KJW M4

[cent101]

My money is really burning a hole in my pocket But no retailers seem to have both gun and mag in stock, atleast not HK or EU ones with reasonable prices. (50€ per mag is not..) Any suggestions?

[slipknot1971]

My money is really burning a hole in my pocket But no retailers seem to have both gun and mag in stock, atleast not HK or EU ones with reasonable prices. (50€ per mag is not..) Any suggestions?

 

 

Well....i know from a friend who e-mailed kjworks about mags production status since it's all sold out everywhere...and they told him that most of the mags that were for sale were the ones to carry the on demand for the first batch of tanios(serialized i think), so the new stock will be arriving soon...hope it's as soon as May.

[gasrifles]

Hey guys, I've been out of the loop here for a while (since November or so). In the winter real steel guns kind of take over airsoft for me. Anyway, my KJW M4 is up past 10k with minimal problems. I have to tighten the piston every now and again or I get jams. I still need to get the velocity reducer and pistol from T-Hum. I lost the front pin that the upper pivots on, but no biggie, I'll just make one(or did I order an extra when I got other parts?). I've had great success with this gun at games even though i only have two magazines. Everyone wants to be on my team because they are afraid of the other end of the gun. Anyway, I'm looking to get an Eotech clone (G&P 552 specificaly) and was wondering if any of you had any comments on this. My only worry is that the recoil will break it. My gun is just about magpuled out at this point. I only need the stock. Anyway, do you think that replica Eotechs will stand up to the recoil? Thanks.

 

 

Also, does anybody know of flat top gas blocks that work with this replica?

Edited May 2, 2010 by gasrifles

[Raven1]

@ gasrifles

A RS front pin pivot pin will fit right in and Works Great! Best thing is the fact that it is captured and won't pull all the way out like the Factory KJW Pin(s).

 

Same goes for the rear take down pin as well. I have a RS rear take down pin and love how it never comes out.

 

Just be sure to File the small NUB on the Factory Detent pin that either the Front Pivot Pin or Rear Take Down Pin ride on as this NUB makes it very difficult to get the pins moving.

 

So file the NUBs of ends of the Detent Pins and your Front Pivot Pin and Rear Take Down Pin will stay put until you need them otherwise.

 

 

ANY Flat Top Gas Block will fit on the barrel, so feel confident on buying the style you like and pop it on. I have a serialized model (early model) and my A-Frame Front Sight pins were directional and went in and out easier going in a specific direction - Push from the Reaction Side so the pins came out the Primary Side. But it is standard and compatible with AEG & RS alike.

 

 

Sorry can't help with the EoTech, but I'm sure there are many here who will be happy to report,,,

[be_c]

Anyway, do you think that replica Eotechs will stand up to the recoil? Thanks.

I'm interested in this as well. And not just for G&P Eotech, but generally airsoft replicas vs. recoil. From what I remember reading WE GBB topic loong time ago, some of them die. So what are you guys using and what's your experience?thx Edited May 2, 2010 by be_c

[Mini-Support]

I have the G&P/UFC 551 replica. Works great. The recoil does not seem to affect it at all.

[Phenom1]

I've been using a Hurricane 552 replica with no loss at all so far. My Aimpoint T1 replica seems to lose zero much faster.

[Raven1]

Still Waiting on my Magpul A.S.A.P. Plate so I Apologize for Not Updating Lately!

 

So If I May I Would Like To Explain Semi Auto and Full Auto Fire.

 

This Also Applies To The W.A. Platform As Well.

 

 

 

Semi Auto - Safety : Note / No Extra Cuts allowing for use of Auto Sear, Full Auto Trigger, Full Auto Dis-Connector

,

Semi Auto - Trigger : Trigger Is Wider at the rear where Trigger Aligns/fits Into Safety

,

Semi Auto - Dis-Connector : Note The Rear of Semi Auto Dis-Connector Is Shorter

,

Semi Auto - Hammer :Note There Is NO Notch At The Top Of Hammer for Auto Sear To Engage:

 

Here Are The Semi Auto (Safety Selector - NOT FULL Auto) Components Working Together,

!!PLEASE NOTE: The Hammer where it interacts with the Trigger IS INCORRECTLY Called The Sear - THIS IS WRONG!!

,

: On Semi Auto Weapons there is ONLY a "Safety" NOT a "SELECTOR" a "Selector" is for Full Auto Weapons ONLY :

- There are 2 Groups Working Here -

1: The Safety

2: The Trigger Group / Hammer, Trigger, Dis-Connector

 

The Safety is moved from 'Safe' to 'Semi',

Allows the Trigger to be squeezed,

The front of the Trigger to slides off the Hammer,

The Hammer falls striking the firing pin,

The REAR of the Trigger and the REAR of the Dis-Connector Move Together Fitting INTO the Safety Selector,

(The REAR of the SEMI-AUTO Dis-Connectors Are NOT Long Enough To Fit Into the Safety)

Carrier Moves back and resets the Hammer Latching ONTO the Dis-connector,

Pressure is removed from the Trigger,

Trigger is Flat or Level again UN-LATCHING the Dis-Connector,

Resetting the Trigger Back Onto the Hammer,

The Trigger is ready to be squeezed again to start another cycle.

 

 

FULL AUTO TRIGGER GROUPS ARE DIFFERENT

 

The Trigger Group Components Are Dimensionally Different - As Noted in the picture below

,

Full Auto Trigger Group

,

Top & Middle = Semi Auto Bolt Carrier /-\ Bottom = Full Auto Bolt Carrier

 

The Rear of the Dis-Connector is MUCH Longer and Reaches/Fits into the Selector,

The Dis-Connector Moves Independent INSIDE the Trigger,

The Dis-Connector Does NOT Move During Full Auto Fire.

The Dis-Connector is Acted upon by the Selector and Remains in the 'Down' Position during full auto fire,

The Trigger sides at the Rear and machined Narrower to fit Inside the Selector,

The Selector has Many Additional Cuts for Full Auto Fire,

In 'Semi' Auto Fire the Dis-Connector Is 'In Time' with the Selector,

The Selector in 'Semi' does NOT Allow the Auto Sear to move Free - Auto Sear Is 'Captured' and Can NOT Engage the Hammer,

Auto Sear is 'Captured' by being rotated forward so the Hammer is 'Out of Time' with the Auto Sear,

Auto Sear is 'Captured' by being rotated forward so the Bolt Carrier is 'Out of Time' with the Auto Sear,

The Rear - Under Side of the Bolt Carrier has a 'Squared' Edge to actuate the Auto Sear,

The Hammer has a Notch at the Top Rear for the Auto Sear to engage.

 

Essentially the Selector, Trigger Group, Auto Sear and Carrier ALL Interact with each other.

 

The Auto Sear is what works together with the Selector and Bolt Carrier to allow full auto fire by holding the Disconnector UNLATCHED allowing the Hammer to continually drop as long as the Trigger is held down.

 

The Sequence of Events:

 

Selector is moved from 'Semi' to 'Auto',

The Auto Sear moves into the slot of the Selector placing the Auto Sear 'In Time' with Bolt Carrier and Hammer,

A 'Tab' on the Selector moves against/right next to and HOLDS the Dis-Connector in the 'UN-LATCHED' Position,

The Dis-Connector Is Now 'Out of Time' with the Hammer and the Trigger,

The Hammer is Still being held by the Trigger from previous 'Semi' auto configuration,

The Trigger is squeezed and HELD in DOWN Position - The Narrow REAR section of the Trigger slides INSIDE of the Selector,

The Hammer slides off the Front of the Trigger,

The Hammer Strikes the Firing Pin,

Bolt Carrier Cycles back,

 

Trigger Is Being Held Down and Allowed to do so by sliding/resting in Selector : Can Not Engage Front of Hammer

Dis-Connector IS Being Held Down by Selector - Can NOT Latch Trigger

Auto Sear Is Now 'In Time' with Top Notch of Hammer

 

Bolt Carrier Cycles Back Moving Hammer Back and LOWER Than Auto Sear,

Bolt Continues to Move Back Allowing Auto Sear Into 'Open' area of Middle of Bolt Carrier,

Auto Sear NOW In Open Area Rotates Forward Aligning Front Auto Sear Latch to Line Up ABOVE Top Notch of Hammer,

Bolt Carrier Moves Forward Allowing Hammer to Move Up to Latch with 'Front' Auto Sear,

Auto Sear Now Is Latched with and Holding Hammer,

Bolt Carrier Continues to Move Forward to Battery,

As Bolt Carrier Comes To Rest at FULL Battery - Rear of Bolt Carrier Strikes Rear of Auto Sear,

Strike Rotates Auto Sear Upward Un-LATCHING Hammer,

Hammer Falls Striking Firing Pin,

 

- Cycle Continues To Repeat Until Trigger Is Released -

 

When Trigger Is Released the Trigger rotates forward,

Front of Trigger Engages Front of Hammer,

 

This Is Illustrated by the Animation Below - Apologies as this is a D.I.A.S (Drop In Auto Sear) Configuration.

! But The Principle Is The Same !

,

[cent101]

Ordered mine today plus four spare mags and a Magpul PTS MOE handguard w/ optional rails! Finally!

 

UNCompany have both the gun and mags in stock now!

[Amadem]

Long time not here and I looked a little backwards.

1. Are there any news about the Japanese version of the M4 TK?

2. Will came out some new parts, upgrades?

My replica shot over 13k and still no problems.

But slowly I look for some parts.

3. If they are already available?:

- A longer inner barrel,

- Sling Plate,

- Stanag magazines ( ),

 

 

@ Raven1

 

I saw your Lower Receiver Machine Work - Buffer MILSPEC project.

Well done especially now that you can install the RS Sling Plates.

But I have a few questions.

4. What Buffer Retainer Spring and now you use?

5. Is it the KJW is not too loose? And, in turn, whether that of the WA / WOC / MTW will not be too heavy and does not damage the Bolt Carrier?

 

6.And since we're on Bolt Carrier, if anyone tried to increase the Recoil?

I wonder whether the heavy steel CNC Bolt Carrier something to help.

Edited May 9, 2010 by Amadem

[Raven1]

@ Amadem

The MILSPEC Buffer Mod is using a WA - Winter Spring and the felt weight is very similar to the Stock KJW Spring.

 

 

It was after Op Red Storm I NEEDED To Do This Mod!

 

After carrying the rifle on a sling attached through the stock all weekend the KJW Buffer tube sleeve kept coming loose. No Matter What Was Done It WOULD NOT STAY Tight. So This Mod wasn't out of Want - But Necessity!

I Had To Be Done - With Out Question!

 

The long term effects of the bolt carrier and the wear is yet to be seen. But I am willing to record all the data and post the results on if the benefits out weigh the negatives. I'm guessing the benefits will win out over the negatives.

 

I have not tried to increase the recoil, I'm all about robust operation and reliability, a gun that runs all weekend, throw it in the closet take it out weeks later and run the gun all weekend again with no issues.

 

I have my 5.56 rifle if I want realism.

 

 

Replacement parts are easily ordered from KJW, after market parts are like the TB Barrel you can get from Cradle Airsoft.

[Bleaumaglite]

I recently ordered a new dust cover assembly from KJW, after paying, do they provide a tracking number or any confirmation that they have shipped something out?

[Kai_Wolf]

Well, I found something else wrong with my rifle today. It isnt too bad, but could someone tell me if there is this is going to be an issue?

 

The retaining well in the front, where the pin goes through on the upper receiver (that holds the two halves together), the outside ring on the right side has shattered but the gun holds together still due to the middle still holding. Heres a pic

 

[Raven1]

@ Kai Wolf

My upper did the same thing and it is an issue.

 

If you don't open it up much it won't be a problem. But I open mine a lot to check my internals and how they hold up and the Upper begins to fit loosely when locked down on the lower.

The Upper Actually Slides FORWARD and Isn't as Snug as it should be Towards the buffer tube section of the lower.

 

The Center section that is now exposed is the KJW Barrel Extension that Incorporates Half of the Hop Up Unit. It is only held in place by a very small and very long screw. So in time your hop up consistency will begin to suffer. You can get away with it in the short term. The gun will of course keep running and shooting but your BBs will begin to go all over the place in a short while.

 

I ordered one from Clare and shipped to me was $59.00 USD.

 

@BleauMagLite

In Most cases Clare does provide shipping confirmation and is done through PayPal in the notes. I have 1 or twice not received confirmation But Have ALWAYS Received Ordered Parts. So Have No Fear Broh - Your Stuff Is On The Way,,,

 

 

@ Amadem

Correction Sir - It Is The SUMMER Weight Spring in my KJW - NOT Winter

Edited May 10, 2010 by Raven1

[Kai_Wolf]

Thanks a lot Raven. Now you ordered a new upper shell for 59 dollars?

[Raven1]

Thanks a lot Raven. Now you ordered a new upper shell for 59 dollars?

 

Yes, $59 USD delivered to my door,,,

[Kai_Wolf]

Just a quick question Raven, only one side of the ears is gone, like in your previous picture. If that other ear holds it, it should not move foward until it breaks, correct? I shouldnt experience any hop up issues if the second holds up? I dont feel any play at all in the upper to lower receiver yet. I only ask beacuse I Clare has not responded to my email and I dont know when I can purchase one of the new uppers.

[Raven1]

@ Kai_Wolf

Yeah I hear ya, I didn't get a response from her for nearly 2 weeks.

 

In time the other side will loosen as you use, carry/apply weight to the gun, or separate the upper from the lower.

 

Also, when I emailed her I attached a photo of the broken part, she usually is quick(er) to respond when she sees you have a broken gun. But not really,,,

[poopstania]

Well, well, well.

Look-ee here:

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-gun/gas-blow-black-rifle/kj-works/kj-works-m4-cqb-gas-blow-back-rifle-tanio-koba-design.html

 

 

I would have liked to have gotten this from the beginning, but my rifle is cool as it is.

 

 

Only difference is a MagPul RVG (non-PTS) near the end of the rail instead of the KAC.

[DRAGON64]

Well, well, well.

Look-ee here:

 

 

 

Only difference is a MagPul RVG (non-PTS) near the end of the rail instead of the KAC.

 

More importantly, is the sling mount at the buffer tube...I would love to know what was changed to make that addition...

[Kai_Wolf]

Awsome! Good to see they finally released a CQB model.

[dotty3107]

Hi everybody, I've just received my KJW M4. It's awesome!! Real beauty

 

Here's a picture:

 

 

Magpul PTS Handguard

Magpul PTS Stock

Magpul PTS Pistol Grip

Magpul MBUS Rear Sight

Magpul PTS Polimer Rail Section with XT Panels (one long below handguard and two short on every side)

Chinese Aimpoint Clone

 

Tomorrow is a shooting day!! I'm so excited about that I will need some parts from t_hum, off course, to upgrade my baby. But let's see first what it can perform with stock components.

Edited May 13, 2010 by dotty3107

[Raven1]

About time the CQB model has been released. If you all remember both rifles were being tested at the same time. The carbine length was released first and the CQB was supposed to be released shortly after. Better late than Never I suppose! Good news for us is we will be able to get a hold of Clare and order some CQB Length barrels and Rawk On Baby!

[cent101]

That's great news that they are supporting the platform with more options! I guess the logical next step would be a full lenght version. I hope they consider either a Canadian C7A2 styled sliding stock full lenghter, plain-jane M16a2 OR a USMC m16a4 with full lenght rail. And of-course a M16a1.

[poopstania]

Well, I sure do love this platform, but I had to give in to reason and order an AEG as a back-up.

 

See, my KJW only gets like 10 shots per fill, even when it's around 90F outside. I guess it's the mag or something -- I don't have another one to test -- but still, it makes skirmishing difficult when you have to recharge so frequently.

 

Any suggestions, other than using a different mag?

 

ETA: I also put a plastic shim in the lip, as suggested in one place. No difference. The knocker valve is sometimes sluggish, but often not, while the efficiency is ALWAYS below half a mag.

Edited May 13, 2010 by poopstania