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TM FN Five-seveN GBB

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I'd personally trust MAG more than Guarder for the outer barrel.

 

That said no other GBB I've used kicks harder than the 5-7 - none of my Glocks even hold a candle to the beast.

 

MAG it is, thanks bud.

 

I think I will leave my controls the standard grey Tokyo Marui parts as I think they look the best with a black body kit.

 

Also, what would be the best way to file down the valve knocker? Metal file? Fine sandpaper?

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Thought I should put this up; I did the valve knocker mod to my 5-7. It's getting really hot nowadays and I'm thinking it's not the best idea to wait for my stock slide to explode before replacing it again simply because small parts may fly out and become lost (in my face). I removed approximately 0.35-0.40mm off the knocker and will chrono it later to find out just how reduced the power is. From estimating, it's kicking just a little more than it was with 134a (no mod) on a hot day, which is still plenty as far as GBB pistols go. I also did the sealant mod on the BBU slide rails and has reduced slide rattle considerably.

To access the knocker, undo the two screws holding the hammer assembly to the frame. Pull the assembly up and out. Be careful of the knocker disconnector and it's spring on the left side of the assembly as they can fall right off. Undo the two screws, right side on the opposite corners of the assembly. Split the assembly in half and you can pull out the hammer and valve knocker. Take note of the orientation of the pin holding the hammer. It has a recessed part where the hammer spring should sit in so as to keep it from moving when assembled.

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Didn't bother to take a pic of the knocker after filing as the difference is hard to see (about as thin as the light green line on my mat). USE A CALIPER WHEN MEASURING THIS as taking off more than 1mm can make the gun inoperable. Don't just hack away and guess how much you've taken off already.

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To add to the list of mag pouches, BFG ten speed pistol mag pouches will hold 5-7 mags. They are a PITA to insert (well it takes more effort than normal), but they do go in without damaging the pouch. Best option so far I have found are HSGI TACOs.

Edited by frogfish

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Sidearmor1.jpg

 

Sidearmor OWB holster arrived yesterday after a month delay due to them upgrading their CNC machine. I don't know if it was worth the wait, but it functions rather well. There's already some wear on the pistol itself from rubbing against the interior of the holster, but that is to be expected.

 

-Piano

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That actually looks pretty low profile, might go well on a PC. How is the draw?

 

Also what is that to the left of you PC, looks like an IFAK?

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So I'm looking to install my new Guarder slide, frame, and controls, but I have very little experience with GBB's, especially complicated ones like my 5-7. Can anyone point me to a guide of sorts for installing the kits or even just for disassembling the pistol farther than the simple stripping to clean?

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well if you can figure out how to get the hop-up unit apart for cleaning getting everything else out is just as simple. Look at what pins are faux and which are real, remove the real ones. Just look at what removing a pin may losen before you do so. You can also look at the parts/disassembly diagram that is included in the box your 5-7 came in (if you bought new)

 

 

On another note I have another report of a 5-7 breaking apart due to the pins on the hop-up sheering, this on a weapon that has never seen a cradle inner slide, but was used solely on Green gas. Was my buds pistol (D-day) I asked him to post up images but I think he's having a bad day as this was one of his favorite little toys, so he might not be prompt about writing up a report for you guys.

Edited by frogfish

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That actually looks pretty low profile, might go well on a PC. How is the draw?

 

Also what is that to the left of you PC, looks like an IFAK?

 

Sorry for taking a while to get back to you, but the draw is adjustable from stiff to next to frictionless. The pouch iss a Tyr Tactical Micro SOF IFAK.

 

-Piano

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Ok...I'm just having a really hard time "prying" the internals out of the slide and frame like you guys said. How do I know I'm doing it right?

 

 

This part is a *badgeress*. What I found to be the easiest and least destructive method for me, was to use plastic toothpicks (sorry can't find any pictures.) Basically they are thin and flat and flexible, so anything with similar properties should do. I slid down 2 of these on each side of the slide and internals, and then I was able to lift out the internals. It is kept in by tabs in the slide and BBU that interlock. Most difficult BBU I have ever had to deal with.

 

Hope this helps a little bit.

 

The way I did it at first, which worked, but was sort of destructive, was to use a small flathead screwdriver... Not recommended.

 

Oh and to answer your question, how you know you're doing it right... You don't until you either have the internals out in your hand, or a broken slide :|

Edited by NonEx

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I seem to have gotten the slide squared away. I used old credit cards wedged between the slide and BBU, if anyone's interested.

 

Now to figure out the frame without breaking anything.

 

Is it normal for the spring above the BBU to be a little mangled and bent?

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So after having nearly 25,000 rounds through it, the tabs on my Five-seveN's hopup chamber finally sheered off last week. I remember someone on here was looking into having some replacement chambers CNC'd. Did you ever make any progress with that?

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Nope.

 

But jesus, 25k rounds...0_0.

 

That's a shame. I did happen to stumble upon this though: http://http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6755 That'll be quite useful for anyone who's broken their hopup chamber.

 

And yeah, it's pretty ridiculous how long this gun lasted me. I put nearly all those rounds through it in the last 6 months of its life (new indoor field opened then), but I've had the gun since April 2010. It is without a doubt the most solid and reliable pistol I've ever owned. I'm ordering 3 of those replacement chambers, so I can keep all of my Five-seveNs running for years to come.

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Are you running it on 134a?

 

Nope. It's been running on Green Gas almost since day 1. I was originally using it with propane, but the field that opened near me doesn't allow propane in their facility, so that's when I made the switch. So pretty much those entire 20,000+ rounds were shot on Green Gas. Pretty shocking, eh?

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Shocking seeing as how some of us have had significantly more damage with about a quarter as many rounds. I've had to neuter my gun by filing down the valve knocker a bit so it doesn't recoil as hard on propane anymore.

 

edit:

I don't think I mentioned it here before, but my Guarder polycarb frame has blown too. The area where the hammer assembly screws into just split. That's when i decided to chop its balls and bring down the power a notch. And you won't be needing new chambers; the sealant fix takes care of that. Mines long been sheared off and is held pretty well by the magic gunk.

Edited by renegadecow

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The sealant fix does that? Wish I'd read this thread more thoroughly before I went and ordered 3 spare chambers. Still, I do like being able to take apart my barrel assembly to swap out or install new upgrade parts, so perhaps I'll wait to do the sealant fix until I've decided on permanent upgrades or run out of chambers.

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Originally it was only really intended to keep the nubs for the outer barrel from shearing off. But if you put some of the stuff around the inner barrel nubs, it protects those too. I'd advise you to put the sealant just the same even if you're thinking of opening it again in the future because its not all that hard to clean up and do over plus it keeps you from needless damage of parts.

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I'll see if I can get Megalomaniac to do that for me. I trust him more with that sort of thing than I trust myself. I was looking at the blowback unit just a but ago, and noticed that the spring for it was sticking out a bit. Following the Toy Gun Disassembly Guide, I got the BBU out and found that the spring was pretty mangled. Do I have any kind of options for replacing that? Or is there some way to repair the spring?

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Mweeh, I would rather have a clean hop up assembly and shell out the dollars for a new unit if it breaks than have sealant gunk inside the gun. But that's just me.

 

Regarding the spring, there is the MAG replacement kit avaliable : http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/mag-replacement-spring-set-for-marui-fn5-7-series-gbb.html

 

It looks alot like the 1911 BBU muzzle spring so maybe replacement for those would work, I think it might fit but I'd have to measure to be sure. In which case there is this : http://www.armorytechairsoft.com/airsoft-parts-gbb/338-airsoft-surgeon-as-acc-pt019.html

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I totally forgot about the MAG replacement spring set! That should be all I need to get it up and running again. It's actually still in semi-working condition, even with the spring all screwed up, but it hiccups sometimes because the loading nozzle isn't springing back into its normal position (I put the barrel assembly from my newer Five-seveN into it for testing purposes).

 

Now that I know that the spring is replaceable, I'm contemplating getting the PDI piston head for my new Five-seveN that's on the way. For those of you who have it, do you think it's a worthwhile upgrade?

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Hrmmm. Hard to say. I put in a bit too many internal upgrades at once to notice a differense between them all. But do you really want more powerfull blowback and pressure in the muzzle, considering how the gun performs in stock form? My upgraded one is insane, more so than the stock one, a friend who shot real steel Glock 17 9mm said it wasn't far off recoil wise... I guess it depends on what you want out of it. The Marui stock piston head is by no means bad so.

 

Allow me to quote myself (does this make me a total douche-bag ? :o ) from my Glock 17 parts "review" regarding the piston heads;

 

 

 

Piston Head

 

Here I have three models to choose from, the included Marui stock piston head, the Airsoft Surgeon piston head (included with the loading muzzle) and finally the PDI piston head.

 

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Left to right: Tokyo Marui stock piston head, Airsoft Surgeon piston head and PDI piston head.

 

Tokyo Marui stock piston head

Again, not much to say, it's a stock Marui part and it works well. As you can see it's design differens a bit from the other two, being thinner and having the slighly tapered O-ring.

 

Airsoft Surgeon piston head

Included with the loading muzzle, that was, if you remember, slightly larger in its inner diameter than the stock muzzle. This means the piston head matches the muzzle size, and this also means it is too tight of a fit for the Marui stock loading muzzle. Other than that it's the beefiest piston head of the three, both width and depth wise. You would think adding depth would decrease the muzzle blowback volume capacity, meanig... actually my brain can't figure out what that would mean but it's an interesting thing to note. Actually, my brain just came back online, it means that the same amount of expelled gas from the magazine is trying to fill a smaller space in the muzzle, meaning heavier and more kick in the blowback (can I have a lollipop now?). This has the three-ridge design, where it has the plastic molding two sides around a central o-ring.

 

PDI piston head

Similar, actually very similar, to the AS piston head, this is slightly smaller in both directions meaning it fits in the stock muzzle just fine! Thank G*d for that!

 

Conslusion: I went with the PDI piston head simply because I feel/think I need an upgraded piston head in my pistol. It's suposed to created a better seal and be a bit more durable, but nothing that I have, or probably will notice. It just feels good to have.

 

 

Edited by NonEx

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