Jump to content

Recommended Posts

my RA-Tech piston ring (part no. 9) of the piston cup was ripped last week...That's the reason my M4 stopped cycling, the broken ring snagged the edge of the V1 bolt cylinder and even chipping off a small chunk. Ugh.

 

CJ, gotta try one of those piston rings of yours...I already busted two rings, the stock and the RA Tech...kept the RA Tech for now, rotated it so that the damaged portion is not aligned with the chipped part of the cylinder and then greased it thoroughly..works for now but I am not holding my breath...

 

Once I get my hands on a Cradle Velocity Reducer though, I will use my V2 BCG for our low fps games and just put my V1 BCG in reserve...along with its bent RA Tech Npas and chipped RA Tech piston ring...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 5.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

Posted Images

Odds on its not coming from there, I had a leak that sounded it was coming from the release valve. It turned out the mid-section o- ring was leaking. Strip, clean, regrease, rebuild.

Its an easy gas mag to work on. ;)

 

replaced the mid section ring but theres still leak, disassembled everything and nothing seems wrong, the other o ring in the valve too are still in a very good condition. I dont know where the sounds are coming from but do anyone here have problems with the valve yet? Do I need to change it?

Link to post
Share on other sites

That sounds great. Let me know how much it would be for two or three if at all possible.

I would be in for 2.... :punk:

 

@Kai_wolf and Johnyew, It is cheaper to send by normal post mail but will take around 7 to 10 days to reach you.

I can send you CJ's Solution Piston Ring/Cup for KJW TK GBBr (Part no.9) for 3USD each + 2USD for normal postal mail.

I have not check the cost of normal postal mail but It should be around 2USD only.

You can pay me in my paypal account. Let me know your order confirmation. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

im wondering if i should get another one and just adjust it before i install it? or get the cradle one? and saying this is it worth getting the cradle piston cup and using that to replace the X type piston thing that the new ones seem to come with?

 

Just get the Cradle Velocity Adjuster. the RA-Tech NPAS will become unusable as mine did... My Cradle is working perfect though!

38e18a2a.jpg

df502156.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Sorry but are you sure thats okay for the mag? I mean there wont be anything rusty after that would it?

 

Yup. As a matter of fact I've been submerging my Mag for the past 3 years, sometimes even in murky waters during MILSIM games and i never lubed the springs. So far they are still ok with no jams whatsoever.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, got my new version bolt in. No pictures needed as others already posted some. What I really would like is a walk through on how to disassemble and reassemble the bolt assembly. I'm too scared at the moment to start anything and possibly loose/strip/break something. I want to install my velocity reducer in it to play this weekend. Besides the bolt assembly here's my thoughts on the other items included in the kit.

 

-V2 bolt catch is necessary (I highly think) as it provides clearance for the bolt to cycle properly.

-V2 buffer, no comment as I haven't gave it a good look, only noticed the raised head. I might weigh the two just to see if there's a difference.

 

Edit: Just thought of something. Raised surface on face of buffer might be to seat against the bolt carrier.

Edited by WTF?Shane
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am using a V1 bolt catch with a V2 bolt and though cyling is fine, I am noticing some strange hang ups and stiffness when trying to slap the paddle to send the bolt home. This might be why it is better to use V2. I need to pick one up.

 

Exactly. I noticed it when function testing the new bolt. When racking the charging handle, it would snag. I thought it was because it needed to be worn in. So I just racked it faster so it didn't snag. With a magazine in, it fired and cycled fine. Thinking about it, seeing as they provided me with a new bolt catch, it needed to be replaced.

Edited by WTF?Shane
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cj's Instruction:

KJW Tanio Koba M4 GBBr V2 Bolt Disassembly.

Includes instruction on how to replace piston ring (part no. 9)

IMAG0785copy.jpg

 

1. Push the pin out using small screwdriver:

IMAG0786copy.jpg

 

2. Pull the bolt face halfway then push the plastic guide outward as shown in the picture below

IMAG0787copy.jpg

 

3. Pull the plastic guide out using pliers as shown in the pictures below:

IMAG0788copy.jpg

IMAG0789copy.jpg

 

4. Pull the bolt out away from the bolt carrier.

note: the cylinder spring is a *badgeress* so you will have to pull the bolt harder until the spring pops-out.

note: piston ring shown below was already upgraded with Cj's Solution Piston Ring (part no.9)

IMAG0791copy.jpg

Comparison between stock Piston ring and Cj's Solution Piston ring:

IMAG0793copy-1.jpg

IMAG0795copy-1.jpg

 

5. Remove the stock piston ring (part no.9) with flat screwdriver

IMAG0799copy-1.jpg

 

Replace the stock piston ring with Cj's Solution piston ring:

IMAG0801copy-1.jpg

IMAG0802copy-1.jpg

 

6. To disassemble the bolt head, Unscrew this pin:

IMAG0807copy-1.jpg

 

7. Push the second small pin out

IMAG0805copy-1.jpg

Detailed location of the pin protruding out

IMAG0809copy-1.jpg

 

8. Now you can take it apart (cylnder spring, piston body, floating valve and bolt face)

IMAG0810copy-1.jpg

 

9. Complete picture of disassembled V2 Bolt:

IMAG0813copy-1.jpg

 

End. Thank you!

Edited by Cj Radge
Link to post
Share on other sites

CJ, awesome guide. I took mine apart the other day and instead of popping out the pin in step 1, I unscrewed the pin in step 6. This made it a quite challenging when trying to put back together. I'll try out your method next time I need to open it up. Thanks for the picture instruction.

 

Jackster, contact sales@kjworks.com.tw

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.