s85sss Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 which tool do you use to disassembly the safety? the screws are thinner than a 1mm exagonal key. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Posted back in June so it's a bit buried... .89mm hex http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=171694&st=240&p=2338505entry2338505 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 Posted back in June so it's a bit buried... .89mm hex http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=171694&st=240&p=2338505&&do=findComment&comment=2338505 I too was wondering and saw that reply, but I can't for the life of me find a hex that small to buy. ANyone know of a retailer that has those, preferably in Europe (more specifically Sweden) Been reading thru all of the thread and I got a stock TM right now ready to get upgraded with every peice of kit there is. I will take a gamble on the guarder kit + creation inner slide. I got a bit colder climate over here and wont fire it too much I guess. Anyways, where to get the .89 hex in EU/SWE ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Quick look and only places are in the US, and none like to ship out. If you know someone with a CYMA G18C AEP or KSC G18C/23F, those come with the Allen wrench you need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Quick look and only places are in the US, and none like to ship out. If you know someone with a CYMA G18C AEP or KSC G18C/23F, those come with the Allen wrench you need. Man o man, would hate for my upgrade to come to a stand still beceause of a tiny piece of metal.. Dont know anyone with either of those guns... The sad thing is when I look around alot of sites state 0.035" as 0.9mm (or vice versa) when in fact 0.035" is 0.889mm. I dont wanna buy keys stated to be 0.035" only to find them being 0.9mm... Any kind soul in the US that can help me out? I can pay via paypal :| Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Well they're $0.15 at McMaster...but shipping from us is going to cost infinitely more LOL... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Well they're $0.15 at McMaster...but shipping from us is going to cost infinitely more LOL... Allright I will give it one more try to source one locally, if I cant I will post back in hopes that someone can help me out. Shipping isnt really a concern for me if its the only way i have to get the key. It's not like its gonna be 100USD shipping, maybe 5-20$, which i can live with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 If you can get the 0.035" wrenches, those will do. A 0.01mm difference can be sorted out with a file under a minute. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 I think it's funny you can't get access to the .89 mm hex as the company I ordered mine from is based in Sweden. I had to wait for a shipment to come in from the plant before I could get them shipped out from the office here in the US. I can't remember their name but I'll see if I can find it and let you know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Problem solved, improvised with a Torx T3, worked OK if you aspplied pressure from the top. Thanks alot anyways! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Problem solved, improvised with a Torx T3, worked OK if you aspplied pressure from the top. Thanks alot anyways! Just to clarify this. Metric 0.9mm is not the same as imperial 0.035". 0.035" comes out 0.889mm. a 0.9mm metric hex did not fit and i could not make it work with a file either (maybe i had bad luck with materials on file vs. hex key). Anyways. Imperial 0.035" or torx T3 will get the job done, where the 0.035" hex is the correct tool. I finished my upgrade today and I am very please. With all the things I put into it I believe i have a well balanced and durable gun. If you wish to see more details, here is my other thread : http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=191565&st=0&gopid=2395787& Just a quick outtake from what I figured. The use of the creation slide, in a stock slide or a Guarder slide without the 130% spring will turn out to be a minor disaster IMO. Without the 130% spring the kickback had me scared it was going to break in an instant. In combination with the Guarder slide, Creation Inner Alu Side and 130% spring + upgraded floating internal valve + upgraded mag valve it feels like a very well balanced and solid/durable gun. I do not intent to put any large amounts of BBs thru it so I wont be a good judge of long term durability, but it feels solid for now, vs. the stock gun or the upgraded gun without the 130% spring. FYI I run green gas. I put the following parts in mine : Guarder polycarbonate body and slide black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5705BK Guarder stainless steel outer barrel http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5709 Guarder custom parts black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-PT-FN5706BK MAG spring replacement kit http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=MAG-ACC-SMFN57 Laylax smooth recoil ring http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=NB-PT-FNSRR PDI piston head http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=PDI-PT-FN57PH Nine Ball 6.03 precision inner barrel http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5624 RCC recoil spring (70% & 130%) http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5334 Creation Airsoft aluminum inside slide http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6163 Firefly cylinder valve set http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/firefly-cylinder-valve-set-for-marui-fn5-7-gbb-pistol.html Thanks for all the help and an awesome thread! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) Anyone know where to get kydex mag pouches,other than Raven Concealment (if I order mag pouches I might as well get a holster, and my wife would kill me...lol) I remember there being a link earlier but I can't find it now. Edited November 25, 2010 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PianoBlack Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Blade-Tech makes some but they might be standard plastic: http://www.blade-tech.com/Double-Magazine-Pouch-with-Tek-Lok-pr-863.html Just scroll through the drop down menu. You might be able to contact Sidearmor and see if they're making pouches. I'm trying to figure out which holster I want from them. -Piano Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 (edited) Okaaay... So the notches that hold the outer barrel on my hop-Up chamber finally broke. Anyone aware of places I could find a replacement? I asked TokyoModel that have replacement parts on their shop, but they are out of stock... (Seems that lots of peoples' chambers have been braking down) Other than that and a broken outer barrel which I replaced with a Guarder steel one, my 5-7 has shot more than 2000 rounds without any other problems (Except leaking mags witch is really easy to fix) Edited November 28, 2010 by Atsalakotos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Look back in this thread regarding the silicone sealant fix by renegadecow - it's the next best option until someone makes a CNC'ed chamber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Look back in this thread regarding the silicone sealant fix by renegadecow - it's the next best option until someone makes a CNC'ed chamber. Yeah, I have read through the whole thread but my chamber's notches are already broken completely... I dont mind using another stock chamber, since it will last me another 3-4 months. I just need to find a shop that actually sells them... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 So it eventually broke despite the sealant fix? I'm not having any more wear on mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 (edited) I think he's saying he didn't do the fix. I haven't had problems with mine since the fix either. Also, had an idea: Duke's ME department supposedly has a 3D scanner and printer, so I was thinking to get a tougher plastic material and basically redo all of the control parts. So far (at least with Guarder parts) I've had the mag catch, slide catch, and QD button all break/wear down on me. Issue is I need an idea on what type of tougher plastic to use. Any ideas? Edited November 29, 2010 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Well, in that case I just thought up of a way to salvage that broken hop chamber (all in theory of course). Clean out what's left of the two nubs that used to hold the outer barrel. Drill out two small holes in their place with a countersink on the outside. Then drill out new holes on the outer barrel adjacent to the original holes and tap them with small countersunk screws. Basically, you're replacing the nubs with screws. Just did a quick check on my piece and the screw heads shouldn't show from the ejection port. On the 3D scanner/printer, aren't those limited to using polystyrene just to make molds out of? In which case, you might just be better off molding the stock parts directly. But if it can use other plastics, try lexan maybe. It's also a form of polycarbonate but hell of a lot stronger than whatever Guarder uses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 So it eventually broke despite the sealant fix? I'm not having any more wear on mine. No, I didnt do the fix... Will do that when I get a new chamber though! Well, in that case I just thought up of a way to salvage that broken hop chamber (all in theory of course). Clean out what's left of the two nubs that used to hold the outer barrel. Drill out two small holes in their place with a countersink on the outside. Then drill out new holes on the outer barrel adjacent to the original holes and tap them with small countersunk screws. Basically, you're replacing the nubs with screws. Just did a quick check on my piece and the screw heads shouldn't show from the ejection port. Well, if i dont find a replacement soon I guess I will have to try your idea, thanks for the answers. On the 3D scanner/printer, aren't those limited to using polystyrene just to make molds out of? In which case, you might just be better off molding the stock parts directly. But if it can use other plastics, try lexan maybe. It's also a form of polycarbonate but hell of a lot stronger than whatever Guarder uses. I havent had any problems with my stock controls, despite having the thing for over a year. Only part I see problematic would be the plastic Mag Catch that has started wearing off on mine, which I would love to see made out of steel... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I havent had any problems with my stock controls, despite having the thing for over a year. Only part I see problematic would be the plastic Mag Catch that has started wearing off on mine, which I would love to see made out of steel... No, they are restricted to printing in polymers, but some can use very high density polymers, although that is still not what we are looking for. MakerBot can very cheaply make a mold/positive for us if someone has one though, and we can send it off someplace for production. The best option is for someone to scan it in in 3D and then print one off on a CNC milling machine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Just for the record I would be interested in purchasing such a part. I saw someone earlier in this thread talking about having a CNC contact or such. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Wait, you can "print" CAD images on a CNC machine? 0_0. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 (edited) Well no, you can mill it out... I used the wrong word. A 3D scanner can collect data in many different formats, often times in a format that a milling machine can interpret, it's all just XYZ data, you just have to establish the right plane and origin, and format it properly (I know that's highly simplified). Edited November 29, 2010 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Ugh. I need to spend some time in Spring semester to learn machining/3D works more XD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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