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My gun is fixed.

 

The problem: my stupidity.

 

I had been charging the gas with the canister under the mag. It never filled up all the way.

 

Guess who feels like an idiot?

 

In other news, my piston cup is finally falling apart, so I'll get the o-ring piston soon.

 

Also, the increased recoil is causing my LaRue to wobble -- the QD sockets walk out, and this makes the platform unstable. Looks like I need a new front set soon as well...

 

EDIT: Dagum, once again. In trying to remove the La Rue barrel nut, one of the tabs on the front of the upper broke. About 90 degrees of the circle snapped off. Looks like I've got more expenditures in my future...

Edited by poopstania
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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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I just recieved my m4 form ehobby asia, it came with an orange flash hider has anyone else experienced this? I'm trying to remove it, but it doesn't look like there is a small hex screw holding it in, there are holes on the top and bottom of the flash hider but if you look into you can just see bare thread, i'm assuming they glued it on, does anyone have any success in with removing this? Someone suggested that they dip it in boiling water, does that work?

Edited by alex chang
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I just recieved my m4 form ehobby asia, it came with an orange flash hider has anyone else experienced this? I'm trying to remove it, but it doesn't look like there is a small hex screw holding it in, there are holes on the top and bottom of the flash hider but if you look into you can just see bare thread, i'm assuming they glued it on, does anyone have any success in with removing this? Someone suggested that they dip it in boiling water, does that work?

 

Yeap. It will work :P

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Inner barrel vibration alert!

I used to do the same thing with my WE. Now with my new CQB KJ, with the longer L119A1 outer barrel I just wrapped some teflon tape around the madbull inner so it sits tight in the middle of the outer barrel. I placed the tape just before the extension piece joint. The extension piece in this particular outer barrel seems to be pretty close to the madbull inner barrel diameter, so no additional tape was needed further on.

 

@ Lupus78 Did you have any trouble installing the MIAD grip? On my KJ M4 the selector detent spring comes out at 45 degrees from the receiver, whilst the MIAD grips appears to be designed for it to drop straight down.

Actually it's the Magpul PTS MOE grip, not the modular MIAD grip. On mine the grip pushes the spring inside the receiver hole completely. And the grip sits real tight. Seems to work just fine and the selector feels pretty good. And no modifications were needed. In WE M4 I needed to drill a hole for the spring, since it was situated on different spot and was too long/tight to be pushed completely into the receiver hole.

 

EDIT: Another question... Does the grips for WA fit for KJ (with or without mods)? I've been trying to find a proper grip for the L119A1 setup, and the Lone Star Ordnance stowaway grip that should be the proper one is near impossible to find. The G&P Storm grip looks pretty identical.

Edited by Lupus78
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If installed properly, front ends will stay as they should. Just as the gun will shoot more than 8 rounds if you fill the mag properly *wink wink* to poopstania :P

 

G&P rails will fit or could be made to fit. Do note that you may or may not need a different end cap for the handguard system you're using. A free float rail will attach without a hitch (provided that you have spacers/shims) to be able to properly tighten and line up the rail.

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Haha, the rail is not my fault. This time.

 

I tightened everything so much that I had to put it in a vice to get enough torque to remove it. The QD sockets just fall out, making the RIS wobble. Other people who have used the ACM La Rue have had wobble problems -- on AEGs. So it's definitely not a sturdy system -- despite it seeming to be fine with the hundred or so rounds I initially put through it.

 

If the sockets stay put (super glue or something) it would work fine.

 

 

 

Question: One of the front tabs of my upper finally broke -- about 90 degrees of the circle came off. Is this not a big deal? Should I avoid firing it? Can I use some adhesive or solder it back on?

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Shouldnt be a major issue. Only recommendation I can make for people is to be careful about torquing down barrel nuts and such with the upper receiver on the lower. If you crank on that thing or screw around with the upper while the rear pin is out you can put a lot of leverage accidentaly on the front pivot area.

 

Keep shootin....

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Thanks for the information. I'll definitely avoid over-torquing it next time.

 

 

 

Like I said, if installed properly rails should hold. Not everything fits perfectly so you'll have to make adjustments. :P

 

P.S.

 

Do not use super glue :P If you're using super glue to make things work...you're doing it wrong ;)

 

There is however such a thing called Loctite which prevent screws from getting loose.

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The o-ring piston was made because the regular piston cup tends to rip/tear after prolonged use with green gas. A torn/ripped piston cup would slowly wear down the loading nozzle/bolt cylinder edge.

 

I'm running duster gas (152a/ 134a) on my new one for now as I am spitting out .25g BBs at a max velocity of 350. Blowback is pretty lame IMO but it cycles.

 

Blowback is lame with HFC134? Inquiring minds want to know...

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Blowback is lame with HFC134? Inquiring minds want to know...

 

It is not THAT bad.

 

I'm just used to having it kick harder as my other KJW has a heavier weight bolt carrier group due to the added weight from the Cradle O-Ring piston and Cradle Bolt Carrier Extension.

 

Like I said, the gun cycles perfectly fine with duster gas at 70 degrees. It locks back 100% of the time as it should. Kick reminds me of a TM M9 using duster gas. Its snappy...

 

I may put up a video of a 30rd mag dump using duster gas(and possibly a 38rd mag dump) on full auto. I may also put up a video of a 30rd mag dump using propane on full auto (and possibly a 38rd mag dump). It all depends on whether or not I feel like making the video. :P

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Like I said, if installed properly rails should hold. Not everything fits perfectly so you'll have to make adjustments. :P

 

P.S.

 

Do not use super glue :P If you're using super glue to make things work...you're doing it wrong ;)

 

There is however such a thing called Loctite which prevent screws from getting loose.

 

No, I installed the rail properly. What I'm talking about is this:

 

Regular socket:

 

CIMG9079.jpg

 

Socket after recoil:

 

CIMG9080.jpg

 

When there is recoil, or just excess pressure in one direction, the sockets slide out.

 

When the sockets slide out, the pins on the barrel nut wobble -- the sockets also apply friction onto those pins.

 

I know about loctite, but these are not threaded in -- merely friction fit. Superglue would help keep them in there, as they are never meant to be removed or adjusted.

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You could cover that up with a rail panel.

 

Typically, super glue is not good for applications where the materials are subjected to shock. Other adhesives hold better (like rubber cement).

 

I would just get a higher quality rail...Rails are supposed to be solid :)

 

Goodluck poopstania :P

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The problem is that if it isn't completely in, there is wobble up and down.

 

Yeah, I'm definitely getting a new rail. The rails are also out of spec.

 

I want a URX, but I don't know if I can trust the ACM one... And the G&P is as much as a real Troy TRX rail...

 

My conclusion: Just ordered a Troy TRX Extreme 11" in FDE.

 

trxmain.jpg

Edited by poopstania
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About the recoil I'd say that the WE M4 has more powerful felt kick to the shoulder, but the KJ is definitely louder and feels also "snappier", which I actually prefer. Both were fired with Green Gas when I compared them side by side. Especially with CO2 the WE really has a sharp and powerful recoil, but I'm actually not gonna miss that. There was always the nagging feeling that something is going to break really soon. I have never tried duster in these guns, and most likely not going to. Also the smooth action of the bolt seems really nice in KJ. In WE there was always kinda metal scraping metal sound, because of the inner brass tube.

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KJWM4GBB1.jpg

Sorry it's rather dark...

 

DSCF0017.jpg

I decided to take off the EASY-MAG holder because I'm afraid that it'll be too abrasive, and break the front pin mounts... plus it was cutting into the paintjob! :flamed:

DSCF0008.jpg

 

Also I had to tighten up the buffer tube, there was a slight wobble to it. Other then that it is rock solid now :D

 

 

(EDIT) Whomever was wondering if the sling mount would work on the other models... it's a yes. It's a drop on piece to replace the original back plate. As for a part number.... my manual is only M4 Specific. Doesn't go into multiple models.

Edited by stickyittoyou
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How long does it typically take for KJ to answer the parts quote you've sent to them? Do they still sell parts? I sent an email according to the instructions given here at Arnies, hoping for an answer.

 

It seems a bit odd that none of the shops are selling any spare parts, especially the most essential ones (belt, hopup rubber, bolt stops, etc).

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I purchased some spare parts a week ago. Had no problem at all. Sometimes it takes a couple of days before Clare sends you a quote.

 

I don't get it why well known airsoft shops don't sell any replacement parts.

 

Little update on my KJ M4 - I installed t_hum's carrier extension and 363mm TBB yesterday. Had no time for testing since was getting dark. However, I'll try some shooting today to see how it's gonna perform.

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Nice! My Elcan SpecterDR replica has arrived, in addition to some extra mags...

 

Interesting to see if it's adjustments work. Nice crosshair with illuminated center. Paintjob not very good; a bit chinese looks, but if not examined close it's pretty good looking and hefty piece of glass and metal. Since the adjustments are mechanical, outside the lenses, it could actually be pretty durable (I hope). Eye relief nice ~10cm from lens.

 

elcan_specter_dr.jpg

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