the spring which is supposed to return the bolt lock is too strong, so even though the magazine is empty the spring pushes down on the magazine bolt stop. So cut a few coils of that spring and you should be OK. Try cutting of one at a time and stop before you go overboard. You don't want to end up with a limp bolt catch. Yeah my small King Arms did the same but my Gemtech G5 suppresses the sound REALLY good, can't say for sure but it seems to reduce the sound print by half. Surefire does have a suppressor line, http://www.surefire.com/RifleCarbineSuppressors , but i don't find them really that attractive though. Anyway you're talking about part #78 right ? I might try that but i think my problem is actually the opposite .. the bolt catch is quite limp already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MODDAN Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Yes, I am indeed talking about part No. 78. If the catch is already limp thats odd... remove your spring and have a look if it's of the correct length. If not, you should buy a spare. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Future Noveske/MUR set up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Is it a whole upper with an integrated rail? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
julietcharlie Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Is it a whole upper with an integrated rail? The monolithic upper is the VIS that MUR is only an upper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 If you were using real ammunition, maybe. Air gets less dense the higher it is from sea level and less dense air means less friction against wind, which would mean a faster, more accurate bullet. But this is airsoft, and you're talking a mere 5~6m difference, add to that the fact that the WE hop is a bit wonky to begin with. So no, there will hardly be any notable difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Has anyone tried the VLTOR MUR upper reciever from Dytac? Redwolf claims it fits the WE. http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?prodID=27382 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Best ask ViciousV10s as the picture he posted (previous page) has the PTW upper mounted on a Socom Gear N4 lower. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukvdh Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Question for WETTI: Is the "WE SCAR-L CQC Gas BlowBack Rifle (Dark Earth)" on UNCompany.com a "WETTI" version, or a WE? (With all this version-talk I don't know what to look for....If there are difference: what are they?) Thanks in advance. P.S. I ordered (again) the WE M4 CO2 conversion set, at yet another shop: "sorry, out of stock, can we sell you something else?".... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrooklynBorn Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 They're the same. WETTI is just the long name for WE now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Has anyone tried the VLTOR MUR upper reciever from Dytac? Redwolf claims it fits the WE. http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?prodID=27382 Quoting from a famous philosopher ... do a bit of search on your own please, that has been discussed several times already. Yes it does fit, it will rattle quit a bit which it seems to be largely fixed by using RATech's Magic Pin. Yes, I am indeed talking about part No. 78. If the catch is already limp thats odd... remove your spring and have a look if it's of the correct length. If not, you should buy a spare. Well it seems the spring wasn't the original one that came with gun, i received a v1 but the bolt stop was already changed to the new one, i guess they either tried to fix the problem and failed or the spring that came with it was essentially crappola. I got a substitute and now is working like a charm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 yeah sorry, I saw victories post in the picture thread, and in a hurry, didn't notice he posted here as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 yeah sorry, I saw victories post in the picture thread, and in a hurry, didn't notice he posted here as well. Hen i just had my morning sarcasm on, anyway i am actually interested too ... not in that particular upper but if any upper made for the PTW fits the WE also Quote Link to post Share on other sites
julietcharlie Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 If I remember it right, there was a company before that can convert a PTW into a GBBr it was LA Company i believe. I am not sure if they were related to AFC who designed the WE platform. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) Hey guys incase you haven't read the news. RA-Tech made a adjustable valve for the WE GBB system. But they demonstrated on a scar. So i'm not sure if it would work for the M4 too. But after watching the video a few times and thinking a bit i thought it would be fine. But i'm not entirely sure. Does anyone know if the rod behind the nossle is same length on the scar and the M4? If so i think it would be compatible. Can someone confirm this please. Bless RA-Tech. Edited September 1, 2009 by alston251 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Hey guys incase you haven't read the news. RA-Tech made a adjustable valve for the WE GBB system. But they demonstrated on a scar. So i'm not sure if it would work for the M4 too. But after watching the video a few times and thinking a bit i thought it would be fine. But i'm not entirely sure. Does anyone know if the rod behind the nossle is same length on the scar and the M4? If so i think it would be compatible. Can someone confirm this please. Bless RA-Tech. Well that sure is good news, at least we have many options. I ordered a couple of those uni-directional guide rod's from TS-Custom, they should allow to adjust the power but until i actually install one of them can't say for sure. But i would buy one ffrom RATech if someone tries them on the M4. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Lets hope they don't rip us off first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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