intinerious Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 For my friend's G39, I had to file an extra set of notches for a Prometheus VSR TB to fit. I'm pretty sure WE OB barrels have two pairs of locking notches on them. Out of curiosity, why didn't you file down the notches on the hop up itself? By filing notches on the barrel itself would lead to a bigger risk of damaging the consistency of the barrel right? Or would it no affect it at all? Given that the notches are to make sure the barrel is aligned correctly; 1 less set of notches isn't really going to make much of a difference in my mind as long as you screw down tight the two hop up chamber halves. If they don't screw down tight (i.e. with thicker buckings like the nineball) then some threadlock might do the trick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 the extra notches mates to the hop assembly and has nothing to do with the hop rubber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 the extra notches mates to the hop assembly and has nothing to do with the hop rubber. What? Are you replying to my post above? I mean with thicker buckings generally the hop up halves don't seal well compared to thinner buckings; threadlocking down the screw that holds the halves together ensures the hop up halves mesh together well; thus leading to the notches inside the hop up chamber holding the barrel in place securely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Break100 Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 just install an open bolt WE M16 VN Mag into my m4 close bolt. Need a slight modification to fit in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Apparently my gun can fire full auto on semi. The range of the full auto shots on semi are just as good indicate the disconnector did properly engage the hammer before hammer drop again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waffelcopter Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Does anyone know if there are any body kits out there other than the very expensive Prime kit, a JP rifles one in particular would be awesome? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvlyssup Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Does anyone know if there are any body kits out there other than the very expensive Prime kit, a JP rifles one in particular would be awesome? The only one I have seen that is actually in-stock at 1/2 price of a Prime body:http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=570_574&products_id=14493 If you just want trades on your rifle, get a lower from Airsoft Buddy. Its like $50.00 or $60.00 shipped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
huntER_HuntED Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi guys, just wanted to knows is this a RA-Tech NPAS installed here? Brought a WE M4 CQBR (CB) today and didnt get much extra info! I can take more pics if required! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Doesn't look like it. (Cant see the adjustment part). Long time since Ive seen a closed bolt tbh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grindstone Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 In the 2nd pic, there's threading on the end of the valve. Could that indicate it's an NPAS? I guess a more practical way to figure it out would be to stick a hex wrench down the nozzle and see if it turns anything...? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Pic 2 looks an awful lot lite an NPAS but I don't have any experience with the closed bolt plattform... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
huntER_HuntED Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Cheers guys. @grindstone there defiantly is threading and I can defiantly move it up/down. I've ordered a NPAS tool anyway so we'll see if that does anything! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 (edited) hey guys I too am the owner of we m4, after 1000 or so rounds- it seems to still operate fine, However the only part that i always have the problem with is The BOLT STOP. it seems to be taking alot of damages from the stock bolts to the pont its splitting up!!! (slightly). Im so scared of how worse it would get once i get the RAtech Steel carrier is there any mod to decrease the impact between the catch and the carrier? (besides not using the function ofcourse ) and in your experience, what other major parts would break first? (im talking abt nozzle/trigger group parts) Im having a milsim events in the few weeks so i wanna stock up on spares Edited January 7, 2012 by Theoutlier Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 hey guys I too am the owner of we m4, after 1000 or so rounds- it seems to still operate fine, However the only part that i always have the problem with is The BOLT STOP. it seems to be taking alot of damages from the stock bolts to the pont its splitting up!!! (slightly). Im so scared of how worse it would get once i get the RAtech Steel carrier is there any mod to decrease the impact between the catch and the carrier? (besides not using the function ofcourse ) and in your experience, what other major parts would break first? (im talking abt nozzle/trigger group parts) Im having a milsim events in the few weeks so i wanna stock up on spares Are you running AWSS brass tube? Bolt Catch wearing out is of AWSS issue, I run Open-Chamber w/ RA-Tech steel bolt no problem. If anything I suggest you buy AEG shim, and put 0.1-0.15mm between the bolt catch. That is probably the main problem Open-Chamber the #1 replacement part you should have is front nozzle section. But for practical change in field, get the whole nozzle assembly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Are you running AWSS brass tube? Bolt Catch wearing out is of AWSS issue, I run Open-Chamber w/ RA-Tech steel bolt no problem. If anything I suggest you buy AEG shim, and put 0.1-0.15mm between the bolt catch. That is probably the main problem Open-Chamber the #1 replacement part you should have is front nozzle section. But for practical change in field, get the whole nozzle assembly. thx kullwarrior for your advice, however, after the close inspection at the boltcatch area, it seems like the bolt carrier is only engaging it at the top bit No wonder why its worned out so much, since so much force is applied on the small area i might try to file the tab that contacts the upper receiver so the catch could go up further btw, how do you find the RA-steel bolt? would it work with stock trigger groups? if not then may i ask what upgrades are you running on? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 after the close inspection at the boltcatch area, it seems like the bolt carrier is only engaging it at the top bit No wonder why its worned out so much, since so much force is applied on the small area File out until its flatten, shim the bolt catch, that is the fix. I had the issue. If you read back (~10-20 pages) the guy's solution to my issue was shim the bolt catch to fix -and it is. RA-Tech Steel Carrier...love it, it's nice both looks and function. It keeps the gun into realistic rof (~750-950) If you want to run steel carrier, run steel trigger, hammer, disconnector, valve locker, and firing pin (auto sear is steel already) I run a RA-Tech Custom M4A1 and RA-Tech Custom M16A3 with steel carrier on each rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvlyssup Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 (edited) RA-Tech Steel Carrier...love it, it's nice both looks and function. It keeps the gun into realistic rof (~750-950) If you want to run steel carrier, run steel trigger, hammer, disconnector, valve locker, and firing pin (auto sear is steel already) I run a RA-Tech Custom M4A1 and RA-Tech Custom M16A3 with steel carrier on each rifle. +1When I convereted my v2 carbine to OB, the bolt catch never worked unless I engaged it manually. I've since also upgraded to a RAT BC & CWI steel trigger group. From pot metal to steel, its night & day. Steel parts sure breaths new life to my old reliable carbine! Edited January 9, 2012 by rvlyssup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Does the bolt catch now work though? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Yep, it works fine now. i filed out some portions of the catch, it nows contact the bolt good. though i have yet to purchase shims, but im pretty sure it would work okay for now. I have also found a mod that works for me so basically if anyone have a problem like "bolt doesnt lock-back on last round " or "bolt locks back when there are still rounds in the mag" then i can almost gurantee its the problem with the spring This can be fixed by stretching the catch spring and/or pushing it down till it stretches or gets thinner. becareful not to over do it though, or you will break the spring. alternatively you can cut the coils or replace the spring, but i find this easier to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
huntER_HuntED Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Propane came today so I had a go firing mine.................I'm never owning an AEG again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Welcome to the club. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightPenguin Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Is the internals completely the same between WE m4 and hk416 open chamber ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Last I knew they are identical. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M.B.Mathiasen Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Just converted my CB HK416 to OB today, and I must say that it required a hell of alot of modding ot get to work properly! Am I the only one who have experienced that the "barrel hole"(in lack of better terms) in the upper reciever, was drilled out off center?! So that the barrel was pointing to the side? Along with that, the pin holes in the upper also had a too small diameter?! At least the old CB triggerset only required 1mm sanded of the auto sear, to be compatible with the new BCG -But when I got it running.. Damn! It sure is a thrill to shoot Now I just need to fix the leak and convert my last 2 CO2 mags.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Sorry to hear that but it kind of sums up what I have picked up regarding CB -> OB conversions. Seems to be more trouble than it's worth. I would recommend a new factory stock OB for anyone who has that oppertunety. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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