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KJW M4

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Hey CJ I'm still waiting on your guide to how to put an ASAP plate :P

 

Hi Folks, sorry took time to create one, here is my video guide on how to install Magpul ASAP Plate to KJW Tanio Koba M4 Gbbr:

 

 

Like it and subscribe in my youtube if it helped you. =) Thanks

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Hey CJ I'm still waiting on your guide to how to put an ASAP plate :P

 

Hi Folks, sorry if it took me time to create one. Here is my video guide on how to install Magpul ASAP Plate to KJW Tanio Koba M4 Gbbr:

 

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Like it and subscribe in my youtube if it help. =) Thanks

Edited by Cj Radge

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What I did was to use putty epoxy to fill the gap. I went one step further and dremeled a step on that metal wedge and put it in sideways so that it would engage the notch on the outer buffer tube.

 

I didn't put in any washers though... Could that be the cause of my broken charging handle?

Edited by D2D

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HI D2D, I doubt if that is the cause of broken charging handle. It has to be other cause. I think I know the cause of it but I need to confirm it first. I will check the KJW TK M4 of my buddy (freon) who broke 2 charging handles already. Will let you know.

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What I did was to use putty epoxy to fill the gap. I went one step further and dremeled a step on that metal wedge and put it in sideways so that it would engage the notch on the outer buffer tube.

 

I didn't put in any washers though... Could that be the cause of my broken charging handle?

 

To my mind, the main reason of why some people brake charging handles on their airsoft m4 gbbrs consists in the manner of pulling. Any gbbr is a quite fragile toy, not a real steel assault rifle. So, when you pull your m4 T-shaped charging handle you should always do this with 2 fingers from "both sides" of the handle, just like at these pictures:

20120105-135851.jpg

GG-M4-ChargingHandle.jpg

 

And this way is not safe for airsoft m4 gbbrs:

img_4497-800-mt.jpg

 

Also lubricate the surface of the charging handle from time to time in order to prevent hight friction.

At least, I've not broken a single charging handle on my kjw m4 after thouthands of shoots!

Edited by JackAAA

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Its not an effective training tool then, if you can't do it that way then you can't go through the manual of arms in an expeidient manner replicating the process under stress.

Edited by frogfish

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Yeah... Thanks for the advice.

 

My charging handles broke while I was firing the gun, not while I was locking and loading FYI and I've managed to figure out how it broke.

 

The charging handle was no longer locking into place with my upper receiver and whenever I fired, it would sometimes move back and forth.

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Hmm, I seem to recall reading a post by some guy saying that he broke six charging handles and that the problem was that the buffer tube cap was too loose. My ASAP plate is actually slightly bent, so the effective width might actually be thicker than the stock plate. I was pretty hard on the presumably die-cast charging handle though - the simplest explanation is probably the correct one. Does anyone know if real-steel charging handles will fit on the KJW?

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What I do with my charging handle is pinch one side and then pull back instead of using the one side as a latch to pull on. SO far have done this multiple times and had no issues. I run a V1 bolt in a V1 gun

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Its not an effective training tool then, if you can't do it that way then you can't go through the manual of arms in an expeidient manner replicating the process under stress.

 

I just bought everything that might break from KJ last week... extra charging handle was one of them...

 

Im thinking of getting those "tactical" latches, anyone has tried it in their KJW's?

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Hey folks long time no speak. well anyways i just got my upper receiver back from T-Hum with the hop-up mod installed, I was wondering as to what does it actually do? After fiddling with my hop-up I haven't noticed any real difference in the way the arm is effect it seems to be exactly the same before i sent it out. Please can somebody who has this mod school me on how to use it effectively. Oh I also removed my shrink tubing on the arm, was that a bad idea?

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Couple of notes for you:

 

1. Yes, removing the shrink was a great idea. It doesnt add anything once the mod is done.

 

2. Set your hop wheel so that the arrow is pointing right down the line of the barrel. (The off position)

 

3. Check to be sure that your hop rubber isnt soaked in oil and that your barrel is clean.

 

The whole point of the TDC mod is twofold - First that the grub screw applied pressure straight down on the arm rather than cocking it to one side like the hop wheel system does. Second is that it more finely tunable.

 

Also, what wight BB are you using? I would say with the KJW a .25 is the ABSOLUTE minimum with .28 being much better.

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No sweat man. Give everything a once over as I outlined and if you still aren't getting the results you were hoping for we can take a look at some more detailed issues that might play a role in rare cases.

 

And just to be clear: set the hop wheel to the off position and then use a 1/16" allen wrench through the hole in the top to increase/decrease your hop. Counter clockwise reduces hop. Clockwise increases. When increasing hop you will eventually get to a point where everything starts to feel quite tight. Stop at that ponit and go no further. That means the hop arm is fully down and further force will damage it. Make tiny adjustments of 1/8 to 1/4 turns at a time when adjusting the hop.

 

Keep us posted.

Edited by t_hum

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just remeber you can use your dial or the grub screw but not both, and in order to get the best effect you dial NEEDs to be set to off, anything else will change the results or your TDC mod.

 

 

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Green loctite is a good choice as well as a product called Vibra Tite VC3 thats used on most accessory bolts on Harleys. The Vibra Tite is what I send them out with but a bit more than I apply might be necessary. Their product info:

  • Will not harden like traditional threadlockers
  • Dampens and absorbs vibration
  • Works with metal, wood, plastic* and more
  • Fasteners are easily adjusted, removed and reused
  • Works on fasteners of any shape or size, from tiny eyeglass screws to large construction bolts
  • Works with internal or external threads

So far I prefer it for things that have to be frequently adjusted.

Edited by t_hum

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Testers are testing. Once we get results back we can incorporate any changes and start manufacturing. We machine these in house so its a quick process.

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Testers are testing. Once we get results back we can incorporate any changes and start manufacturing. We machine these in house so its a quick process.

 

Hmm, you should send me one :D

 

I really recommend you guys make charging handles as well

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