Grindstone Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Any hardware store should be able to help you out in metal polishing and rust prevention/restoration with products and advice. As Ollie said, keep the WD40 away from the seals. Anything outside of nonpetroleum-based silicone oil should be kept away from rubber and plastic. I ruined my first pistol with some automotive silicone oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thanks Grindstone. As to hardware stores here giving advice, I really won't trust them. They do not even know what a threadlock is I'll stick with yours and ollie_ty's advise. Thanks guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) Double post... My bad... Using mobile Edited October 11, 2011 by neilgoth1974 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Hey guys I need some advice on how to outfit my WE M4 CQBR. I went from the pic above to my config B set-up, which turned out like this; I kinda like the idea of the looks, but all the individual parts make it look "frankenstiened". Don't like the delta ring or the gas block, they are just there because of pure fuctnion and really look like *suitcase* TBH. So I am thinking about getting some MadBull Daniel Defense Omega X rails (7" or 9") and some ACTION EOD outer barrels (9" or 11") (btw does anyone know if the MB DD OX are a drop in fit ?); http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-7-inch-omega-x-rail-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-omega-x-rail-9-inch-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-9inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-11inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html Problem is I can't decide which combo to go with, here is an MS Paint mock-up (yeh I know it's not the Omega X rail in the pics); I am leaning towards the 7/11 setup or maybe 9/11... I still want it "CQB-ish", though, and the 9" rail might get too bulky... Comments and/or advice appreciated! Edited October 17, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 I actually like your "B" setup, it looks less cookie cutter than other M4s. But I also like the 7/11 and 9/11 configurations. Do you need a lot of rail space? Do you like to have a more forward grip on the gun? If you do, run the 9". If not, run the 7", as it's cheaper and lighter. Not by much, but every bit adds up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hmm, well. As of now I only use what is in the config B. AFG2, RSA and MBUS front. The rest I cover with XTM pannels. The only other thing I _might_ want is a PEQ (and)/or a light/laser... Hmmm... I guess I need 12" to get ALL of that on there Actually, no, don'¨t think I would add anything other than what is on it allready. The more I look at it the more I like the 7/11 config, and it just sounds right, guess that's why there are stores namned like that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 The more I look at it the more I like the 7/11 config, and it just sounds right, guess that's why there are stores namned like that Ha, I thought that too. The '9/11 configuration' just sounds, well, yeah. Anyway, how do you like Magpul's RSA? Does it snag on any of your gear? Is it fairly sturdy? I've been looking at one of those so I can ditch the factory front sling mount - it's developing a bit of play since I crank down on it with a VTAC sling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Infantry Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 (edited) Here's mine: The stock, pistol grip, ejection port cover, magazine catch, MATech BUIS, Aimpoint CCO mount, Knight's RAS, leaf sight, and PAQ-4 are all real rifle components. This is my one and only primary and has never let me down. Shoots hot at 530ish FPS with a .20g. Shoots around 3 Joules with a .28g. All of the internals are stock Gen 3 AWSS, so I'm not sure why mine shoots so hot compared to most others. From what I've seen most chrono in the mid- to low-400s. Anyone else have a super powered AWSS? PS: The 203 is a G&P Edited October 18, 2011 by Infantry 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
liquidflorian Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Hello Gentlemen... I'm sure this has been asked and answered; but is the lower receiver compatible with real steel buffer tubes? I want to change my M16 stock to a adjustable stock... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Infantry Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Hello Gentlemen... I'm sure this has been asked and answered; but is the lower receiver compatible with real steel buffer tubes? I want to change my M16 stock to a adjustable stock... Yeah, the mil-spec ones fit in just fine. On another note, I had a WOC before the WE. I can't help but notice that between the trigger group and bolt catch of the WOC/WA/Magna style and everything else on the WE, you'd be just shy of a bolt carrier group and barrel to have a functioning weapon. Can't really blame the ATF. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I haven't actually played with the RSA yet but first impression is good. Doubt it will budge, recommended if you need an alternative. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grindstone Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Here's mine: The stock, pistol grip, ejection port cover, magazine catch, MATech BUIS, Aimpoint CCO mount, Knight's RAS, leaf sight, and PAQ-4 are all real rifle components. This is my one and only primary and has never let me down. Shoots hot at 530ish FPS with a .20g. Shoots around 3 Joules with a .28g. All of the internals are stock Gen 3 AWSS, so I'm not sure why mine shoots so hot compared to most others. From what I've seen most chrono in the mid- to low-400s. Anyone else have a super powered AWSS? PS: The 203 is a G&P I'm really digging your carbine. I was mentally going back and forth between the drop in KAC RIS and a 10" free float rail for either an early Astan carbine or Recon rifle set up, respectively. I thought I had settled on the Recon, but your pic just make me rethink that. Thanks a lot I'm pretty sure that most AWSS' are 500+ stock, but there were valves released that you could use to reduce it to sub-400. Hey guys I need some advice on how to outfit my WE M4 CQBR. I went from the pic above to my config B set-up, which turned out like this; I kinda like the idea of the looks, but all the individual parts make it look "frankenstiened". Don't like the delta ring or the gas block, they are just there because of pure fuctnion and really look like *suitcase* TBH. So I am thinking about getting some MadBull Daniel Defense Omega X rails (7" or 9") and some ACTION EOD outer barrels (9" or 11") (btw does anyone know if the MB DD OX are a drop in fit ?); http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-7-inch-omega-x-rail-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-omega-x-rail-9-inch-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-9inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-11inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html Problem is I can't decide which combo to go with, here is an MS Paint mock-up (yeh I know it's not the Omega X rail in the pics); I am leaning towards the 7/11 setup or maybe 9/11... I still want it "CQB-ish", though, and the 9" rail might get too bulky... Comments and/or advice appreciated! I think the 9" set up would be better for you with the AFG. I know it's different for everyone, but I found the AFG to be very awkward when it's really close to the receiver. Also, I doubt a 9" would be that much more cumbersome than a 7". Edited October 19, 2011 by Grindstone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Well, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday while target shooting. I noticed that the gun suddenly lacked power and sounded different, so I immediately stopped firing and saw this: It appears that the nozzle within the bolt carrier seats into the hopup okay, but for some reason, it's not seating fully inside the bolt carrier. When I dropped the mag and locked the bolt to the rear, I saw this: I pushed the nozzle back as far as it would go into the bolt carrier by hand, and it stops here: It DOES NOT go back any further. So, since the bolt can't go all the way forward, I can't split the gun to remove the damn bolt. Popping the rear pin only gets me this far: After removing the stock, buffer tube, spring, etc, you can see how far back the bolt really is: I tried popping the front pin, and it definitely helped, but I still can't completely split the gun to get the bolt out. The thing that's stopping me is the part for the rear pin on the upper receiver and the trigger box; they hit one another: Anyone have any ideas/thoughts/miracles on how I can just split the god damn gun to get the *fruitcage* bolt out? I've attempted to seat the nozzle in the carrier more, but it's at such a strange angle i can't really beat on it (nozzle first). I don't really want to beat the bolt *albatross* end first, because I'd like to not *fruitcage* up the hopup. However, I may have to anyway, as I don't know where to get another bolt/nozzle assembly short of buying an OB kit. Again. Anyway, enough rambling. Has this happened to anyone else, by chance? Please tell me I'm not the only one. That'd just be embarrassing. Edited October 19, 2011 by ODA15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hrmm... quick thought, if without the buffer tube you pull the charging handle, should the bolt not exit thru the rear then ? :S How about trying to get it forward with the forward assist button ? What about removing the fron secion, not sure if the nozzle and or bolt can go out that way but might be worth a look, unlikely though. THats all i have for now :S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hrmm... quick thought, if without the buffer tube you pull the charging handle, should the bolt not exit thru the rear then ? :S How about trying to get it forward with the forward assist button ? What about removing the fron secion, not sure if the nozzle and or bolt can go out that way but might be worth a look, unlikely though. THats all i have for now :S Well, the bolt carrier cannot exit through the rear if the upper receiver isn't separated from the lower receiver because there's that goofy looking bit on top of the bolt carrier. That bit (on a real M16/M4/AR15) is what, for lack of a better term, is "hit" by the gas from the gas tube to move the bolt carrier to the rear, in addition to running in that channel of the charging handle. In any case, that bit hits the loop of the lower receiver. Likewise, I don't think it'll exit through the front for that reason either. And the forward assist never did anything on my M4 anyway. BUT, I could, however, try to remove the inner barrel and see if that gives me enough room to move the bolt forward a bit. Thanks for the idea! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slu Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 I can't believe it's been almost 3 years since the start of this thread, before the release of the V1. Time does fly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Infantry Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Wow, that's the BB gun version of a bolt over ride. Put the two receiver halves together and pop the pins back in. Since it's a BB gun bolt carrier, I wouldn't take a hammer straight to the bolt carrier, so try cutting a piece of dowel and hammering it forward. If theres a round wedged to the side of the bolt, above the bolt, above the bolt carrier, etc, get a knife, leatherman, or whatever to pry/cut/destroy/remove the obstruction by force. Then proceed to drive the BCG forward so the bolt's back in the chamber. That way you'll be able to separate the lower from the upper receiver. If you cant hammer the bolt carrier forward enough for it to clear the rear of the lower receiver, you're going to have to fight it. Get a very large flat head screwdriver to help provide leverage in prying the receivers apart. I suggest sitting down on the floor and putting your foot on the front sight post, and using one hand to grab it by the pistol grip while you straighten your body out to pull the receiver halves apart, all while *fruitcage* around with it with the screwdriver or leatherman or whatever. Just be glad you don't have a live round in there, I've had the wonderful experience of having that happen before. Not fun! If you still can't g>t it let me know, I've cured several very horrible bolt over rides on real M4s at work before, and an airsoft gun isn't as tough as a real one so it'll be an easier fix, though I can't guarantee you won't break the plastic bolt on the airsoft gun if you have to force it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) I got that *fruitcage* out! Thanks NonEx and Infantry. I popped the pins back in, removed the outer barrel and then the inner barrel, and then whacked the bolt carrier with a hammer and punch. That moved it forward a bit into the chamber, and then I could separate the receivers and pull the bolt carrier back out. NonEx, Infantry, if I could kiss you guys, I would. Not that you guy's would like that, but, you know. Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it. There wasn't anything in the upper or lower receiver that shouldn't have been there, so I think my nozzle just up and died. :shrug: Edited October 20, 2011 by ODA15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Infantry Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 NonEx, Infantry, if I could kiss you guys, I would. Not that you guy's would like that, but, you know. Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it. Hey man, nothing is gay in the field. Glad you got it working Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Well, I took apart my bolt carrier group today and found out why it wouldn't seat completely in the chamber, lacked power and just generally didn't work right. You know that spring in the nozzle? The one that links it to the bolt carrier? Well, it snapped and coiled up behind the nozzle, not allowing it to completely seat inside the bolt carrier, which subsequently didn't allow the entire bolt carrier assembly to seat correctly, which then meant I couldn't split the upper/lower receivers, etc. I'd take apart the nozzle assembly as well, but I don't have a punch small enough to knock the pin out. It's incredibly small. I looked around a bit and found a new nozzle assembly at BB Dragon (thanks for the idea Grindstone), so the gun should be up and running once they come in. Anyway, I just figured I'd share this in case it happens to someone else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grindstone Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 I use small Allen wrenches to punch out small pins. I can't imagine a pin being smaller than 0.9mm (smallest wrench I have). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 I usually just use a small jewellers screw driver, it's usually small enough to get those suckers out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Wow, that's the BB gun version of a bolt over ride. Put the two receiver halves together and pop the pins back in. Since it's a BB gun bolt carrier, I wouldn't take a hammer straight to the bolt carrier, so try cutting a piece of dowel and hammering it forward. If theres a round wedged to the side of the bolt, above the bolt, above the bolt carrier, etc, get a knife, leatherman, or whatever to pry/cut/destroy/remove the obstruction by force. Then proceed to drive the BCG forward so the bolt's back in the chamber. That way you'll be able to separate the lower from the upper receiver. If you cant hammer the bolt carrier forward enough for it to clear the rear of the lower receiver, you're going to have to fight it. Get a very large flat head screwdriver to help provide leverage in prying the receivers apart. I suggest sitting down on the floor and putting your foot on the front sight post, and using one hand to grab it by the pistol grip while you straighten your body out to pull the receiver halves apart, all while *fruitcage* around with it with the screwdriver or leatherman or whatever. Just be glad you don't have a live round in there, I've had the wonderful experience of having that happen before. Not fun! If you still can't g>t it let me know, I've cured several very horrible bolt over rides on real M4s at work before, and an airsoft gun isn't as tough as a real one so it'll be an easier fix, though I can't guarantee you won't break the plastic bolt on the airsoft gun if you have to force it. yeah don't do any of that to you airsoft gun, you will break something, I have seen this a few times when ppl change out the buffer tube and forget the plastic spacer at the bottom, or with RA-Tech buffer "upgrades" if you mess around with any of that stuff test that *suitcase* with just the lower and the bolt, push the bolt into the buffer tube and make sure the notch on the bolt and the bolt release don't go to fare past each other, a 5-8mm gab is perfect, more is asking for trouble. What happons is that the bolt goes past the hammer and the hammer pops up and locks the bolt, you will need to pop the pins and make a gab, then push the hammer down while pulling the bolt back at some point the the bolt will go forward. If the bolt locks almost all the way forward and won't go the last mm, you have ###### in the slots around the hopup unit most of the time it is a smashed BB, just clean it, if you can't open the gun you have to take the barrel off and get the hopup unit out, also much easyer to clean that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 (edited) A bit late but for future reference. If you carefully stick a screwdriver in there and push down the hammer, you can wiggle out the carrier and push it forward. I've done this a couple of times when people removed the buffer/spring/spacer to clean things out or change the buffer tube and then forget to put the spacer back in. Pretty easy if your patient enough jkpics beat me to it .... :| Edited November 3, 2011 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Jkpics, Danielsilva, thanks for the suggestions. I'll definitely keep those in mind if I have a similar malfunction again. Fortunately it was just a failed nozzle return spring that wouldn't let the bolt fully seat inside the bolt carrier. I picked up two spare nozzles and the gun is up and running. By the way, if anyone has upper and lower receiver play, a modified AccuWedge will solve the problem. The AccuWedge is made for real guns, but the AR15 version fits with a slight modification. Out of the box it sits too high inside the lower receiver (you won't be able to close the receivers), so shave most of the bottom portion off. Then you can easily close the receivers and reinsert the pin. My upper and lower had started to wobble a bit, but now they fit pretty tightly. No play whatsoever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.