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Hmmm, cant edit my last post.

 

Installed the part and range of motion is certainly better. However, the standard adjustment mech is a little silly only having six steps like you guys mentioned before. Im going to make another part for this assembly that allows for infinite adjustment. Ill post pics of the new mechanism soon.

 

T

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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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Hmmm, cant edit my last post.

 

Installed the part and range of motion is certainly better. However, the standard adjustment mech is a little silly only having six steps like you guys mentioned before. Im going to make another part for this assembly that allows for infinite adjustment. Ill post pics of the new mechanism soon.

 

T

 

Want so bad! It's a little soon T, but would you know if these will be available

for purchase before the end of September? I would love to use it

for a big OP I'm going to in October.

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@ t_hum the new hop wheel with infinite adjustment I take it your planning a ramp round the wheel rather than clicky steps? Would there not be a danger of the hop wheel moving due to vibration?

 

Also is the revised arm Wider than stock to eliminate side to side play in the same way the heat shrink mod does?

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@ t_hum the new hop wheel with infinite adjustment I take it your planning a ramp round the wheel rather than clicky steps? Would there not be a danger of the hop wheel moving due to vibration?

 

Also is the revised arm Wider than stock to eliminate side to side play in the same way the heat shrink mod does?

 

I would assume It's more like a screw design..But that's just me...

 

 

After doing the heat shrink mod I can actually overhop .40's!

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Just so everyone knows, if you wanted to order a "complete upper" from KJW part by part, not including a piston and some small scews, you are looking at around $200 for a metal upper. about $75 of that is the part #1. When you get to that point, buying a backup gun and having it for parts and another upper would be a good idea.

 

For example, I plan to grab a 2nd entire gun to turn into a DMR setup And just take both uppers and lowers to games. This way, if there is ever a problem I can simply run back to staging and grab either an entire gun or a lower or upper..

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Hello

 

I have a big problem with my hop up ... ;/

The bb's arent go up (0.25)

I saw the little help on page 138 but it doesnt help ... :(

I wrap aroung a lot of tape on hop up arm but it helps only a little. The M4 of my friend who bought the gun in order with me - shoot very well and dont have any problem with hopping the bb's

wtf?

 

 

 

PS. Sorry for my english. I'm Polish

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I'm using a screw driven design rather than a wheel. Like mentioned the wheel would need steps to not come loose which defies the point of this part in the first place.

 

It's a tad wider, yes. The wobble isn't so much from that though. It's the way the hop arm sits inside the retaining bracket. Ita not supported well enough to be rock solid.

Edited by t_hum
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I cant understand why my hop up doesnt work because when i use tape, the hop up stand out more in the barrel but the bb's are hopping much worst them the hop up in my friend's M4 KJW. With tape is a little better then i have stock, but it still bad (first i have 25m on 0.25, now i have something about 30-35m on 0.25 and my friend in stock has about 50m ... )

Edited by Władek
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This hop issue gets more and more interesting. My gun never had a hop problem. Some peoples have. The real question we need to figure out is why. I know the hop arm mod works for some people but I have a hard time believing the hop arms are so off from the same mold to produce such a variety of results. Im much more inclined to believe there is an assembly problem that is occuring at the factory.

 

If you have a hop issue I was hoping you could answer the following questions:

 

1. Was the spring underneath the hop arm seated correctly?

2. Do you have the set screw in your barrel (the one that holds the hop assembly/inner barrel into the outer barrel) tightened down or not?

3. Does your hop arm move freely if you move it by hand?

 

One thing Ive noticed is this: When I remove the wheel and depress the arm by hand and get it in the 100% ON position the arm is free to move forwards and back about .125" in either direction. I can see the hop rubber open up and close slightly as I move the arm this way. Im not sure if this is part of the problem but I think gather as much of this type of observation as possible will help diagnose the problem.

 

Id love to make a part that solves this but in reality Id rather not charge you all for something you dont need. Lets give this fix a shot the old fashioned way first...

Edited by t_hum
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If you have a hop issue I was hoping you could answer the following questions:

 

1. Was the spring underneath the hop arm seated correctly?

2. Do you have the set screw in your barrel (the one that holds the hop assembly/inner barrel into the outer barrel) tightened down or not?

3. Does your hop arm move freely if you move it by hand?

 

 

1. Yes

2. Tightened down

3. Yes

 

Shrink wrap mod didn't completely solve my hop up issues. It was better, but I couldn't get any weight to arc up. What I ended up doing was wedge a piece of thin plastic between the bucking and arm. With that, I got fliers with .30s on the 4th click. It's a pain in the *albatross* though, because I have to reseat the plastic everytime I take apart the rifle. However, that's what your new hop up arm is for :D.

 

Id love to make a part that solves this but in reality Id rather not charge you all for something you dont need. Lets give this fix a shot the old fashioned way first...

 

T, does that mean youre not going to be selling a new hop arm?

Edited by PapayaSalad
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One thing Ive noticed with the hop issue is the upper receiver itself. My old metal upper, when installed, gave me no issues of hop up at all. I could sail anything from a .20 to a .28 straight so long as it was dialed in correctly. I have a replacement upper since mine broke and now I am forced to use the hop up mod with shrink wrap and the bb's ALWAYS overhop, even with .28's. I suspect it is beacuse I am using a thicker shrink wrap. The new upper has no hop without the mod on any setting. It may be the casting of the upper that is the culprit.

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1. Yes - with the spring being on the wheel side of the fulcrum point it only gives the clickyness not any more / less hop?

2. Tightened to secure inner.

3. Yes tried before assembly to see if I could see the hop move.

 

As for the forward / backward movement of the arm how is that possible? There is a groove for the arm fulcrum to rest in on the reciever and on the part that holds the arm in. Also how would it work the pin catches the notches in the wheel but these are no further forward one to the next. I have access to a friends rifle that didn't need the mod and mine that did I can see if he'll let me strip it to compare the two.

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Has anyone else tried attaching any other sling adapters onto these guys?

I'm interested in the Magpul ASAP. Has anyone tried it yet?

 

I had my lower receiver machined to accept a MilSpec buffer tube so that it will accept ANY stock end plate.

 

Of course I did it specifically to utilize the Magpul A.S.A.P Plate and it works great.

 

How Ever - The KJW M4 in it's stock form from the factory is physically incapable of using WA Spec Stock End Plates,,,

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