A&K SVD PICT'O'RAMA + first look

[Horsem4n]

that sucks. did you check the box?

 

at least theres a grub screw there.

[lance201]

I've found a real wood kit that should fit the A&K!

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/25525721..._accessory.html

 

But unfortunately I think it's a wholesale. Maby RSOV or and gunnerairsoft get it later on

 

its about 54 US Dollar per piece if you buy 12! additional 40 $ shipping for all 12 with TNT.

 

Lance

[Kamigawa]

I did check the box. I even double-checked it :/

What grub screw? as far as I know the handguards are only kept in place by the brackets (or whatever they are called), and the retainer pin keeps the front bracket in place.

[Hybriden]

Do the Classic army midcap fit in this gun?

[Jumprefusal]

No, I believe they established no AEG SVD mags fit.

[Mikhailthejackal]

Got mine today, absoloutly love it!

but has anyone got this scope? http://www.ebairsoft.com/rifle-scope-chinese-p-1100.html i assume its the one that someone said a couple of pages back, but is it worth getting and will it fit the rifle?

[Hybriden]

I'd say it's a no. Save money for a real PSO-1 or POSP scope, cost a few dollars more but belive me, it's worth it.

Got my PSO-1 a few week ago, and the quality is superb.

 

My SVD will probably arrive tomorrow, cant wait to fit the scope and a woodkit that I've came across

Edited September 24, 2009 by Hybriden

[Mikhailthejackal]

Whats the difference between the PSO-1 and the POSP?

Can you suggest a retailer to get one from (that will deliver to the UK)?

*edit*

Found a supplier, any body know how good this POSP scope is by Milspex? http://www.scopeandlaser.com/index.php?sp=...p;more=&lang=en

Edited September 24, 2009 by Mikhailthejackal

[Hybriden]

I'm not sure how they differ, but it's another design and the PSO-1 is issue for the army I think, the POSP is a more modern scope, but they use both PSO-1 and POSP scopes.

The Milspex seems to be a copy of the Russian scope, a genuie scope aint that expensive. A relieble retailer is http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/ but ebay got some genuine scopes aswell!

[Jumprefusal]

I believe the POSPs are Belarus made, while the PSO are russian.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSO-1

I agree on the real scopes, I've used the craptastic old clone POSP scope that came with my Atoz and I've replaced it with the real thing. By FAR the real thing is better, the quality of the glass is as good as a $500 American scope. There are used POSPs out there for $100-$150 bucks, but I would still go for a new one.

I've used http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/ on more than one occasion, I would definetly recommend them for Russian goodies.

[Hybriden]

Got mine today, I'm a happy men. If only they did not cut down the spring

 

Here is a picture with the PSO-1 scope and AtoZ woodkit

[docs90]

I like mine black (the svd ffs) an the optics are a little better than the usual ###### offerings of 4x24 try 3-9x42 owww costly and the illuminating ret works too fps is a very happy 482

[Bane]

I like mine black (the svd ffs) an the optics are a little better than the usual ###### offerings of 4x24 try 3-9x42 owww costly and the illuminating ret works too fps is a very happy 482

 

 

Well considering the POSP's come in 2.5, 4, 6 and 8X magnification, depending what the rifle was intended for (Urban combat was 2.5-4X mag), and the illuminating red does work.. thing is, its intended to be "Subtle", a concept some people dont understand *Cough*

 

my Kalinka POSP arrived the other day and in a darkened/twilight situation the illumination is perfect. Its designed to light up in such a way that if the reticule is darkened out or similar the red will show up.

[Hybriden]

I find the illuminating only usefull at twilight, otherwise it's to bright...

I've got really low fps from stock, seems that WGC cut the spring, so if you don't have a spare 150/160/170 spring, don't buy from WGC

[docs90]

Bane may i show you this link

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rifle-Scope-SVD-Dragun...id=p3286.c0.m14

 

 

[Jumprefusal]

That's a fair price even after shipping.

[Hybriden]

Is it possible to buy a new set of pistonsears? It seems to be in potmetal, and it's seems to be way soft. Even with my spring under 300fps started to peel off the sear.

[Bane]

Bane may i show you this link

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rifle-Scope-SVD-Dragun...id=p3286.c0.m14

 

 

I've seen teh adjustable ones before but i'm unsure on their actual use in the army. Its a bit much to spend on airsoft though

 

My Kalinka one cost me $150 NZD ($80 USD) second hand and its as new, and i can still effectively hit targets at 80m with very speedy target aquisition due to the very wide angle of view (Much wider than a normal scope despite the tube diameter)

 

*Edit*

 

I'll also admit i was wrong as i didnt quite look at your original pic properly, i thought you had put a western scope on it instead (Apologies)

Edited September 29, 2009 by Bane

[fallout]

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...st&id=41664

 

 

this is my set up

 

just got the svd scope mount and a mill dot scope

[Kamigawa]

Is there any interest for another review on this gun?

[A Tobias]

Is there any interest for another review on this gun?

 

yes as many different opinions as possible

[Kamigawa]

Ah, then I might just have to write one

[snipersgetmorehead]

My rifle chronos at 503 fps consistantly.... eeeek.

[Bane]

Well i've done two games with it, and i've given it a considerable bit of tuning/tweaking/overhaul, and alot of bedding shots (About 1500 atm which is alot through a "Bolt" sniper)

 

Problems i've noticed:

 

Hopunit is held in by two 4mm grub screws, the bolt actually hits the hop unit, with alot of use or if your in the heat of battle and trying to get quick follow up shots you'll release your bolt home, which means its hitting against the hop unit, hard. This will slowly chew into the groove that holds the hop up in place and push the whole barrel unit forward.

 

Solution to this was to retap the holes for 6mm grub screws that have a rounded end on them, i also bedded a small rubber o-ring into the groove to act as a bit of shock absorbtion.

 

Barrel wobbles loose: Simple fix as above

 

Bolt doesent always go "home" to the same position, giving inconsistent shots

Solution: Take all the burrs off the bolt itself, and the bolt slides, a little bit of grease on the slideways and if you feel like you need to shim the return spring a little with some plastic/rubber tube until you get a good firm hold on the return.

 

I'm also looking into grooving the air nozzle so it will "Click" into position with the existing detent in the hop unit

 

Inconsistent FPS:

 

The inconsistency problems i've noticed with the gun are due to airseal and inconsistent bolt travel. There's also a few odd ball ones.

 

Metal/Metal contact: the metal piston scrapes against the metal cylinder. Because the piston is anodized, this is actually quite a problem, as even though aluminium is a soft metal, Ali Oxide, and Ali Anodizing, is actually very hard (60 rockwell) this means your piston acts almost like a very fine file, meaning it'll be abrasive and scratch into your cylinder slowing it down and giving you inconsistent shots.

Solution to this was use a X-Ring of slightly bigger diameter than standard, this held the piston "Central" to the cylinder and minimized the scraping effect on firing.

 

Wearing of the sear: Simple solution, make yourself a metal sear-seat, that matches the profile of the rear of the piston, so that when the piston is cocked instead of bearing on a flat surface, it bears onto a curved surface, spreading the load easier. This also helps by holding the piston a little straighter. The sear-seat can add a little to the height, and the thickness of the original sear lug, and not compromise performance or bolt pull length. Mines just held in by two little 3mm High-Tensile screws.

 

Other tweaks done

 

Trigger pull is kinda heavy, but as someone has mentioned there's a very small hole infront of the trigger guard, tap this out for 3mm and fit a grubscrew- voila! adjustable trigger.

 

However if you do this and adjust it to the point where your trigger pull is nice and light, your safety wont work! solution is to file the little arm of teh safety down a bit so it engages on the sear in its new position - simple job.

 

Screws Stripping:

 

This is always a big fear for me on guns with Zinc Potmetal bodys. The metal is soft, and does not like being undone and retightened overly. So to counter this i completely re-threaded the whole gun with whats known as "Helicoil" or "Recoils"

 

Basically you drill the hole a little bigger than standard size (for a 6mm metric thread you'd drill it 6.1) then tap it with the special tap supplied, and using the tool you wind in a hardened stainless steel thread (looks much like a little spring) this means the actual thread doing the work is steel meaning you can undo it to your hearts content and not worry about stripping the body

[Horsem4n]

thats all very informative. thanks a lot.

 

i have started to notice that my body and outer barrel are rusting (and various other pot metal parts). oh noes!

 

im thinking of grinding back the hop chamber a milimeter or so (from the side that contacts the bolt) and gluing on a rubber washer. that should help with air seal and bolt impact, but i have a tenancy to ride the bolt back to battery anyway.

must do the screw thing.

 

actually, what i must do is write the rest of this review right?

Edited October 16, 2009 by Horsem4n