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KJW M4

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@t_hum Are you planning on ending the sale for your BCG's anytime soon? I am waiting until you release your new mag loader, however I'd be pretty mad if I waited to buy them together and then the price was raised.

The BCG and all other products should remain in our catalog for as long as we are in business which looks to be quite some time. I wouldnt expect much price variation in the short term either.

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@Hut73 It's with my great joy that I found out you're wrong about the delivery date. It is in my local post office, and It will probably be delivered later today. If not then Monday. :) Soon I will be a proud owner of a KJW M4.

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@Hut73 It's with my great joy that I found out you're wrong about the delivery date. It is in my local post office, and It will probably be delivered later today. If not then Monday. :) Soon I will be a proud owner of a KJW M4.

 

Zang.jpg

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^The worst part is that it would've come yesterday, however just before I went to the bank to get more cash the delivery person came and apparently I had to pay $30 to get my package. Has this happened to anyone else?

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^The worst part is that it would've come yesterday, however just before I went to the bank to get more cash the delivery person came and apparently I had to pay $30 to get my package. Has this happened to anyone else?

Sounds like sales tax.

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Hut,

 

I wanted to throw something your way, and allow other users to chime in in relation to your issue with FA and your V1+ (unless you fixed it).

 

I noticed that when I used my V1 or V2 charging handel assembly with my V1 bolt or my V1+ bolt I had no issues what so ever, everything functioned flawlessly. However; when I put my V1 charging handel on my V2 bolt it would not cycle properly. I think somewhere there is a slight tolerance variation between the two that was causing a touch more friction than normal. I have been going over the thing over and over with calipers trying to figure out where, but no luck yet. Could this be potentially part of the issue, could it be that your aftermarket (haphestus?) charging handel is just a touch different spec?

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I will attempt to impart wisdom.

 

Full auto issues should first be addressed through the fire control group. There is a slender piece of metal in the FCG that holds the valve open until the hammer is cocked. This piece interacts with the valve knocker.

 

Over time, this slender piece of metal will cause the valve knocker to split on the thinnest area surrounding its pin by creating a camming action between it and the force of the magazine valve pressing on the valve knocker.

 

In essence, I would say the full auto issues can be traced to the valve knocker. Check to see if its either broken or loose.

 

As a precautionary measure, I would suggest removing the slender piece of metal referenced in an earlier paragraph, as it provides an irrelevant feature at the cost of severely reduced parts durability. That feature is the strength of the recoil. The recoil without that particular slender piece of metal isn't reduced too severely, but it is discernable. This is the only negative side effect of removing that slender piece of metal.

 

The result of removing the slender piece of metal, and if necessary repairing/replacing the valve knocker, is a dramatic increase of shot to shot consistency.

 

Edit: I realized I had failed to mention how exactly a broken valve knocker affects function on full auto.

 

I've never given much thought on their relationship, or the relationship between issues with full auto and any other part in the gun.

 

If I had to guess, I would say that the existence of the slender piece of metal messes with the timing of the FCG. It would release the hammer too early, which would cause it to ride forward along with the carrier.

 

Specific causality aside, I would say that this slender piece of metal, overall, causes most of the known problems with the function and performance of the GBBR.

Edited by Mental Medic
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Okay, can somebody pleas help me? We had a snow day and I was able to get my KJW M4 from the post office. It is wonderful, and o shot 1 mag throguh it. Very accurate, although I need to adjust my hop up. However, I also bought a PTS MOE Stock and Grip, and I hav some problems installing them. I was able to install the stock, however it was EXTREMELY hard to push down, even with a screwdriver. Is this normal? Also, how do you remove the standard M4 grip and put on the PTS? All the guides I see are for AEG's, which house a motor in the stock.

Edited by Paul202

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Okay, while trying to install the PTS Grip the selector switch accidently fell out, and I think something broke. There is no tension on the selector, even with the spring installed. I can still pull the trigger on semi and have the piece of metal (sorry forgot the name) pop up, however on full-auto I can't pull the trigger. I also can't remove the pin in front of the magazine to fully separate the upper and lower reciever. Can somebody please help me?!?

 

EDIT: It looks like now full auto/semi work fine, however there is hardly any tension on the slector switch. It doesn't click like it did out of th box. I am also having trouble fitting the PTS MOE grip on. Has anybody else had that problem?

Edited by Paul202

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Okay whilst rattling the gun around the below piece fell out. According to this diagram, it appears to be piece #44. How do I install it back into the gun?

 

1. Remove grip

2. Remove spring

3. Insert detent pin (the piece in your picture) with the pointed end facing into the gun

4. Replace spring

5. Replace grip.

 

Sent from my totally sexy, Android powered, IPod killing, Samsung Galaxy S3 ;-)

 

 

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Okay, the above pieces attaches to the spring and applies tension to the selector switch. I figured out all of the internal problems, and I shot a mag. The only problem I have now is attaching the PTS MOE Grip. I bought the official one, however instead of coming in a Magpul branded box it came in a plastic bag with a label stating "PTS MOE GRIP (Tokyo Mauri Type AEG). I didn't order an AEG grip, just a standard one. Are they both the same thing? And has anyone else had any trouble attaching it?

 

^ Edit: Sorry Hut, I didn't see your post. Thanks for helping though. I'm also sorry for the triple posts, I kind of panicked. This is really an awesome gun, easily the GBB or airsoft gun I've ever owned. Nice recoil, ROF, weight, and noise. Once I figure out how to attach the PTS MOE grip on I'll have to post some pictures.

Edited by Paul202

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Okay, the above pieces attaches to the spring and applies tension to the selector switch. I figured out all of the internal problems, and I shot a mag. The only problem I have now is attaching the PTS MOE Grip. I bought the official one, however instead of coming in a Magpul branded box it came in a plastic bag with a label stating "PTS MOE GRIP (Tokyo Mauri Type AEG). I didn't order an AEG grip, just a standard one. Are they both the same thing? And has anyone else had any trouble attaching it?

 

^ Edit: Sorry Hut, I didn't see your post. Thanks for helping though. I'm also sorry for the triple posts, I kind of panicked. This is really an awesome gun, easily the GBB or airsoft gun I've ever owned. Nice recoil, ROF, weight, and noise. Once I figure out how to attach the PTS MOE grip on I'll have to post some pictures.

 

 

Anyways; where did you order it from?. Was it from an MAGPUL / PTS licensed company? 

 

 

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The grip it it is the correct one will only have 1 hole in the top for the Allen bolt. Also the base plate for the grip clips into place on the GBB version but the AEG version is held on by two screws.

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^I think I got the AEG Version because the base plate is help on by screws and there are multiple holes at the top. I bought it from UNComany, there's a link down below. I'm guessing that it is not compatible and I will have to buy a GBB one? http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=23924

Try eBay, closer to you and much cheaper. (most of the time free ship for less than $20) Not to mention it may also be Magpul USA (RS) instead of PTS.

 

Again, make sure you are buying the correct one... :rolleyes:

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I'm feeling pretty stupid. So far this gun is awesome. The only thing that could be considered bad is the noise, my are are ringing after shooting it indoors. Also I need some advice. I have $300 to spend on the gun. Should I buy the V1+ bolt and some mags? At $160 I want to know if the V1+ bolt is really worth it. If I didn't buy it I could buy all he needed accessories for the gun, which are the CORRECT grip, EOTech, Rear BUS and some mags.

Edited by Paul202

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Yeah; the KJ M4 are LOUD. hahaha.

If you have a V2 system; the V1+ isn't as much as a priority. Unless you need to crank down the speed. Could get a VA for the V2. The V2 shoots quite fine as far as I have seen but I have not fielded it yet. I broke my charging handle playing around with it too much.


 

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The only thing that could be considered bad is the noise, my are are ringing after shooting it indoors.

 

This is ONLY a good thing. .. Trust me on it.

 

Sent from my totally sexy, Android powered, IPod killing, Samsung Galaxy S3 ;-)

 

 

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