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KJW M4

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Thanks. I just discoverd that my cylinder return spring broke. I'll just order an extra bolt assembly with my replacement spring.

Can I order a V2 bolt from KJW themselvs? and I didn't find the V2 bolt on RA tech's web sight, is that something I have to email them about?

 

and Saberwing, I don't know if cradle does, but RA thech makes a few TBB for it.

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Thanks. I just discoverd that my cylinder return spring broke. I'll just order an extra bolt assembly with my replacement spring.

Can I order a V2 bolt from KJW themselvs? and I didn't find the V2 bolt on RA tech's web sight, is that something I have to email them about?

 

and Saberwing, I don't know if cradle does, but RA thech makes a few TBB for it.

 

You can order it direct from KJ but dont email them "V2 Bolt", instead ask for "VERSION 2 Bolt".

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Is cradle still doing custom inner barrels?

 

Yes, another guy I know just got one from him recently. I think he's pretty busy w/ his other work right now, but he is still making and selling them...

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You can order it direct from KJ but dont email them "V2 Bolt", instead ask for "VERSION 2 Bolt".

okeydoke, thanks!

One more question, though. Does anyone know how much a complete V2 bolt is going to run me?

Edited by swishy

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okeydoke, thanks!

One more question, though. Does anyone know how much a complete V2 bolt is going to run me?

 

I just got mine, and I think it was around $30 US for all the necessary parts which come as a package deal. Its not bad at all...

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I need help on removing the castle nut on the buffer tube, I don't have the specific wrench.

I have tried a strap wrench and trying a punch & mallet combo but the "metal" is to soft for any more attempts.

I'm trying to install an ASAP.

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I need help on removing the castle nut on the buffer tube, I don't have the specific wrench.

I have tried a strap wrench and trying a punch & mallet combo but the "metal" is to soft for any more attempts.

I'm trying to install an ASAP.

 

Stop trying you can't remove it because it is molded(one piece as in built in)!!!!

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I need help on removing the castle nut on the buffer tube, I don't have the specific wrench.

I have tried a strap wrench and trying a punch & mallet combo but the "metal" is to soft for any more attempts.

I'm trying to install an ASAP.

 

 

Where the stock locks into place on the buffer tube, there is a small grub screw. Remove that and the end cap and the outer buffer tube should slide off exposing the brass inner.

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@ Kai_wolf, I just read your comments. I was busy in the past weeks for 3 days continuous milsim event and catching up with work =). Thanks for your comments, this way I would know how the product works and improvements needed.

 

In my KJW GBBr, i never experienced jamming due to the piston ring. Also the guys in my team never had a jamming problem using the piston rings. But using thicker grease or thicker oil will slow down the return of the piston that could be one of the reason of that problem. I highly suggest we use light silicone oil. When you pull the bolt manually with your hand, it does not return fully. But when the rifle is fired, it does return to battery due to impact of the recoil.

 

However, I will try to recreate the problem you encountered by using different oil, grease and scenarios. And see what can be done. I'll try to make videos too. =)

 

Again Kai wolf, thanks for your comment, this made me excited because i have more reasons to tinker with my gun. =)

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Hello all,

 

As I am a now a proud owner of a lightly used KJW M4 I'd figure I would share some observations as well as ask some questions after having taken this bad boy out on 2 outings just a week apart.

 

- The mags fit into 2 of my 3 Tactical Tailor 30rd single mag pouches with the top retention band. It appears as if the third maybe a stitch tighter than the rest as it holds onto a MAG 100rd pretty snuggly. The mags go in just more than half of the way and then the top of the pouch meets the fat bottom part of the mag.

 

- Met somebody on the field this past Saturday with what looked like the Gen 3 FastMag system. These seem to work on the tightest tension even in the downward direction. Tried shaking it out and it did not seem to budge. May have to get a few to replace the TT pouches.

 

- Going from a higher capacity magazine (incl. mids) to a more realistic count takes a lot of of getting used to especially since the rest of the people on the field did not make that same change. Got to get used to being outgunned when playing those public games. Also KJW M4 mags are some heavy pieces of kit.

 

- Has anybody else have issues with the buffer tube brass sleeve being loose? Mine had about 2mm range of twist movement. Doesn't seem like much but for some reason it just drove me insane. OCD much? What I did to correct this was to apply 3 or 4 passes of teflon tape to the outer threads of the brass sleeve and reinstalled it. No twisting movement at all after that.

 

- The hop-up dial doesn't seem to want to stay put sometimes. Not sure if its the recoil or me jostling the thing around while running all over the place but by the middle of the third game after loading the third mag the BB's would only fly all of 20ft (~6m) and fall sharply. I recall doing this a couple more times in the day. Does anybody have a fix for this?

 

- Toward the end of my second day of play with the KJ I noticed that the BB's were not feeding at all. I would eject the mag to see there were still rounds but would not see them come out the barrel whenever I pulled the trigger. Changed to a couple mags, same thing. Reinserted the first mag, racked the charging handle, pulled the trigger, BB came out. Next trigger pull without racking the charging handle, no BB. Racked, pulled trigger, hello BB. Mind you distance and trajectory weren't all that great. The kind of gas I was using was Airsplat "Green" gas that I got off of Amazon, suppose to be hippie friendly and EPA approved (shenanigans?). Temp was only low 60F(~15C) out. Didn't seem that there was any obstructions in the barrel. Ran a cleaning rod through it and same issue. What can I attribute this issue to?

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- Toward the end of my second day of play with the KJ I noticed that the BB's were not feeding at all. I would eject the mag to see there were still rounds but would not see them come out the barrel whenever I pulled the trigger. Changed to a couple mags, same thing. Reinserted the first mag, racked the charging handle, pulled the trigger, BB came out. Next trigger pull without racking the charging handle, no BB. Racked, pulled trigger, hello BB. Mind you distance and trajectory weren't all that great. The kind of gas I was using was Airsplat "Green" gas that I got off of Amazon, suppose to be hippie friendly and EPA approved (shenanigans?). Temp was only low 60F(~15C) out. Didn't seem that there was any obstructions in the barrel. Ran a cleaning rod through it and same issue. What can I attribute this issue to?

 

Nothing wrong with the barrel or the magazines. This sounds like the issue is with your bolt carrier. Check it's integrity. If you have a V1, then you may need to tighten it up. If you have a V2, you may have to disassemble it to fix it.

 

I recently had my return spring on my V2 bolt break and I think this happened when I noticed my gun kick a little stronger while shooting. Performance didn't seem to be affected but I think my FPS went up as bbs appeared to suddenly be flying faster and targets I was hitting were making more noise when hit. (shooting cardboard targets)

 

==============================================================================

 

 

 

Kai, is it possible that your lube may have made cj's piston cup bloat or expand a bit?

 

It does not seem like my spring is mangled in the least. I can actually see the new piston cup causing more friction (due to the better seal) than the stock one. I am using Super Lube as the lubricant. I tried that and liquid silicon and it made the problem ease up but I did notice that the stock return spring is not strong enough to pull back the nozzle on any of the shots, even when I first installed it. It seems that there is a possibility (I dont know how far the piston cup comes out of the housing when shot) that when the nozzle shoots forward, the cup catches on the edges of the housing. When I pull the nozzle manually, it catches slightly, causing some of the jams. I will do some tests tomorrow.

Edited by freon

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Nothing wrong with the barrel or the magazines. This sounds like the issue is with your bolt carrier. Check it's integrity. If you have a V1, then you may need to tighten it up. If you have a V2, you may have to disassemble it to fix it.

 

I recently had my return spring on my V2 bolt break and I think this happened when I noticed my gun kick a little stronger while shooting. Performance didn't seem to be affected but I think my FPS went up as bbs appeared to suddenly be flying faster and targets I was hitting were making more noise when hit. (shooting cardboard targets)

I'm not quite sure which version I have but thanks for letting me know what to look out for when I get a chance to open it.

 

I'm halfway done reading through this whole topic so hopefully I'll pickup more info.

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Ok, so I read all 218 pages of this topic. It was super informative.

I ordered my KJW M4 about a hundred pages ago and received it today. WOW! I have been slinging BBs on and off for over 10 years, and have owned every decent AEG Brand there is. Nothing compares to this sucka!. I ordered from EHobbyasia and received it in 5 days. The stuff I ordered from California, still waiting. LOL. Anyway, it appears that it came with the V1 bolt, and I was somewhat surprised, but not disappointed. Now I can get all the Cradle Airsoft goodies. :)

Loading the mag is not so much fun, but emptying it sure is. The mag spring seems a little weak, probably have to do some work on it. Right now she is plain Jane, but I like her just the same.Thanks for all the insight from the forum regulars, and the laughs from a particular noob who just doesn't get it.

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I, too have been following this thread for quite some time, and I'm loving everything I've read about this particular rifle. I'm definitely interested in picking one up, and hope to be able to sometime in the near future.

 

Recently, however, I was browsing Airsplat's gas rifle section, and I came across the WE M4 416. I did a little bit of research on the 416 to see if I could find a decent review on its reliability and performance (especially in comparison to the KJW M4, which by all accounts is super-reliable and top-notch in performance), but I couldn't really find anything other than short user reviews, most of which were simple "This gun is great."

 

I'm curious if anyone has experience with the WE 416 and the KJW M4, and may be able to enlighten me on which is more reliable in terms of out-of-the-box operation, or if you could tell me if the WE 416 system is the same as the WE M4 system (which has a review posted up already that I could compare). It kinda sounded like they might have been the same when I was reading the product description on Airsplat, but I wasn't sure.

 

Thank you guys for all the information you've provided already, and please forgive my ignorance :)

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I own both KJW m4, and WE m4

hk416 and M4 for WE are exact same internal

 

Reliability in longterm or short term?

Short term (<10k rounds) Both are the same

Long term, KJW wins

Range (distance) and Accuracy (grouping) WE wins thanks to the VSR inner barrel and bucking

Upgrade-ability, WE wins

Realism, WE wins

Recoil, WE wins

 

 

In short

KJW Gen 1 bolt are more reliable long term

Gen 2 is more realistic and kick harder but reliability drops

RA-Tech Custom WE w/ Steel Bolt Carrier = WIN!

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In short

Gen 2 is more realistic and kick harder but reliability drops

 

Also take a look at what makes your gun operate. I've had both the WE and the KJW as well and I got rid of my WE. Why? What good is a good gun if it won't shoot?

 

Let me put it into perspective: One of my teammates clung to his WE, which is a great gun, no doubt and I will not say anything about the gun itself however the magazines are a different story.

 

This teammate has 10 magazines... Any day that he tries to play with his WE, 8 out of 10 magazines will leak gas and not function properly. The leaks are very very strong.

 

I have 8 KJW magazines. None of which have leaked. I also have 2 gen 2 KJWs and have not had a reliability problem with them yet.

 

I play 2 to 3 day milsim events regularly and as you know, games like these are really hard on equipment. None of my KJs have failed during these events.

 

ps. It's the KJW that has the VSR bucking and inner barrel, not the WE as stated above. WE uses a ball bearing and a proprietary hop that has horrendous groupings... unless they've changed this with their open-bolt system.

Edited by freon

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I have owned both a WE M4 Pre Open Bolt and my KJW m4 with V1, and now a V2 bolt. I know the new WE open bolts are much better than their older versions, but my V1 was quite awful. I had magazine leaks and the hop up system was tempermental. The old kokusai design also would cool down often. I know much of these issues are remedied by the V2, but my KJW has given my few problems. Both the V1 and 2 bolts work well. Ive put well over 10K rounds through mine and it is still running.

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Thank you all for your feedback, it is much appreciated. Magazine longevity is something I forgot to ask about, but definitely something at the top of my list for consideration. Once again, I'm leaning more and more toward the KJW...probably a wise decision ;)

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Last night I got a chance to open up my M4 for the first time since the weekend I was experiencing feeding issues and upon removing the BCG I found the blackish elastic band was broken. I don't recall exactly who but somebody on this thread said that his band broke and their gun functioned just fine as if the band did not serve a purpose. My question is does the elastic band play a role in bb feeding?

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Yeah, you are going to need a new rubber band. And yes, it is what allows the bolt cup to reciprocate with the bolt. People had luck fabricating one out of electric tape in the past, if I remember correctly.

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