delarosa Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 My upper receiver broke just now, anyone have any solution other than ordering from kjw? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The change to stop that wasn't the bolt it was the retainer had the catch on the top of it cut back to allow the bolt to take the load from the buffer spring rather than it catching on the retainer. Hard to see from the pics on my phone but looks like the retainer is fitted back to front? The hump bit on the top that holds the buffer is cut back on the newer retainers check your other rifle ( only 1mm or so. But that looks like the bump is cut back from the front of the retainer. Â Cheers for the reply Kenny, that makes sense. Ive checked the retainers on both my KJW's and the newest one is slimmer but seems to have a more robust protruding piece to retain the spring buffer. The older one has been modifed by hand to allow the buffer to come further forward, however, it does not seem to have been a permanent fix! There also seems to be a piece of material added infront of the retainer, I assume its to negate movement caused by the break and push the retainer closer to its original position. So on my list of items to pick up from KJW should be a new lower and a new style retainer piece! Â cheers J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cj Radge Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) My upper receiver broke just now, anyone have any solution other than ordering from kjw? Â Â This is not the most good looking fix but this will allow you to use your gun again until you finally made your decision to buy new lower reciever. ZIP Tie is your friend Just zip tie the upper and lower reciever together. Edited July 17, 2012 by Cj Radge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012   This is not the most good looking fix but this will allow you to use your gun again until you finally made you decision to but new lower reciever. ZIP Tie is your friend  Suppose I get my hands on a new upper, is there any way to prevent it from breaking again? Some say RATech magic pin will do the trick, is it true that the magic pin will help minimize the tension in the back part by tightening the pin in the front part of the receiver? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cj Radge Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 @delarosa, Usually I do not post If I don't know the answer to prevent over flooding and let someone who really knows the answer take care of it. But I felt responsible in replying to your question because it was directed to me. Â I do not know if RATech magic pin will do the trick, I have not owned or used one. From what I read somewhere, the purpose of it is to prevent gaps or play between upper and lower reciever. But it does make sense that it will help minimize the tension in the back part by tightening the pin in the front part of the receiver. Â Let someone who owned and tested this provide accurate answer. Anybody? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 @delarosa, Usually I do not post If I don't know the answer to prevent over flooding and let someone who really knows the answer take care of it. But I felt responsible in replying to your question because it was directed to me. Â I do not know if RATech magic pin will do the trick, I have not owned or used one. From what I read somewhere, the purpose of it is to prevent gaps or play between upper and lower reciever. But it does make sense that it will help minimize the tension in the back part by tightening the pin in the front part of the receiver. Â Let someone who owned and tested this provide accurate answer. Anybody? Â Thanks for replying Cj. Im currently ordering new parts from kjw, in the mean time I'll stick to the ziptie. Anyone else have any inputs regarding prevention of upper receiver breakage or the magic pin? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 From how the magic pin works I'd say no. As it works with a separate middle part that pulls the front tabs forward and down as you tighten the pin. Pulling the front like this will if anything cause more tension on the part that has snapped off. Â I'd never use a magic pin to reduce play between the upper and lower. My project KJW stubby had a lot of play. So I put some super glue on the faces of the front and rear tabs (if I'd had epoxy I'd have used that). Let it set then removed some of the lumps with fine sand paper. Now there is zero play in the upper and lower. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cj Radge Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Good info weekeny in the magic pins. That will help. Â For the play between Upper and Lower, I put thin plastic strip between the L and U reciever. No play whatsover. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Trouble with that solution CJ is that it again will put more tension on the tab for the rear pin. Â With using glue to effectively thicken the tabs as I have done there is no extra tension on the tabs. But since the tabs are snug in the lower play is removed. Â However my method will not help if you have an upper and lower that don't meet well and have a gap visible it will only reduce play. In my opinion the gap isnt as bad as play the gap is due to the postion of the holes being a little off in the lower or tabs. Play is due to the tabs being a loose fit in the lower. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 How bout adding some thin iron plate on the curve below the end of the bolt where the thing snapped of? Will that be better? By adding I mean make it stick with steel glue or other means. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 You mean sticking it inside the lower? If so then yes that would work there is a RS part called the accu wedge that slots into the lower where the rear tab goes in to take out play. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SixCell Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Can someone xplain to me the diffrence of V.1 Bolt vs. V.2 bolt? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Ive recently been looking at an inner barrel which is not specifically made for the KJW M4, it comes in 2 types: AEG and VSR type. Â I've read on here and from looking at my own that the KJW Inner barrel is indeed closer in looks to a VSR style barrel but can anyone confirm if a VSR type barrel is a 'drop in' fit or is it easier to mod an AEG barrel to fit? Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Ive recently been looking at an inner barrel which is not specifically made for the KJW M4, it comes in 2 types: AEG and VSR type. Â I've read on here and from looking at my own that the KJW Inner barrel is indeed closer in looks to a VSR style barrel but can anyone confirm if a VSR type barrel is a 'drop in' fit or is it easier to mod an AEG barrel to fit? Â VSR isn't going to fit. AEG is easier to mod for sure but probably still requires a lathe unless you are super handy with a dremel or file. Â Suppose I get my hands on a new upper, is there any way to prevent it from breaking again? Some say RATech magic pin will do the trick, is it true that the magic pin will help minimize the tension in the back part by tightening the pin in the front part of the receiver? Â Ive only seen a few breaks like this. The causes could be numerous and aren't well documented so any *fix* is going to be a guess at best. Your best bet is to get a new upper from KJW and keep using it like you always have. FWIW, I think the break is a result of a pot metal of dubious alloy upper with small inclusions. Its a material issue. They could fix it by beefing up the tab or using a better material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theme57 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Can someone xplain to me the diffrence of V.1 Bolt vs. V.2 bolt? Â From what I know the V2 doesnt use the band, is a bit longer and has a different loading nozzle. Also I think it might be heavier too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 My mate just got a V2 and oddly enough it has a V1 upper? The forward assist is held in with a roll pin rather than the usual pin with the splined end. Bit of an odd ball really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 @weekeny and thum Thanks guys for the reply, I'll be using my broken upper and find some possible fix as welll as experimenting on the tdc mod. Â So is the v2 upper using better materials? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theme57 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 @weekeny and thum Thanks guys for the reply, I'll be using my broken upper and find some possible fix as welll as experimenting on the tdc mod. Â So is the v2 upper using better materials? Â No idea, Landa has had some issues with his, but I prefer the V1 for a number of reasons im sure most can agree on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) @Theme  Are you talking bout the upper or the bolt? Just to make sure because your last post was about the bolt. If you're talking bout the upper then I need to make sure KJW send me the v1 instead. Edited July 18, 2012 by delarosa Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Landa Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 So t hum, where you able to begin work on the bolts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 V2 uppers are better they have thicker front lugs. Other than that the seem identical. Â Bolt wise V1's are more durable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delarosa Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 V2 uppers are better they have thicker front lugs. Other than that the seem identical. Â Bolt wise V1's are more durable. Â Ah ic, ok then I'll get a v2 upper instead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 You'll need the V2 piece that goes between the lugs and holds the hop arm in place as its narrower to account for the wider lugs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SixCell Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 V2 uppers are better they have thicker front lugs. Other than that the seem identical. Â Bolt wise V1's are more durable. Â KJW has stopped making V1 bolt, so V2 for me :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theme57 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 That blows major, why would KJW drink the kool aid? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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