KJW M4

[Landa]

no, its 280mm....

[slipknot1971]

Welcome to my team mate Vera...and no Juan Tanio's come with a 280mm inner barrel stock like Landa says...

[t_hum]

Yeah same lube as the other one. Which is fine, perhaps not enough tho since this one was is new. Will have a proper look first chance I get.

 

Try a swap of your x-rings. If the problem persists after the switch it may be an out of spec loading nozzle. Ive seen a few recently that were definitely molded a tad undersize which can cause the issue you describe.

[weekenny]

Ok I have a couple of spare x-rings will have a go. Do you have nozzles for sale or do KJW still do those?

[delarosa]

no, its 280mm....

Its the cqbr length right? Any idea about the size of the outer diameter?

[freon]

It has to be bought from KJW themselves, but don't worry about it, you can use it without a nozzle return spring. I used mine a whole day, almost 1,000 thousand rounds without it, no problem... i don't know what the long term effect could be.

 

A broken spring affects FPS consistency somewhat.

[Landa]

Its the cqbr length right? Any idea about the size of the outer diameter?

 

idk about the diameter, i think 6.08... but BOTH the M4A1 and the CQBR have 280mm inners.

 

 

A broken spring affects FPS consistency somewhat.

 

Thats what i imagined, but i read a while back that nozzle return springs are for aesthetics. i saw some slow motion video of a TM cycling and the nozzle wouldn't retract (not even close) before the slide returned to battery.

 

Its so you see the open chamber when you pull back... and not the nozzle.

[delarosa]

@weekeny

 

Im trying to do the TDC mod based on your instruction, but I got question on step 3 which im not sure of.

 

Step 3: Mark with a centre punch half a diameter (of your selected set screw) plus 2mm back from the end of the arm mark.

 

I never use centre punch before, my selected screw is 4mm, im not sure how to mark half a diameter, could you explain it to me? And is the size of the drill should be smaller than 4mm? Should I drill 2mm back from the end of the arm mark or drill on the centre punch mark?

[sandstorm]

Delarosa, I'd read that as marking the drilling spot at 4mm from the end of the arm mark. 4mm / 2 + 2mm.

[weekenny]

For a 4mm screw 2mm plus 2mm (half diameter) gives a 4mm from the end of the arm. This is where you drill. The use of the centre punch helps stop the drill bit from slipping on the sloped surface.

 

For the tap set I used a 4mm screw needed a 3mm drill bit. If you drill a 4mm hole you will have no material to form the threads.

[delarosa]

So for example:

 

(Hop up arm mark) --4mm----- (drill point)

 

Or

 

(hop up arm mark)--2mm--(drill point) ?

[yellowjournalism]

Hey guys I'm having trigger reset issues. Unlike most people, I don't slap the trigger when I shoot it, I keep it depressed all the way through cycling (I like to stay consistent with proper handgun trigger control). So with the trigger depressed, after the bolt cycles, when I let off my finger for the trigger to reset, it just stays. I actually have to nudge it forward from behind for it to reset, and then it's ready to shoot again.

 

V1 gun.

 

Any advice?

[weekenny]

(Hop up arm mark) --4mm----- (drill point)

 

This so when your hole is drilled and tapped the screw will sit under the hop arm 2mm from the end.

 

If you are still unsure drill from the top, although it is tricky to ensure the drill reminds on course as it passes through the guides for the gas tube. If drilling from the top mark the middle point of the last block on the rail. This makes it easier to mark your drill start point but harder to get the business end correct. Hence why I preffer to drill from the underside.

[Theme57]

Hey guys I'm having trigger reset issues. Unlike most people, I don't slap the trigger when I shoot it, I keep it depressed all the way through cycling (I like to stay consistent with proper handgun trigger control). So with the trigger depressed, after the bolt cycles, when I let off my finger for the trigger to reset, it just stays. I actually have to nudge it forward from behind for it to reset, and then it's ready to shoot again.

 

V1 gun.

 

Any advice?

 

I had this issue when trying to make a homemade part 76 I think, check your trigger group to see what is causing it, the auto sear I think its called may be causing the issue. Its an easy fix really, but just take your lower receiver and see what is catching the hammer.

[delarosa]

 

 

This so when your hole is drilled and tapped the screw will sit under the hop arm 2mm from the end.

 

If you are still unsure drill from the top, although it is tricky to ensure the drill reminds on course as it passes through the guides for the gas tube. If drilling from the top mark the middle point of the last block on the rail. This makes it easier to mark your drill start point but harder to get the business end correct. Hence why I preffer to drill from the underside.

 

Ah! Now i get it, thanks so much!

[Alex Ispas]

Hello

I have an M4 KJW V2 that i buyed it 3 months ago, and shot about 500 bbs and now i have a problem with the Nozzle Recoil Spring, the spire that holds the nub its borken, for the moment i took out another spire and i made it work, for the second time, because happend already after 300 bbs shot, can you please tell me where i can find an original Nozzle Recoil Spring, or if the Prowin or Element Recoil Spring for WA is compatible?

 

Thank you all.

It has to be bought from KJW themselves, but don't worry about it, you can use it without a nozzle return spring. I used mine a whole day, almost 1,000 thousand rounds without it, no problem... i don't know what the long term effect could be.

 

Hello,

 

The problem is that is missfeeding if the nozzle does not cycle. Any help, on where i can find the springs, and at what costs?

 

Another problem now that i see, is that today i installed the Cradle Airsoft velocity Reducer and its cutting the power from 150 ms to 86 ms - anyone can help me with that? Note that i have installed the reducer with just one plastic Oring and with the rubber Oring

 

Regards,

A

Edited July 26, 2012 by Alex Ispas

[weekenny]

 

 

Ah! Now i get it, thanks so much!

 

No problem, let us know how you get on.

 

[Vera]

Thanks Slipknot1971 for the welcome.

Sorry DelaRosa they´re right, I thought the inner barrel of both M4 were the average lenght barrel but it´s shorter than that for both.

[t_hum]

Alex, the solution for your reducer issue is easy: use the small o-ring from the stock valve rather than the one included with the reducer. It allows more gas to flow by.

[Landa]

yep, and the nozzle return spring you buy from KJW.. email them at "kjworks@ms47.hinet.net"

 

Hey guys I'm having trigger reset issues. Unlike most people, I don't slap the trigger when I shoot it, I keep it depressed all the way through cycling (I like to stay consistent with proper handgun trigger control). So with the trigger depressed, after the bolt cycles, when I let off my finger for the trigger to reset, it just stays. I actually have to nudge it forward from behind for it to reset, and then it's ready to shoot again.

 

V1 gun.

 

Any advice?

 

This happened to my old WE, idk how similar are the trigger groups... but what happens is the trigger begins to wear down at the point in which it catches the hammer, and doesn't do a "trigger reset" because it can't slide back into the second position (two points of contact, first, with trigger pressed, hammer caught, trigger released... hammer drops a bit to the second position)

 

The hammer will now just stay in the first position and the trigger can't move forward (because the hammer can't slide to position two). Later on, it will get to the point where it catches the hammer on the first position, but when you release (trigger reset) the hammer will just drop and cycle again, instead of sliding into position two, as the area where the second position contacts has worn too much.

 

Look for a worn down trigger. How many rounds do your trigger components have?

Edited July 26, 2012 by Landa

[Hut73]

So I've finally finished my long rifle upper... Only item still needed to accurately replicate my real steel(minus the FDE, as the RS is all black) is an AFG...

 

[yellowjournalism]

I had this issue when trying to make a homemade part 76 I think, check your trigger group to see what is causing it, the auto sear I think its called may be causing the issue. Its an easy fix really, but just take your lower receiver and see what is catching the hammer.

This happened to my old WE, idk how similar are the trigger groups... but what happens is the trigger begins to wear down at the point in which it catches the hammer, and doesn't do a "trigger reset" because it can't slide back into the second position (two points of contact, first, with trigger pressed, hammer caught, trigger released... hammer drops a bit to the second position)

 

The hammer will now just stay in the first position and the trigger can't move forward (because the hammer can't slide to position two). Later on, it will get to the point where it catches the hammer on the first position, but when you release (trigger reset) the hammer will just drop and cycle again, instead of sliding into position two, as the area where the second position contacts has worn too much.

 

Look for a worn down trigger. How many rounds do your trigger components have?

 

Unfortunately it was bought second hand so I don't know how many rounds been through it. Also don't know trigger group at all. Removed upper and looking at it but no clue how to fix :[

 

Any youtube videos of people working on the trigger group? I just KNOW that if I detail strip it I'll screw up the reassembly.

[weekenny]

Ok so took the bolt apart from the tank and replaced the x-ring with the spare one and it all seems fine. The x-ring had swollen up only thing I can think of was when I built it up I was doing testing in the house with abbey gas rather than propane. It has a lube through it that possibly reacted with either the regular lube I use in my other kjw or the rubber of the x-ring.

 

I'll get some mags through it on Sunday to see if the replacement x-ring suffers the same fate.

[frogfish]

HUT I may have an FDE AFG around here somewhere if you want it, PM me your address.

Edited July 27, 2012 by frogfish

[weekenny]

Had the tank out today and with the spare x-ring no problems. Don't know what happened to the swolen one.

 

Lol up to 4 offers from regular players to buy it, proving a popular wee beast.