Stealthbomber Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 This isn't really a dumb question... but, How many versions of the KSC Mk23 are there? And more importantly how do you tell them apart? You're damned right it isn't a dumb question. There have been squillions of different versions of the KSC Mk23. AFAIK, most of the ones around at the moment are based on the 2005 upgraded design. Hate to say it but I doubt anybody could tell you the difference between them all unless they're a rabid Mk23 fanatic and they've bought one of each. If you're buying a used one then, basically, as long as it's a 2005 or newer model then you've got the best of the pack. Beyond that, it's just a question of what style slide it has really. All you really need to find out is how to tell the difference between a 2005 model and anything previous to that. ...which, ummm, I can't actually help you with. Sorry. Link to post Share on other sites
The lolinator Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 erm, anyone know what power spring a cyma m14 will take with stock internals?? cheers Link to post Share on other sites
RC-1138 Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 I wouldn't go over an SP110. I've heard of both total gear tearing and some shell issues with higher. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Whats the difference between an LRB or a standard hop up unit? Hops usually fit to electric or internally powered GBBs. It is a rubber nub that slows down the top of the bb so the bottom goes faster. The backspin helps to counteract the drop over the range of the shot. An LRB is usually fitted to classic guns, specifically BV or bullet valve powered guns. The bb is shot up a slight ramp before it enters the barrel and rolls all the way along the top of the barrel, this imparts the back spin (a lot of backspin) They can produce an amazingly powerful hop effect that is consistent too. They also tend to work better with heavier bbs and more powerful rifles, one member on here (thrasher) has an M60 with a 100m range that is an LRBed BV gun. There were some LRBs for early WA pistols and some classics had something called an SCS (spin control system) which is an early hop but that is a general answer for you. Link to post Share on other sites
RC-1138 Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 I've never used Magpuls before (I always just rigged up my own from 550 cord and 100mh tape) but I'm thinking of buying the basic magpul originals but how exactly do they stay attached to the mag's bottom without just flying off when you yank it out of a full magazine pouch? Link to post Share on other sites
wolfspider Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Anyone got a picture of what the Tokyo Marui Desert Warrior looks like with the rail removed? First page of the review thread here Link to post Share on other sites
RC-1138 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 First page of the review thread here *Grumble* thanks. Now I'm wishing I got that instead of my MP7... well maybe not wishing instead of Link to post Share on other sites
The lolinator Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 any suggestions of a good clone serpa holster/platform?? Link to post Share on other sites
Turvs Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I will soon be starting airsoft but i am 18 in April so cannot buy my own RIF for a while but could i use one of my brothers only at an airsoft site, who is UKARA registered? Link to post Share on other sites
Treadhead Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Yup. The VCRA has no bearing on the use of RIFs. Link to post Share on other sites
dark2023 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I'm trying to decide between the TM 5-7 and the WE Luger, which is better. Link to post Share on other sites
Jord-22 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Hey Everybody OK, what i want to know is, for my Tokyo Marui Desert Eagle Hard Kick Chrome, can it take Kickass Gas without becoming damaged? If not, what is the optimum gas/bb weight for this pistol? thanks - Jord Link to post Share on other sites
The lolinator Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 I would stick to .2g BBs with green gas with any GBB as the accuracy isn't AS important as you will probably be using it at very close ranges Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 Use the heaviest you can. I'm using .28g in all my GBBs, in fact the only use I have for .2g is very short range plinking. Sure, they cost a bit more, but you fire far fewer rounds with a GBB anyway so it's kinda a moot point. Link to post Share on other sites
chowiez Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 What can i do to stiffen up my DBOYS AK selector switch? it keeps slipping to semi when im going auto!!! Really frustrating! Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 I will soon be starting airsoft but i am 18 in April so cannot buy my own RIF for a while but could i use one of my brothers only at an airsoft site, who is UKARA registered? So long as ownership of the RIF does not pass from him to you then this is totally fine. Hey Everybody OK, what i want to know is, for my Tokyo Marui Desert Eagle Hard Kick Chrome, can it take Kickass Gas without becoming damaged? If not, what is the optimum gas/bb weight for this pistol? thanks - Jord The TM Desert Eagle is well known for its ability to take green gas without modification. IIRC "Kickass" gas is a form of green gas, certainly in the same preassure range so it would be just fine. But bear in mind that any gun will last longer if you use lower powered gas. As for what balls to use, start with .2g as they are very common then test .25g. You might be able to get a mag or two worth of .25 from a friend or a nice airsofter who dosent mind you taking 50 or so. .25 is fairly common. You will find that you get better range and accuracy as you increase weight up to the point where the bbs are too heavy and fall short- losing range. It is up to you what ammunition you want to use based on range and cost. Link to post Share on other sites
Jord-22 Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 The TM Desert Eagle is well known for its ability to take green gas without modification. IIRC "Kickass" gas is a form of green gas, certainly in the same preassure range so it would be just fine. But bear in mind that any gun will last longer if you use lower powered gas. As for what balls to use, start with .2g as they are very common then test .25g. You might be able to get a mag or two worth of .25 from a friend or a nice airsofter who dosent mind you taking 50 or so. .25 is fairly common. You will find that you get better range and accuracy as you increase weight up to the point where the bbs are too heavy and fall short- losing range. It is up to you what ammunition you want to use based on range and cost. Thanks that's very helpful and descriptive. so, say i do maintenance every month ( Re-Grease, And Reapply Silicone where needed), and use Kickass gas, how long do you reckon it will last me? also! I forgot to ask what gasses are what. So, i got some HFC134a Gas when i got the pistol, i now have a large can of Kickass Gas, and a medium can of abbey predator ultra gas. what one would be the most powerful, what one would be a good combination of power, and gun wear, what one is the worst, is there any better gas etc. thats all Note, My pistol has only fired about 6 mags worth of BB's, so its pretty new. Link to post Share on other sites
The General Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 134a is the least powerful. Ultra is the middle ground. Green is the most powerful listed (kickass gas is green gas). You can get red gas etc but don't go there! In the UK, most metal slide guns are fine on green gas. We really don't get silly hot weather and if its really hot, I don't airsoft anyway. Green gas causes more wear than ultra or 134a. Simple to work out really the more ommph in the gas, the quicker it will wear out and damage any gun. Meh, I have switched to propane anyway. Which is green gas without the added lube. MUCH cheaper. Link to post Share on other sites
SuperJesus37 Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 Anyone got a release date for the Dboys SCAR-H? Link to post Share on other sites
Jord-22 Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 134a is the least powerful. Ultra is the middle ground. Green is the most powerful listed (kickass gas is green gas). You can get red gas etc but don't go there! In the UK, most metal slide guns are fine on green gas. We really don't get silly hot weather and if its really hot, I don't airsoft anyway. Green gas causes more wear than ultra or 134a. Simple to work out really the more ommph in the gas, the quicker it will wear out and damage any gun. Meh, I have switched to propane anyway. Which is green gas without the added lube. MUCH cheaper. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 breif maintanance description. The main idea of maintaining a GBB for airsoft use is to make sure that when you go to a game the gun is clear of dirt and has enough lube to ensure that the many rounds you will fire wont overly wear the gun. To this end it is more important to maintain a gun BEFORE a game, rather than AFTER. Generally i do both, but i love my pistols . Quick maintanance procedure: Take down the gun, this will be listed in your instruction manual. With any TM gun you will not need tools to do this, for a quick takedown you should end up with; Frame, Slide, barrel set, recoil springs. Take a kitchen towel or dry cloth and wipe over everything you can get to, paying piticular attention to the slide and frame rails as they take a lot of abuse. Apply silicone oil to everything you have just wiped. In addition spray oil into the BBU, again this can wear quickly but its not so easy to get to. You should only apply a thin coating of oil as too much oil can gum up the mechanism. If you want to take it a little further, use grease rather than oil on the slide and frame rails. It is also a good idea to clean the barrel, but this is not needed for every game. for casual pistolers once every 6-12 months is plenty. Remove the barrel set, you dont need to remove the inner barrel totally. Turn the hop unit off to protect it. Spray oil into the barrel Use the supplied cleaning rod with kitchen towel or a clean cloth to remove the oil. Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites
Bando Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 i have an ICS mp5 and there are two rectangular parts along the top just infront of the rear sight and they keep rattling is there anything i can do to stop this? Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 i have an ICS mp5 and there are two rectangular parts along the top just infront of the rear sight and they keep rattling is there anything i can do to stop this? Think of global warming or the destruction of the rain-forests and then stop worrying about trivial stuff. Stick a bit of tape over the loose part. I assume you're talking about the two plates that're supposed to have the H&K proof marks stamped on them? If you're really desperate to stop this you could pull the gun to bits and then, once you've got the receiver in two halves, you could glue the plates into one half of the receiver or use something like a short length of thread to pack the slot they fit into so they can't move around. If you fit a scope to the gun it'll also stop the rattling cos the mount-base tightens onto those plates. Link to post Share on other sites
Jord-22 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 breif maintanance description. The main idea of maintaining a GBB for airsoft use is to make sure that when you go to a game the gun is clear of dirt and has enough lube to ensure that the many rounds you will fire wont overly wear the gun. To this end it is more important to maintain a gun BEFORE a game, rather than AFTER. Generally i do both, but i love my pistols . Quick maintanance procedure: Take down the gun, this will be listed in your instruction manual. With any TM gun you will not need tools to do this, for a quick takedown you should end up with; Frame, Slide, barrel set, recoil springs. Take a kitchen towel or dry cloth and wipe over everything you can get to, paying piticular attention to the slide and frame rails as they take a lot of abuse. Apply silicone oil to everything you have just wiped. In addition spray oil into the BBU, again this can wear quickly but its not so easy to get to. You should only apply a thin coating of oil as too much oil can gum up the mechanism. If you want to take it a little further, use grease rather than oil on the slide and frame rails. It is also a good idea to clean the barrel, but this is not needed for every game. for casual pistolers once every 6-12 months is plenty. Remove the barrel set, you dont need to remove the inner barrel totally. Turn the hop unit off to protect it. Spray oil into the barrel Use the supplied cleaning rod with kitchen towel or a clean cloth to remove the oil. Hope this helps Plenty thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Toxsin Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I have a couple of TM spring pistols and I was wondering how often would I need to maintain them. They've been kept away for a couple of years now and I've probably shot less than 200 times with either one. Unfortunately, I am unable to play airsoft where I am, therefore these are more like a collection for me and I'm hoping to keep them in good condition. Appreciate any advice you folks can provide. Link to post Share on other sites
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