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KJW M4

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That is without any of the carrier components. Add shipping and a hop chamber and rubber and you're well over $200. I can't say Im surprised by the price but I was secretly hoping they wouldn't charge 1/2 the price of a gun for less than half the parts.

 

Its not assembled I don't think. Just the parts.

Edited by t_hum

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For those wanting to get a second upper receiver from KJW be prepared for a punch to the gut. Price for a complete upper from them is $175. Thats pretty steep if you ask me.

 

hey "t" wassup....have you received any feedback from Clare at KJW about the quote prices from the parts list???

 

jorge.

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For those guys sruggling to find a European supplier, you might want to try Bohemia Airsoft (airsoft.cz/shop).

They're based in Prague and have the rifle in stock. Price is around 320 euros whhich I don't think is too bad considering the usual European mark up on airsoft stuff, however mags are alittle pricey at around 50 euros each!. They have a good selection of gear and parts in general and ship throughout Europe. If you look at the site, don't search under KJW, the gun is listed as an STTI product but in the description you will see it is made by KJW.

 

The only fly in the ointment is they don't accept Paypal or credit cards, it's bank transfer only or cash. Another Czech site is anareus.cz who have told me they will be probably stock the rifle soon and they take credit cards.

 

Although i'm a Brit, I live in Prague so will keep you updated.

 

I'm currently uprgarding mine. So far i've fitted a King Arms Knight's 12" MRE RAS, A.R.M.S style folding front sight, Magpul enhanced trigger guard, guarder stock pad, Troy rear BUIS, Madbull G5 flashider and King Arms sling adapter. All went on with no issues. Will post a pic if anyone is interested in a similar look. Still deciding on pistol grip, optics and sling and have internal parts including 360mm TB on order from Cradle.

 

Ideally I would like some sort of short dot replica, anyone got any ideas?

 

Number 47

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So 200 bucks is in my mind to much for a complete upper System. With shipping, i think it would cost 230 - 250 bucks. It would be more economic to buy a second gun. Then you will also get a spare magazin ;)

 

 

Airsoftsplat has the mags in stock but they dont deliver outside the USA? I am from germany.... :-(

 

@T_hum: The Stanag mags are in developing yet?

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I finally got my spair mag loading assy from Claire. it looks like they made a change in the BB tube (T4) it is now metal and not plastic!!!! Nice to see this. I was talking to T about this last Sunday. I thought they should be metal to keep from breaking in the field. I also had a friend make a new metal rod to replace the plastic one (T6). I think they need to make the new metal T4 with a "belled" tip to do away with the small adapter that I keep loosing (T5).

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Hey guys! I brought my KJW out for a skirmish today. Here is what I have so far.

 

 

Kjw m4 Non Serialized

Cradle Airsoft Tightbore (m4 length)

Cradle Airsoft Reducer

Cradle Airsoft Extension for BCG

Cradle Airsoft Metal Piston

 

 

So, I was using it throughout the morning and all was perfect. I scored a decent number of confirmed kills. I then let a buddy use the gun for a scenario and he comes back saying it wont fire. I rack the charging handle back and it only really goes back half way. The bolt goes forward and I fire. The hammer feels strange and incomplete when it hits. Like it is hitting something it shouldnt.

 

I attempt to take the gun down and it wont open!! I notice that the rear of the BCG is not going forward enough to pass the back of the lower receiver and thus keeps it shut. I had to unscrew the rear of the buffer tube and jam the buffer down with a rod. The gun then opened and I immediately see that the piston cup is hard to pull back. Upon pulling it off, I notice the Oring is off of the notch and has been pushed back but has not been ripped or torn. I put it back on and look at the piston cup. The cup, on the very rim, has a decent sized chip in it from some thing. I assume it had gripped the Oring on the way up and had jammed it backwards. I try shooting it again and after a second mag, same thing!

 

 

After struggling to free the BCG again, I filed down the chip to a more rounded shape to see if it would help. It did help quite a bit. I did not get any stoppages or jams BUT there was a noticeable ammount of venting from the escaping propane coming from the chipped portion. The seal was obviously not as tight. I am not going to use my rifle as it is now, but I am only stating this to how it can still be used and has enough to lock back a magazine on full auto still. It just becomes dramatically slower and venty.

 

I need to buy the new part from Clair. I need to find the part number and see the pricing.

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Hey guys! I brought my KJW out for a skirmish today. Here is what I have so far.

 

 

Kjw m4 Non Serialized

Cradle Airsoft Tightbore (m4 length)

Cradle Airsoft Reducer

Cradle Airsoft Extension for BCG

Cradle Airsoft Metal Piston

 

 

So, I was using it throughout the morning and all was perfect. I scored a decent number of confirmed kills. I then let a buddy use the gun for a scenario and he comes back saying it wont fire. I rack the charging handle back and it only really goes back half way. The bolt goes forward and I fire. The hammer feels strange and incomplete when it hits. Like it is hitting something it shouldnt.

 

I attempt to take the gun down and it wont open!! I notice that the rear of the BCG is not going forward enough to pass the back of the lower receiver and thus keeps it shut. I had to unscrew the rear of the buffer tube and jam the buffer down with a rod. The gun then opened and I immediately see that the piston cup is hard to pull back. Upon pulling it off, I notice the Oring is off of the notch and has been pushed back but has not been ripped or torn. I put it back on and look at the piston cup. The cup, on the very rim, has a decent sized chip in it from some thing. I assume it had gripped the Oring on the way up and had jammed it backwards. I try shooting it again and after a second mag, same thing!

 

 

After struggling to free the BCG again, I filed down the chip to a more rounded shape to see if it would help. It did help quite a bit. I did not get any stoppages or jams BUT there was a noticeable ammount of venting from the escaping propane coming from the chipped portion. The seal was obviously not as tight. I am not going to use my rifle as it is now, but I am only stating this to how it can still be used and has enough to lock back a magazine on full auto still. It just becomes dramatically slower and venty.

 

I need to buy the new part from Clair. I need to find the part number and see the pricing.

 

 

OMG my friend...the same thing happened to me a few weeks ago...i had to do the same you did...access through the receiver extension....and when i happened to open the receivers i found over inspection that my cilinder was chipped...it looked like it impacted with the bottom thin plate of the carrier...right now i'm in search for spare parts too...not using my gun also...just like you is on hold for new parts.

 

p.s. after checking and cleaning the gun it shooted normally....but i've choosed to have it quiet until i get the parts.

Edited by slipknot1971

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I had a similar problem today at a local game. My gun quit firing, could not seperate the upper from the lower. I used the forward assist to seat the BCG all the way forward. I was then able to access the BCG.

I pulled the BCG, pulled the piston cup and noticed the o ring had broke.... My own fault. Need to make sure before we run these things with the cradle piston we use silicone GREASE, not oils. My cup, piston, and o ring were dry and I had lubed it liberaly with heavy silicone oil the day before. Seems the propane blew all the oil away.

I changed the o ring, GREASED it back up, and had no problems for the rest of the day. It actually performed way better with the GREASE than it did with the oil.

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I had a similar problem today at a local game. My gun quit firing, could not seperate the upper from the lower. I used the forward assist to seat the BCG all the way forward. I was then able to access the BCG.

I pulled the BCG, pulled the piston cup and noticed the o ring had broke.... My own fault. Need to make sure before we run these things with the cradle piston we use silicone GREASE, not oils. My cup, piston, and o ring were dry and I had lubed it liberaly with heavy silicone oil the day before. Seems the propane blew all the oil away.

I changed the o ring, GREASED it back up, and had no problems for the rest of the day. It actually performed way better with the GREASE than it did with the oil.

 

 

nice detail right there...can you say the brand of the grease please....just to look for it here in my country

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Wow, thats interesting that a few other people had the issue.

 

- T hum: Sorry I wasnt able to respond earlier. Been busy with finals. When I opened the gun, the piston was still very much lubed with grease, as was the O ring.

 

Slipknot, yes. That's exactly what happened to me, especially with the gun not firing. I am glad the gun still cycles and shoots, but there is definite leakage. I wonder if this is just a wear and tear part or I did something wrong. Im not sure. I hope they make a reinforced piston cup soon.

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nice detail right there...can you say the brand of the grease please....just to look for it here in my country

 

It was a silicone grease used to lubricate the o rings in paintball markers. Didnt get the brand unfortunatly.

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Part of my cylinder comes in contact with the sharp edge of the bolt carrier. It has since developed a "nick" on it. I filed down the edge to make it rounded. So far, I have not noticed additional wear on the cylinder.

 

Parts list has been sent to Claire with KJW for a quote for spare cylinders, spring, flute valve, and flute valve o-ring.

 

I have made my own velocity reducer. Granted that it is not "adjustable", FPS is guaranteed to be higher than 300 but lower than 400 at 70 degrees. Should it not hold up, I will be in the market for a Cradle version.

 

So far, roughly roughly 8000 rounds have been put through one of my KJW M4's with virtually zero issues (aside from the one mentioned above which hopefully has been remedied).

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snoopy, have you noticed any difference in the seal? Venting, ect? Maybe my mags were just cold and I thought thats what it was.

 

I have noticed when the actuator valve on the magazine sticks, even a little, it spits gas. Check this by emptying the mag of gas completely and pushing on the valve with finger. If it does'nt snap back quickly and smoothly its sticking causing excess gas to vent.(thanks Travis for this hint early on)

Disassemble the mag and grease up the o rings on the valve. A little grease on the seals before reassembly wont hurt either.

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My gun does not vent gas out. The part that I filed/sanded down is the part of the bolt carrier that comes in contact with the hammer...it's square-ish. I did not sand down the cylinder.

 

I did some shooting. I left my magazine out in somewhat direct sun light. It was about 81F today. The gun shot fine with the home made velocity reducer.

 

As was written a few pages back, I found that the bolt carrier extension did not sit flush to the bolt carrier. After some hammering with a rubber mallet, it left my cradle metal piston deformed (although not to the point where it became useless). As some of you know, the piston's slot for the o-ring is just a little bit bigger which allows for the o-ring to move. With my piston being deformed, that space is now gone and the o-ring sits nice and snug with no room to move. Despite the nicked cylinder, the o-ring for the piston holds true to its shape and form with no visible damage to its structure.

 

Going back to the bolt carrier extension. Previously,the bolt carrier extension did not sit flush to the end of the bolt carrier. It had about 1.5-2mm's worth of "neck" before the "head" of the extension met with the very back of the bolt carrier. Anyhow, after a few shots using the mag that's hot to the touch...inspection of the bolt carrier revealed that the bolt carrier extension now sits flush against the rear of the bolt carrier. Now I can pop out the bolt carrier group without popping out the front pin!

------------------------------

 

With regard to the o-ring needing lubing, I found that using green gas with silicone in it) does keep the o-rings lubed up. I have always ran my BCG dry. I do not put lube in it whether it be grease or oil.

 

I know propane is cheap, but running green gas saves you from actually doing maintenance on the gun. :P

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py

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Snoopy is right about propane usage. I hate the price of green but I cant help like how it keeps everything lubed. I opt to routinely lube the piston cup but I could just as easily switch over to dropping lube into my propane adapter. Both methods should work. Or, of course, you can just run green.

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My apologies for any confusion, I was using GG when my o ring failed. I "shake well before use" and every time I fill.

I say propane cause GG is propane mix with oil added to it. I too am a firm believer in spending the extra money on GG vs. straight propane to protect my investment.

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A tad off topic with regard to the KJW system but I have noticed that a can of green gas fills mags better/quicker than a can of propane. I might be wrong but I'm thinking that green gas cans have "more" in it than propane does.

 

You can put more propane in a can by cooling down the can and putting more propane in the can.

 

This is how I used to transfer duster gas into empty green gas cans. I simply made adaptors that created seal on the duster can nozzle and the green gas can nozzle. After pressures equalize between the two cans, one can not transfer more over to the other. To be able to transfer the rest of the duster gas into the green gas can is by cooling down the can in the fridge. Usually, 5 minutes in the freezer does the trick then repeat the process. Duster gas cans can be emptied into the "empty/used" green gas cans all the way. By all the way I mean that you won't hear liquid sloshing around in the original duster gas container.

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Just took my gun out into the shop and ran it for 90 seconds straight using 100PSI, bone dry, shop air. Checked the cup after the run (thats about 1200 shots) and the parts will still coated with grease. Bottom line is, you gotta keep these things lubed one way or another. Silicone based grease is preferable as it sticks to the parts rather than getting blown away.

Edited by t_hum

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@Snoopy

 

If my math is correct you are correct. I looked into this a few weeks ago.

A bottle of GG is "Supposed" to be 1100ML and I pay $15.00 (US) for two bottles. So 7.50 (US) per bottle. A 16.4OZ Propane cost me about 4.50 (US) to buy it localy.

 

Now convert OZ to ML (just googled a converter) and 16.4 OZ = 485.0058868752794ML. So almost 2.5 Bottles of Propane for 1 bottle of GG. IF the math is correct. I hope not, I have an idea for a remote fill rig that will work with Propane but I would rather use GG due to the oil and cost

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@Snoopy

 

If my math is correct you are correct. I looked into this a few weeks ago.

A bottle of GG is "Supposed" to be 1100ML and I pay $15.00 (US) for two bottles. So 7.50 (US) per bottle. A 16.4OZ Propane cost me about 4.50 (US) to buy it localy.

 

Now convert OZ to ML (just googled a converter) and 16.4 OZ = 485.0058868752794ML. So almost 2.5 Bottles of Propane for 1 bottle of GG. IF the math is correct. I hope not, I have an idea for a remote fill rig that will work with Propane but I would rather use GG due to the oil and cost

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