cjboi Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 By the way if you guys are planning to change the inner barrel to TB or extended one. You will need .9mm hex key not 1mm, but ."9mm" hex key for the bolt and selector switch and 1.5mm key to open up the hop up chamber. Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) EDIT: Wrong thread ROFLMAO. Edited October 9, 2010 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Can someone take a picture of an MP7 internal please... The whole bolt system, "close up". Im thinking of changing the hammer spring, it seems like I screwed something. The trigger doesn't work now. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 What were you doing when this happened? Â I had a used one that had the trigger spring that was mauled a bit; I pulled the spring off the trigger and bent it straight and it it ran well after that. Â You have to be very carefull though putting the trigger in, if it's been bent once then it's easy to tweak when you're putting it back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I dont know what happened Im pretty sure I put the trigger back properly, but it doesn't seem to pull part #59 <-- that's where the trigger connects to. I wanna see how part# 59 and part# 85 should be. If you guys can open up your whole bolt system and take a picture that would be great. thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 never mind I figured it out.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Has anyone here tried installing the Dytac 150% hammer spring for mp7? Any improvements? It looks like this --> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 IF IT's NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT. Generally that rule will avoid alot of problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 IF IT's NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT. Generally that rule will avoid alot of problem. Â dude you always say that... even at airsoftcanada.com and dont worry about it I know how to open and fix things on my gun. I actually want opinions who actually had tried installing this in their gun. But ya, my gun has an issue and I tried everything and this hammer spring and the recoil spring might do the job. Im just waiting for it to arrive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 What's the issue, and did you try also signing on at the KWA site for first hand advice? Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 What's the issue, and did you try also signing on at the KWA site for first hand advice? Â Â KWA staff knows my gun issue, I've talked to spiggy, allizard and GCW and none of them could even figure it out. I've also talked to johnny from RA TECH and he can't figure it out too and gave me an advice that it might be my hammer where it presses the output valve. Â The problem is, before using the gun --> full mag and everything. I have to pull the charging handle twice before it starts firing. Tiger from here told me its the bolt carrier, he said "the striker tip on the bolt carrier being too short compare to others" and so I went to buy another bolt carrier. That didn't seem to solve the problem. But what I did notice is the nozzle is a bit tight inside the bolt carrier where it hits a snag on part 34. So I went to shave some of it off and its more looser now. But that didn't fix the whole problem either. But when I take the whole bolt carrier out and put it back in it seems like to fixes the problem. It comes back later, where I have to charge the handle twice before it starts firing. So I have a feeling Cottoni from airsoftcanada sold me a brand new MP7 with some used parts. Now I think its the recoil spring and the hammer spring that's weak. It doesn't seem to push the bolt carrier hard enough to hit the right exact spot between the nozzle and the gas output. So I bought myself the DYTAC enhanced recoil spring and the hammer spring. Once I receive them and install them onto my mp7 and I will you guys exactly the results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 dude you always say that... even at airsoftcanada.com and dont worry about it I know how to open and fix things on my gun. I actually want opinions who actually had tried installing this in their gun. But ya, my gun has an issue and I tried everything and this hammer spring and the recoil spring might do the job. Im just waiting for it to arrive. It's just because the amount of money I dump into fixing WA type GBBR was insane, and as with ptw, one bad move to disassemble the gun end up being $200 bill (forgot about the wires for stock tube take down) Â KWA staff knows my gun issue, I've talked to spiggy, allizard and GCW and none of them could even figure it out. I've also talked to johnny from RA TECH and he can't figure it out too and gave me an advice that it might be my hammer where it presses the output valve. Â The problem is, before using the gun --> full mag and everything. I have to pull the charging handle twice before it starts firing. Tiger from here told me its the bolt carrier, he said "the striker tip on the bolt carrier being too short compare to others" and so I went to buy another bolt carrier. That didn't seem to solve the problem. But what I did notice is the nozzle is a bit tight inside the bolt carrier where it hits a snag on part 34. So I went to shave some of it off and its more looser now. But that didn't fix the whole problem either. But when I take the whole bolt carrier out and put it back in it seems like to fixes the problem. It comes back later, where I have to charge the handle twice before it starts firing. So I have a feeling Cottoni from airsoftcanada sold me a brand new MP7 with some used parts. Now I think its the recoil spring and the hammer spring that's weak. It doesn't seem to push the bolt carrier hard enough to hit the right exact spot between the nozzle and the gas output. So I bought myself the DYTAC enhanced recoil spring and the hammer spring. Once I receive them and install them onto my mp7 and I will you guys exactly the results. Sounds familiar somewhat, can you release the gas just by pressing the release with your thunb? or do you really need to push it? or do you need a hammer? (If you fill the mag with too much liquid propane it will make the release alot harder. I really don't think it's the hammer spring, unless you store your gun cocked, which you shouldn't. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 I had one that the bolt would return to battery on. Wouldn't feed, wouldn't fire, and so on. Â The hopup rubber was so swollen that it was blocking the nozzle. A new rubber and it's all happy. I haven't seen anyone in Canada stocking them but some should. I got mine from KWA. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 It's just because the amount of money I dump into fixing WA type GBBR was insane, and as with ptw, one bad move to disassemble the gun end up being $200 bill (forgot about the wires for stock tube take down) Â Â Sounds familiar somewhat, can you release the gas just by pressing the release with your thunb? or do you really need to push it? or do you need a hammer? (If you fill the mag with too much liquid propane it will make the release alot harder. I really don't think it's the hammer spring, unless you store your gun cocked, which you shouldn't. Â I only count up to 7 to 10 when I fill my mag... and my hammer spring got weaker since I didnt know the proper way how to take the whole hammer out and to put it back in before. Now I know an easy way without bending the hammer spring individually and without even touching part # 73. I lost about 20 FPS now that my hammer spring is weak. Well I know for sure I need to get a recoil spring and hammer spring since its half cocked, so its not firing. I need the recoil spring to push the bolt carrier hard to it's place and hit the striker tip well. I don't store my gun cocked. Ill let you guys know what happens when im done installing the parts as soon as I receive them from hongkong. I've been talking to everyone in KWA about my situation and they're very aware of my situation with no solution. Hopefully it will work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gerryg Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 I had one that the bolt would return to battery on. Wouldn't feed, wouldn't fire, and so on.  The hopup rubber was so swollen that it was blocking the nozzle. A new rubber and it's all happy. I haven't seen anyone in Canada stocking them but some should. I got mine from KWA.  I was having pretty much the same problem with mine, replaced the hop rubber with the standard KSC Glock, Sig etc type and she's up and working again!  On a side note, it looks as if it's time for the npas to be removed for the coming months, on green gas @ 12°c ambient temp, it chron'd at 0.5J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st_shooter Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Anyone know of a uk source for the Hop rubber? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 You can ask elite shooting centre, last I asked he was awaiting delivery. I think I spotted some on fire support but they may have been for a different model (although it should still be compatible). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gerryg Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 Anyone know of a uk source for the Hop rubber? Â If you can source a standard ksc hop rubber you'll be fine. I know it's not a direct answer to your question but the standard ksc hop rubber works better than the one I got from den trinity. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 By the way I recently installed the dytac recoil spring and dytac hammer spring. I must say it fixed the problem so far. I dont have to pull the charging handle twice for now, before it starts to function. It took me awhile to install it because I had to wait after my exams. The dytac hammer spring did not make any difference from the stock hammer spring, they produced the same amount of FPS. Im guessing the the problem with my gun really was it wasn't pushing the whole bolt in to trigger the hammer spring. DYTAC recoil spring is really stiff compare to my old used one, its an A+ after market part for the KSC/KWA MP7. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Anyone know of a uk source for the Hop rubber? Â the hop up rubber for KSC or KWA m11a1 ns2/system 7 is the same as the MP7 GBB. The inner barrel is not the same though, due to the lining of the clip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Looking at upgrading a KSC (Japan) MP7A1 - can someone confirm if there is both a steel and an aluminium bolt carrier available? I'm seeing conflicting/confusing descriptions on various sites. Â Is it necessary to install this on the KSC Jap? Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Bomber make both steel and aluminium bolt carriers: http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=26087 http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=27383 Â You'll probably not want the steel one, if you go back a few pages in this thread there are pictures of why. I don't see why the stock aluminium(?) bolt carrier won't hold up, mine is fine after ~30k, so it probably isn't necessary unless you're having problems with your stock BC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Thanks. I'm trying to avoid the steel one for that very reason. I'm lead to beleive that the KSC Jap version now comes with a plastic bolt carrier although I'm certain my first one had a metal one... Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Definitely metal, posting on the other forum now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Cheers. Â Given what a balls-ache fiddling with the MP7's innard is, I'm collecting the component parts for a second, fully-built bolt assembly with the Rocket Valve. This is so I can just drop it in when the season's change. Â I have everything for the second one except the Piston Head - does the 'Action Piston Head' come supplied with the requisite screw to attach it? Â Also, the little bar at the back that holds the springs in place - is that available as a spare or should I just make my own from metal rod? That's possible but what screw would I use to secure it? Â Are you experienced? Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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