Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 5.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

Posted Images

Hope this hasn't already been covered, but what kind of inner barrel is it?

 

Standard AEG compatible one?

 

If you look down the middle of it can you tell if it is a TK hop-twist barrel?

 

It supposedly takes VSR inner barrels. The outer barrel is a modified AEG barrel.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sean,

 

Standard rails will fit your gun no problems, no need to cut, file or perform any modifications.

 

Now below is a snap of my CT Vest, the mag pouches are made to fit Two USGI Stanag Magazines Snugly! As you can see the KJW Thermolds fit, but the Fit Is Very Tight. Also notice I usually keep the flap tucked in behind the magazines but the KJW magazines are so thick I am unable to; but pulling them out in a pouch so tight is not practical.

 

Next up are the KJW Magazines in single Fast Mag pouch. The fit is very nice, easily stowed and held / easily accessed when needed.

 

For those of you who go with more "commercial" gear such as the Pantac Ciras or other ACM type gear. Traditionally more commercial gear pouches have a more 'Relaxed' fit in regards to magazine retention.

 

Below is the Pantac double mag pouch. As you can see the pouch isn't stretched tight around the magazines and fit loosely. So loose the magazines are actually falling away from each other.

 

Single Magazine pouches are no issue either as most have some type of elastic band for added retention and will easily accommodate the KJW M4 or any other M4 magazine.

 

In Summary:

 

Double Mag Pouch - Using Eagle, Paraclete, Tactical Tailor, Coyote Tactical or any USGI Stanag Spec Pouches + KJW Thermold = No Go!

 

Single Mag Pouch - Fast Mag + Thermold = Go

 

Double Mag Pouch - Pantac / Phantom, ACM or China Made = Go

 

Single Mag Pouch = Go

 

Cheers for that Raven,

 

Just ordered one of these beauts and 5 spare magazines, now just to wait for the final shipping quote and it'll be on it's way.

My plan is to run it on duster gas here in the UK and see what it's putting out, it's it's still too high probably look at restricting the gas flow but will have to see.

 

Cheers Sean

Link to post
Share on other sites
Cheers for that Raven,

 

Just ordered one of these beauts and 5 spare magazines, now just to wait for the final shipping quote and it'll be on it's way.

My plan is to run it on duster gas here in the UK and see what it's putting out, it's it's still too high probably look at restricting the gas flow but will have to see.

 

Cheers Sean

 

Sean,

 

Duster gas will work well in this gun as it will keep the wear and tear down to a minimum on this system.

 

Should you need to restrict the gas flow to get your FPS down use an epoxy resin on the nozzle valve located inside the bolt cup. Be sure to shape it and sand it so that it will seat smoothly inside the nozzle and not get hung up on anything. As you can see from the pictures below you'll need to remove the bolt cup from the BCG.

 

IMG_1535.jpg

 

There is a pin that holds the plunger in place and is loosened on the opposite side as shown in the picture,

 

IMG_1537.jpg

 

The pin is screwed down making removal extremely simple and quick.

 

1: Unscrew pin using standard jewelers screw driver and pull out (AGAIN From Left Side NOT Right Side Like The Picture - Sorry For That!)

 

2: Reach inside remove the plunger, it will come out plunger first with spring attached second, remove spring.

 

3: Modify with epoxy resin, let set, shape by cutting sanding, (NOTE - Be careful not to get any resin on the o-ring seal on the plunger)

 

4: Test fit with out spring to verify plunger will seat into bore. If it is too tight, use a Q-Tip and push it back out from the nozzle end.

Keep shaping until it moves freely and smoothly.

 

5: Re-install onto spring, place back into bolt cup spring first.

 

6: Using a Q-tip or similar apply pressure onto the plunger in order to get the pin back in, fasten down and you're done.

 

Depending on how much of the plunger gas ports you restricted will reduce the gas flow. I recommend very small increments until you get it right around where you need it.

 

 

 

However,

 

t_hum and I are working on a drop in plunger / restrictor to drop the gas pressure right where you need it whether you're playing indoors or outdoors to meet the field requirements.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine just showed up today. Got to the east coast of america in under three days. Its amazing, but that little rubber cup is damaged. Its not completely broken, but the edges are a little mutated at two points. I put some silicone grease in there so that it would seal better. It was porting gas before the silicon grease. After, the seal was perfect again. Just thought I'd post this to anyone who has this problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Mine just showed up today. Got to the east coast of america in under three days. Its amazing, but that little rubber cup is damaged. Its not completely broken, but the edges are a little mutated at two points. I put some silicone grease in there so that it would seal better. It was porting gas before the silicon grease. After, the seal was perfect again. Just thought I'd post this to anyone who has this problem.

 

I just replaced my seal with one I had ordered from the KJW factory and it tore with in the 18 magazines I put through it last night.

 

Still shoots well and kicks hard, might be something with the lip seal that they are using with the staged vent (the bolt cup is not perfectly concentric, it is tight initially, but the inside diameter of th bore grows larger towards the back to let gas escape). The seal may be getting torn as the gas makes its way past the lip seal,,,

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, it is a problem that all KJW M4's apparently suffers from, not sure about the newer ones, but all the first batch #1-250 does. My solution is to find an o-ring that can sit inside the lips and glue it in.

 

And Raven,t_hum, keep us updated on the nozzle if you will, I'm really interested in one.

 

Oh, one more thing, you can order spare parts from KJW, so the best idea would be to make some flow restricters, and then buy new bolt assemblies. That way, you can easily swap fps as you like.

Edited by Donut
Link to post
Share on other sites

As sad is this is for me to say this, something broke on my KJW within the first 30 mags. The part of my lower receiver where the piece is to hold the buffer in the tube snapped while firing. The piece it self got lodged between the sear and trigger and some how disabled the fire selector. As you can imagine this created problems( hammer not locking back, trigger not resetting, trigger jamming ect). Frankly having the buffer held back when opening the gun means nothing to me. After taking it down and removing the piece i noticed that the fire selector would still not move. Looks like I'll be placing an order from kjw for some spare parts. Im a little disappointed after all the good stuff I've read, but still very optimistic. After taking it down i see how simple and smart this design really is and how well it can perform. So, until i order/receive the parts its a semi only, but the accuracy is good enough that I could make it work for me if I had to.

Link to post
Share on other sites
As sad is this is for me to say this, something broke on my KJW within the first 30 mags. The part of my lower receiver where the piece is to hold the buffer in the tube snapped while firing. The piece it self got lodged between the sear and trigger and some how disabled the fire selector. As you can imagine this created problems( hammer not locking back, trigger not resetting, trigger jamming ect). Frankly having the buffer held back when opening the gun means nothing to me. After taking it down and removing the piece i noticed that the fire selector would still not move. Looks like I'll be placing an order from kjw for some spare parts. Im a little disappointed after all the good stuff I've read, but still very optimistic. After taking it down i see how simple and smart this design really is and how well it can perform. So, until i order/receive the parts its a semi only, but the accuracy is good enough that I could make it work for me if I had to.

 

Sorry this happened,

 

When my nozzle plunger broke (part #17) it came apart and also was lodged under the trigger assembly and then I had failure to fire (unless the safety selector was turned) then it would fire once more and get stuck again with a failure to reset. Once you clear the debris the trigger assembly should operate as normal.

 

If I am understanding correctly part # 49 is broken?

Please note: it is held in by screw 87 and to access it you'll need to remove the outer portion of the buffer tube - Parts # 52, 50 and 51.

 

If you need any assistant please don't hesitate to ask,,,

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sorry this happened,

 

When my nozzle plunger broke (part #17) it came apart and also was lodged under the trigger assembly and then I had failure to fire (unless the safety selector was turned) then it would fire once more and get stuck again with a failure to reset. Once you clear the debris the trigger assembly should operate as normal.

 

If I am understanding correctly part # 49 is broken?

Please note: it is held in by screw 87 and to access it you'll need to remove the outer portion of the buffer tube - Parts # 52, 50 and 51.

 

If you need any assistant please don't hesitate to ask,,,

 

Yeah, I managed all that. I broke a pin during disassembly to get the piece out. No big deal, ill just order one. Looks like I'm gonna order replacements and spares for some parts that look like they will be high ware. Anyone know how much mags cost? And are the prices in the manual in USD? All the prices are like 20 or 80 or 100 I'm hoping that thats 20 cents, 80 cents and 1 dollar. :) Gonna send a message on kjw's website to ask for parts prices tonight.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah, I managed all that. I broke a pin during disassembly to get the piece out. No big deal, ill just order one. Looks like I'm gonna order replacements and spares for some parts that look like they will be high ware. Anyone know how much mags cost? And are the prices in the manual in USD? All the prices are like 20 or 80 or 100 I'm hoping that thats 20 cents, 80 cents and 1 dollar. :) Gonna send a message on kjw's website to ask for parts prices tonight.

 

Mags are $39 USD

 

Prices are Taiwanese, they are priced really well actually as I ordered a sizeable amount of parts myself with 4 day shipping and it cost $35 USD.

 

I wouldn't worry about the trigger assembly wearing much on you, I've now have 108 magazines through for a total of 3220 BBs down range and the hop up, carrier, bolt stop, lower assembly components are all looking good. Spares me personally would recommend having on hand are the bolt cup, nozzle, nylon band, lip seals and the spring that holds the bolt cup to the carrier and you're all set.

Edited by Raven1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to get a sense for demand...

 

Who is interested in a FPS reducer?

 

For those interested: would you rather buy the o-ring piston head separately or combined with the flow reducer components?

-and-

are you interested in purchasing a complete BGC with all the parts preinstalled? (Several FPS options would be available).

 

After getting together with Raven1 this weekend we saw another potential design option and I am pursuing that at the moment rather than my original concept. For this reason no photo/video has been posted.

 

The current FPS reducer design is NOT adjustable on the fly. It requires a quick removal of the carrier and a swap of a part in the bolt cup. Total swap time should be just a minute or two. Having the design like this means its more robust and players dont have to deal with sites complaining of on the fly adjustments.

 

I still wont post pricing until I contact a mod. PM me and I can give you rough estimates of what it should cost.

 

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd be willing to buy one as well. I wouldn't want a complete Bolt Carrier Group though, just the piece. I would probably adjust it the day of the game and leave it.

 

 

I think we also need one of those animated signature things like the "Realism Inside:WA M4" so we can all represent the KJW.

 

 

:)

Edited by gasrifles
Link to post
Share on other sites
Just to get a sense for demand...

 

Who is interested in a FPS reducer?

 

For those interested: would you rather buy the o-ring piston head separately or combined with the flow reducer components?

-and-

are you interested in purchasing a complete BGC with all the parts preinstalled? (Several FPS options would be available).

 

After getting together with Raven1 this weekend we saw another potential design option and I am pursuing that at the moment rather than my original concept. For this reason no photo/video has been posted.

 

The current FPS reducer design is NOT adjustable on the fly. It requires a quick removal of the carrier and a swap of a part in the bolt cup. Total swap time should be just a minute or two. Having the design like this means its more robust and players dont have to deal with sites complaining of on the fly adjustments.

 

I still wont post pricing until I contact a mod. PM me and I can give you rough estimates of what it should cost.

 

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

 

I am totally interested, I'd just want Complete Piston w/ O-ring and adjuster.

Edited by stickyittoyou
Link to post
Share on other sites

After reading all 16 pages twice I'm pretty sure this gun is for me. The main thing that strayed me away from GBBRs until now were the number of threads made on gasgun forum on this and that failing and needing to spend money to replace so many parts.

 

I do indoors and backyard plinking once in a while so it won't go through too many rounds per year. Another review should be up soon ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
After reading all 16 pages twice I'm pretty sure this gun is for me. The main thing that strayed me away from GBBRs until now were the number of threads made on gasgun forum on this and that failing and needing to spend money to replace so many parts.

 

I do indoors and backyard plinking once in a while so it won't go through too many rounds per year. Another review should be up soon ;)

 

 

The More Reviews The Better!

 

Post Up Your Experiences / Feelings About The Gun Guys - People Need To Know Just How Good This Gun Is!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Over the weekend I disassembled the barrel and the receiver, and missed around with the hop up unite little bit. I figured out why my bbs were keep falling out before pulling the trigger. I believe the lever that pushes the hop up bucking is not thick enough to be very effective, so I added some electrical tap around the lever and the bucking. It worked very well. The bbs stopped falling out and the hop up worked better than before. I definitely believe the hop up unite should be improved on the next version of the kjw m4.

 

Also, has anybody tried a pdi 6.01 vsr-10 tbb on their kjw m4 yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I'd be willing to buy one as well. I wouldn't want a complete Bolt Carrier Group though, just the piece. I would probably adjust it the day of the game and leave it.

 

 

I think we also need one of those animated signature things like the "Realism Inside:WA M4" so we can all represent the KJW.

 

 

:)

 

 

Here you go bro,

 

KJWM4.gif

 

Please Do Not Hot Link Against My Photo Bucket Account - down load it to your computer and set it up like you normally would,,,

Link to post
Share on other sites
KJWM4.gif

Just had a thought. The system is by Tanio Koba and KJW just manufactured them. The system used in AGM/JG/G&P/Inokatsu is still referred to as WA system, right?

 

As I am in Japan, I am seriously considering to get the Japanese version when it comes out. Strange that the release date is in October when it's already starting to get cooler. I wonder how the performance is in cold weather...

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just had a thought. The system is by Tanio Koba and KJW just manufactured them. The system used in AGM/JG/G&P/Inokatsu is still referred to as WA system, right?

 

As I am in Japan, I am seriously considering to get the Japanese version when it comes out. Strange that the release date is in October when it's already starting to get cooler. I wonder how the performance is in cold weather...

 

I was not aware that there is Japanese Version of the Koba-san Design KJW M4 being released??

 

Very interesting, please tell me more,,,

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.