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TM FN Five-seveN GBB


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Wow, I need that kit too - damaged my loading spring, so I just replaced it with a KSC Glock nozzle spring XD.

 

renegade, do you have a link to what your silicone sealant looked like (or maybe a pic)? This is what I found on HD's website:

 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xnu/R-202084498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

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Eh, I just can't see myself owning a pistol whose real caliber is smaller than the airsoft caliber.... :{

Credit... card... trick. I'm gonna cry myself to sleep tonight.

Of course I won't use an M4! What an abomination of a rifle!   If it's anything less than .30 caliber, I don't care about it!

The one I use specifically is locally manufactured and doesn't seem to be available online. Here's something similar though:

http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/loctite-598-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-80ml-tube-p-8056.html?utm_source=googprod&utm_term=LOC-37467

You might find the same stuff cheaper in actual stores (mine costs $1.50 per tube). Look for "gasket maker" or "liquid gasket" as they're stronger than typical silicone sealants.

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No home depot doesnt have the sealant, they dont carry it anymore. Autozone has it. Both the clear and black.

 

As for loading nozzle return springs, any TM loading nozzle spring will work, I used a 1911 one. To keep it in place when installing apply a little bit of grease and it wont fallout freely.

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Hey guys.

 

Alright, so Ive almost pretty much decided to get a TM 5-7, I just want to know a few details before I take the plunge. Keep in mind this is my very first GBB or Gas pistol I have ever owned.

 

1: Ive heard that the 5-7 is a decently built gun, but after a while has had problems with green gas. Is this true, and is there a way to remedy it?

 

2: This sort of goes along with the previous point. Ive heard a lot about the guarder upgrade kit, what exactly does it do? Does it help reinforce the structure of the pistol so it can take green gas (or take it better)? Does it improve the look, feel or functionality? Is it really worth it in the long run.

 

3: I see there are newer models on Red Wolf that include a small LAM unit of sorts and a different tone. Is it worth it to get that version over the standard black variant? Are there any differences besides tone and LAM unit? I would normally go with the FDE variant but the color doesnt quite look right, so I would prefer the standard black look.

 

If I could get this questions answered, it would be much appreciated. Thanks!!!

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1. Read through the thread - fixes are shown/presented. Otherwise a gun that runs fine/strongly on GG.

2. Mainly more color options and RS trades. Supposedly it's made of polycarb, but it's shown some wear issues as the stock TM frame has (I think renegadecow had slide splitting issues).

3. From what I've heard, the TM light is wimpy as hell. You're better off getting a RS M3 or TLR-1.

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All the parts arrived today for my 5-7 and its amazing. This is what a 5-7 should feel like

 

Picture021.jpg

Picture020.jpg

 

Here's my parts list:

 

Tokyo Marui 5-7

Guarder Polycarbonate Slide and Frame

Creation Metal Inner slide

PDI Piston Head

PDI Palsonite 6.01 Tightbore

Prometheus Bucking

Prometheus Smooth POM Recoil Ring

RCC Steel barrel

RCC 130% Spring (Had to cut down 1 coil in order for lock back to work, Beefy steel spring.)

Firefly Floating valve

 

Dont ask me how it shoots just yet, I'm waiting for the sealant to set.

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Supposedly it's made of polycarb, but it's shown some wear issues as the stock TM frame has (I think renegadecow had slide splitting issues).

Not anymore. The staple fixed it. :P

I'd still say the Guarder kit is plenty worth it though. Despite the cracked frame screw holes and split slide, it's made my 5-7 a lot more realistic in looks and feel, which is to say "plasticky" and "toy-like" as far as the real thing is concerned.

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^ I do. Actually like most people, your information is wrong on this application. When you install enhanced springs it lessens recoil. If you want heavier recoil, you go with a weaker spring. The RCC (Only springs available) comes with both fortunately. I installed the 130% (Beefy steel spring btw) and while the kick is less, it has a much snappier action.

 

Hope that clarifies something for you.

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@Vainguard

 

Glad to see the parts arrived and are working out for you. Do you think the stronger/stiffer recoil spring will affect the long term reliability of the Five-seveN's hop up unit (positively or negatively)?

 

-Piano

 

Yep! Big thanks to PB for the Guarder Slide and Frame and replacement grey parts.

 

I'm not sure. I'm not certain if the shearing is due to the kick and the amount of force coming back or the amount of force coming forward. If it's forward, it will probably affect durability.. I have done the sealant fix, but when I stop by the CNC shop to get my G&P WA Barrel lathed down, I will ask how much for a batch of 5-7 Hopup units. If the price is ok I will go ahead and have them make some and sell them to you guys if you wish.

 

Who would be interested in some Steel 5-7 Hopup units, and what would you be willing to pay? Keep in mind, CNC work is NOT cheap and for a small production run makes it even more expensive. Working with steel is tougher than Aluminum and it costs more than aluminum. I would expect them to run about $40 - $50 each at least.

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Judging by the wear patterns, it's hard to tell. If the wear on the lugs is occurring from when the slide is retuning to it's starting position, it could explain the wear on the outer barrel as the slide is forcing the barrel forward while the hopup stays stationary, resulting on the wear occurring on the rear portion of the holes. However, that doesn't explain very well why the inner barrel's lugs are worn away. Perhaps the recoil spring is bottoming out at when the slide reaches its rearmost position, causing a hammering effect on the hop up unit, while the barrels are staying relatively fixed due to inertial? I can't really accept that hypothesis either as the mass of the barrels might not by high enough to have any meaningful inertial effect, but I did notice that my PDI POM recoil ring was pressed tightly into my Creation aluminum inner slide frame. For all I know, the wear on the outer barrel and its lugs and the wear on the inner barrel lugs are due to two different events in the firing cycle.

 

Just my thoughts,

-PIano

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I've already put my own analysis down some few pages back on the matter. It's definitely to do with the rearward motion of the slide when the slide itself slams into the hop chamber as otherwise the same damage should be seen regardless of gas used or at whatever temperature. The orientation of wear may seem contradictory and confusing, but it's the inertia of the two components (outer barrel and hop chamber) being separate that causes the damage. The sealant helps in trying to unify the inertia of the two components as one.

 

While a stiffer recoil spring may dampen the rearward force, the only reason why I haven't bought one yet is that no enhanced nozzles are out and the nozzle is all that's stopping the slide going back into battery. Dunno if it can take the stiffer spring in the long run.

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Just as an update on the spring replacement, after much experimentation whilst waiting on my set of MAG replacements to ship. It appears that you cant get a standard TM spring to fit, the spring has a sort of weird taper at the end towards the front, if that isn't there you get rubbing against the slide and the nozzle will not return properly. Installed the new spring and replacement mag catch (mine had chipped, a quick fix is to reverse it, a better fix is to replace it) and now all is well with the world again.

Definitely still interested in upgrading to a steel chamber, also any advice on hop rubbers? , as I plan to run .25s exclusively, and wondered if the stock one will be ok or not.

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