Hut73 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Hey guys, been wondering if anyone has tried out an AI gascan on KJ mags, anyone know about how many mags it fills? Or if anyone uses anything else to fil mags in field? I had one, as well as a couple of the various VFC grenade type gas chargers. I found that at best, they only filled a couple mags. Typically, the volume of gas held was negligible at best in most cases, and they just couldn't fill as well as the green propane canisters. At this point, I'm running a maxpedition(I think) nalgene pouch on my belt line, that is perfect for holding a propane/mapp-pro cylinder w/ the fill adapter still attached and even has room for a couple full size speed reloaders in the outer pouch... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breakethebeat Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 hey guys i need help, i cant seem to push that pin out in the first step :/ ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cj Radge Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hey Breakthebeat, you need to hammer it slightly. It is really tight when you remove it for the first time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul202 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 This has proabably already been answered in the 221 pages, but I have a couple questions. 1.) Is this gun easily skirmishable? I refuse to get a sewing machine to skirmish with, and I don't have any gas guns that are yet skirmish ready, so I was thinking about purchasing this gun. 2.) Can this gun run propane without any problems? 3.) if it is skirmishable, how many magazines are reccomended? 4.) Is this the same KJW M4 everybody is talking about for 100$ less than all retailers? I suppose shipping will make up for it, but on the website it says shipping will only be $45-$73. Also, if I order an M4 from this place, will it pass customs inspections into the U.S. I have ordered from them before, and they covered up the trades with some black tape, but I know something happened with a batch of WE M4s and I don't want to spend $300+ dollars on this and never receive it. http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=25261 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swishy Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 1, yes, it is quite skirmishable out of box. Range, accuracy, and reliability are quite nice with no upgrades. 2, I have been running propane since early november 2011 with no gas related problems. 3, I easily run 5 mags, though I almost never use full auto. 4, yes that is the same KJW M4 everybody is talking about, though that price is not a huge discount from what you'll find at other stores. And as for customs, mine got through very fast. The KJW has no trades, so there are no clear problems that would give the customs guys a reason to seize it. Also, if the gun is seized, then (I think) the company will refund your money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Also, if the gun is seized, then (I think) the company will refund your money. No. As far as most (if not all) retailers are concerned, if you do not do what is necessary to make sure the item you are importing is imported properly it is *your* fault. If it is seized by customs it is gone and you are out the money. Customs is supposed to give you the opportunity to appeal their decision, unless it becomes a concern of the BATF or another federal agency. However; KJW M4s are on the list of "authorized" GBBRs allowed to be imported to the US, the mechanism is clearly visible as different from the real AR, where as WEs and especially WAs leave some room for question. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Interficium Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 No. As far as most (if not all) retailers are concerned, if you do not do what is necessary to make sure the item you are importing is imported properly it is *your* fault. If it is seized by customs it is gone and you are out the money. Customs is supposed to give you the opportunity to appeal their decision, unless it becomes a concern of the BATF or another federal agency. However; KJW M4s are on the list of "authorized" GBBRs allowed to be imported to the US, the mechanism is clearly visible as different from the real AR, where as WEs and especially WAs leave some room for question. I believe eHobby has a seizure guarantee? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swishy Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 No. As far as most (if not all) retailers are concerned, if you do not do what is necessary to make sure the item you are importing is imported properly it is *your* fault. If it is seized by customs it is gone and you are out the money. Customs is supposed to give you the opportunity to appeal their decision, unless it becomes a concern of the BATF or another federal agency. However; KJW M4s are on the list of "authorized" GBBRs allowed to be imported to the US, the mechanism is clearly visible as different from the real AR, where as WEs and especially WAs leave some room for question. Ah. I really wasn't sure abot that, I just rwemember someone saying something like that. Though i guess it's nice to know now that my M4 isn't illegal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jackster802 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) Got mine today from Ehobby. Customs didnt even open the box. Got here in less than a week. It is the Ver.2 M4. I already installed the Falcon piston ring (but I broke the nozzle spring ), I put 2 nickels in the buffer tube to speed it up a little, and I shrink wrapped the hop-up arm. The hop-up really does suck, I am using it on a windy day but I can barely get .26g BBs past 160ft. I am trying to get around 200ft. All in all though, I love it, and I cant wait to get more mags and fun stuff to put on it. Your going to see a lot more of me in this thread Btw, is the falcon piston ring supposed to be smaller than the original? I didn't chrono it with the original, but with the falcon one it's only 420fps which seems low compared to most people in this thread. Edited February 11, 2012 by Jackster802 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Best hop mod by far is the TDC mod. Much better and more consistent than the shrink wrap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jackster802 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Cradle and t-hum have disappeared so I can't really get the tdc mod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 If you have access to a pillar drill I can post a guide for doing it. With me being in the UK I had to do mine myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waffelcopter Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I just bought my KJW today, a used gen 1 with Cradle upgrades. When my WE PDW broke last night I decided I'm gonna fix it up and sell it. Now I've joined the dark side and hopefully will never have to deal with parts breaking after every skirmish ever again. Just to sure though, if I have a Cradle piston, carrier extension, tightbore, and velocity adjuster I shouldn't need anything besides more mags right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 With gen 1 pick up a couple of spare bands for the bolt group. As when these go you can get damage to the bolt cup. Out of 3 kjw gen ones I service I've only seen 1 broken band but they are cheap. Front hinge on the gen 1 upper can crack but revised uppers are cheap and won't suffer the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waffelcopter Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 When the band breaks I'll just order a whole bunch of new ones and a new upper and use an electrical tape one in the meantime. As for the TDC mod, I happen to have access to a drill press. Is it really worth it and how difficult is to do on a scale from 1 to 10? The hop up window is open correct, like a KWA GBB as opposed to a standard AEG? I might try my hand at an R-Hop as that seems to be the ultimate hop up modification for any gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PanteraTigris Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 If you have access to a pillar drill I can post a guide for doing it. With me being in the UK I had to do mine myself. Can you post a guide please??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MindTrick Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I may have missed it but wasn't somebody putting together a step by step takedown/maintenance guide for the KJW M4? I've tried skimming backwards about half way through but couldn't find a link or posting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Yes the TDC is worth while, it makes the adjustments infinite rather than 6 'clicks' also you can remove the hop wheel etc for a more realistic open chamber. Difficulty about 4 out of 10, setup is the key! Get it clamped and square to your drill. I'll get some guide pictures up on Thursday / Friday when I have time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Please let us know if the R hop is worth the trouble! I would def get mine done if it is! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jackster802 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I hate my hop-up! Everything else works great in the gun except it. I shrink wrapped it and it worked for 1 mag, then the screw came loose, then I tightened it and the hop-up was so high that it jammed, then I lowered the hop-up and it went back to having zero hop-up or insane hop-up with the screw tightened. I have just about had it with the hop-up. I need that guide to the TDC Mod. I will find the Pillar drill or drill press if need be. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) OK the TDC modification, I'll keep the guide quite simple because its a simple enough modification and you can alter some of the details to suit (you'll see as we go). You will need: Drill, either a pillar drill or a normal drill in a stand. Tap set. Drill bits. Center punch. Calipers / Ruler. Soft jawed vice. Now before we start I drilled mine from the underside to the top, first attempt I went from the top down and the drill was off a little not enough to make the mod not work but I found working from the inside out made getting the buisness end spot on easier. To achieve this you will need a faily small chuck in the drill. Also make sure your tap is going to be long enough (you can do this from the top inwards). As for what to use as a set screw I made mine from a 4 x 50 mm stainless bolt. Cut to length with a slot in the top for a small screwdriver. Step 1: Strip the upper (on your own here, if you are stuck I did pictures for the shrink wrap mod.) Step 2: Assemble the hop arm and carrier alone into the upper. Mark the position of the end of the hop arm (roughly the end of the ramp). Remove arm, etc. Step 3: Mark with a centre punch half a diameter (of your selected set screw) plus 2mm back from the end of the arm mark. Step 4: Grip your upper in a soft jawed vice so that the drill bit will pass squarely through the upper. Step 5: Drill slowly through the upper, watch the material is soft but the guides for the gas tube can deflect the bit. I'd suggest a small pilot bit to start. Step 6: Remove burrs from hole. Step 7: Tap hole to suit selected set screw. Step 8: Assemble you need the factory hop, arm / spring etc but you can bin the wheel, screw and the spacer ring thing. Step 9: Set hop and enjoy. Excuse the pictures they are from my first go where the drill deflected and as you can see the hole is off. But this did not cause the hop arm to skew so I'd not worry about being dead centre but it does look neater when you are done. Home made set screw, very simple but you can use any grub screw (4mm is ideal) As you can see my first go was a little off, also nearer the front end of the ramp would have been better. Even with the hole a bit to the side the arm remains square right to the end of its travel as shown. What you see on the rail. Edited February 16, 2012 by weekenny 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jackster802 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 How do I take the hop-up bucking and barrel out of the outer barrel, I thought about using brute force but I wanted to be sure first. Also, how do you remove the mag catch? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 I might try my hand at an R-Hop as that seems to be the ultimate hop up modification for any gun. The question is how effective the R-hop will be with expanding gasses, and the much more violent and inconsistent force behind a GBBR. I would be interested, if it works, as I have a few weapons with R-hops that are phenomenal. I haven't taken a gander yet but I remember that one specific brand of redi-mag works with the KJs, it's CA, correct? Anyone tried a real redi-mag or redi-mod? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 How do I take the hop-up bucking and barrel out of the outer barrel, I thought about using brute force but I wanted to be sure first. Also, how do you remove the mag catch? There is a grub screw in the outer that holds it in, will drop out once removed. Mag catch, push button as far as you can then unscrew the lever end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jackster802 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) What kind of inner barrel does it use? or what kind can I modify to get it to work? And does the Falcon hop-up rubber fit? Edited February 19, 2012 by Jackster802 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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