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Well, any airsoftgun beyond 0,5Joule has to be semi-auto.

 

Importeurs usually manipulate the selector plate for AEGs or the fireselector for GBBs.

And Umarex's MP7 is the "standard" KWA, whereas I believe that the KWA and KSC are 100% identical just like any KWA pistol is technically identical to their KSC counterpart.

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Well, coincidently I got in touch with Johnny from RA Tech and I was talking with him about aftermarket MP7 parts.

The heavier bolt carrier is in the works and I also told him about the chambers.

I'll talk to him again tomorrow and wanted to ask if it's ok if I provide him with your pictures of your broken chambers?

Hopefully they will come up with a reinforced one soon.

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Well, coincidently I got in touch with Johnny from RA Tech and I was talking with him about aftermarket MP7 parts.

The heavier bolt carrier is in the works and I also told him about the chambers.

I'll talk to him again tomorrow and wanted to ask if it's ok if I provide him with your pictures of your broken chambers?

Hopefully they will come up with a reinforced one soon.

Send me a private message with your Mail adress, and I'l spam you with photos of the cylinder. :D

 

Anything for a good cause!

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Thought I'd bring some critical info from Duckling back around for this

After taking the cylinder apart, I found that the cylinder valve is different from the design shown in the manual.

 

The manual shows part #27 having the same rod with 3 "wings" in the nozzle, in the parth of the gas flow.

Same as KSC/KWA Glock and all new System 7 have.

The Cylinder part found in my KSC Mp7A1 is a machined rod of metal with a disk in the end.

The diameter of the rod is taking up approx 66% of the inner diameter of the nozzle, blocking the flow of gas into the barrel.

 

The only reason I can see for this, is to get the power output down.

Changing the metal part to one similar to the common design may give +350fps...

 

But as my cylinder is bust, I can't try this.

 

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I'll talk to him again tomorrow and wanted to ask if it's ok if I provide him with your pictures of your broken chambers?

Hopefully they will come up with a reinforced one soon.

 

Anything to help get reinforced parts onto the market ASAP. My broken MP7 is basically a big paperweight now...

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Anybody who tells you KSC and KWA are different are just blowing steam out their *albatross*. KSC is the marketed for Japan version, KWA is the marketed for everyone else version. That's the reason the KSC USP has a plastic slide with trademarks, and the KWA USP has a metal slide that is blank.

 

And for the record, I've seen KWA NS2 nozzles blow in their 1911 series quite easily, so if KWA even tries to say that they're different, then I don't know what to say to that.

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I don't think we've seen any KWA failures yet - because we've only seen one KWA gun, the semi-only german one. All the KWAs on route to the US were delayedby the typhoon but should be out any day now.

 

Fair to say that this represents a fair old dilemma to KWA USA - they know the part is duff, but are about to unleash a few thousand units into the US, some bits of which are extremely hot right now - there should be a pretty rapid failure rate in California and an awful lot of bitchning on the KWA forums. Maybe.

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The strange thing is that the MP7 is out in germany for quite a while and (at least in the forum I'm at) it hasn't been even one report of a broken chamber. none, nada.

 

I doubt it has to be with fullauto, btw you can trigger a full magazine in semi very quickly as well.

 

That's kinda good news for the KWA buyers :)

 

But doesn't explain why the KSCs are blowing, if we are treating KWA USA's information as duff.

 

Are you happy to take a photo for your cylinder to compare with the broken one, to see if we can see any differences?

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So, you want me to take the boltcarrier apart or just from different angles the way it is?

Remove the 4 small screws in the side of the bolt.

Remove the small screw in the back.

Take out the small pin holding the cylinder return springs, on the back of the bolt.

Tap out the metal part sitting above the cylinder, and take out the cylinder.

 

Be careful to use the right, precise fitting screwdreivers, and take great care not to strip the small screws.

 

 

If you can't get it out, take pix's of the cylinder front (The Nozzel part).

You can move it forward and just hold it forward wile taking the pix.

Se if your Nozzel on the top right side have "MP7" written into it. Take a pix o this.

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