weekenny Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 got my old upper done today will be testing the TDC mod next weekend Hole runs off a little but not enough that it should make a difference. The arm still stays straight and doesn't kick off to the side so hopefully the BB's wont hook. Need to make sure the next one is more square in the vice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewlaw Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 hi, can someone please tell me how to dissemble the new bolt please? i need to install the cradle reducer. thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Just an update about the reducer compatibility with the V2 bolts. I just dropped one right in with no problem. The new bolts definitely take a lot more work to get apart. And they really copied a lot of the WA design internally which may or may not be a bad thing, I guess time will tell. Ill try to get a video tutorial up on the new procedure in a week or two. We are absolutely beyond swamped with design work right now for a few clients... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewlaw Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 the thing is i could not get the piston cup out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Anyone else's V2 bolt lock back but the nozzle sticks forward?? Mine seems to do this since I reduced the FPS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Anyone else's V2 bolt lock back but the nozzle sticks forward?? Mine seems to do this since I reduced the FPS. The same with mine. But I applied some lubricant and the issue seems reduced. Maybe it needs a bit of sanding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BSAS Tomkins Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Alright guys, questions for the collective pool of knowledge in here. Currently, Kai is building up my M4 for when I get back from deployment, but is having an issue with the RIS. I bought the SOCOM Gear DD 9.5", but apparently it's having some trouble threading onto the barrel nut. Kai said it screws on, but it wobbles. Could wrapping some teflon tape around the threading make it fit a little more snugly and remove that wobble? Also, if that doesn't work, are there any other free-float style rails that will go on with no isses? I'm a really big fan of the free-float system, and would love to have it. That being said, however, I won't mind having to throw an older delta-ring compatible RIS on it. Thanks in advance for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 What wobbles? The barrel nut? The Rail ? Or the barrel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BSAS Tomkins Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 The rail is wobbling. The nut will not screw down tight enough on the KJW thread set to keep the rail from wobbling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PanteraTigris Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I use JP rifle rails. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 It's strange because if its the RIS II, the rail is not held in place by the nut (which just holds the barrel in place). More details here: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1-Daniel-Defense-Lite-Rail-install-guide-and-pictorial-review Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hey guys. It is the nut. This was both on the plastic and on the metal receiver. When I place the DD barrel, bracket, then the nut on the upper, I tighten it down and the nut only goes so far. It tightens down, but the bracket that the rail screws into is not held tight enough to the upper to not wobble. I tried screwing in the rail anyhow and it pops loose, making the unit wobble up and down horrible. I could try using a riser to bridge the two units together. I had a simular problem with the Madbull DD rail on a WE M4 gbbr. I find it strange since the threading on the two are different. The bridging method would most likely work just fine but I couldnt say for sure. A mutual friend of ours has a long riser I recently left to him that may work but I am not sure that reinforcement on the top rail would be enough. Any thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 IIRC (I have installed a DD RIS II before, on a Marui Sopmod) the bracket is suppose to move freely until you use the 6 screws to put the rail into place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freon Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 (edited) Hey guys. It is the nut. This was both on the plastic and on the metal receiver. When I place the DD barrel, bracket, then the nut on the upper, I tighten it down and the nut only goes so far. It tightens down, but the bracket that the rail screws into is not held tight enough to the upper to not wobble. I tried screwing in the rail anyhow and it pops loose, making the unit wobble up and down horrible. I could try using a riser to bridge the two units together. I had a simular problem with the Madbull DD rail on a WE M4 gbbr. I find it strange since the threading on the two are different. The bridging method would most likely work just fine but I couldnt say for sure. A mutual friend of ours has a long riser I recently left to him that may work but I am not sure that reinforcement on the top rail would be enough. Any thoughts? I'm going to be putting the same thing on my KJW. I've already attached the same type of rail to guns twice. One detatching and reattaching from my VFC Mk18 (which will donate it's parts to my KJ) and another G&P kit on an AEG. The nut isn't supposed to hold the bracket steady, it is supposed to be steady once you screw it onto the rail and if it isn't, then there is something wrong. I've also found that a faux gas tube helps stability greatly. If it all fails, I'm going to try putting a bigass washer/spacer in there to tighten it all up. Pictures as I get some work done later tonight. PS. My KJW's arrived fresh and they already had the new bolt installed. pps. PantheraTigris, I've seen your guns... they're fugly. ;-) Quit putting fugly rails on them! Edited August 19, 2011 by freon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fadz Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hey slipknot, finished with your lower receiver takedown guide? I am eagerly waiting for that and t_hum's planned video on the v2 bolt.. I really appreciate the incredible amount of shared wisdom here on the boards. We have a lot of new kj m4 owners this week and these planned diy guides are indispensible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fadz Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hey slipknot, finished with your lower receiver takedown guide? I am eagerly waiting for that and t_hum's planned video on the v2 bolt.. I really appreciate the incredible amount of shared wisdom here on the boards. We have a lot of new kj m4 owners this week and these planned diy guides are indispensible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 I just picked up a V2 bolt as well. The kick is a little harder indeed. I also want to see the video when it comes out. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trustkill Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hey slipknot, finished with your lower receiver takedown guide? I am eagerly waiting for that and t_hum's planned video on the v2 bolt.. I really appreciate the incredible amount of shared wisdom here on the boards. We have a lot of new kj m4 owners this week and these planned diy guides are indispensible. Fadz, What is it that you're having trouble with re-installing/taking out? After my game on the 20th I could start work on a takedown guide/re-install guide while focusing on your direct issue... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hut73 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 AWESOME!....and yeah...in the rifles i have unjammed it has always been the broken cylinder...it's like for some reason when he should travel back to the loading position it get missaligned and hits that metal plate in the lower part of the carrier..and obviously it's not a soft hit....but well..in your case...thats a new one...good to know that can happen too... Gents, just a thanks again for the help. Finally got the parts in from KJW this week, and reassembled the gun today, and it works like a charm! Glad to have my baby back in action. BTW, that rear assembly that combines w/ the selector switch went in in less than 5 minutes, and was SO ridiculously easy to reassemble. Here's a pic of my finished KJW CQBR: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trustkill Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Never realized that I didn't post my m4! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fadz Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hi trustkill, i need a takedown and reassembly guide for the lower receiver, especially the triggering mechanism. Mine gets sluggish, at times refusing to switch to full auto. Blowing duster gas and greasing it helped a bit but if things get nasty especially after heavy use, I want to be able to clean each part and be able to correctly put it back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 just curious but y mess with the new bolt when the old one worked perfectly fine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Love it trustkill. Very Navy Seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freon Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Stay tuned for mine. In the mean time, you should really see what PanteraTigris did to his KJW! We want pictures! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cj Radge Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Got my KJW TK GBBr last weekend. I was surprised that my bolt is already V2 and some of the parts are V2 as well like the inner buffer tube, its brass anymore but steel or aluminum anodized with black color. Anybody got the same version? Weeks ago before my KJW TK GBBr arrived, I bought a version 2 bolt because I thought I'll get the V1 bolt when the rifle arrived. Now I have two version 2 bolt, I will just modify one for CQB: Low FPS/High recoil and the other for SPR: High FPS/Low Recoil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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