TM FN Five-seveN GBB

[bankz5152]

I mouleded it myself. Easy to do, hes right 2mm thick A4 size Kydex sheet. Comes in a nice variance of colours incl Carbon Fibre.

[PianoBlack]

Which outer barrel seems to be the best in terms of not deforming? I was going to get the MAG stainless steel model, but after Kai's experiences, I'm thinking twice. Also, how well does Guarder's 10mm threaded barrel function with its silencer adapter?

 

-Piano

[Wingman]

I've had 2 MAG Stainless Steel Barrels in my 2 TM Five Sevens for several months and have been shooting the heck out of them. I just disassembled both pistols and there is zero warping or elongation of the holes.

 

I've heard that there might be some problems if you dont install the barrell corectly by not using the rubber O-ring that comes with the barrel. Apparently some believe this is a extra O-ring for the other end (muzzle end). It's actually a tiny bit larger in diameter and it's made only for the firing chamber end. This helps cushin the impact on the barrel as well as make it a tight fit.

[PianoBlack]

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully my plethora of parts arrives by the end of next week (I found the creation inner frame at one site, but another had the rest of the parts I wanted with cheaper shipping, and a third site had parts I wanted to get for another pistol).

 

-Piano

[renegadecow]

Was curious of the condition of my MAG barrel with you guys talking about it and decided to open up my pistol again. I found no wear what so ever on the barrel itself, however the hop chamber looks like its taking a beating. The posts holding the barrel appears to have been hammered forward and inward. I've temporarily fixed it by lightly hammering the protruding material back to where it came from.

I've also reversed the two o-rings to see if it makes any difference (larger o-ring now acting as buffer). Also notice the notches holding the inner barrel are completely sheared off on mine. Periodic cleaning revealed metal filing in the area presumably from the nubs until they were completely gone.

Edited July 15, 2010 by renegadecow

[jotohomomoto]

okay, so i was wondering if any of you FiveseveN owners have this very annoying problem:

 

The nature of a back-up weapon is for it to be holstered (I use a RS SERPA btw and its great!) When I go to fire my pistol after it has sat a awhile the first couple of shots don't cycle all the way sometimes causing a stoppage. I have to re-rack the gun to get it to fire correctly. Once the gun starts shooting everything is fine and the gun cycles completely.

I think the nozzle gets stuck in the hop-up chamber and once a couple of shots are fired the nozzle doesn't get stuck anymore allowing for normal cycling. I think this happens because I use propane/green gas and the increased power has jammed the nozzle into the hop-up barrel over time and so there is ever so slight wear on the tip of the nozzle causing it to get stuck inside the hop-up barrel.

I don't know if I'm using the correct terminology so I'd be glad to elaborate if what I'm saying is not clear.

I have invested a lot in this gun (SERPA, tightbore, mags, etc.) and I love the gun, so I definately want to fix it as this problem has only just begun. I've had to use my back-up, back-up; my WE KnightHawk Custom and it only holds 15 rounds and I can't use my SERPA.

Anyways, you're suggestions are appreciated.

[renegadecow]

Got nothing to do with the nozzle. Both my mags do the same and its the o-ring on the valve. O-rings get worn out in time, some faster than others and it also depends on how they were treated. What happens is that when you let the gun sit for a while, the gas pressure pushes fully on the o-ring so that it eventually conforms to the shape of the nozzle. While this provides a leak-proof seal, it will also be harder to open because of the increased surface area that the o-ring is making contact with the valve. Mine started out light striking the first round then would be ok the following shots. Then it got worse that I'd need to manually cycle the gun 5 or so times before it gets to speed, at which point I'd have been shot already. Swapped out the o-rings with slightly fatter ones (1.75mm against 1.5mm) and it works like a charm right from the get go. You could also try flipping the o-ring to its other side for a temporary fix.

[PianoBlack]

Five-SeveN arrived today. I'm extremely pleased with it. I experienced some instances of the slide failing to lock back when empty on duster gas, but solved it via lubricating the BB follower. It chronographed at 230fps with next to no variation for the first mag.

 

-Piano

[jotohomomoto]

Got nothing to do with the nozzle. Both my mags do the same and its the o-ring on the valve. O-rings get worn out in time, some faster than others and it also depends on how they were treated. What happens is that when you let the gun sit for a while, the gas pressure pushes fully on the o-ring so that it eventually conforms to the shape of the nozzle. While this provides a leak-proof seal, it will also be harder to open because of the increased surface area that the o-ring is making contact with the valve. Mine started out light striking the first round then would be ok the following shots. Then it got worse that I'd need to manually cycle the gun 5 or so times before it gets to speed, at which point I'd have been shot already. Swapped out the o-rings with slightly fatter ones (1.75mm against 1.5mm) and it works like a charm right from the get go. You could also try flipping the o-ring to its other side for a temporary fix.

 

thanx!!! I would have never thought of that. I'll have to try that out.

[bankz5152]

This is odd. Many people seem to be having trouble with their 5.7s such as the outer barrel warping and the problem above.

 

However Ive purchased mine in January and put around 1K - 2.5K rounds though and not had a single problem. Only upgrades are the POM recoil ring thingy, which does make for a smoother recoil, Ive got the PDI piston head but yet to install. Ive also been running it about 90% of the time on Propane even on 25C+ days (hotest was 31C @ Forest Labs) with no trouble.

 

Shooting at 283fps .25g aswell which was very nice .

 

Im almost certain that none of the above problems have happend to mine yet but I will take another look when i get home.

[jotohomomoto]

This is odd. Many people seem to be having trouble with their 5.7s such as the outer barrel warping and the problem above.

 

However Ive purchased mine in January and put around 1K - 2.5K rounds though and not had a single problem. Only upgrades are the POM recoil ring thingy, which does make for a smoother recoil, Ive got the PDI piston head but yet to install. Ive also been running it about 90% of the time on Propane even on 25C+ days (hotest was 31C @ Forest Labs) with no trouble.

 

Shooting at 283fps .25g aswell which was very nice .

 

Im almost certain that none of the above problems have happend to mine yet but I will take another look when i get home.

 

I love this gun. I love the real steel version too but I can't afford it at the time. I took apart the hop-up barrel and looked at the stock outter barrell and noticed the infamous "warping" that everyone is talking about but it doesn't effect the shooting in anyway that I can tell. The above stated problem is definately the FIRST problem i've had and I'm definately willing to work with it.

This gun has enamoured me to TM pistols and look forward to the Glock 18!!

[thundercat]

im assuming the barrel warping you are all on about is what as been causing my 5-7 to stick partly back and not cycle forwards, after about 5 mags have been put through it.

 

where would i get a steel outter barrel to solve this problem

[PianoBlack]

I've had 2 MAG Stainless Steel Barrels in my 2 TM Five Sevens for several months and have been shooting the heck out of them. I just disassembled both pistols and there is zero warping or elongation of the holes.

 

I've heard that there might be some problems if you dont install the barrell corectly by not using the rubber O-ring that comes with the barrel. Apparently some believe this is a extra O-ring for the other end (muzzle end). It's actually a tiny bit larger in diameter and it's made only for the firing chamber end. This helps cushin the impact on the barrel as well as make it a tight fit.

 

Was the o-ring that comes with the barrel installed on it like the muzzle end or free-floating in the packaging? I received a MAG stainless steel barrel in the mail today and it only had the o-ring around the barrel in the wrapper. If there is another o-ring that was supposed to be included, can you describe its dimensions?

 

Thanks,

-Piano

[The Vainguard]

They need to make a CNCed Steel Hopup unit to go along with the barrel... Hmmm my 5-7 project is gonna be fun.

[renegadecow]

If it helps, I've found a technique in preserving the hop chamber and barrel from damage. Credit goes to Tunabreath from Airsoft Canada. I've done the method myself long before on my stock barrel (it works) and simply forgot to do it again when I installed the new MAG barrel.

 

Basically you need a tube of silicone gasket maker, the black RTV kind and not the red high-temp variety.

So you open up your barrel assembly and separate the inner/outer barrels from the hop chamber. Degrease (soap and water or alcohol) all contacts between the barrels and hop. Apply some sealant on the hop chamber (both sides) where it comes into contact with the barrels all the way up until it meets the hop rubber. Reinstall the barrels and hop components and firmly squeeze together the assembly into place while cleaning up after the excess sealant bound to ooze out. Let cure overnight and it should be good to go. The point is that the sealant acts as an adhesive and shock absorber. The damage occurring to the barrel assembly actually happens over a long period of time as the small gaps in tolerances mash up against each other from the excessive recoil; the sealant fills in these gaps and cushions the impact.

 

There are of course a number of other problems as encountered by Tunabreath which I don't know if I should discuss here. Despite these breakages they don't seem to affect the overall performance and durability of the gun and I'd only sound like a scare monger to the hopefuls wishing to own the gun.

edit:

A fair amount of sealant may also find its way to where the recoil spring goes into. You'd need to pick this area clean with a tooth pick or shove the spring in while the sealant is still wet hoping to get most of the gunk out (and clean the spring after).

Edited July 18, 2010 by renegadecow

[Wingman]

The O ring that comes with the MAG Barrel is the one that must be used at the other end of the barrel. You have to use the O ring that is on the Marui barrel for the muzzle end (it is smaller diameter and keeps the recoil spring cap from popping off. The MAG O ring is wider and is not made to keep the spring cap in place.).

[aznriptide859]

Anyone having issues transferring the BBU to a Guarder slide? I found my nozzle moves freely in the Tm slide, but not my Gurader slide.

[PianoBlack]

I noticed that last night when I was installing the slide. While it doesn't really affect the performance or funtionality, it was rather odd.

 

-Piano

[aznriptide859]

Well I got mine working . Sanded the two nubs on the sides of the nozzle a bit, then bended the BBU guide rails out a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[renegadecow]

My Guarder slide just split at the front, same spot as where the stock Marui gave way (seam). So either I'm the unluckiest 5-7 user or the Guarder enhanced slide/frame sets aren't really made of polycarbonate. Will try to fix it by melting in a staple from the inside as I've fixed a Desert Eagle this way.

[jotohomomoto]

My Guarder slide just split at the front, same spot as where the stock Marui gave way (seam). So either I'm the unluckiest 5-7 user or the Guarder enhanced slide/frame sets aren't really made of polycarbonate. Will try to fix it by melting in a staple from the inside as I've fixed a Desert Eagle this way.

 

So was it hard to take a part your 5-7 and get it into those Guarder shells? I'm looking at doing the folilage green one but it would only be for fun.

[aznriptide859]

The only hard part is installing the BBU, since it's almost completely friction fit besides from the screw holding it with the rear sight. Lots of prying involved...>.<

[nikoneko]

just noticed on my guarder framed 5-7 that the hammer component was loose and noticed that the 2 screws holding it down weren't tight..so I gently tried to tighten them up and found that both screws turned freely without stopping(as though the threads were stripped) So I tooked them out saw that the threads on the screws were fine and took out the whole hammer component and found out the 2 female holes molded into the frame had cracked and on one of them the whole half just broke off. I don't think these guarder kits are any more "reinforced" than the marui ones, possibly even less. And mind you, when I put this kit together I was very sensitive about not overtightening screws into plastic female threads. Also I've only put 2 mags(GG) into this gun. very disappointing...back to metal bodied guns...

[renegadecow]

^

Happened to mine also, but easily fixed with super glue. Other than material composition, I blame the screws. The screws on the 5-7 aren't self-tapping so forcing them to gouge threads into the frame could have cause it to wedge and eventually split.

 

Update on my Guarder slide: glued and melted in a spring wire staple on the inside. Haven't fired it yet as I've repainted the front.

[The Vainguard]

I just bought and paid for a TM57 can't wait to run into my own issues

 

Renegade - Where can I get the sealant? Will home depot do?