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RANGE REPORT

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

 

1700 Hours

 

Temperature 85F / 29.4C In Sunny Arizona -

 

Propane Gas Used - Coleman Propane Fuel

 

Firing Mode Rapid Fire Semi Auto & Full Auto Fire - 12 Magazines

 

 

Gun State:

 

Functional Parts:

Magpul B.A.D. Lever - Cradle Airsoft Piston - Cradle Airsoft Aluminum Velocity Reducer - Using 'Echo 1' .28 BBs, Cradle Airsoft 6.03 Tight Bore 280mm Length for 10.5" CQB Barrel - CLassic Army Redi-MAg - Lower Now Machined To MILSPEC Dimensions - DSA MILSPEC Buffer Tube, DPMS "H" MILSPEC Buffer, DPMS Buffer Tube Nut, "Summer" Weight Action Spring - Selector Machined To AMBI Selector.

 

Cosmetic Parts:

Magpul M.O.E. Trigger Guard - Magpul M.O.E. Pistol Grip - Magpul A.F.G. - Magpul M.B.U.S. - G&P Defender Front Set - MadBull Noveske KX3 - Magpul A.S.A.P. Plate - Element "Surprise Cock Fag" Dust Cover - EbayBAnned T-1 Replica w/Larue Mount - Magpul MILSPEC C.T.R. Stock

 

Complete Gun

IMG_2364.jpg

 

Close Up Primary Side

IMG_2366.jpg

 

A.S.A.P. Plate & AMBI Selector

IMG_2367.jpg

 

Red-Mag & B.A.D. Lever

IMG_2370.jpg

 

- Bolt Carrier Group Optimization -

 

The Cradle Airsoft Carrier Extension was rounded off to facilitate smoother entry into the buffer tube with no risk of sharp edges or flat areas that might positively contact causing a "Hard Stop" or sudden Binding.

 

IMG_2384.jpg

 

,

IMG_2386.jpg

 

,

IMG_2389.jpg

 

The concern for the short term is Bolt Stop Integrity and the Long Term Concern are the Effects of the Added Weight + Stress on Bolt Carrier Group.

 

Initial Firing:

 

Rapid Semi Auto Fire

All rounds fired through to bolt locked back on BOTH Magazines.

Both Magazines Reloaded 3 X Each per Gas Fill.

32 BBs Per Load X 6 = 192 BBs

6 X Load to Bolt Stop = 6

 

Initially I was Most interest in this data as the concern was if the added weight would require more gas to move the Bolt Carrier Group to Cycle the Action Spring.

 

NOT The Case! Both Magazines Demonstrated Typical Gas Management @ 3 X Reloads to 1 X Gas Fill. Bolt Locked Back 6 X as expected, BB trajectory and shot placement and grouping was as expected. No change in hop up performance or consistency.

 

The Gun shot and felt FANTASTIC - Nearly Twice The Normal Recoil!!

 

Close Inspection of Bolt Cup - Carrier - Piston had no unusual wear, areas showing signs of compression ( Being Smashed ) or stress cracks.

 

 

 

Dry Firing - Bolt Stop Test

 

Due to the added weight of the MILSPEC Buffer and the WA Summer Spring the concern is how will the bolt stop react.

 

Test Cycle to be repeated 30 X.

 

Fully Gassed Both Magazines -

Charged Empty Gun to Bolt Stop -

Loaded 1 Magazine into Redi-Mag -

Loaded 1 Magazine into Magazine Well -

Charged Bolt to Full Battery -

 

Test Condition - Travis Haley "Hyper Violent Manipulation"

 

\ 1st Cycle /

Pulled Trigger -

Bolt Locked Back -

Dropped Magazine from Magazine Well -

Quick Reload from Redi-Mag -

Actuate B.A.D. Lever -

Pull Trigger -

Bolt Lock Back -

Total Bolt Stop Captures = 2 Per Test Cycle

 

\ 2nd Cycle /

Pulled Trigger -

Bolt Locked Back -

Dropped Magazine from Magazine Well -

Quick Reload from Redi-Mag -

Actuate B.A.D. Lever -

Pull Trigger -

Bolt Lock Back -

Total Bolt Stop Captures = 2 Per Test Cycle

 

!!On the 6th Cycle Catastrophic Failure!!

 

IMG_2374.jpg

 

Bolt Stop Resting on Magazine

IMG_2373.jpg

 

As initially thought the added weight of the MILSPEC Buffer 85 grams over the KJW Spec 62 grams AND the Added Stress of the WA Summer Weight Spring was detrimental to the integrity of the KJW Bolt stop.

 

This Was to Performed 30 X Successfully!

 

The communication has been made to KJ Works for replacement parts, and did not feel the need to order another bolt cup as the damage to the bolt was to minor dents around the gas port and a long scratch of the paint on the carrier.

 

 

AGAIN

The Lower Receiver Is NO Longer Stock KJW due to the machine work performed for the MILSPEC Buffer Mod.

 

Just Like Snoop A Loop who posted above me the Bolt Stop has broken just like his did!

 

Both Snoop and myself are pushing 14,000 BBs through - Actually I believe Snoop has more than I do!

 

Moving On,

 

In preparation for the replacement parts the MILSPEC D.P.M.S. Buffer has had the appropriate amount of Tungsten weight removed to match the weight of the stock KJW Buffer. Both Buffers are now identical in weight.

 

Not to be deterred and seeing where the Bolt Stop Break is located I decided to go ahead and gas, then load the magazines for another round of testing!

Why Not? What's A KJW If It Won't Shoot Broken - I Purposely Break My KJW So You Don't Have To!

 

Rapid Semi Auto Fire

All rounds fired with No Issues or Incident

Both Magazines Reloaded 3 X Each per Gas Fill.

32 BBs Per Load X 6 = 192 BBs

6 X Load to Bolt Stop = ZERO!!

 

2nd Close Inspection of Bolt Carrier Group - Found No New Issues.

 

Even in this condition I have Absolutely No Issues that the gun will keep running reliably or keep shooting consistently.

 

This pig will be skirmished this weekend I DON'T Care How Tired The Gun Says She Is!

 

So Please Expect yet another range report when the days AirBallin is done!

 

 

 

Thanks Again for your interest,,,

 

 

Total Magazines Expended = 12

 

Total Dry Fire To Bolt Stop = 11

 

3 BB Load To 1 Gas Fill

 

Total Issues / Incidents Encountered / Bolt Stop Related= 1

 

Total Round Count = 13,648

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So Raven... does T_HUM plan on making a hardened steel bolt catch at all in the near future? lol

 

Nice test! Yeah looking at that metal though it's obviously not hardened... sadly.

 

 

Better yet! With this mod it looks like you'll just have to put the switch on the mag to not utilize the bolt catch. Should that be the next test to see how many mags you can go though?

Edited by stickyittoyou

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IMG_2078.jpg

 

I've placed a request for a quote for a few "consumables" from KJW myself. At the moment, I only have 5 rubber bands left and 5 hop buckings.

 

I put in a request for a Bolt/Loading Nozzle, bolt catch, rubber band, and a flute valve...

 

Wear marks from ~12,000 rounds through the gun...

 

IMG_2092.jpg

 

IMG_2093.jpg

 

IMG_2094.jpg

 

IMG_2098.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Slightly tapered off BCG extension (as with raven1's)

 

IMG_2100.jpg

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
  • Like 1

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@ Elanaiba

 

Velocity reducer has the 2 thick spacers and 1 o-ring shooting 355 w/ .28g BBs at 85F / 29.4C

 

@ stickyittoyou

 

Cradle has their hands full with their projects they have on hand.

 

I Will Say I Wish Johnny over at RA-Tech would get off his *albatross* and start machining some Ambi-Selectors, Steel Bolt Stops, Steel Bolt Cups & Burst Trigger Sets for this Platform - Ya Listening Johnny??

 

Actually I will be starting to test for long term effects on the bolt carrier group. Specifically I will be looking at the Bolt Cup as it is a hardened plastic. I have no concerns for the Cradle Piston ( As I personally Beat the ###### out of it during product development ) Or the Bolt Carrier as it is of metal construction.

 

The Front of the Bolt Cup where the Bolt meets the Hop Up - The Top of the Bolt Cup - Specifically The Guide Housing - where the Guide Housing meets the Front Inside of the charging handle. The Rear Opening of the Bolt Cup ( where the gas escapes from around the Bottom of the Piston Base ) Meets the Carrier ( where the base of the Piston Rests and is Anchored to the carrier ).

 

These 3 areas of contact meet Simultaneously and bear the weight of the Bolt Carrier Group Equally. It is these 3 Specific Areas where the most attention to wear, stress fractures and signs of compression will be priority.

 

For Clarification: The Carrier in the gun has ALWAYS Had the Gen 1 32g Carrier Weight Installed - From Day 1 of Testing,,,

 

With the weight of the MILSPEC Buffer now being exactly what the Factory KJW Buffer is. Factor in that the 1st Gen Factory KJW Carriers came equipped with a 32g weight - Keeping in mind the current Factory KJW Carriers DO NOT Come Equipped with Any weight. Finally that the Cradle Airsoft Aluminum Carrier Extension ( preventative Mod set in place as a 'Control' to protect the lower from being 'blown out' ) weight is at 21g. I am not anticipating any issues.

 

 

As always though all data will be collected and posted in the range reports,,,

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Heard from Clare of KJ with regard to replacement parts...

 

"kjworks

to me

 

show details 8:38 PM (32 minutes ago)

 

 

Hi Shawn,

 

Part #54 (x2) $300*2=600 TWD

Part #15 (x2) $300*2=600

Part #17 (x1) $60

Part #26 (x2) $200*2=400

 

………………………………………………………………

 

These spare parts for M4 cost $53.5 USD.

 

Shipping fee is $2.5 USD.

 

We use paypal to deal over seas.

 

Our paypal account is kjworks@ms47.hinet.net

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Kjworks

 

Clare May 21, 2010"

 

 

Payment has been sent. Will see how long it takes for the items to come in. I sent payment about 15 minutes after I received the email.

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KJW MAGAZINE UPDATE: Note - NOT A Recall - Again - NOT A Recall

I have just been informed by the KJW Factory that the Fill Valve Inner Brass Stem - The Long Brass Tube that screws onto the Bottom of the Fill Valve and Extends Into the Gas Chamber - Is Now Slightly Shorter Than Previous Versions!

 

 

1st Gen magazines have the L O N G E R Brass Inner Stem!

 

2nd Gen magazines Now Come Equipped with Slightly Shorter Stems.

 

 

This is due to TK and constant Optimization and Improvements of the KJW M4 - There is NO Reason To Change Out Fill Valves for this Reason Alone. How ever when changing out these valves due to reaching End of Life Cycle then ( This Being Me and ONLY ME - IE: NOT KJW - But Me! ) I recommend replacing with the latest Revision of fill valve. Just to keep the gun up to date and at it's most modern.

 

 

For those of you who are unaware the "Fill Valve" on the KJW M4 Magazines are The SAME Fill Valves that are used on the KJW M9 - Barretta Magazines! Keep that in mind if you need a fill valve and need one quickly as your local airsoft retailer may have these valves on hand.

@ Sacairsoftsn00py

Me too broh, my parts will be on their way shortly - Yeah Baby!

Edited by Raven1
  • Like 1

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Got to the shop early this morning to try an idea out that I came up with last night while lying in bed. Made a new sealing system for the gun and had some pretty neat results. The seal is very tight and precise with the bolt cup and results in the following preliminary results:

 

Gun now cycles reliably with bolt stop function intact at approximately 50psi.

Cycle rate and felt recoil at 120PSI is very noticeably increased. Im hesitant to go higher until I can perform more low pressure testing.

 

Raven1 and I will test this more this afternoon and Ill post back with results. The hope here is that this system will allow very reliable cold weather play and increased gas efficiency for summer play.

 

Ill keep you all posted.

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Shawn, what parts did you order again?

 

 

I just got 2x bolt stops, 2x rubber bands, 2x loading nozzle, 1x flute valve.

 

Those are consumables IMO....something that will end up getting wear and tear after A LOT of rounds. I'm just stocking up so I have it when (or should I say if?) I need them :P

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Hey, do you guys know if I can order a magazine from Clare?

All the retailers seem to be out of mags...

If any of you have mags you don't want, I would be willing to buy them, to actually be able to use my gun appropriately.

Also, t_hum, if you are releasing any form of mag soon, please let me know, as I would definitely go for that, if it's a reasonable price.

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Hey, do you guys know if I can order a magazine from Clare?

All the retailers seem to be out of mags...

If any of you have mags you don't want, I would be willing to buy them, to actually be able to use my gun appropriately.

Also, t_hum, if you are releasing any form of mag soon, please let me know, as I would definitely go for that, if it's a reasonable price.

 

These guys have them in stock: http://poweredgeusa.com/Kuan-Ju-Works/Other-Magazine/KJW-M4A1-GBB-Magazine?keyword=kjw+m4 but they are more costly.

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Raven1 and all, as i new to this system, i'd like to let you know on the following and wish you can advice me how to fix it.

- i found the cycle of the bolt in full auto does not flawlessly work. During the full auto mode, the bolt stopped suddenly with the hammer pushed the firing pin position, and this happened to be a routine when i fired the rifle in full auto mode.

- sometime the bolt stop doesnt work when the mag run out of bbs.

 

as I'm a WETTI M4 user, i felt this kj m4 failed me out of the box. Sorry for my English.

 

thanks!

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Raven1 and all, as i new to this system, i'd like to let you know on the following and wish you can advice me how to fix it.

- i found the cycle of the bolt in full auto does not flawlessly work. During the full auto mode, the bolt stopped suddenly with the hammer pushed the firing pin position, and this happened to be a routine when i fired the rifle in full auto mode.

- sometime the bolt stop doesnt work when the mag run out of bbs.

 

as I'm a WETTI M4 user, i felt this kj m4 failed me out of the box. Sorry for my English.

 

thanks!

 

 

Sounds like your trigger grouping needs to be lubed. Have you done any lubrication to the gun? I highly suggest re-lubing EVERYTHING before using the gun. This goes for everyone else who is planning on buying ANY gun real or not. You always wipe off the old lubrication and douse it in more lubrication.

 

So my understanding is that your BCG (Bolt Carrier Group) is stuck in the forward position, when you open the gun; the hammer (Located in the lower receiver) is in the "fired" position AKA Up and already fired? Sounds like it's either slipping, not engaging all the way that it doesn't lock back, or it is a production flaw.

 

 

Or if you have given up and don't want it anymore... I'll buy it off of you... lol

 

 

Can you supply us with pictures as to what you are looking at please?

Edited by stickyittoyou

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stickyittoyou:

I didn't re-lubing my rifle as i saw it already lubed well. Did you relube yours by dismantling your rifle first? as i understand it's not as easy to dismantle the lower receiver of this KJ as WE m4.

 

Yes, when i fired it in full auto, may be after 4 or 5 bbs it stopped with the hammer in fired position (forward position) like the pic below.

 

IMG_3373.jpg

 

I also notice that on the left and right side of the BC there is a long scratch. I believe it was caused due to friction with the brass cylinder in the stock tube.

 

IMG_3371.jpg

IMG_3369.jpg

 

And about the non-locked back of the BCG when the mag run out of bb, do you think it caused by the brass cylinder in the stock tube which i think it's a bit move forward about 0.4mm?

 

IMG_3374.jpg

 

I also notice about a friction between BCG and the mag.

 

IMG_3375.jpg

 

Fyi, all of the above issues happened within not more than 5 mags as i just bought it on sunday, yesterday.

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stickyittoyou:

I didn't re-lubing my rifle as i saw it already lubed well. Did you relube yours by dismantling your rifle first? as i understand it's not as easy to dismantle the lower receiver of this KJ as WE m4.

 

Yes, when i fired it in full auto, may be after 4 or 5 bbs it stopped with the hammer in fired position (forward position) like the pic below.

 

 

 

I also notice that on the left and right side of the BC there is a long scratch. I believe it was caused due to friction with the brass cylinder in the stock tube.

 

 

 

 

And about the non-locked back of the BCG when the mag run out of bb, do you think it caused by the brass cylinder in the stock tube which i think it's a bit move forward about 0.4mm?

 

 

 

I also notice about a friction between BCG and the mag.

 

 

 

Fyi, all of the above issues happened within not more than 5 mags as i just bought it on sunday, yesterday.

 

 

I actually do not own one yet, sadly. I've just been with this thread for a long time now; but when it comes to lubing a rifle (real steel or not) EVERY moving part and ANY place where there is friction needs to be soaked.

 

 

Have you checked your upper receiver where the BCG slides? I'm wondering if it is worn there; BETTER YET! Check if your forward assist is touching the BCG; in-case someone at the factory accidentally put it in upside down it could be rubbing the BCG.

as for the brass tube here is a picture of the brass tube from page 1. It looks quite normal.DSC01027.jpg

 

There's timing in GBB's ; if the bolt is being slowed down while shooting full auto and it slows down because of something is touching the BCG then the hammer would actually be in the fired position BEFORE the BCG is reset.

As for your bolt catch, you might need a harder spring; or the mags tab

Edited by stickyittoyou

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The first thing you need to check is that your mags are functioning properly. The mags come with a residue covering the valve parts from the factory which jams them up. You'll likey need to disassemble the mags and lube the valves. This will likely fix your firing issues. To test the valve press it in by hand with the mag empty. The valve should instantly snap back when you let go. Any hesitation or stickiness is a sure sign you have varnish and gunk on the valve.

 

The wear you see is normal and happens as the gun gets broken in.

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Stickyittoyou & t_hum:

 

i moved the brass cylinder a bit backward about 0.5mm and somehow it fixed the bolt catch issue perfectly. As to the full auto trouble, I made the sear more centerized and so far it also fixed the trouble as i tested it with 5 mags. Will up date you later whether my rifle has cured or not.

 

Btw, i'm quite impressed with the sound of this cqbr and its accuracy as well !

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Impressed with the accuracy of the gun?

 

Typical... :P

 

I run my bolt carrier dry. I just make sure that the o-ring piston that Cradle Airsoft manufactured is not dry.

 

BTW, what's the temperature out where you are? I have noticed that on both my KJW M4's, if its not warm enough...full auto would seize and would require me to manually cock my gun again. Personally, this does not concern me as I do not use full auto in a game. Also, its summer time here in California :)

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@ Break100

 

 

 

 

From the picture in Post #2118 on Arnie's it shows that the Sear Spring is not providing the proper tension to keep the "Leg" of the Auto Sear against the Selector. In Order for your full auto to work the 'Leg' of the auto sear needs to slide into the selector so the Auto Sear can rotate 'Over' and capture the top of the hammer.

 

 

Essentially The "Leg" of the Auto Sear MUST Always Be Contacting the Selector - If It Is NOT - Then You Need to Rotate the Auto Sear Forward so that it is Contacting the Selector.

 

 

The Auto Sear Spring is very long and Rests on the Hammer Pin. There is a slot on the Hammer Pin that the Auto Sear Spring locks into Keeping the Hammer Pin from sliding in or out. If the Auto Sear Is Not in The Proper Orientation then you will experience full auto issues while Semi Auto Is NOT Affected.

 

 

A Quick Check for Full Auto Functionality:

 

 

Remove Magazine from Gun - Empty Gun - NO Magazine -

Rack - Pull Back Charging Handle - Let The Bolt Carrier Group Move Forward to full battery as normal - Do This Quickly

Move Selector to Full Auto -

Pull Trigger - You Should Hear Hammer Drop -

KEEP Holding Down Trigger -

Pull Charging Handle Back and Hold -

Slowly - Begin to Let Action Spring Pressure Move Bolt Carrier Group forward -

Right Before Bolt Carrier group Comes to Full Battery - Or Fully Seated Forward

You Will Hear The Hammer Drop -

Keep Holding Trigger Down ( You Should Not Have Let Go of the Trigger Yet ) -

 

 

Repeat - 5 X

 

 

You Should Hear Hammer Dropping When Charging Handle / Bolt Carrier Group Nearly Reach Full Battery - Fully Forward

 

 

If You DO NOT Hear the Hammer Drop The Auto Sear Is Not Capturing the Hammer!

 

 

On A New Out of the Box Gun It Is Almost Always Not Properly Assembled at factory and the Auto Sear is NOT Aligned Properly.

 

 

Easily Fixed!

 

 

Another Thing to Note: If You Are In a Desert ( Like I Am Here In Arizona ) I Never Run Oil ANYWHERE On My Gun. In Dry, Dirty, Dusty Conditions it does more harm than good.

 

 

I run Super Lube Grease in the Bolt Cup and Buffer Tube - That Is All You Need for the Gun!

 

 

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761&CAWELAID=323881544

 

 

pACE3-5758517dt.jpg

 

 

For The Magazines Use PURE Silicone Oil - Silicone Oil - NOT RC Shock Oil - Again - NOT RC Shock Oil -

 

 

RC Shock Oil Contains Additives That Will Swell Some Seals Up - Again - Your Rubber Seals May Swell Up - This IS Not A Good Thing!

 

 

 

 

Pure Silicone Oil 30 or 40 Weight Is Good - 3 to 4 Drops onto the main valve and you're Good!

 

 

Push in on the valve 4 or 5 times and watch it disappear into the magazine -

Fill the mag for 2 or 3 seconds and Evacuate the Gas out of the mag -

This will get the excess oil out of the valve and keep your Hop Up Dry and Working Properly! -

 

 

Try Not To Make A Habit of Emptying Fully Gassed Magazines as This Is BAD For Your Valve Seals - They Will Freeze Up, Dry & Crack - Please Don't Do It!

Edited by Raven1

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Raven1,

 

Although i'm still struggling to understand with what you say, zillion thanks for spending your valuable time to attend to my trouble especially with "On A New Out of the Box Gun It Is Almost Always Not Properly Assembled at factory and the Auto Sear is NOT Aligned Properly." So, i wouldn't think that mine was a defected product since Redwolf says that it's the best performance gbbr out of the box smile.gif

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RANGE REPORT

Saturday, May 22nd, 2010

 

0930 Hours

 

Temperature 97F / 36.1C In Sunny Arizona -

 

Propane Gas Used - Coleman Propane Fuel

 

Firing Mode Rapid Fire Semi Auto & Full Auto Fire - 12 Magazines

 

 

Gun State:

 

Functional Parts:

Magpul B.A.D. Lever - Cradle Airsoft Piston - Cradle Airsoft Aluminum Velocity Reducer - Using 'Echo 1' .28 BBs, Cradle Airsoft 6.03 Tight Bore 280mm Length for 10.5" CQB Barrel - CLassic Army Redi-MAg - Lower Now Machined To MILSPEC Dimensions - DSA MILSPEC Buffer Tube, DPMS "H" MILSPEC Buffer, DPMS Buffer Tube Nut, "Summer" Weight Action Spring - Selector Machined To AMBI Selector.

 

Cosmetic Parts:

Magpul M.O.E. Trigger Guard - Magpul M.O.E. Pistol Grip - Magpul A.F.G. - Magpul M.B.U.S. - G&P Defender Front Set - MadBull Noveske KX3 - Magpul A.S.A.P. Plate - Element "Surprise Cock Fag" Dust Cover - EbayBAnned T-1 Replica w/Larue Mount - Magpul MILSPEC C.T.R. Stock

 

Played another day of Airball and ran the gun as usual.

 

Although I wouldn't recommend doing this BUT - I "Borrowed" another KJW M4 User's BCG and went to the Chrono station and chrono'd with his BCG as I was too lazy to set mine up at the moment. Sure did come in handy though and please don't forget to use the Velocity reducer of your choice to keep you out of trouble on the field!

 

The game play was one very well thought out, with set objectives and goals. I had replaced the Upper receiver a few weeks back as my front pivot pin hole or ear had broken off and I needed to replace it. I noted my hop up assembly housing ( the part that holds the Hop Up Arm to the Upper Receiver ) needed a little adjustment. The hop up arm was not being cradled by the assembly and I noticed as the wheel - dial was turned to set hop up that the hop up arm was moving off center / diagonally / at an angle. So I removed the assembly, crimped it tighter with a pair of channel lock pliers until the hop up arm had tension on both sides. Now when the assembly was all together the hop up arm moved perfectly linear / straight up and down.

 

I also found that the o-ring that sets on the assembly screw that fastens the Dial Wheel to the upper receiver had been torn. This o-ring provides a slight tension so the dial wheel will not come loose during operation. 1st the attempt was made to install while broken as it merely provides tension. However the o-ring did cause some binding issues and did Not allow the dial wheel to move freely. The decision was made to install the fastener screw with out the o-ring. The screw did fully seat and fasten down tight and allow the dial wheel to move freely with no issues. Once again the hop up was set and I forgot about it.

 

On the field the gun handled as normal and noted no shooting or handling issues.

 

Several times reloads were made with magazine falling down to the dirt during fire fights. When time and opportunity permitted the magazines were retrieved and reloaded.

 

Did not encounter any magazine issues during the day.

 

Interesting thing to note was it was a very windy day, I found that the GBBRs on the field fared better than the AEGs as the BBs seemed to have better flight paths. There were 3 KJW M4s on the field that I'm happy to say!

 

Hop up performance was as expected and thanks to the tight bore shot groupings were tight and consistent. Being a bit of a *rickroll* that day and elected to go with only head shots as there were some Super Men on the field who were impervious to enemy fire. Once the transition to head shots was made shots were called fairly quickly and loudly. I mean C'Mon I'm Only Running 2 Mags Here!! The satisfying feeling was the closest engagement distance was at 35 yards and these shots were on several people in quick succession. Mini-Support can confirm the multiple hits on target and laughed when 1 tried to run off and I hit him in the fatty part of the neck as it meets the back of the head!

 

Good Times!!

 

 

Thanks Again for your interest,,,

 

Total Magazines Expended = 12

 

Total Fire To Bolt Stop = 0 - No Bolt Catch Installed

 

3 BB Load To 1 Gas Fill

 

Total Issues / Incidents Encountered / Bolt Stop Related= 0

 

Total Round Count = 14,032

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