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KJW M4

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A friend, who bought my other KJW a month back, said his also clicks, but his is not an audible click. His still has that smooth turn to the dial that I remember mine having, ha ha.

Did some target shooting yesterday after a CQB indoor game, and she definitely needs the TDC. Once I get the TDC and adjust the new hop system to the DMS-1 optic, she should make quite the DMR platform.

Though I've had a out with most of the modding attempts, I've yet to regret getting her and going full-on GBB, leaving the world of electricity behind, ha ha.

 

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Well she's been my main project for a while now, think i got her in January - and finally she's ready to prove herself on the fields of honor...or plastic BBs. The Cradle v1+ BCG and TDC is the only things i have/had in mind with mods or replacement when looking at performance. And from what i can understand, it's all you need done. 

I do wish there were a wider range of accessories like triggers, selector switches, springs and so forth.

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Well she's been my main project for a while now, think i got her in January - and finally she's ready to prove herself on the fields of honor...or plastic BBs. The Cradle v1+ BCG and TDC is the only things i have/had in mind with mods or replacement when looking at performance. And from what i can understand, it's all you need done. 

 

I do wish there were a wider range of accessories like triggers, selector switches, springs and so forth.

I am not sure if you saw my post but I got a RS AR15 trigger spring to work in my KJW M4 and also I took an old cheapo spring gun spring (not sure where I got it, but I will find out soon) and it fit nicely as the buffer spring. Slower ROF, but I could see using it in a colder enviorment or something. Either way the KJW M4 does have some potential to use RS parts.

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@Theme57

 

Unfortunately i live in a country that has very strict weapon laws. As a private citizen, you cant own a firearm, unless you are a member of a shooting club and have been an active member for over 2 years. Even then requiring a license to buy and own your own AR-type rifle is not easy.

 

RS weapon parts are near impossible to get a hold of. Not only due to laws here, but US ITAR stops shipment of RS items as well... such as a trigger spring. Of course that's an exaggerated example, but it's not as easy as just ordering online.

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Alright t_hum, I'm gonna need Cradle to start manufacturing some stronger bb loaders.  My loader bulges out (hehe) along the seam adjacent to the feed rod/ramrod/plunger thingy.  And I actually bent the feed rod/ramrod/plunger thingy but not to the extent to where I cannot use it.  Not sure how long it'll hold up.

 

Can anybody suggest a more than decent bb loader to use with the cradle loader adapter?

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Alright t_hum, I'm gonna need Cradle to start manufacturing some stronger bb loaders.  My loader bulges out (hehe) along the seam adjacent to the feed rod/ramrod/plunger thingy.  And I actually bent the feed rod/ramrod/plunger thingy but not to the extent to where I cannot use it.  Not sure how long it'll hold up.

 

Can anybody suggest a more than decent bb loader to use with the cradle loader adapter?

I've had the best luck with the KWA, or Marui ones.

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Not knowing the richness of the spring market, but wouldn't there be a way to source a spring of the same length and tension as a trigger spring with buying an actual trigger spring? If you were so inclined.

 

Edit : I read a while back that someone used a gas buster charging handle on the kjw, is that possible?

 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

Edited by mcc-dano

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Can't get a hold of the guy behind Cradle himself, thus I'll place it here... you never know.

Would it not be nice if someone CNC'd a hopunit capable of accepting TM GBB / VSR buckings and barrels?

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Can't get a hold of the guy behind Cradle himself, thus I'll place it here... you never know.

Would it not be nice if someone CNC'd a hopunit capable of accepting TM GBB / VSR buckings and barrels?

I believe he addressed that question somewhat in a recent post. Might be a few pages back by now if you go to look for it...

 

 

Look back on 12/28/2012

Edited by Hut73

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Im pretty sure I responded to that email.  Cyberspace ate it maybe?  Spam folder?  I answer so many emails I can't really remember them all.

 

In any case:

  Id say its unlikely we will be doing any type of conversion for buckings or hop units.  The KJW market is pretty limited.  R&D time is absolutely consumed right now with other work. Just not a good fit at this point.

 

T

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Hi everyone,

 

I'm brand new to the Airsoft world, and I've decided to go with the KJW m4 (ver 2) as my first rifle. I've had a good crack at learning what I can about this rifle (largely from this thread), but since I'm such a noob I'm not always understanding what I'm reading. I've got a couple of questions that I was hoping some of y'all might be able to help me out with:

 

  1. I was thinking about adding a Tanio Koba twist barrel, as I understand they can considerably improve accuracy. Would this barrel be suitable? 
  2. Whether or not the twist barrel is a go, would a tightbore be a better bet?
  3. I've heard a few people say that the hop-up isn't the best. I wouldn't mind learning more about that, since I have no idea what is or is not desirable in a hop-up.
  4. I'd like to add a front rail system and a fore grip, but I'm not sure how to check compatibility with this rifle. If anyone could suggest some options , that would be great!
  5. I would also like to add some low power optics. I take it anything that is compatible with a Weaver rail will work fine?
  6. Finally, if anyone has any other suggestions for tweaks/improvements etc. I would love to hear them!

Thanks in advance to everybody that replies, sorry for being full retard!  :blink:  

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Hi everyone,

 

I'm brand new to the Airsoft world, and I've decided to go with the KJW m4 (ver 2) as my first rifle. I've had a good crack at learning what I can about this rifle (largely from this thread), but since I'm such a noob I'm not always understanding what I'm reading. I've got a couple of questions that I was hoping some of y'all might be able to help me out with:

 

  1. I was thinking about adding a Tanio Koba twist barrel, as I understand they can considerably improve accuracy. Would this barrel be suitable? 
  2. Whether or not the twist barrel is a go, would a tightbore be a better bet?
  3. I've heard a few people say that the hop-up isn't the best. I wouldn't mind learning more about that, since I have no idea what is or is not desirable in a hop-up.
  4. I'd like to add a front rail system and a fore grip, but I'm not sure how to check compatibility with this rifle. If anyone could suggest some options , that would be great!
  5. I would also like to add some low power optics. I take it anything that is compatible with a Weaver rail will work fine?
  6. Finally, if anyone has any other suggestions for tweaks/improvements etc. I would love to hear them!

Thanks in advance to everybody that replies, sorry for being full retard!  :blink:  

1. I hear they only work well with low FPS guns that dont have any HOP. I suggest a RA-Tech 6.03 or have Cradle cut you up a custom length one. Both work well, just be sure to get 6.03. I tried the 6.01 and it worked okay with .30's, but I was getting far better accuracy with .25s (6.03 barrel) than the 6.01 could ever do. Reason why is the bb needs about a .05 space in between the barrel so that when its fired the bb wont bounce around the barrel. Either people who sell the barrel will do fine. I used RA-Tech because Cradle didnt have any barrels in stock and it was a little cheaper I think.

 

2. Look in answer #1, but to state again, get a 6.03 and either RA-Tech or Cradle will do the job well. Not sure about Falcon though, but RA-Tech sells steel barrels and Cradle can cut a custom length for you. Both are equal IMO.

 

3. With Hop in the KJW M4 V1 and V1.1's the hop wasnt the best but I hear it has improved in the V2. For the config i have on my hope I use the stock Hop with the Cradle TDC mod. The TDC allows for near infinite hop and how they do that is they drill a small hole above your current hop and then you use a grub screw to adjust it which makes use of the reg hop not used anymore from what I hear. Also in a hop from what I hear, you want backspin on your bb that allows you to hit your mark at your desired zeroing (zero/zeroing = adjusting sights/scope/hop/etc so your bbs hit where you aim at the range you choose). A bad hop would have too little backspin regardless of how you adjust it or just barely works in general. As far as replacement HOPs go the RA-Tech one worked really well for me until 7000ish rounds shot later.

 

4. Your front set (consists of everything from the tip of the barrel to the delta ring) is AEG compatible. You can use RS (real steel/RS = real firearm) parts for AR15s for the front set, buit not all would work and some would require some modification for it to work. If you got the one without the rail they sell rails that you can screw on the bottom where the holes are on your handguard so you have a rail, but anything that can work with an aeg (make sure it will work with a marui) should be able to work with yours.

 

5. The rail is a 1913 picatiny. Weaver wont work, just get the stuff that will fit on 1913 picatiny (not sure if I spelt that right). As far as optics go I used to use a vortex SPARC, but in all honesty you wont be engaging people far enough or quick enough for the real need of an optic. I suggest you paint your sights and train with them. Seriously, train with the sights and you should be good. The config I have on my sights is that I moved the rear a little more forward (mine doesnt have the carrying handle) I painted the rear sight red so its birght and put white on the top of the front sight so it looks kinda like a white circle or square. Why I did that is because I can see red, but my eyes wont be focused or distracted by it while I can focus on the which yet i still see the red. Instead of the whole aim off the tip and put the tip in the center I place the dot in the center and use that as to where my hits will be. For me its quick and works pretty well. If you do plan on going with optics I HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest Vortex. They have a limited lifetime warranty and are budget to boot. They say that dont loose or get the sight stolen and whatever damage no matter how miniscule they will replace or fix the sight and in airsoft thats a great relief on the budget.

 

6. Since you have a V2 get the Cradle BCG, the whole bolt with all the add ons and you gun should run ever better. Also for you mags you might want to put some JB weld on the tab that moves up when empty so you have a more reliable LRHO (last round hold open). For fun teaks I found that you can put a RS AR15 trigger spring and it makes the trigger pull harder. From what I know it feels around the 5lbs range, but I have yet to test the true weight. Other than that the 6.03 barrel, TDC Mod (I like it better than the RA-Tech Hop), Cradle BCG, and the JB weld on the mags bolt catch tab and maybe paint the sights and you are good to go as far as internals and some externals go.

 

I hope this helped :)

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1. I hear they only work well with low FPS guns that dont have any HOP. I suggest a RA-Tech 6.03 or have Cradle cut you up a custom length one. Both work well, just be sure to get 6.03. I tried the 6.01 and it worked okay with .30's, but I was getting far better accuracy with .25s (6.03 barrel) than the 6.01 could ever do. Reason why is the bb needs about a .05 space in between the barrel so that when its fired the bb wont bounce around the barrel. Either people who sell the barrel will do fine. I used RA-Tech because Cradle didnt have any barrels in stock and it was a little cheaper I think.

 

2. Look in answer #1, but to state again, get a 6.03 and either RA-Tech or Cradle will do the job well. Not sure about Falcon though, but RA-Tech sells steel barrels and Cradle can cut a custom length for you. Both are equal IMO.

 

3. With Hop in the KJW M4 V1 and V1.1's the hop wasnt the best but I hear it has improved in the V2. For the config i have on my hope I use the stock Hop with the Cradle TDC mod. The TDC allows for near infinite hop and how they do that is they drill a small hole above your current hop and then you use a grub screw to adjust it which makes use of the reg hop not used anymore from what I hear. Also in a hop from what I hear, you want backspin on your bb that allows you to hit your mark at your desired zeroing (zero/zeroing = adjusting sights/scope/hop/etc so your bbs hit where you aim at the range you choose). A bad hop would have too little backspin regardless of how you adjust it or just barely works in general. As far as replacement HOPs go the RA-Tech one worked really well for me until 7000ish rounds shot later.

 

4. Your front set (consists of everything from the tip of the barrel to the delta ring) is AEG compatible. You can use RS (real steel/RS = real firearm) parts for AR15s for the front set, buit not all would work and some would require some modification for it to work. If you got the one without the rail they sell rails that you can screw on the bottom where the holes are on your handguard so you have a rail, but anything that can work with an aeg (make sure it will work with a marui) should be able to work with yours.

 

5. The rail is a 1913 picatiny. Weaver wont work, just get the stuff that will fit on 1913 picatiny (not sure if I spelt that right). As far as optics go I used to use a vortex SPARC, but in all honesty you wont be engaging people far enough or quick enough for the real need of an optic. I suggest you paint your sights and train with them. Seriously, train with the sights and you should be good. The config I have on my sights is that I moved the rear a little more forward (mine doesnt have the carrying handle) I painted the rear sight red so its birght and put white on the top of the front sight so it looks kinda like a white circle or square. Why I did that is because I can see red, but my eyes wont be focused or distracted by it while I can focus on the which yet i still see the red. Instead of the whole aim off the tip and put the tip in the center I place the dot in the center and use that as to where my hits will be. For me its quick and works pretty well. If you do plan on going with optics I HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest Vortex. They have a limited lifetime warranty and are budget to boot. They say that dont loose or get the sight stolen and whatever damage no matter how miniscule they will replace or fix the sight and in airsoft thats a great relief on the budget.

 

6. Since you have a V2 get the Cradle BCG, the whole bolt with all the add ons and you gun should run ever better. Also for you mags you might want to put some JB weld on the tab that moves up when empty so you have a more reliable LRHO (last round hold open). For fun teaks I found that you can put a RS AR15 trigger spring and it makes the trigger pull harder. From what I know it feels around the 5lbs range, but I have yet to test the true weight. Other than that the 6.03 barrel, TDC Mod (I like it better than the RA-Tech Hop), Cradle BCG, and the JB weld on the mags bolt catch tab and maybe paint the sights and you are good to go as far as internals and some externals go.

 

I hope this helped :)

That helps a LOT bro, thanks!

 

I've just sent Cradle an email with regards to a custom 6.03 barrel and the V1+ BCG. Would love to hear what people have to say about these, seems pretty good though! Its a shame I can't get the TDC mod (being an international custy and all that), but I guess I can still look into the RA-Tech one you mentioned. Cheers for that.

 

Thanks also for the info on the RAS/RIS and the optics - I'm gonna park both of those for now, but once the other mods are done (and the bank account has fattened back up!) I'll look into that :)

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Since you can't get Cradle to do the TDC follow the guide to do it yourself.

Might need someone more skillful than myself to do that - I'd likely destroy my rifle :fear:

 

Where can I find this guide? My primitive searching skills are coming up empty...

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OK the TDC modification, I'll keep the guide quite simple because its a simple enough modification and you can alter some of the details to suit (you'll see as we go).

 

You will need:

 

Drill, either a pillar drill or a normal drill in a stand.

Tap set.

Drill bits.

Center punch.

Calipers / Ruler.

Soft jawed vice.

 

Now before we start I drilled mine from the underside to the top, first attempt I went from the top down and the drill was off a little not enough to make the mod not work but I found working from the inside out made getting the buisness end spot on easier. To achieve this you will need a faily small chuck in the drill. Also make sure your tap is going to be long enough (you can do this from the top inwards).

 

As for what to use as a set screw I made mine from a 4 x 50 mm stainless bolt. Cut to length with a slot in the top for a small screwdriver.

 

 

Step 1: Strip the upper (on your own here, if you are stuck I did pictures for the shrink wrap mod.)

 

Step 2: Assemble the hop arm and carrier alone into the upper. Mark the position of the end of the hop arm (roughly the end of the ramp). Remove arm, etc.

 

Step 3: Mark with a centre punch half a diameter (of your selected set screw) plus 2mm back from the end of the arm mark.

 

Step 4: Grip your upper in a soft jawed vice so that the drill bit will pass squarely through the upper.

 

Step 5: Drill slowly through the upper, watch the material is soft but the guides for the gas tube can deflect the bit. I'd suggest a small pilot bit to start.

 

Step 6: Remove burrs from hole.

 

Step 7: Tap hole to suit selected set screw.

 

Step 8: Assemble you need the factory hop, arm / spring etc but you can bin the wheel, screw and the spacer ring thing.

 

Step 9: Set hop and enjoy.

 

 

Excuse the pictures they are from my first go where the drill deflected and as you can see the hole is off. But this did not cause the hop arm to skew so I'd not worry about being dead centre but it does look neater when you are done.

 

Screw.JPG

 

Home made set screw, very simple but you can use any grub screw (4mm is ideal)

 

Hole1.JPG

 

Hole2.JPG

 

As you can see my first go was a little off, also nearer the front end of the ramp would have been better.

 

Travel.JPG

 

Even with the hole a bit to the side the arm remains square right to the end of its travel as shown.

 

Top.JPG

 

What you see on the rail.

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