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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Sorry, me again, post above locked for edit. Does anyone have a HQ scan of the exploded view for the WE M4 CQBR OB ? Didnt get a manual with mine and WEs website pic is too small... :-(

 

Got MAGPUL parts coming in and need some referense before i tear this appart.

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Here is a pretty basic exploded diagram of the WE M4, unfortunately a Gen 1 brass tube version, but it should suffice:

basic"]http://wem4guide.wikidot.com/rifle-manual

Great to hear about the import tax, although illegal...

As far as the dust-cover is concerned, I've never experienced that problem with any of my three WE guns. Maybe you should just buy a new dust cover and replace it? It might have been damaged, or be a lemon part.

 

As far as PMAG's are concerned, they do not exist for the WE platform yet, nor have I heard any plans for any PMAG's. You'll have to make your own from scratch if you want them badly. So practice your Google-fu, young grasshopper.

Edited by MODDAN
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Hi peeps - hopefully someone can help me. I've lost track of where everything is with these GBBRs now!!

 

I have a WE M16 Co2 version that I purchased in 2009. Its been sat on top of my wardrobe as good as new since then! I'd like to get hold of a NPAS for it - can anyone suggest the best place nowadays to order from?

 

Would mine be a version 1 or 2 and how can I check?

 

It really has been long enough for me to forget most of what I knew about these!!

 

Many thanks

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They don't have real version numbers, but a CO2 gun wouldn't be V1. Get yourself an open bolt kit first.

Figured out I need the V2 NPAS as its a CO2 gun. Whats the advantage of the open bolt kit? To be honest I'm looking to sell the rifle so not too bothered about spending loads on it - just thought with the NPAS it would be easier to sell.

Edited by TrooperX
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Does anyone here have the RA-Tech Steel Bolt Carrier installed?

I got my custom RA-T WE M4, they didnt install it, I tried (installing nozzle was easy) but when I close the receiver, I can't pull the bolt back using charging handle for some reason. Anyone know the fix for this?

 

I took down the stock, it didn't make a difference

I took down the nozzle, it didn't make a difference

I tried adjusting the height of the buffer retainer, didn't make a difference

Removing the gas key and nozzle did allow the bolt carrier to be cycle

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You know what RA-tech is not that great, they make some good parts and some really *suitcase* parts, If you got a WE OB gun with RAT upgrades installed you will need to replace the RAT Valve Locker or your gun will not work, RAT seems to have a good few of thise in stock and are more then happy to take your money and install them even if it makes then gun work like ######.

 

I have also seen RAT firing pin base with springs so hard the inserting a mag will open the walve and fire a shot.

 

And don't get me started on the RAT barrels for the CB system.

 

My point is only use RAT when you have parts failing, they are replacements not upgrades.

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You know what RA-tech is not that great, they make some good parts and some really *suitcase* parts, If you got a WE OB gun with RAT upgrades installed you will need to replace the RAT Valve Locker or your gun will not work, RAT seems to have a good few of thise in stock and are more then happy to take your money and install them even if it makes then gun work like ######.

 

I have also seen RAT firing pin base with springs so hard the inserting a mag will open the walve and fire a shot.

 

And don't get me started on the RAT barrels for the CB system.

 

My point is only use RAT when you have parts failing, they are replacements not upgrades.

You didnt even answer my question. All you did was bashing RA-Tech. My problem is the bolt carrier, I suspect is the gas key. for the incompatibility. I'll be asking them when their holiday is over.

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Hey all,

 

I've just recently bought WE M4 (a gas, closed bolt version) from AirSplat about a week ago, and I've run into a problem. Unfortunately, the BB's keep jamming. I've searched through this thread and found some helpful posts that have lead me to completely take down the gun, clean the barrel, disassemble, clean and reassemble the hopup assembly, and also adjust the hopup to full tilt. Even after that, BB's still jam, only to finally roll out of the barrel when the gun is lowered. Typically, after cleaning the hopup the gun will fire great for 5 or 6 shots, and then it begins to jam. Sometimes, BB's jam for a shot or two, and then (for example) on the third trigger pull three BB's are fired at the target. I've also noticed that the green gas I'm using seems to be very "wet"; it has a ton of silicone. Could this potentially be part of my problem?

 

This isn't the OB version of the gun, but I'm beginning to think that purchasing a OB conversion kit would help correct the issue, as well increase my accuracy among other things. Do you guys believe this to be correct? Also, if I decided to run CO2 after purchasing the OB kit, do I just need CO2 mags to do so, or are other parts required? Thanks for any help!

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The OB kit replaces pretty much every moving part plus everything that contacts the BBs. Not saying you won't have any issues, but if you do they will be new issues.

 

To answer for any potential people asking what issue does Open-Chamber have

 

WE AWSS M4 known issue

->Ineffective Hop-up

->Feeding issue

->Firing Mechanism breaking (firing pin assembly, valve locker, hammer, trigger, disconnector)

 

WE M4 Open Chamber

->Nozzle head breaking (When bb misfeed)

->Bolt Carrier wearing out (from using steel trigger or enhanced recoil kit)

->Firing mechanism breaking

 

I would say WE Open Chamber is definitely better than AWSS, however the issue of nozzle breaking is the biggest concern, currently there's no fix than avoid using forward assist when you can't verify if the bb is misfeeding.

 

For those people really want to get RA-Tech Trigger set...

DON'T, unless you are getting the steel carrier as well.

I cycle my M4 about 150 times totday, the crater from the steel hammer is already approximately 1-1.25mm deep. There are reports of steel hammer hitting pot metal carrier to the point of making a hole through to the blow back unit.

 

If you are installing the RA-Tech M4 Steel Carrier, at bare minimum you need to mod the bolt catch and bolt carrier to make it work.

1) The bolt catch point where it engage the carrier needs to be shave down approximately 0.5mm from the top.

IMAG0026.jpg

2) The part of bolt carrier where the cocking of the hammer takes place needs to be further rounded to have a smoother cycling (otherwise it's near impossible to cycle the gun when the hammer is dropped)

IMAG0028.jpg

 

After 10k rounds of RA-Tech Trigger Set (Hammer, Disconnector, Trigger, Firing Pin Assembly, and Valve Lock) in WE G39E using stock bolt carrier

-The Firing pin is severely sanded to the point it doesn't completely open the magazine valve when it strikes. This result in "stuttering" full auto where the cycling has a irregular time between shots. The assembly end overall is fine but it has dent where the hammer strikes it.

-The Hammer is dented (less than 1/4mm) by the firing pin assembly, currently beside looks it doesn't do anything.

-The Valve lock has the sharp end sanded off from the firing pin, but it does not affect its functionality.

-Beside from the part where your finger contacts the trigger, it looks brand new with no damage,

-disconnector loss a bit of parkerizing where it contacts the hammer, but otherwise new

 

Final thoughts, The Carrier is showing lots of wear from using steel firing mechanism. Aside from the Firing pin using steel that is too soft I consider it a good investment if you are getting the steel carrier as well.

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Thanks for the help jkpics, kojak, NonEx, and kullwarrior, I've got an OB kit on order now.

 

 

Regarding RA-Tech stuff, it seems there's a couple different thoughts. Is the general consensus that I should stick with the OEM parts for now, and only "upgrade" when the factory parts fail? I've only ran about 300 BB's through the gun, and the internals seem to be okay so far (there's some very slight visible wear, but nothing's pitted, worn or dented yet). The OB kit's trigger assembly has (some) steel parts, right? Does anyone know at what point the sears, hammer, firing pin and valve locker in that assembly begin to fail?

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After reading all the comments and info, I would put it like this;

 

Keep your original internal parts for as long as possible. When they wear out, look for replacement parts for the original parts, ie. from AirsoftBuddy. If you cannot get original parts replacements, look into getting the "upgrade" / RA-Tech parts.

 

It's a damn shame, but it makes sense, pot metal in some spots vs. steel in some places = somethings gotta give...

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To test for worn out trigger parts, first do a function test,

 

Is the safety working?

Is semi working?

Is FA working?

Is the reset nice and crisp?

 

Then there is the visuel inspection, break open the gun, and press the hammer down while looking at the firing pin, the hammer will reset and with a little more pushing down the fireing pin will pop back in, when the parts gets worn the distence betwin the reset and the fireing pin pop will be further and further a way from each other, until running the charging handel will rest the hammer but not the firing pin.

 

That covers wear, if stuff breaks normaly you just get FA on semi.

 

RAT makes some ###### but there trigger set is great, the reset with steel parts is nice.

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