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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Well the question is, would you want another Part 42 IF its gonna break again?

 

$19 shipping on top of the rifle + mags is nothing really because I live in NZ and shipping to here can cost between $20-40 USD. The question is whether I have to fuss around with it again when it breaks.

 

And yeah mine has broken.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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So my part 37 is gone, I guess I tightened it too much and it shredded.

 

That being said I can NOT get the nozzle to sit in line with the bolt carrier at all, how the HELL do you get it lined up right!

 

No matter what I do it leans to the right if I'm looking at it head on. It leans even more when I tighten it, its quite upsetting.

 

EDIT: Tried the new valve with it centered as well as I could. It still doesnt work right, the blowback is erratic and the gun starts throwing extra gas out the ejection port and barrel after a few shots. I think this is it for me guys, this was my last hope for airsoft. I think I'm finally done with this sport. After being burned by escort and sniper x and now this 700 dollars wirth of paperweight in my living room...yeah, im done.

 

Anyone want to buy a WE M4 with 6 mags, an extra bolt, a bearing roller and a bunch of orings?

 

 

 

Wraith and other guys having trouble with alignment of the nozzle in the carrier.

 

We have the Wiki Post up now.

 

Advanced maintenance - Bolt Carrier - #36/#122

 

There are tons of great pics there (you have to click to open - Im working on thumbnail previews as I get time)

 

But click each pic to open them.

 

Its a step by step walk through.

 

It took me quite a while to get all these pics done for you, but I as happy to do it. Hope it helps. ;)

 

 

 

 

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Thanks otto for the pics. I came up with a idea of my own on the part #37( o-ring). I replaced that with the butt end of a AEG cylinder head. The rubber butt is flat and makes it pretty centered when you put it back together. The thing is could you explain to me how you broke down the valve assembly to get to the valve head......what tool did you use? I have a extremely small set of needle nose pliers but they are to big to fit in the little are on the bottom piece of the valve.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHsPybu91Vc

 

Thats how messed u pmy gun is. thats on a FULL thing of gas

 

Ditch the green gas junk. It's over lubing the gun. Use plain jane propane with an adapter and just put a few drops of RC shock oil (silicon oil) in the adapter every 4-5 mags. All that oil is causing multiple problems.

 

Edit:

And your loading nozzle is slightly off center.

Edited by 4boost
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That is with propane, I sent one mag of that lube ###### in there. I'll clean it out and see what happens.

 

No way that is with plain propane. There is no oil in propane, especially not that much. Unless you filled the top of the bottle with oil and then screwed the adapter on. That is the only way I can see you getting that much oil in the gun. It looks like you dunked it in a tub of oil.

 

I use Coleman propane with an adapter and have never had that much oil, ever, on any of my guns.

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It will take you many fills/purges of each mag to get rid of that oily mess.

 

There is SO much silicone in canned gas these days, it isnt funny.

 

When the CO2 mags happen, there will be no silicone in the gas mixture. There seems to be too much emphasis on silicone in the gas, theres no need for all that. A couple drops here or there in the propane tank when you think of it.

 

As for the video above,.....trying to fire this gun immediately after filling a mag, is a no-no.

 

Like GBB pistols you need to warm the mags. Even more so here because of the increased flow (and increased cool down)

 

I have played with the gun in the field twice already - I gassed all my my mags the night before (before going to bed).

 

I topped each of them off in the morning with a quick "stab" of propane.

 

Carrying them in my web gear pockets against my chest kept them warm as well.

 

Some guys go so far as to put portable "hand warmers" in each magazine pouch.

 

It is critical to get the mags warm first if you want the rifle to fire evenly and with max power.

 

Even more critical when the temps are undr 70 degrees F.

 

CO2 mag will eliminate much of this step.

Edited by rottenotto
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William still refuses to answer my e-mails. I've sent about 10 e-mails this last month. All I want is for him to contact the hong kong post but it seems he just ignores me.

My WE M4 was lost on the way from hong kong to sweden and the sender is the one who have to report the package lost according to both the swedish and the hong kong post. Without his help I've lost my 430USD and there is nothing I can do.

I don't understand why he won't help me.

Does any one have an idea of what I can do?

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William still refuses to answer my e-mails. I've sent about 10 e-mails this last month. All I want is for him to contact the hong kong post but it seems he just ignores me.

My WE M4 was lost on the way from hong kong to sweden and the sender is the one who have to report the package lost according to both the swedish and the hong kong post. Without his help I've lost my 430USD and there is nothing I can do.

I don't understand why he won't help me.

Does any one have an idea of what I can do?

 

Open a paypal dispute.

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Just wanted to report that Echo 1 free float RIS with LaRue barrel nut fit (stiff to tighten, but did fit without causing any other issues) on the one I bought to review. I will be trying a CA SPR fiber quad kit next. I've been following this thread, and have a few ideas of my own to improve longevity. If they work, I'll post up. Also, I've been speaking to EdGI and bnoji about custom parts, and they seem to think that a steel charging handle is probably feasible. After I finish taking pics and such, I'm going to send my charging handle in and let them get measurements. Good news for those of us in the US who don't have power tools to modify real charging handles.

 

I may also see if I can get a tool steel part 59 as well, if that looks like it will be a big problem.

 

As part of the review, I'll be going through the potential problems reported and the fixes. Chances are I'll take my own pics, but credit will be given where due for the many authors of the various fixes, primarily rottenotto.

 

One further thought on part #122. Aside from sanding it down, it sounds like there's a lot of impact. Would it be possible to put a thin rubber spacer on the part that it impacts to function as an impact dampener? That would be a really easy mod, and could potentially lengthen longevity as well.

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Just wanted to report that Echo 1 free float RIS with LaRue barrel nut fit (stiff to tighten, but did fit without causing any other issues) on the one I bought to review. I will be trying a CA SPR fiber quad kit next. I've been following this thread, and have a few ideas of my own to improve longevity. If they work, I'll post up. Also, I've been speaking to EdGI and bnoji about custom parts, and they seem to think that a steel charging handle is probably feasible. After I finish taking pics and such, I'm going to send my charging handle in and let them get measurements. Good news for those of us in the US who don't have power tools to modify real charging handles.

 

I may also see if I can get a tool steel part 59 as well, if that looks like it will be a big problem.

 

As part of the review, I'll be going through the potential problems reported and the fixes. Chances are I'll take my own pics, but credit will be given where due for the many authors of the various fixes, primarily rottenotto.

 

One further thought on part #122. Aside from sanding it down, it sounds like there's a lot of impact. Would it be possible to put a thin rubber spacer on the part that it impacts to function as an impact dampener? That would be a really easy mod, and could potentially lengthen longevity as well.

 

 

Any parts you can mass produce, the better. Would be greatly appreciated by all owners ; )

 

The impact has nothing to do with #122 afterall. The only thing this washer can possibly collide with is the opening of the brass cylinder if it isnt aligned correctly.

 

(I have pics posted of my #122 after thousands of rounds - it is pristine, like new. That is after properly aligning the nozzle and locktiting down the end bolt.)

 

The complete impact (you hear & feel) is the front of the bolt carrier smashing into the upper receiver - on the sides of the inner barrel/hopup. Just look inside.

 

Now that my gun has thousands of rounds through it, the inner receiver finish is worn away to shiny metal where the front of the bolt carrier contacts.

 

I wouldn't try to decrease this myself, as it adds to the realism. My gun sounds great, especially when its running good (nice staccato "clacks").

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Okay, more questions. I'm having a devil of time polishing that brass part in the upper receiver to protect my #122. Did you remove it from the upper to polish it, and if so, how do I take it down? It's not quite as apparent as I'd hoped.

 

-edit- Okay, never mind, I'm an idiot. For those who are also idiots, it pulls out the front of the receiver once you remove the barrel nut and barrel. No sweat. Also, instead of using water to wet my fine grit sandpaper, I'm using blade oil. Gives it a much nicer polish.

 

Also, I removed part #59 to inspect it (may see about getting a tool steel replacement for that as well), and the firing pin and spring popped out. The spring has a little plastic cylinder inside it, presumably as a guide. That flew out, hit me in the face (to add insult to injury), and vanished. The gun works without it, but that's something to be warned about.

 

Having done some more inspection, I'm hearing a loud clack when I fire each time, which I presume is the bolt carrier slamming forward. I'm thinking a sorbothane or rubber o-ring might help cushion the impact, but I'm not sure if it needs to travel all the way forward or not. I'm going to be investigating that.

Edited by crimsonfalcon07
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Hey guys been trying to keep on track with the all info in this thread but it's too much to keep track of it all.

 

I am a US retailer that sells this rifle and I am working with James Chan from the WE Factory on getting some parts support here in the USA right away. I know they have plans in the future to have 100% parts availability in the USA from a distributor.

 

What I would like to know is what part #'s specifically are having the most common failures or you would like to see stocked. Not sure if I could supply every one of them but most importantly the ones that commonly seem to be the issue.

 

While Airsoft Buddy does an awesome job, I like you don't want to see people keep having to pay $19.00 for a 10.00 part. It's not their fault that international shipping is so expensive.

 

(now for self-fish plug) I will be one of the first retailers to be receiving the black and tan SCAR as well as the MP5 SD's that are slated to be produced and any other rifle for that matter. While the website needs allot more upgrading it works still in it's ugly state.

 

www.airsoftammosupply.com

Edited by rfisherjr
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