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Dboys KAC PDW Review

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If your selector's loose, then just tighten it. Take a 2mm allen wrench and tighten the screw that's in the center of the selector that's on the same side as the bolt release.

 

Good point. Doing it in next minute or two. Thx.

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Good point. Doing it in next minute or two. Thx.

 

Done it, the screw hardly moved. It was pretty tight already. The "click" didn't feel any more solid than before.

 

Anyway, my point is, with a run off the mill V2 mechbox, even if the fire-selector is knocked slightly out of place, it shouldn't stop firing.

 

 

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Oh yes i have;)

 

inside:

systema magnum

11.1v 3500 30c

all other is orginal...and i haver never had any problem with the semi, with the pdw or any M4 style aeg with this setup.

pdwfotowebb5.jpg

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Just received my PDW Engraved version from Ebaybanned.

Came with a plastic orange flash hider along with the black metal KAC flash hider, 8" and 10" barrel extension, and is EXTREMELY nice. I am in love already.

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Done it, the screw hardly moved. It was pretty tight already. The "click" didn't feel any more solid than before.

 

Anyway, my point is, with a run off the mill V2 mechbox, even if the fire-selector is knocked slightly out of place, it shouldn't stop firing.

 

Theories just doesn't solve the problem though. What you should do is open up the gearbox yourself and have a look at what could be the problem. The takedown is similar to an AR-15 series minus the selectors. You will have to unscrew the selectors to remove the gearbox. And make sure you don't lose the clicky ball and spring.

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Field test it at a CQB venue yesterday.

 

The fire selector switch gets knocked off the semi position very easily. The gun will stop firing unless one moves the switch to auto, fires a burst and then put it back to semi.

 

This adds to my list of woes with the Boyi PDW.

 

Its actually to do with the design of the semi-auto cut off lever, its got a flat part there that during the firing cycle it prevents the trigger block to move forward.

 

You can modify that part. It fixes it up quite quickly, else you can get another cutoff.

 

 

 

But yes the PDW does need a better motor.

 

I installed a systema magnum into the PDW this weekend, the shaft of the magnum medium motor had to be shortened by about 2mm, and the motor base bushing needed to be changed to the D'boys one.

 

After that with the stock battery it was cycling quite nicely with its stock motor. Making it very usable.

 

Also the inner barrel is a 6.04mm tightbore, overgreased hop as usual, so all that was required was clean out the barrel and hop rubber and its instantly accurate. At 10-15m it outshoots a KA FAL/Galil, ICS SIG552, and a JG G36C for accuracy.

 

Clocks in at 400fps.

 

 

Makes me want to get one, the winter here is playing havoc with GBBs.

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Oh yes i have;)

 

inside:

systema magnum

11.1v 3500 30c

all other is orginal...and i haver never had any problem with the semi, with the pdw or any M4 style aeg with this setup.

 

 

your gun is going to blow up soon good luck.

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Its actually to do with the design of the semi-auto cut off lever, its got a flat part there that during the firing cycle it prevents the trigger block to move forward.

 

You can modify that part. It fixes it up quite quickly, else you can get another cutoff.

 

 

Clocks in at 400fps.

 

Are you saying that the cutoff lever is different from a regular M4? if I put a regular cutoff lever into the PDW, would I solve the problem? All I care is for the gun to continue to fire even if the selector is slight off position.

 

400fps? Mine is doing between about 90m/s and about 105m/s at the muzzle with 0.2g bbs. While I don't actually want it to be firing at 400 fps I think I always get the short straw.

 

Mine is the laser etched version.

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Yup the one I am tuning is shooting 400fps with a 0.2g. Its the no marking version.

 

If you put a regular cut off it should work.

 

Thx. The upside is that the part costs less than a tenner. The downside is that I've to open the mechbox. Can opens, worms crawl out...

 

Why on earth they didn't fit a regular cut-off lever as stock is beyond me.

 

Anyone has some comparative photos that they could post?

 

Cheers.

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Internals aren't bad at all, I think its actually quite refreshing compared to some of the AEGs out there. The stock spring is very stiff.

 

The can of worms is the bolt catch, and the whole ambidexerous fire selector and ball bearing that falls out when you take it apart.

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no way...? tightbore? mines not that accurate... i cleaned it put a systema hop up chamber, prommy strike chamber, ics bucking, element h nub and its putting like a 3 feet spread at 60 feet i guess i do have to take in the fact that the barrel is pretty small but even my stock jg mp5 was more accurate... hm... o well

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no way...? tightbore? mines not that accurate... i cleaned it put a systema hop up chamber, prommy strike chamber, ics bucking, element h nub and its putting like a 3 feet spread at 60 feet i guess i do have to take in the fact that the barrel is pretty small but even my stock jg mp5 was more accurate... hm... o well

 

Try degreasing your barrel and bucking with some water and dish soap. Half of the accuracy issues out there come from dirt and grime messing up one's shot consistency.

 

Edit: After reading your post again, I realized you cleaned some of your parts, so also make sure that your hop up's aligned correctly. The lump inside your hop up should be completely vertical.

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blow up?.......I have the same setup in my masada and its been running for a long time now. and so have many of my other aeg with highend setups.

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Internals aren't bad at all, I think its actually quite refreshing compared to some of the AEGs out there. The stock spring is very stiff.

 

The can of worms is the bolt catch, and the whole ambidexerous fire selector and ball bearing that falls out when you take it apart.

 

I think you've just told me not to take it apart until something breaks and I've no choice but to open up the mechbox.

 

I've a SCAR and the ambi-fire selector switch is pretty straight forward. How does the PDW differ (if you know)?

 

 

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The ambi selector is similar to the SCAR's except that you'll have to undo both selectors. There are also 4 gears working the ambi selector, but all of the gears are attached to the gearbox. It'll be easier than a SCAR's.

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The thing is that there are no markings on the ambi-selector clogs, and they are held in by the mechbox so you have to hold them in by your hands in the right alignment until you fit it into the mech.

 

And yeah I can show the barrel to be a tightbore cos I have a micrometer, all parts stock it shoots a very nice tight group 2-3cm group at 8m.

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In an earlier post I wrote that the

 

QD sling mount pulls out really easily of the rear, left mount hole...

 

Does anyone else have this problem?

 

Is the problem with the actual QD fitting? Or is it with the actual QD mount hole built into the gun?

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In an earlier post I wrote that the

 

 

 

Does anyone else have this problem?

 

Is the problem with the actual QD fitting? Or is it with the actual QD mount hole built into the gun?

 

I have the same problem as well. Though, I think it's the combination of the different tolerances of both the hole and the QD sling point. I tried mounting the QD sling point I got with the PDW on my Masada, but it fell out with the slightest pressure. I learned the hard way (rubs bruise on foot).

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Hmm,

 

Well, if it is a question of tolerances I wonder which bit is not correctly constructed? The hole on the PDW or the QD mount itself...

 

 

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I think someone in a previous post mentioned that the hole for the QD sling mount isn't "deep" enough because the mechbox gets in the way. The solution was to grind/dremel the sling mount so that it would go deep enough into the hole so that it can lock into place.

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