delarosa Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Yes, speed loaders, by hand. Whatever works for you. We are designing a system not unlike some pistol magazines that allow you to depress the follower by hand (only our system is slicker). It also makes the feed lips simpler to machine which has been an area of much frustration. OMG cant wait! Now Im restless! Hope I can get in the first list to get those. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WTF?Shane Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Looking for tips how to clean KJ mags. Had a game this past weekend and did some sweet rolls in the sand, now all my mags are gunked up. You can feel a lot of resistance on the spring as they load. I want to clean and lube them. Should I take them apart or is there a way to do it with out total dissasembly? Thanks There's 2 ways. Release the pressure in the mag and remove the base with the allen head screw. The bb tray should come out along with the follower and spring. Or you can take it apart from the top by knocking out 2 pins and removing the upper portion of the magazine. A little more work as some other parts will come out with it as well. Edited March 15, 2011 by WTF?Shane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
<<M3M3NTO>> Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 hello, i am new here so i have some questions. i own PTW so i decided to sell it because i love more reality in guns.. so i was interested with this gun GBB KJ so i dont have time to read all 181 pages for that sorry... so can any one tell me does this gun worth it to buy... ? where can i buy full tunned on Ra tech??? thx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Hands down the most reliable and consistant gbbr.....in the world. Don't bother ra tech. Buy the cradle parts and install yourself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 hello, i am new here so i have some questions. i own PTW so i decided to sell it because i love more reality in guns.. so i was interested with this gun GBB KJ so i dont have time to read all 181 pages for that sorry... so can any one tell me does this gun worth it to buy... ? where can i buy full tunned on Ra tech??? thx Well, when you're asking the guys over at the KJW M4 forum, most likely the answer will be yes. But the good news is, thats a fact. Not because I say and I feel the KJW M4 is the most reliable, in fact most people here know it is. - The KJW M4 has gone through rigorous testing(Raven1's KJW M4 that is) and despite some broken parts, its still shoots! - The most accurate GBBR out of the box (summarizing what I read on reviews and on forums). - Mags dont leak - Require minimal upgrades - Compatible with AEG parts If you're looking for a GBBR that is skirmish-able out of the box, with minimal hassle, great performance, accuracy as well as durability, I say go buy one now. You wont regret it. And get the cradle airsoft parts like piston and carrier extension to extend the durability of your KJW M4. You can also get the NPAS if you want lower FPS. Forget RATech, there will be new exciting stuffs to come out from cradle airsoft Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 KJW M4 with Cradle parts = WIN I used to have the WE M4A1. And I've never looked back after switching to KJW. KJW hasn't got the most powerful blowback, but everything mentioned above is true. KJW M4 is hands down the best GBB rifle out of the box, and after Cradle upgrades even better. I've actually had a lot more problems with my AEG's, than with my KJW (none yet). Currently I don't even own a single AEG. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Likewise, I sold all my AEG's. My KJW is still up and running. Cradle Airsoft parts plus the well designed KJW Gbbr = great time.! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) sorry for double post Edited March 15, 2011 by Kai_Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alex chang Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 i can't seem to keep lube in the piston. I'll lube it up with super lube and by the end of the day, the gun is shooting dry and sluggish, i've tried other o ring safe lubes and still no dice. I'm not shooting a ridiculous amount i'm talking about maybe shooting through 10 mags throughout the day, none on full auto. I am using propane and using adding lube to the propane each fill for each mag. I'm using the cradle piston and velocity reducer. Is anyone experiencing these problems? it just recently started happening. I did switch out the x o ring on the piston, cleaned and lubed everything. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sandstorm Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Sounds like you're using too light lube. The expert opinion suggests using RC shock grease (as in grease, not light oil) for lubrication Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 What brand propane are you using and what type of oil are you adding to the propane? Also, how are you applying the grease to the piston cup? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Would the Madbull grease work as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alex chang Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I'm using coleman propane, and adding about 5-6 drops of airsoft innovations gbb oil. I use apply super lube to the piston cup and to the oring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Whats the ambient temp? Are you noticing a lot of gas venting from the barrel and/or ejection port? Extreme cold can eventually break down lubricants. If you are getting a large amount of liquid propane into the piston cup you can potentially destroy all lubrication. The stock piston lids are polyurethane and are likely rated down to -20 deg F which is why they become brittle and crack. The x-rings I use are rated down to -60 F and the propane generates temps near -40 F as it converts from liquid to gas. Super Lube is good to -45 F. Perhaps the margin is too tight for the lube. I run my gun in the shop on HPA and can run it all day long without a drop of lube. My hunch is that it has everything to do with temps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Can't remember if I said this or not, but my hop-up issues was due to an incredibly greasy hop-up rubber, cleaned it out and everything worked like a charm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DesertFox Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Can't remember if I said this or not, but my hop-up issues was due to an incredibly greasy hop-up rubber, cleaned it out and everything worked like a charm. Which furthers my suspicion that this gun absolutely hates green gas. There's just too much lube in the propellant that causes hop-up and accuracy issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I think it may be, I've been running propane through it, hand lubing it with RC Car shock oil (very high grade silicon lubricant), and have not had the problem return. However I'm having some hop-up mods done to it as I do not like the current step based adjustment system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GI Tye Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 i can't seem to keep lube in the piston. I'll lube it up with super lube and by the end of the day, the gun is shooting dry and sluggish, i've tried other o ring safe lubes and still no dice. I'm not shooting a ridiculous amount i'm talking about maybe shooting through 10 mags throughout the day, none on full auto. I am using propane and using adding lube to the propane each fill for each mag. I'm using the cradle piston and velocity reducer. Is anyone experiencing these problems? it just recently started happening. I did switch out the x o ring on the piston, cleaned and lubed everything. I have been using super lube myself and have been experiencing the same concern. By the time I am done shooting for a day, there is no lube to be found. I personally have felt that I was lubing the piston quite heavily myself. I too have been shooting in below 40 degree F temperatures. Perhaps someone should post a video about the propper way to lube your KJW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 If your conditions are making the Super Lube not do its job you may want to try another product known as DOW 33 or Molykote 33. Its very commonly used in paintball guns and other low temp industrial applications. You can find it an a number of sources but many paintball shops and retailers carry it under various brand names. It is rated to -100 F and will resist breaking down from the propane more quickly. You should be able to find 2-5 oz. containers from $5-$15. You should lube your piston and cup before each outing. If you have problems throughout the day you may wish to switch to the DOW 33. If you're making it through no problems Id stick to your current method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mister Miles Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 My KJW seems to keep locking up in full auto and I'll have to re-cycle it. Any solutions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KAG Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Hello all Tanio Koba/KJW owners. I´m planning on taking my rifle out on a winter-game today. It is totally stock (atleast on the inside ). The weather report say it´s going to be about 5 degres C (40 F). My pistoncup and cylinder is lubed with Systema silicon grease (the one usually used in AEG cylinders). Will it work as it should (with less FPS) or will it encrease the risk of damage? I´m only using semi so I don`t care if auto is slow and sluggish. I can`t decide if I should leave it at home and go with an AEG instead. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Take your AEG as a backup but if you shoot mostly semi and take your time it will be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KAG Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 OK, will do. Thanks for the fast reply . I will come back with a report later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Hi guys, I was wondering, since Im quite new ini this gas setup, whats the difference in using propane and green gas? What I read from this thread its the dryness in propane vs silicon in green gas, is this true? Whats the advantage and disadvantage in both? I live in a country which is around 36-38C under sunlight, is it better to use propane? Does propane gives more FPS than GG? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Propane and gg are the same chemically. The difference is that propane is dry and smells like a fat chicks crotch and green gas has silicone oil and a much nicer aroma. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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