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Gorf

The "dumb question" thread

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More or less but some people prefer using softer hops in snipers due to the faster break in time (they also wear out faster though...not a problem if you are a sniper).

 

If I recall some an AW-338 user put a Prommy soft into his gun, I don't think the purple 9ball hop rubber for VSR is all that hard either. My dads PSG-1 runs around 450fps with .2s but he uses the stock TM rubber and has no problems engaging targets at 60m with .3s

 

Thing is, if you are getting into electrosnipers as another user would call them, it starts getting to be a bit of a dark art and less technically precise.

 

 

But basically, yes, you've got the idea:)

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Ok heres one,, What do people meen when they say "I re shimmed the gearbox"??

 

 

Shimming, and re-shimming, is the process of putting small metal disks, called shims, into place on the axels of all the gears.

The purpous of shimming is to suspend the gears in the correct position so that they mesh correctly with the other gears, the motor and the piston.

Signs of good shimming are: Smooth gearbox sound(not including motor noize) consistant ROF and a long life of the gearbox.

Signs of bad shimming are: Grinding or metal screaching from the gearbox when fired, short battery life, inconsistant ROF and in the worst cases very short gearbox life. The gears can grind together and damage themselves, or against the piston and motor and damage them. It is also possible for bad shimming to cause the gearbox shell itself to crack around the gear axels, but this is rare.

Shims look very much like washers they are flat disks of metal with a hole in the middle. You can get shims in a number of places, including airsoft shops. Buying from an airsoft shop will mean you are paying for overcharged shims, but they will be correct. Buying from a DIY shop (thats "harware store" to the yanks) will be a whole lot cheaper. you need to make sure you get the corect size(OD and ID, the size of the outside and inside of the disk)

Shims will come in different thicknesses, ranging in the mm and tenths of mm range. you can use different thinkness of shims so long as the total is correct. Two shims half the thickness of one thicker shim will do the same job with no trouble.

Re-shimming is just doing it again. All AEGs (even the bad china ones) will be shimmed, just not very well.

 

 

 

 

 

The process of shimming is as follows.

 

Open and empty the gearbox(keep all the parts safe and so on:P)

place the piston and cylander in the gearbox

place the selector (top) gear in

Put in and remove shims of different size and number underneath the selector gear until the teath on the gear line up with the teath on the piston

Remove the piston and cylander

Adjust the number and size of shims on the top of the selector gear then screw the gearbox Together (with just that one gear in it) and check it. The gear should have a little play but not to much.

Repeat this step until the gear turns smothley but does not move up and down.

Put the middle gear (spur gear) in place. put/remove shims underneath it to level it with the selector gear.

Remove the selector gear.

Adjust the number and size of shims on the top of the spur gear then screw the gearbox together (with just that one gear in it) and check it.

Repeat this step until the gear turns smothley but does not move up and down.

Place the lowest gear(bevel gear) in, add/remove shims under it to match it with the spur gear.

remove the spur gear.

Adjust the number and size of shims on the top of the bevel gear then screw the gearbox together (with just that one gear in it) and check it.

Repeat this step until the gear turns smothley but does not move up and down.

At this point the gears should be correctly shimmed but to check put only the three gears in the gearbox and screw it closed. you should be able to easly move the gears, but it should not rattle if you shake it.

Reassemble everything in the gearbox.

**V1 V2 V4 gearboxes and any other gearbox that the motor is seperate from the gearbox will assemble the entire gun here. V3 V6 and other gearboxes with motor cages on the gearbox, only assemble the gearbox here**

Re-adjust the motor. This is very important. As you have altered the height of each of the gears, especially the bevel gear, the motor hight must also be adjusted to match the new heights.

To adjust the motor, first fit it. There will be a grub screw normally with a hex head in the motor plate or motor cage. Screw this in fairly tight and then loosen it by one entire turn. Connect a battery and disable the saftey however is nessesery. Tap the trigger. The gun should make a noize, turn the screw back and forth in small increments, tapping the trigger each position. You should quickly get to the correct point. To get the right point listen to the sound the gun makes as you tap the trigger, it may make no noise, meaning the motor is jammed in to tight, it may make grinding noises meaning the motor is allmost the right height, then it will make a much smoother sound when it is correct. Play it around a little back and forth to get the perfect position.

**Guns with motor cages reassemble the entire gun here**

Now do a firing test. It should sound fairly smooth(with whiney motor and piston popping)

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Everyone must have questions they are too scared to ask when they are starting out, for fear of ridicule. I'll get the ball rolling...

 

OK here's another one - with a wind-up hi cap mag, are you supposed to wind it until the BBs have no room to rattle? Seems like common-sense, but I thought I'd better check...

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You're supposed to wind it until it's fully wound! ;)

 

Stopping winding when the BB's are at the top of the feed (I assume this is what you're talking about) will mean you get a handful of shots off before the mag will no longer feed. You need to wind it a LOT more.

 

Keep winding until the sound of the clicking noise changes.... The regular "click click click click click click" will become a "click click click clunk click click click clunk" - that means that it's fully wound. Don't worry about overwinding it, the "clunk" noise is the mechanism which prevents overwinding by releasing the excess tension on the spring.

 

Most highcaps won't fire their full load from one winding, so make sure an wind it back to full every chance you get.

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A highcap mech works as follows:

 

In the top there is a large hopper. A hopper is simply a large open space that stuff is put into, in this case BBs. At the bottom of the hopper is an opening to a clockwork mechanism. The clockwork mechanism has a large wheel with teath on the outside, the teeth are shaped to drag the BBs from the hopper and push them up into the feed tube. The feed tube is a 6mm tube that runs up the front of the magazine and leads to the port at the top that you can see from the outside.

 

 

Important process of loading.

 

Fill the hopper with BBs, depending on the magazine you will need a minimum of 20-50 BBs for the mechanism to hold. I would allways recomend completley filling the hopper at this stage.

Hold the magazine so that gravity pulls the BBs from the hopper towards the highcap mech at the bottom (generally downwards, but in p90 and bizon it will be sideways)

wind it a few times and you will see a BB in the port at the top. If you have done this correctly there wont be any gaps in the teeth that push the BBs, you must make sure that BBs fill the teeth when you first flood the mech with BBs otherwise you will encounter problems.

Continue to wind the mechanism, at this point the BBs are not moving at all, what is happening is the main spring is becoming taught, meaning you are giving it energy. you will hear the sound of the anti reversal latch clicking, it will click once for every 5-10mm you turn the wheel.

When the spring is at maximum tention it will slip from its position, dont worry this is a good thing. The slip positions are designed so the spring canot be overwound. this will make a different clicking than the ARL clicking, it is normally louder and will be less well timed than the ARL, it might click for every 15-20mm of movement or for 50-70mm of movement. when you hear this sound the spring is under full tention and should not be wound further.

 

As you put the magazine in the gun, it will jump by 3-5 BBs as they load into the feed tube of your AEG, If there are any gaps in the BBs on the teeth it will most likley spin out(here's looking at you p90 users :P)

 

As you fire your weapon and the BBs are used up, the spring will let out its energy to move the BBs in the teath up to the feed tube and push them into the gun, as it does this it will pick up more BBs from the hopper to keep the teeth full.

Depending on make and model the spring might last from 50 to 300 rounds before it becomes slack and no longer feeds. If you are new to your highcap it is allways recomended to constantly wind the magazine to make sure that it is at full or near full tention. After some time with it you should learn how many rounds it will fire before requiring rewinding and you can wind as you see fit, some mags will empty the hopper before the spring looses its tention.

 

When the hopper is empty the spring will empty the teeth of BBs and once that happens the remaining spring tention will "spin out". This causes a noticable noise from the magazine. this is not a problem, there is a weighted cog designed to make sure it dosent overspin and so it wont get damaged.

 

 

Common problems

Spinning out on loading:

When putting the magazine into the gun, the magazine automatically spins out and must be rewound.

What has gone wrong is that when you first put the BBs into the mech, and forced the teeth closed against the BBs in the feed tube, is that you did not do it in such a way that the teeth are not filled with BBs. There was a gap, and when the 3-5BBs loaded into the gun the teeth where free to move without the BBs stopping them. At this speed the teeth wont pick up BBs from the hopper and so it will spin out completley.

 

spinning out whyle firing:

This problem happens when the BBs arent beeing pulled into the teeth of the clockwork mechanism properly, this can be due to many problems:

Holding the magazine sideways when shooting(african infantryman style)

a jam or breakage of the magazine itself. I have seen the teeth break off in some rare cases. There is a "BB agitator" that should help the BBs into the teeth, this occasionaly does not function

 

Total jam with no feeding

Do not load a highcap with a speedloader into the port the BBs go into the gun, put the BBs ONLY into the door provided. The ARL will prevent the mech from moving and something will break.

Again there could be other breakages causing the problem.

 

 

 

 

 

Maintanence and care

Generally highcaps need no maintanace however they should be stored properly.

If the spring is stored fully wound then over time it will weaken, meaning you must wind more often and at worst meaning it wont feed at all.

The simpelest way to store it is to invert the magazine (with gravity pulling BBs AWAY from the teeth of the highcap) and pull the button on the top of the mag. BBs will poor out and the clockwork mech will spin out.

Leaving BBs in the hopper is not a problem, they have no effect on the mechanism there. You just need to make sure the spring is loose

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Why do CA guns suck?

 

No just kidding, here goes:

 

I have just received a CA metal receiver for my M16 and I was wondering how do you attach the CA mag catch? In the past all of my ARs have used the TM style mag catches with screws to hold it together but this one is a 'real type' with left side (the catch) of the selector acting as the bolt with a threaded shaft and the right side of the selector (push button) acting as the nut. I can't for the life of me figure out how to attach it even though it seems as though it should be quite simple.

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Hello ladies, gentlemen and the rest;

 

Thanks for setting up this thread so I can ask my noob question here on WA type M4 mags:

 

If you want to upgrade the o-rings in your mag to ensure they can withstand GG/propane/whatever you call it would a single valve key be enough to remove all valves in the mag ?

 

also, is there any step-by-step guide how to re-assemble your mag ? It is always easy to get something into pieces (with the help of a large hammer or angle grinder) but putting them back together is the real challenge :D

 

Thanks

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ok i have another question

about agm gas mags

one of my mags leaks, when if ill it with has the gas comes straight out the top

(its not the valve stopper) is it possible the the valve spring broke

 

and another thing, whats that small thing in front of the valve stopper

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Hold the magazine so that gravity pulls the BBs from the hopper towards the highcap mech at the bottom (generally downwards, but in p90 and bizon it will be sideways)

 

As you put the magazine in the gun, it will jump by 3-5 BBs as they load into the feed tube of your AEG, If there are any gaps in the BBs on the teeth it will most likley spin out(here's looking at you p90 users :P)

 

Fruitcake, I just got my first MPEG, a Wellfire R9 P90. Tested it this morning, and couldn't get more than 8 shots off before I needed to rewind the magazine. Followed your advice and instructions, tested the magazines feeding, and at best managed 22 rounds, the rest ranging from 5-15. Am I still doing something wrong, or should I invest in some new magazines?

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No.

 

 

There are many systems but having a gas/spring hybrid bolt action gun would be utterly insane and not even possible.

 

Gas boltie

Manual reset the mechanism by working bolt.

Energy is stored in compressed gas.

The gas sends the BB downrange.

 

Spring boltie

Manual energy input when working the bolt (compressing the spring)

Spring releace sends BB downrange.

 

 

 

I have considered a semi auto gas/spring hybrid. In that the energy of the gas compresses the spring, and the energy stored in the spring then sends the BB out when you pull the trigger.

Its just a silly idea mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the P90 issue, if the mags are broken your best buy is TM highcaps or the new midcaps. To check if they are broken follow this thread.

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...hl=P90+magazine

 

Just to check, are your mags spinning out after 15-20 rounds or are they stopping feeding?

PM me and i can help you troubleshoot.

See trouble, shoot it!

 

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I know that M4/M16 magazines will fit into an SKS Chicom, but I was wondering if the same was true for AK74 magazines (I assume that the curve in 7.62 magazines would be too much)? They shouldn't be much longer, if longer at all, since the real steel rounds are the same length, but I don't have a magazine to test it with, and I would prefer not to just risk it. I'm making a S.T.A.L.K.E.R. loadout, trying to pick the gear and gun for that, an old surplus chest rig and belt kit with a couple general purpose pouches and possibly a backpack seem best, so I don't want to just get a molle rig even if it would be the simplest solution.

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what is the difference between mil-sim and airsoft

 

If you mean Milsim airsoft then:

 

Airsoft is a catch-all name for everything using sub lethal projectile air guns. Mill-sim, IAPSC, and others are variations on airsoft.

 

Milsim is specifically airsoft played with rules to make it as "real life" as possible.

For example:

 

Normal airsoft would let you get hit, you leave the game to regen then you return. Milsim airsoft would require you to call hit, and stay in position for a short time to allow your team mates to get a medic to heal your wounds.

 

returning to the game in normal airsoft would be a simple case of touching your regen point and returning to the game, where milsim would require you to wait until 5-10 of your team are together and for you to stay together as a fireteam.

 

Theese are by no means definate rules for milsim, and I just mention them as examples. Different milsim games will have different rules regarding all sorts of things.

 

 

 

There is also Milsim in terms of kit wearing, this is normally refered to as geardoism. Simply involves wearing the exact same kit as your chosen real soldier/police/rebel/criminal/whatever.

To be milsim in this way would require anal efforts to get your wristwatch the same, your bootlaces tied in the same way, and the same wear and fading on kit and weapons.

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Dog Gammit!

I want a gun that could be used with or without gas... I know you can get a replacement bolt for VSRs and the Kar 98k but in the middle of a match if you run out of gas with a 98k itd be hard to swap a bolt haha.. I'll stick to none gas sniper rifles then haha

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