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Hey guys. Went out to the local field yesterday to use my KJW a bit more. I did further testing on the new piston cup and I ran into some problems. Prior to playing, I had lubed up the piston cup. Half way through the first game, I began to have jamming issues to where the nozzle would remain in the forward position and prevent the bolt from slamming home again. I noticed that the nozzle is also unable to return under the tension of the return spring. It relies on the bolt's weight and the buffer spring to do that. I re lubed the cup and it worked again, but within another hour, I ran into the same problem. I think because of the slightly larger diameter of the mushroom of the seal, it is causing a bit of friction in the system that was meant to use a different seal to keep cycling consistent. I would like to hear other's thoughts. I am going to run a comparison test very soon.

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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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Does anyone know what the part number is for the little spring that pushes on the cut off valve/fps reducer/npas?

 

Was wondering if anyone knew......

 

My stock valve spring broke (albeit after some extensive use) and I lost my manual. I don't feel like testing KJW's english comprehension....

 

For those who don't know, the parts numbers are listed in the back of the manual.

Edited by Mental Medic
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Hey guys. Went out to the local field yesterday to use my KJW a bit more. I did further testing on the new piston cup and I ran into some problems. Prior to playing, I had lubed up the piston cup. Half way through the first game, I began to have jamming issues to where the nozzle would remain in the forward position and prevent the bolt from slamming home again. I noticed that the nozzle is also unable to return under the tension of the return spring. It relies on the bolt's weight and the buffer spring to do that. I re lubed the cup and it worked again, but within another hour, I ran into the same problem. I think because of the slightly larger diameter of the mushroom of the seal, it is causing a bit of friction in the system that was meant to use a different seal to keep cycling consistent. I would like to hear other's thoughts. I am going to run a comparison test very soon.

 

If your Bolt is V2 Part no. 112 or in V1 part.no. 33 (Cylinder Spring) is probably mangled just like the picture i posted.

 

 

Was wondering if anyone knew......

 

My stock valve spring broke (albeit after some extensive use) and I lost my manual. I don't feel like testing KJW's english comprehension....

 

For those who don't know, the parts numbers are listed in the back of the manual.

 

Part no. 35

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It does not seem like my spring is mangled in the least. I can actually see the new piston cup causing more friction (due to the better seal) than the stock one. I am using Super Lube as the lubricant. I tried that and liquid silicon and it made the problem ease up but I did notice that the stock return spring is not strong enough to pull back the nozzle on any of the shots, even when I first installed it. It seems that there is a possibility (I dont know how far the piston cup comes out of the housing when shot) that when the nozzle shoots forward, the cup catches on the edges of the housing. When I pull the nozzle manually, it catches slightly, causing some of the jams. I will do some tests tomorrow.

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Took my KJW to a game yesterday, while its great, I found my BB falling too fast, I tried to adjust the hop up but the bb wont elevate, anyone know whats wrong with it?

 

The hop up is the most disappointing part of this rifle out the box.

 

You can either do the shrink wrap mod described and pictured by me several pages back or if you have a pillar drill and tap set you can do the TDC mod. I have now done 3 its not too hard if you have the equipment.

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Just did my tests with both piston cup rings. I first tried CJ's ring and then the stock one. Relubing CJ's I fired both in Semi and Auto modes. I went through the magazines no problem but did note that in both firing and function tests, the nozzle would not return back under the tension of the return spring. This is what I believed caused my bolt to stay in battery in game on Saturday and caused me a few problems due to low lubrication and the higher friction caused by the wider diameter of the ring.

 

I then reinstalled the stock cup. I checked my return spring and it is still in prestine condition. I did a function test and made sure the nozzle stuck and then snapped back into place in the bolt when a magazine was inserted into the weapon. I did the same fire tests and noticed a slight decrease in recoil but had no jams and a cleaner return of the bolt. I did many function tests and had no issue with the bolt remaining slightly open and me needing to use the forward assist to put it back forward. The rate of fire increased with the stock ring (as I expected with lower friction) and I saw no decrease in trajectory performance (and no gain either).

 

I personally believe KJW used this diameter ring for a reason. CJ's ring is made of a better material (stronger and softer for a better seal) but I dont think they designed the strength of the return spring or the inside of the bolt to use this size ring. If the ring were made out of CJ's ring's material but was the same diameter of the stock, I think we would have a dead winner. Just my two cents.

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Sorry guys its not a service I sell the 3 I did were in my spare time for me and two mates.

 

I could do a post with some pictures describing how its done if that'd help anyone?

 

If you're stateside, T_hum @ Cradle Airsoft does the mod in addition to the other parts he sells for the KJW. You just ship him your stripped down upper, he performs the mod, and ships it back to you.

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Looks like we are stuck with the shrink wrap mod number5, it's not a bad mod I can over hop .30 @1.8j with it.

 

I guess so...for now.

I will try the hop up mod if I need it. Honestly though I haven't even had a chance to fire bb's through it! Damn city living, I miss the country. Very pleased with it so far though and I scored an absolute steal of a deal! Just must resist dry firing it too much!

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Is there no after market hop up arm that is extended on the nub side for better reach to the hop up rubber? I checked mine and the only problem is the arm not touching the rubber. I did the shrink wrap mod earlier but havent test it coz its dark. I'll give it a try tomorrow, but an after market arm would be nice.

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No. Cradle Airsoft looked into producing an arm but as the hop varied so much from rifle to rifle the idea was abandoned in favour of the TDC modification which is an improvement on all rifles.

 

On mine the shrink wrap worked so that .25's were perfect but there seemed to be very little effect on anything heavier. Now with the TDC mod I have a range of adjustment and I've even removed the std hop adjustment wheel so the ejection port looks better.

Edited by weekenny
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Has anyone noticed this hammer that supposedly fits the KJW M4 before?

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=34627

 

Of course it's Matrix/Evike, but I'd be curious if the current Hammer has bearings, and if not, what sort of a difference the bearing would make in performance.

 

Of course, bearings can be a weak point, as seen in AEG gearboxes...

 

Thoughts?

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Finally got around to ordering my V2 Bolt. When trying to install the Cradle Velocity Adjuster, I couldn't get the badgeress thingy loose and ended up stretching the *suitcase* out of my spring... I ended up just banging the bolt on my desk a couple times and it came out after that... I used the spring that holds the piston cup from the V1 and it's all good now.

Original V2 spring shown with a BB for size comparison...

7d8e654e.jpg

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Has anyone noticed this hammer that supposedly fits the KJW M4 before?

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=34627

 

Of course it's Matrix/Evike, but I'd be curious if the current Hammer has bearings, and if not, what sort of a difference the bearing would make in performance.

 

Of course, bearings can be a weak point, as seen in AEG gearboxes...

 

Thoughts?

 

If it ain't broke, dont fix it. I dont think the carrier has much friction against the hammer compared to some other GBB rifles Ive played with. Seems to me that if something like this came out its probably just a money grab rather than solving any real problem (at least with the KJW).

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If it ain't broke, dont fix it. I dont think the carrier has much friction against the hammer compared to some other GBB rifles Ive played with. Seems to me that if something like this came out its probably just a money grab rather than solving any real problem (at least with the KJW).

 

Roger that. I had no intention of buying. Just really haven't seen much in the way of spare parts labeled for the KJW outside of yours and RA-Techs stuff. Probably b/c it doesn't need them!

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