t_hum Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Hmmm, cant edit my last post. Installed the part and range of motion is certainly better. However, the standard adjustment mech is a little silly only having six steps like you guys mentioned before. Im going to make another part for this assembly that allows for infinite adjustment. Ill post pics of the new mechanism soon. T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapayaSalad Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Hmmm, cant edit my last post. Installed the part and range of motion is certainly better. However, the standard adjustment mech is a little silly only having six steps like you guys mentioned before. Im going to make another part for this assembly that allows for infinite adjustment. Ill post pics of the new mechanism soon. T Want so bad! It's a little soon T, but would you know if these will be available for purchase before the end of September? I would love to use it for a big OP I'm going to in October. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 the last time i chrono my first shot was 390 then it went all the way down to 330. 5 shots a second apart. anyone else noticed this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 @ t_hum the new hop wheel with infinite adjustment I take it your planning a ramp round the wheel rather than clicky steps? Would there not be a danger of the hop wheel moving due to vibration? Also is the revised arm Wider than stock to eliminate side to side play in the same way the heat shrink mod does? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew12 Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 @ t_hum the new hop wheel with infinite adjustment I take it your planning a ramp round the wheel rather than clicky steps? Would there not be a danger of the hop wheel moving due to vibration? Also is the revised arm Wider than stock to eliminate side to side play in the same way the heat shrink mod does? I would assume It's more like a screw design..But that's just me... After doing the heat shrink mod I can actually overhop .40's! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 By ramp I ment a spiral ramp running round the wheel, basically like the stock wheel with a smooth hight transition all the way round. Is that the same as you mean by screw design mate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cjboi Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 do you guys know if MAGPUL grips fit on these kjw m4 gbb? and which one does? thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew12 Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Just so everyone knows, if you wanted to order a "complete upper" from KJW part by part, not including a piston and some small scews, you are looking at around $200 for a metal upper. about $75 of that is the part #1. When you get to that point, buying a backup gun and having it for parts and another upper would be a good idea. For example, I plan to grab a 2nd entire gun to turn into a DMR setup And just take both uppers and lowers to games. This way, if there is ever a problem I can simply run back to staging and grab either an entire gun or a lower or upper.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 do you guys know if MAGPUL grips fit on these kjw m4 gbb? and which one does? thanks The ones for the WA/WE GBBR's fit if you use the original cap screw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Władek Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Hello I have a big problem with my hop up ... ;/ The bb's arent go up (0.25) I saw the little help on page 138 but it doesnt help ... I wrap aroung a lot of tape on hop up arm but it helps only a little. The M4 of my friend who bought the gun in order with me - shoot very well and dont have any problem with hopping the bb's wtf? PS. Sorry for my english. I'm Polish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) I'm using a screw driven design rather than a wheel. Like mentioned the wheel would need steps to not come loose which defies the point of this part in the first place. It's a tad wider, yes. The wobble isn't so much from that though. It's the way the hop arm sits inside the retaining bracket. Ita not supported well enough to be rock solid. Edited September 18, 2010 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Wladek have you maybe used a little too much tape and the arm isn't being allowed to move properly? You can check the movement of the arm during assembly before you put the barrel back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Władek Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) I cant understand why my hop up doesnt work because when i use tape, the hop up stand out more in the barrel but the bb's are hopping much worst them the hop up in my friend's M4 KJW. With tape is a little better then i have stock, but it still bad (first i have 25m on 0.25, now i have something about 30-35m on 0.25 and my friend in stock has about 50m ... ) Edited September 18, 2010 by Władek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Is your hop rubber clean and dry? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) This hop issue gets more and more interesting. My gun never had a hop problem. Some peoples have. The real question we need to figure out is why. I know the hop arm mod works for some people but I have a hard time believing the hop arms are so off from the same mold to produce such a variety of results. Im much more inclined to believe there is an assembly problem that is occuring at the factory. If you have a hop issue I was hoping you could answer the following questions: 1. Was the spring underneath the hop arm seated correctly? 2. Do you have the set screw in your barrel (the one that holds the hop assembly/inner barrel into the outer barrel) tightened down or not? 3. Does your hop arm move freely if you move it by hand? One thing Ive noticed is this: When I remove the wheel and depress the arm by hand and get it in the 100% ON position the arm is free to move forwards and back about .125" in either direction. I can see the hop rubber open up and close slightly as I move the arm this way. Im not sure if this is part of the problem but I think gather as much of this type of observation as possible will help diagnose the problem. Id love to make a part that solves this but in reality Id rather not charge you all for something you dont need. Lets give this fix a shot the old fashioned way first... Edited September 18, 2010 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Having said all that... Just tested the new hop arm with the regular adjustment wheel. I can make .20's fly nearly straight up at about 40 feet. Need to grab some .28s... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapayaSalad Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) If you have a hop issue I was hoping you could answer the following questions: 1. Was the spring underneath the hop arm seated correctly? 2. Do you have the set screw in your barrel (the one that holds the hop assembly/inner barrel into the outer barrel) tightened down or not? 3. Does your hop arm move freely if you move it by hand? 1. Yes 2. Tightened down 3. Yes Shrink wrap mod didn't completely solve my hop up issues. It was better, but I couldn't get any weight to arc up. What I ended up doing was wedge a piece of thin plastic between the bucking and arm. With that, I got fliers with .30s on the 4th click. It's a pain in the *albatross* though, because I have to reseat the plastic everytime I take apart the rifle. However, that's what your new hop up arm is for . Id love to make a part that solves this but in reality Id rather not charge you all for something you dont need. Lets give this fix a shot the old fashioned way first... T, does that mean youre not going to be selling a new hop arm? Edited September 18, 2010 by PapayaSalad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 No, Ill be selling it. Just wished I knew the real problem behind the need for a solution is all. The arms will be tested by the beta testers this week. After which theyll go into production. Likely laser cut steel. Price TBD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 One thing Ive noticed with the hop issue is the upper receiver itself. My old metal upper, when installed, gave me no issues of hop up at all. I could sail anything from a .20 to a .28 straight so long as it was dialed in correctly. I have a replacement upper since mine broke and now I am forced to use the hop up mod with shrink wrap and the bb's ALWAYS overhop, even with .28's. I suspect it is beacuse I am using a thicker shrink wrap. The new upper has no hop without the mod on any setting. It may be the casting of the upper that is the culprit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Władek Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 @weekenny First of things that i think about - was about dirty hop up so i clean it but it doesnt help @t_hum 1. yes 2. Tightened down 3. yes I will try to put more tape or maybe make something to make hop more out in the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 1. Yes - with the spring being on the wheel side of the fulcrum point it only gives the clickyness not any more / less hop? 2. Tightened to secure inner. 3. Yes tried before assembly to see if I could see the hop move. As for the forward / backward movement of the arm how is that possible? There is a groove for the arm fulcrum to rest in on the reciever and on the part that holds the arm in. Also how would it work the pin catches the notches in the wheel but these are no further forward one to the next. I have access to a friends rifle that didn't need the mod and mine that did I can see if he'll let me strip it to compare the two. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shadow_Ocelot Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Has anyone else tried attaching any other sling adapters onto these guys? I'm interested in the Magpul ASAP. Has anyone tried it yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Has anyone else tried attaching any other sling adapters onto these guys? I'm interested in the Magpul ASAP. Has anyone tried it yet? Raven did it didn't fit the std buffer tube setup but I think he came up with a fix check his posts in this topic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bleaumaglite Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Finally encountered a problem with my KJW. After about 3000 rounds, my rubber band broke. So now I'm sifting through the thread trying to find the guide on how to make the replacement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raven1 Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 Has anyone else tried attaching any other sling adapters onto these guys? I'm interested in the Magpul ASAP. Has anyone tried it yet? I had my lower receiver machined to accept a MilSpec buffer tube so that it will accept ANY stock end plate. Of course I did it specifically to utilize the Magpul A.S.A.P Plate and it works great. How Ever - The KJW M4 in it's stock form from the factory is physically incapable of using WA Spec Stock End Plates,,, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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