Voodoo1 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 nah - guarder... we don't go anywhere near madbull... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 must have been blimmin' cold, I'd expect about 260 on .25s in those conditions! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GnGArmament Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Did some cold weather shooting yesterday (supposedly 8 degrees) No problems with cool down and was still shooting quite straight with little noticeable drop in accuracy. Got full 3 reloads, from one fill of gas (green). And shot Bibby at least 3 times with it... Chronoed at 230 with .25g. Would you recommend this as a winter GBB in it's stock form? I have no GBB for the winter and have been wanting one for a while. Also, a very nice review Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Would you recommend this as a winter GBB in it's stock form? I have no GBB for the winter and have been wanting one for a while. Also, a very nice review It depends how cold your winters are. Recently it has been around 8 degrees C here & mine is shooting fine on green & guarder .28 hpms. Can't tell you how it is any less than that until the temp drops. Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galactica Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 I think we've pretty much established this as THE winter GBB pistol. It's awesome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 must have been blimmin' cold, I'd expect about 260 on .25s in those conditions! Ah, but you've got those funny .25's that chrono higher than my .2's. Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voodoo1 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 possibly colder than the news said it was... i put a mag in my pocket at lunch time to warm it up and it was so cold it hurt... think the important think is though that it was still shooting fine all day... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Csn't see much point in the stainless over the stock barrel myself... hey... Add extra Clank & Clink during each cycling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) hey... Can any one confirm if this is actually true. I am skeptical as it is surrounded by mainly plastic parts & has nothing to 'clank' against. I bet it adds a bit of weight. Swapping my 101mm brass barrel out for a 111mm stainless has made a noticeable difference. Doubling the weight of the outer must really change the balance of this gun. Personally I like to skirmish 'light' & hope that Madbull bring out more ally pistol barrels. If you do like 'heavy', then a combination of stainless outer &, extended stainless inner will be right up your street. So, is it just aural aesthetics & obesity or is there any other point to a 'stainless' outer? I like the look of the Lalax black outer, I intend using mine as sniper back up, so don't want 'shiny'. It's described as 'metal'. Anyone know what 'metal' it is? Greg. Edited December 7, 2009 by greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 These things are addressed to the "that's aftermarket, I need to buy it!" minded people. Of course it doesn't any "clink". That's just the standard phrase ehobbyasia puts into any metalpart describtion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) These things are addressed to the "that's aftermarket, I need to buy it!" minded people. Of course it doesn't any "clink". That's just the standard phrase ehobbyasia puts into any metalpart describtion. Thank you for clearing that one up, for a second I thought I might have been going mad. Er, madder. Greg. Edited December 7, 2009 by greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingman Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Just out of interest, why the stainless outers? Are they any better than the stock ally one? Greg. There has been some reports of the standard outer barrel having problems with stability holes that match up to the pins that hold it in the firing chamber which is steel/pot metal. In a few cases, the holes in softer aluminium that surrounds the pins gets banged out of shape by the force of the slide slaming back against the firing chamber and if it gets too pronounced, they crack and the outter barrel can just slide out of the pistol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 There has been some reports of the standard outer barrel having problems with stability holes that match up to the pins that hold it in the firing chamber which is steel/pot metal. In a few cases, the holes in softer aluminium that surrounds the pins gets banged out of shape by the force of the slide slaming back against the firing chamber and if it gets too pronounced, they crack and the outter barrel can just slide out of the pistol. I've seen the photo of what you describe in this thread. What I cant work out, is how this happens, while fining the gun. If you look at the mech, it makes little sense, as there is practically no stress on this area. There is even a clever little spring, to relieve what little there is, adding suspension to the blow back. When I first saw that photo, I speculated that the barrel must have been 'pulled' out or something, a I really can't get my head round any stress caused to that area during the firing of the gun. Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingman Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 Just got my barrels today and just finished installing the new outer barrel onto one of my Five Sevens. Looks nice (the same) and maybe it added a ounce (who cares). Anyway, I think the reason for the deforming of the mounting holes in the outer barrel is that there is just the slightest space between the end of the barrel and where it mounts into the firing chamber. When the slide slams back, the lack of support at the end of the outer barrel can cause it move, ever slightly, back (remember this is just soft aluminium) and after repeated slamming, the hole starts to elongate til it snaps. Now I use 134a and Duster most of the time, so the bashing isnt that hard. However, if I used Green Gas more often, it might be what makes the difference and speed up the process. They were very cleaver in how they resolved this with the stainless barrel. The new barrel comes with the O ring already attached as it is on the front of the original barrel. However, you take the O ring from the original barrel and put it on the inner brass barrel and slide it back towards the back end of the barrel (towards the hop-up). You then slide the new barrel onto the inner barrel and the old O ring now becomes a buffer that takes up that tiny bit of space between the barrel and firing chamber and holds the two pieces solid. Zero chance of movement and with the stainless steel being harder, your less likely to get the problem of the holes deforming. Seems pretty logical. When I was checking the E hobby site, I saw that they apparently have the barrels in black steel as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 Just got my barrels today and just finished installing the new outer barrel onto one of my Five Sevens. Looks nice (the same) and maybe it added a ounce (who cares). Anyway, I think the reason for the deforming of the mounting holes in the outer barrel is that there is just the slightest space between the end of the barrel and where it mounts into the firing chamber. When the slide slams back, the lack of support at the end of the outer barrel can cause it move, ever slightly, back (remember this is just soft aluminium) and after repeated slamming, the hole starts to elongate til it snaps. Now I use 134a and Duster most of the time, so the bashing isnt that hard. However, if I used Green Gas more often, it might be what makes the difference and speed up the process. They were very cleaver in how they resolved this with the stainless barrel. The new barrel comes with the O ring already attached as it is on the front of the original barrel. However, you take the O ring from the original barrel and put it on the inner brass barrel and slide it back towards the back end of the barrel (towards the hop-up). You then slide the new barrel onto the inner barrel and the old O ring now becomes a buffer that takes up that tiny bit of space between the barrel and firing chamber and holds the two pieces solid. Zero chance of movement and with the stainless steel being harder, your less likely to get the problem of the holes deforming. Seems pretty logical. When I was checking the E hobby site, I saw that they apparently have the barrels in black steel as well. Was yours the lalax one? Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingman Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 No, MAG Stainless Steel Outer Barrel part# ART-OB-FN57 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 No, MAG Stainless Steel Outer Barrel part# ART-OB-FN57 Thank you. Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voodoo1 Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Bit more cold weather info. Didn't get time to chrono this time round, but a performance assesment. In temperatures of approx. 2 degress C, got around one load of BBs to one load of gas. Was suffering cool down but not anything like the significant levels I've seen in other GBBs. Cycling got persistantly slower and weaker the more I rapid fired. Couple of times the slide didn't lock back - although I've found the mag spring to be occasionally sticky anyway, something I put down to newness. Accuracy wise, it kept on shooting straight and true - very little difference in drop as it cooled and the power dropped off. I did switch to my NBB P99 for better reliabiltiy and performance in the end, but was very impressed by the 5-7s ability to keep going. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 As did I, also without crono. All you say is true, except I couldn't fire a full mag. only 12 or so BBs. Perhaps I fired to fast? I used greengas. I'm desperatly on a quest to get Cybergun APS3 Wintergas ( it rocks, IMHO ) better than Green, especially in low temps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GnGArmament Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) It depends how cold your winters are. Recently it has been around 8 degrees C here & mine is shooting fine on green & guarder .28 hpms. Can't tell you how it is any less than that until the temp drops. Greg. Sorry for the late response, winters in upstate NY can easily go below -20 degrees Celcius at night But for the most part, winter tempatures during the day time can range from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius. Edited December 16, 2009 by GnGArmament Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 (edited) Finished mine. Wish I could show y'all pics. Cosmetically, I got the top slide hydrographically dipped in Realtree Hardwoods green. The grip has been 'wrapped' with an olive, Hogue, rubber glock wrap-round. & the silver outer barrel has been replaced with a Black, Lalax one. The sight dots have been given a cote of glow in the dark, green paint. I think she's real purdy now. The aluminum muzzle end recoil ring has been replaced with the Lalax, delrin (pom) one, giving a smother cocking action & faster blow back. The mag valves have been ported. As reported earlier, the stock barrel has been replaced by a 111x6.03mm lalax, which runs the full length of the outer. The stock hop rubber has been replaced by a Lalax purple, but this has made very little difference, & as per these rubbers, 'over-hopping' with guarder hpm .28's is now a thing of the past. It was worth a try, but I think I'll go back to the stock marrui one. Performance is similar to stock, about 20 more fps (320-330 with a .2 @ 19C). Hard to tell if accuracy has improved, as it was bloody great out of the box. It is still excellent. The blow back speed & noise have noticeably increased. You actually have to hang on to it, while firing, or risk losing accuracy. Fun but not very practical. Recoilless am bestest, for accuracy. So, that's that & onto the next thing........................... Greg. Edited December 23, 2009 by greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted December 27, 2009 Report Share Posted December 27, 2009 I'm thinking of sticking a firefly cylinder valve in this. Has any one tried? If so, what was the result? Greg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jotohomomoto Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I just ordered my TM FiveseveN because this thread just had me a jones'n!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I just ordered a 70% and 130% spring, a black threaded outerbarrel and a PDI Pistonhead for my FN57 My goal is to make it even more cold resistant with a 70% spring and a PDI 6.01 6" innerbarrel trough silencer and the better seal of a PDI pistonhead ( I hope... ) In summertime I'll use the 130% spring with a normal length PDI 6.01 innerbarrel for some more boom. A Creative alu inner slide is on it's way too. Now I'm just waiting for a Guarder FDE slide to be available. A crono is in the order too so I'll update this and the winter GBB thread if anyone is interested. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) I emailed just about everywhere to see if they were going to ge the slides and frames in and only UNCO responded positively, they said they would get them when they came out, but they have no clue of when that will be. let me know about that setup I've been interested in the inner slide and some different recoil springs combined with the firefly valves and the PDI piston... Just don't want to exceed 300 FPS with it on propane..... Edited February 3, 2010 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.