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Hi, CJ here, teammate of Fadz and Panteratigris.

Regarding the broken buffertube of Fadz, what if we use real AR or WA/WE buffertube.

 

How? two ways:

1. re-thread the lower reciever in able to accept the real AR or WA/WE Buffertube

OR

2. re-thread the AR/WA/WE buffertube itself to match the existing thread of lower reciever.

 

I think the option 2 is better, buffertube is much easier to re-thread, cheaper to modify and widely available.. I think this will work.

 

That way:

- no need for the inner brass buffer tube

- possibly stronger

- no more hassle in installing magpul ASAP sling.

- more realistic

 

What do you think T-hum?

 

Thanks!

Edited by Cj Radge
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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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Id have a hard time giving the idea a solid "yes" until I get out some measuring equipment and some reference material on the two types of threads involved. It is possible that the coarse threads from the real/WA/WE buffer tubes have a minor diameter greater than that of the major diameter of the small metric threads found on the KJW receiver.

 

Overall I like the idea. Ill get out some tools soon and see what I come up with.

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as requested, here is the pic of the broken receiver extension...part no. 50...

 

I used steel epoxy to repair it and seems to be holding well...ugly...but it works...will try to dremel the rough look while waiting for new parts to arrive. ...

 

BrokenReceiverExtension.jpg

 

 

WOW...THAT'S A FIRST....i can recall that a player (raven1) if i'm not wrong did the rethread on the lower to accept real steel buffer tube....

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Uppers are about $120 IIRC. You probably wont be able to get your hands on one if you are in the USA. However, PM Raven1 as I think he might have one to sell. Also, I can do the hop mod on the plastic uppers as well if that matters.

 

thanks man what would the cost of this mod on my plastic upper be?

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My KJW arrives in August. Can't wait!

 

Does anyone have experience with attaching a fixed stock to it?

 

I've seen a french site that has the gbb with a fixed stock and a youtube video of the gun being shot but nothing else on the subject.

 

Mr CJ Radge and myself are looking to turn our KJWs into Mk12s

 

For the meantime, I am going to transfer everything I can from my VFC Mk18 Mod 1 GBB over to my KJW.

 

Thanks!

Edited by freon
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Just a reminder to everyone that may want a TDC mod. We are only accepting receivers from customers INSIDE THE USA. This is to avoid customs problems.

fine i will keep my money u greedy yankee.... u americans always think ur soooo much better. keep ur nukes and ur tdc mods its ok... us foreigners dont need those special mods, cuz we dont start wars every 2 seconds.

 

oh BTW, the TDC mod makes the KJW perfectttttttttttt.

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fine i will keep my money u greedy yankee.... u americans always think ur soooo much better. keep ur nukes and ur tdc mods its ok... us foreigners dont need those special mods, cuz we dont start wars every 2 seconds.

 

oh BTW, the TDC mod makes the KJW perfectttttttttttt.

 

LOL....AND YES!!!...IT'S A BLAST OF A MOD....

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While its true that its all drilling/tapping/counterboring along the same axis we actually use a mill for this. The most critical part of the whole operation is getting the hole dead center (we are typically within .002-.003" on center) because of the path of the drill. The hole actually passes through the gas tube recess on the front of the receiver and the ribs that support the gas tube can deflect the drill if not on center. On really tough receivers where the ribs are cast a little off center we use an end mill to flatten off the bottom rib between drilling cycles.

 

Yes, you can do it on a drill press but be sure to be as accurate as possible on location. Also, standard length hand taps wont tap through the receiver if you dont counterbore the top of the hole prior to tapping. Of course the other option is to find an extended length and/or undercut shank tap.

Edited by t_hum
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Good morning Gentlemen,

 

Been a lurker around the threads here for a while, but haven't posted until now. I wanted to run an issue I had this weekend w/ my KJW M4 past you, to see if any of you have ever experienced this issue, and if not, maybe I can get a consensus on how the internals that I believe to be the issue are in everyone elses guns:

 

As I was chronoing for an Op on Saturday morning I cycled the gun a few times as normal, when all of a sudden, the gun stopped working. When I opened the gun up, there was no apparent reason for the stoppage. No jams, no chopped bb's, etc. I could pull the trigger, but only when I shifted the selector switch slightly forward of Semi. It would not rotate to Safe, and would only rotate to Full if I adjusted the Hammer Catch (part # 42) slightly. I took the gun back to the car, to compare it w/ my teammates to see if I could find an obvious difference between his working gun, and mine... Here was my discovery based on the comparison...

 

 

 

KJWDiagM4.jpg

 

 

 

My M4 - The arm on Part #57 was behind the Selector Switch, causing the two small forks at the top of the piece to be angled up

 

Teammates M4 - The arm on Part #57 was in front of the Selector Switch, causing the forks on top of the piece to be pointed towards the rear of the gun

 

I don't have an image of my setup, or I would post it here for all of you to see. I mistakenly allowed one of my teammates to "attempt" to remove the pin holding in the parts so that we could rotate the arm into the forward position to try and fix the gun. WORD TO THE WISE: DO NOT try to knock pin # 62 towards the right side of the lower. Because it is grooved on the left hand side, it sucked spring # 76 into the collar with it, and essentially snapped the pin off at the groove, rendering my gun useless until I get replacement parts from KJW (cross your fingers that I'll be able to obtain them). Otherwise, I'm looking at buying another gun …

 

 

What I would ask of you all is to look at your lowers, and tell me how your part is oriented, and if possible, post pictures so that I can see what needs to be done when I get the replacement parts…

 

 

Thanks in advance for your help! If I can't get the parts, I'll be back here looking for a replacement/parts gun so that I can get my baby back up and running! It sucked using an AEG this weekend!

Edited by Hut73
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hmm it is a bit confusing on how you described the arm of part no.57 on your friends KJ. Because when i looked at mine there is no way that it will be positioned in front of the selector switch. On mine it is behind the selector switch resting on the groove for it if positioned on the full auto. But the horns are pointed rear ward

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Good morning Gentlemen,

 

Been a lurker around the threads here for a while, but haven't posted until now. I wanted to run an issue I had this weekend w/ my KJW M4 past you, to see if any of you have ever experienced this issue, and if not, maybe I can get a consensus on how the internals that I believe to be the issue are in everyone elses guns:

 

As I was chronoing for an Op on Saturday morning I cycled the gun a few times as normal, when all of a sudden, the gun stopped working. When I opened the gun up, there was no apparent reason for the stoppage. No jams, no chopped bb's, etc. I could pull the trigger, but only when I shifted the selector switch slightly forward of Semi. It would not rotate to Safe, and would only rotate to Full if I adjusted the Hammer Catch (part # 42) slightly. I took the gun back to the car, to compare it w/ my teammates to see if I could find an obvious difference between his working gun, and mine... Here was my discovery based on the comparison...

 

 

 

KJWDiagM4.jpg

 

 

 

My M4 - The arm on Part #57 was behind the Selector Switch, causing the two small forks at the top of the piece to be angled up

 

Teammates M4 - The arm on Part #57 was in front of the Selector Switch, causing the forks on top of the piece to be pointed towards the rear of the gun

 

I don't have an image of my setup, or I would post it here for all of you to see. I mistakenly allowed one of my teammates to "attempt" to remove the pin holding in the parts so that we could rotate the arm into the forward position to try and fix the gun. WORD TO THE WISE: DO NOT try to knock pin # 62 towards the right side of the lower. Because it is grooved on the left hand side, it sucked spring # 76 into the collar with it, and essentially snapped the pin off at the groove, rendering my gun useless until I get replacement parts from KJW (cross your fingers that I'll be able to obtain them). Otherwise, I'm looking at buying another gun …

 

 

What I would ask of you all is to look at your lowers, and tell me how your part is oriented, and if possible, post pictures so that I can see what needs to be done when I get the replacement parts…

 

 

Thanks in advance for your help! If I can't get the parts, I'll be back here looking for a replacement/parts gun so that I can get my baby back up and running! It sucked using an AEG this weekend!

 

 

 

OK....my dear friend...i will address to the non rotating fire-safe selector issue...i am sure that you looked really good at your lower receiver trying to find something jamming it right?..but you couldn't find it...OK...the problem is that when that happens(selector jam) the first place you tend to look is your lower, but after no success finding debris from bb's in your lower, is time to look at your bolt group, specifically the cylinder...part #15, because it's almost certain that it has received damage at the point of breakage...check it out...if there's no traces of bb's fragments or dust ...then your cylinder is chipped...and it just needs a little piece( i mean a diminute piece) to jam the selector.

And when that happens it's time for a dissassembly of the lower to unjam it 'cause there's no duster or compressed air that will take it out of the bottom of the selector.

 

I have managed myself to fix this problem on many of my teammates rifles so i'm sure that that's your selector problem.

 

i am working on a pic by pic guide to disassemble the lower to help others fix the selector jam issue...and i will...soon...but indeed you will need a new part 76...if it has been seriously damaged and cant be reshaped....

Edited by slipknot1971
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Thanks for the responses guys! Slipknot, I'll take a look at the bolt tonight to see if there is any visible damage. I do remember looking at the underside of the bolt, but don't remember seeing anything wrong, but I'll inspect the whole thing tonight.

 

On another note, I did touch base w/ the folks @ KJW, and got a response back this morning w/ a quote for the parts that I needed. If it turns out I need another Part #15, I'll add that to the order (perhaps one of the new bolts as well???). Diana Huang was the one who wrote back in case that helps anyone out...

 

Thanks again guys!

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Yes...Diana is the girl who is answering our prayers dude...and yes again...check the cylinder exactly where it is hidden by the metal plate in the bolt carrier...for some reason they tend to hit that and cause the damage...oh...and other thing...rememmber that the only way you can switch the selector is with the rifle cocked, so maybe you can help by seting the hammer in fire position manually before switching the selector...maybe the thing that jammed the rifle could fell off if cylinder is not damaged...maybe not...but...who knows...try everything...cheers!

Edited by slipknot1971
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Slipknot, when I got home, I pulled the BCG out, and NO damage whatsoever... So, I went through the lower again... And guess what I found? It looks as though the o-ring from my Cradle Velocity reducer split, came out of the cylinder, and lodged underneath the trigger workings. Essentially, it was limiting how much travel the trigger group had, preventing me from rotating the selector switch...

 

I NEVER would have seen the o-ring unless, the parts that I removed were out, but I'm still angry that the gun was broken in the process. Glad Diana got back to me so quickly!

 

Thanks again to all of you for your help!

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AWESOME!....and yeah...in the rifles i have unjammed it has always been the broken cylinder...it's like for some reason when he should travel back to the loading position it get missaligned and hits that metal plate in the lower part of the carrier..and obviously it's not a soft hit....but well..in your case...thats a new one...good to know that can happen too...

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Slipknot, when I got home, I pulled the BCG out, and NO damage whatsoever... So, I went through the lower again... And guess what I found? It looks as though the o-ring from my Cradle Velocity reducer split, came out of the cylinder, and lodged underneath the trigger workings. Essentially, it was limiting how much travel the trigger group had, preventing me from rotating the selector switch...

 

I NEVER would have seen the o-ring unless, the parts that I removed were out, but I'm still angry that the gun was broken in the process. Glad Diana got back to me so quickly!

 

Thanks again to all of you for your help!

same exact thing happen to me so dont feel so bad

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Slipknot, make sure it is complete dis-assembly and complete re-assembly....I have a knack of dis-assembling my guns but putting them back together is another thing...

 

My gun got stuck today in the semi position...greased it a bit..but I really feel there is a need to take it down soon...a bb was there...who knows if there are other bits and pieces lying around beyond sight...

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