WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

[mnmc10]

okay, so im still having a hard time setting my hop. either it overhops or there is no hop at all. its up to a point that the bbs just dribble out of the barrel when i point the rifle towrds the ground. my theory is that the arm doesnt go up or reset to its off position. so you screw the grub in till you get hop then when it overhops a little and you turn the screw outwards the arm is still pushing down.

 

unlike in the g36 or pdw the hop dial has a slot where the arm goes in so when you turn the dial off the arm goes with it. or in the WA platform there is a spring that pushes the arm to counter the hop dial.

 

the ob hop assembly has very little space for a spring mod. was thinking of making a new arm that can accomodate a tiny spring which pushes the arm to off position.

 

for those who are having problems what do you guys think what causes it?

 

also after a few mags my rifle will purge some gas out the ejection port. when it does that the bb just spits infront of me. i managed to fix it by adding more lube but i refuse to accept that problem since my g36c doesnt do that at all. im a bit ###### of my m4 now and is clueless on how to fix it.

 

i dont think its an issue with gas and bbs i use cause i took out my g36, loaded it with the same gas and bbs and it fired well.

 

oh and btw i already did the mod, i shortened the nozzle a bit and it didnt improved anything.

[1st Commando]

you may find there is an extra oring on the hop arm which is causing it to stick mate

[mnmc10]

you may find there is an extra oring on the hop arm which is causing it to stick mate

 

thanks mate! but i believe i was the first one here to discover that extra oring. i left one oring in it and i also checked the pressure the oring gave to the arm. even compared it to my g36's arm. they have about the same tension. so i think its not the oring the causes the sticking. but still thanks for the suggestion and i badly need a few more suggestions cause my rifle is driving me nuts already.

[1st Commando]

oops sorry mate

[ManMarin3]

are you firing on semi/ full auto and what temperature are you in, the only times i have had similar with my SCAR was when a BB got lodged above the nozzle, although it does sound like the main O-ring drying out thru cooldown and seizing, what lube do you use on it?

[mnmc10]

it was around 27deg C yesterday and yeah the gun purges and spits bbs when the assembly freezes or if it needs lubing. im on semi only with 2 seconds interval per shot, no full autos yet till i figure what causes the hop problem.

[Jimbud]

I just got an open bolt CQBR.

I am lost as to how you remove the return spring from the nozzle and how you would get the nozzle apart in order to replace the valve with a NPAS valve.

Can anybody out there can shed a little light on the subject?

 

Thanks

[kruck]

I'll take some pictures in the daylight tomorrow if you still need them.

 

But in words, there is a pin about halfway down the bolt, push it out from the ridged side - this is what holds in the return spring.

 

The guide on the left of the bolt just lifts out.

 

Unscrew the latch thingy on the top (the flat head screw) and then take out the guide from beneath that, then the loading nozzle will slide out as the guides aren't holding it in any more.

 

Then there is a tiny little pin that holds the two halves of the loading nozzle together, and the other end of the return spring, push that out, it doesn't take much force, then pull the two halves apart.

 

Whole process takes maybe five minutes.

 

Apologies if anything doesn't make sense, sleep deprivation.

[Jimbud]

Thanks!

 

It was that tiny pin in the nozzle that was giving me the problem.

Assumed somthing like that had to be there just could not spot it.

[KaXXeN]

Hello

 

 

 

New here and new to these gbb's Where do people buy the nozzles for we m4 open bolt? been googling like nuts but been unable to find any nozzles except open bolt kits.

[Bamse]

http://www.bbdragon.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/2607

 

bought my open bolt set from CWI. shipped pretty fast and to a very decent price

[KaRcop]

My Open Bolt kit should be arriving tomorrow - very excited! Now every one of my guns will be gas powered and will use VSR-style hopup! :-p

[Corrigan]

What's the reliability of the open bolt version like (if I were to buy one new today)? Are there any obvious upgrades that should be done? What about performance-wise?

Edited August 18, 2011 by Corrigan

[mrk]

Does the current OB version M4's have correct Colt markings on the receiver? And does the M4 OB magazines fit in redi-mag?

[kullwarrior]

Does the current OB version M4's have correct Colt markings on the receiver? And does the M4 OB magazines fit in redi-mag?

WE NEVER EVER EVER EVER HAVE TRADE MARK ON THEIR GUN

 

Those ones you see with real trademark (except EBR) are all AFC Custom

[carabinero]

Hi there, I was having fun with my WE Colt M4 CQB-R Open Bolt but now I'm having some issues

 

Every 20 rounds or so BB's get crushed and the bolt can't seat fully because BB's debris clog the fake bolt locking slots around the chamber. I've never had this issue before with my G39 using the same brand of BB's ( 0.25 Goldenballs ).

 

I think that the cause is how the magazine ( original ) fits in the new OB lower receiver, it has a lot of play back and forth so the magazine tilts a little bit against the chamber not giving an horizontal interface or somehow it gives a non ideal alignment with the chamber's feeding ramp ( my old 4168 had a very tight magazine fit maybe these new OB guns have indeed new molds ). The magazine lips have marks of the feeding ramp hitting it, so this may be a sign. I haven't seen in the forums something like this, if somebody knows anything about it I'll thank your feedback...

[kruck]

I had this problem when I first skirmished it. It turned out it was the recoil buffer detent pin (or whatever its called) had unscrewed and was causing cycling issues, and occasionally a BB jammed as you describe.

 

Otherwise, you might try shimming the magazine so the inner sits a bit higher in the shell (0.5-1mm). I did this by using some card shims underneath between the shell and inner magazine, when they screw into each other in the base (or a washer would do, perhaps). I'd take a picture and show you, but I sold my M4 This helped my feeding issues and improved the reliability of the bolt lock.

 

Hope that helps.

[carabinero]

I had this problem when I first skirmished it. It turned out it was the recoil buffer detent pin (or whatever its called) had unscrewed and was causing cycling issues, and occasionally a BB jammed as you describe.

 

Otherwise, you might try shimming the magazine so the inner sits a bit higher in the shell (0.5-1mm). I did this by using some card shims underneath between the shell and inner magazine, when they screw into each other in the base (or a washer would do, perhaps). I'd take a picture and show you, but I sold my M4 This helped my feeding issues and improved the reliability of the bolt lock.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks mate, I'll try that ASAP

[Corrigan]

Which type of stock (or buffer tube) will fit the WEs? Just an ordinary AEG one?

 

EDIT: I'm a complete gun noob. What I want to do is to fit one of those old style M4 stocks seen on SFWs (http://www.uncompany.com/images/part-mu-m4-stock-4pos-set_big.jpg).

What modification would that entail? Can I buy a random AEG stock and fit it on the original WE tube? Alternatively, can I get a random AEG stock+tube and fit the tube on the WE reciever?

 

Thanks

Edited August 21, 2011 by Corrigan

[Corrigan]

Never mind the above post, I've got that figured out.

 

Sorry for the double post, but I need some urgent help:

On the long rifle (A1), the outer barrel parting just past the front sight, which kind of thread is that? Positive or negative? Thanks.

[L2E]

Last night I trying to adjust my hop in the backyard and something new started happening on my OB HK416. I was able to put the selector in the SAFE position when hammer was down. I remember reading of others having this problem but I can't seem to find the posts explaining the fix. I searched this thread for 'safe' but couldn't find any relevant posts.

 

Any suggestions?

[renegadecow]

It's to do with the hammer contact surface getting worn down. When the hammer is down it pushes against the trigger blocking the selector from turning to "safe". As the hammer gets worn out, the trigger sits higher and higher up with the hammer down until the trigger doesn't get pushed down enough to block the selector anymore. Not a big problem really, but its a sign of the eventual uncontrollable burst fire of the hammer assembly. To fix it you either replace it with a steel hammer/trigger/disconnector set or reinforce the hammer surface by screwing on a steel piece in its place.

Edited August 26, 2011 by renegadecow

[L2E]

renegadecow - thank you very much. I think I will order a new FCG.

[sioux]

Hey guys! New to this GBB "species" and planning to get a WE M4A1 Open-Chamber GBBR

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=WE-GBR-M4A1OB&search=searchItem&rs=open%20chamber&catid=&cat=

 

and play it on CO2. Does anyone own this model and could share some impressions?

 

Can't seem to find too many upgrade parts for it though (as opposed to those built on WA platforms). I'd be especially interested in a steel trigger group (similar to that by Ratech, so to avoid as long as possible issues like the one L2E described above), precision barrel (possibly of about 14.5" - can't find the actual length), and a reliable hop-up chamber/rubber. If anyone could point out some directions... much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Edited August 30, 2011 by sioux

[NonEx]

Just got myself a WE M4 CQBR OB (full markings) and I have one immidiate question. The dust cover won't stay closed when the bolt is in the forward position, I can make it sit in there but as soon as I move the gun, like, just angle it a little bit, it pops open again. The problem does not exist when the bolt is locked back. Google suggested this might be a common problem but I found no solution, also nothing in this thread. One idea would be to file off a slight amount of material on the dust cover pin housing, I think it's slightly too large.

 

Also, I just have to do a shout out to AirsoftGlobal, absolutely incredible. They got the gun to me (Sweden) from HK in one day... ONE DAY! As in, I ordered on the 30th, and I had it on the 31st. Also, they followed my instructions perfectly, and they had marked down the package (unknown to me) so I didn't have to pay import duties. Highly recommended!

 

Also, on another note in regards to the WE M4. Can anyone tell me where I might be able to get PMAG shells, either finished/fitted for WE M4 magazines or new ones that I can modify myself ? Would appreciate places within Europe as I believe USA has an export rule agains full cap magazines.

Edited August 31, 2011 by NonEx