aznriptide859 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Galactica, are there not indentations on the return spring rod on the nozzle? I'm about to get a RF nozzle pack from -I-. How did you do the cuts? EDIT: What on earth is this? http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6307 And how could it increase recoil? 0_0 Edited February 17, 2010 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 I did 'em with a sharp leatherman blade. Ah, yet another "increase recoil" gadget I shall be avoiding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 KWA short mags at WGC now http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/produc...catid=&cat= Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-l- Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) I may buy a KWA MP7 just for some of the parts, is there anyone want to share out the cost together? reserved parts: no.25 no.26 no.30 no.31 no.32 no.37 no.59 no.102 Edited February 17, 2010 by -l- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 EDIT: What on earth is this? http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6307 And how could it increase recoil? 0_0 It looks like a replacement for part 30, the cup holder. It will add weight to the blow back assembly, which will give the gun a harder kick. In theory, it will delay the blow back slightly, which will force more gas into the barrel. This could raise fps. It probably wont, as the barrel is short & the bb will have left it, before the extra gas has a chance to have any effect. It will also lower the rof on full auto. Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) In theory, the Negative pressure valve will activate at a certain pressure/timing, which then redirects the gas from the breech back to the recoil piston. Hence a heavier recoil piston will kick harder but will not raise FPS at all because the recoil is separate from the blowback mechanism. However it will use up more gas to push the piston back. Edited February 17, 2010 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TacticalKitKat Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 I finally got my MP7 back from AA on tuesday and tested it out and guess what! So glad I bought the RF nozzle to upgrade it... Now to find a 1mm allen key Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AirSoftNJ Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 A Precision Screw Driver Set Works Just as Well as a Allen Key would Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruger13 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 I was about to install a NPAS valve on my KWA, but i cant open the screw at the rear holding the crossbar, i have put as much pressure on it as i dear (brute force always makes things worse) but it won't budge. Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 I was about to install a NPAS valve on my KWA, but i cant open the screw at the rear holding the crossbar, i have put as much pressure on it as i dear (brute force always makes things worse) but it won't budge. Any ideas? Penetrating oil & Impact driver? Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TacticalKitKat Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) A Precision Screw Driver Set Works Just as Well as a Allen Key would Already bought a Miniture Hex key set from Maplins, pretty good £3.99 for 7 keys, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2mm, 1.5, 1.3, 0.9 and 0.7. The 1.3 fits the KSC nozzle grubs perfectly Now in the process of fitting the RF nozzle Edited February 19, 2010 by TacticalKitKat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 Thought i'd report in since my KSC just got its first real winter workout (been using the KWA all the time until now). It has RF nozzle and the KM TN barrel. I used it all day, maybe 1500 rounds in roughly 5deg C in an unheated warehouse and it worked like a champion. Using propane I was getting 320fps and the tracer rounds hit the center of my EoTech's dot every time all the way out to as long as the warehouse was (perhaps 60 feet). You simply cannot compare this experience to using an AEG. I'm selling all my AEGs now, these guns have proved themselves totally I feel. With these and a Tm 5/7 on my hip, I don't need to worry about batteries or cooldown ever again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kretschmer Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 What was the temperature around during your game Galactica? I have to give mine another winter chance... Today at 15 ºC with an EdGi 6.00, NPAS fully open, it was 320 fps, skirmish-worthy again after the coldest part of winter is gone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 like I said, 5 degrees C! quite a lot colder than you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kretschmer Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) A quick mod I´ve done: Since I got the mp7 I´ve had some hop adjustment inaccuracies I can live with but I´d rather try to solve. I run an EdGi 6,00, an 3vil-D4n modded rubber and an NPAS in a stock KSC taiwan version. I have 350 fps limits on my fields, so I work with 0,20s and 0,25s mostly. You can measure your hop-up adjustment by counting on the clicks on the hop dial. 9 clicks is not enough for 0,20s on my machine but 10 clicks is too much. With 0,25s is even worse, the dial never seems to have a click point for the perfect hop and the chosen weight. So you just scrap the spring-loaded dial pin from beneath the dial and throughly teflon tape the long axis that runs inside the "gas tube" and on to the plastic hop pusher. "Throughly" means enough teflon tape so it´s kind of hard to adjust with the tool (and the hop dial won´t spin freely under repeated counter pressure from outgoing BBs, screwing your hop adjustment) but not so through it gets stuck. Now you have the perfect fine-tune hop for every weight. Cheap plus it works... Edited February 21, 2010 by Kretschmer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 fair enough I suppose, but I prefer finding an ideal BB. MadBull 0.25 works for me, and KSC .30s another notch up. I wouldn't dream of using .20s in my MP7s, they are just too affected by the wind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kretschmer Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Mine is also laser-accurate on madbull 0.28s and Bioval 0.27s but for 330ish fps open or mixed fields I need to play lighter. Also I find 0.20s very accurate even in long distances with this particular gun. The stock V-hop does wonders stabilizing the shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 I don't really understand why you can't use heavier BBs - "play lighter"? I use .25s or above but my gun chronoes 320-ish in this weather on .20s. Doesn't mean I have to use them. The delivered energy is the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kretschmer Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Yep energy stays, but range is significantly shorter. I find that more than 0.25 with only 330ish fps may be accurate but slow travelling and you lose too much range for my taste. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Ah, I see. In the UK there is rarely the need for me to get absolutely the longest range using a .2 - the wind will usually have blown it off towards the end of its travel. If you play in very open still places I can understand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 I should REALLY stop shooting this gun w/o return nozzle springs lol. Gun misfed like crazy today - I need to stop playing with it XD. Question - what might be causing the fact my BB's are madly curving to the right/up even with the hopup completely off? Also, anyone got a guide to take the gun down to the barrel? I'm curious if Redwolf's guide will suffice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AirSoftNJ Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 It was Posted a few pages back by Pantera on how to remove the Barrel, Page 42 First Post on the Top of the Page to be exact Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=2276920 And my hop fix explains why your barrel is hooking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 ^Yeah, I saw that but didn't want to delve in just yet. AirsoftNJ, thanks, I'll take a look at is Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Dan, just to make sure on your hopup-fix you speak of removing that smaller ring inside the hopup, correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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