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The "dumb question" thread


Gorf

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it was about a gbb

i have shot a .22 and it didn't have any recoil

 

Then it wasn't loaded. Or it was an air rifle. Either way, you are a pillock.

 

Having fired both .22lr and a GBBr, I'd say the felt recoil is roughly the same, but the GBBr does it slower, if you catch my drift.

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large nicad = 1200-1300 mah

large nimh = 1700 - 3000 mah

 

I have a large 2400 mAh Ni-CD :P And nowadays, Ni-MHs can go up to quite a bit more than 3000, try 4600! :blink:.

 

Mini batteries are made up of sub-c cells, large batteries are made up of bigger 2/3A cells...

 

Wrong! It's the other way round - 'large' batteries are Sub-C and 'small' are 2/3A. Other than that, all correct.

 

Getting an AK gearbox into a G36 would be possible , but you would have to buy at least a new nozzle, selector plate and trigger, it might be more trouble than it's worth.

 

Stu.

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Then it wasn't loaded. Or it was an air rifle. Either way, you are a pillock.

 

Having fired both .22lr and a GBBr, I'd say the felt recoil is roughly the same, but the GBBr does it slower, if you catch my drift.

 

 

HAHAHA- no

 

just no

 

I have fired a .22lr rifle and if i wasen't seeing holes appearing in the target i wouldn't know it had fired! i was wearing ear-defs but no shock absorbing anything, hell i was in a T-shirt!

 

 

@ stuey: i was just giving rough estimates. I know that large type batteries come in some silly large capacities theese days. :)

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Would an AK gearbox fit in a G36 without modifications? I'm not sure, but they're both V3 so I think it would.

 

The nozzles are different lenghts to fit the different hop units, and the selector plates are different shapes to fit the differing selector functions. The trigger is also different but that is mainly cosmetic.

 

There may be more but i can't think of it right now.

Indeed there is more.

 

The AK makes use of a rather odd gear-thing to link the selector lever to the selector plate rather than the more conventional way the G36 does it.

That shouldn't be a big deal though. You can just bin all the AK47 junk and fit a G36 selector plate.

 

There's also a large right-angle bracket clamped into the top of the G36 gearbox (as an attachment point for the stock IIRC.

This lump isn't present on the AK47 and so would need to be sourced from another G36 gearbox or as an after-market part.

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here's one. Does anyone make an extended solid stock for TM AKs that allows a 9.6v large batt pack to be fitted?

No idea, but if you want that sort of power in a small package, look no further than the Flight Power 'Eon 30, 7.4v 2200mah' lipo. £30, ish. :)

 

This shares the same physical dimensions as an airsoft 8.4v 'mini' & gives a slightly higher rof than a 9.6v 4300 subc (large) nimh.

 

You can also expect 6000 - 8000 rnds between charges, as opposed the 5000ish you'd get from the nimh, in a 'normal' sub 350fps set up.

 

I've been lipo for years, now have a pair of these & for 350's & below need no other bateries.

 

Go lipo Punky, you won't regret it. ;)

 

 

Greg.

 

PS, Anyone want to make me an offer on a load of old nicads/nimh's? :D

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On the subject of springs.

 

 

An AEG main spring will slowly loose its strenght as it is used, and some lower quality springs will see a large drop in the first 500-2000 rounds.

 

Some examples of what i have seen: Stock TM spring after many hundreads of thousands of rounds still putting out 260FPS where it was 275fps new (AK47 bone stock several years old)

Chinese spring started at 305FPS dropped to 280FPS after a few hundread rounds and then after about 100k rounds was firing 250.

 

Springs really do vary between companys. The better quality spring will keep its strenght longer, and will show little drop in the "break in" period. A lower quality spring will show a larger drop initially and will lower slightly faster over time.

 

In my experiance putting x many rounds to lower the FPS is silly and rarely works. I have allways found that replacing the spring is much quicker and gives far superior results.

I have often heard site marshals tell people to put mag through a gun to lower the FPS to under the sites limit if they failed, but i have also seen them tell people to put a mag through to drain the battery for the same reason. Both ways will fail terribly.

 

As for clipping a spring, this will also work to change your FPS quickly.

You would not be able to easly work out how much you will need to cut off to get the right ammount, there is a way, but its complicated. You should start by cutting one coil off, chronoing and if still to hot, cutting another coil off.

This would obviously take a lot of time, especially if you do not have your own chrono and have to go to a game site to test the FPS!!

 

I would recomend you put the clipped end of the spring into the piston, as it may fall off the spring guide. Its unlikley but i'd worry about it.

Also you might want to bend the end of the clipped end flat so it sits better in the piston, again most likley wont cause a problem, but you dont want the spring to buckle.

 

The only real problem you would have is that if you where to cut the spring very short it might be shorter than the distance between its place in the piston and spring guide. This situation you would have a spring that rattels around when the piston is left forward, and the gun would "boing" when fired, annoying but not a real problem. If you where to cut it to silly short lenght it could fall of the spring guide and get caught in the mechanism, but if you had cut it that short it wouldn't fire the gun! (maby it would but with FPS figures in two digets)

 

 

 

I know very little on the subject of lipos. but i am happy for anyone to sent me nicads and nimis if they are not using them :P

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Some examples of what i have seen: Stock TM spring after many hundreads of thousands of rounds still putting out 260FPS where it was 275fps new (AK47 bone stock several years old)

Chinese spring started at 305FPS dropped to 280FPS after a few hundread rounds and then after about 100k rounds was firing 250.

 

That isn't neccesarily down to the spring alone. There is a strong possibility an airleak has developed to see that kind of drop-off.

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That isn't neccesarily down to the spring alone. There is a strong possibility an airleak has developed to see that kind of drop-off.

 

 

Yay for the wonders of gearbox maintanence.

 

Yes there are other factors that can lower the FPS from a perfect system, bit in the cases above I have worked on the guns and make sure the compression was perfect, and once the china MP5 had a new M90 spring it jumped back to 315fps.

 

 

But you are quite right, if you see a drop of FPS you might have an air leek somewhere. Good gearbox building will stop this beeing a problem. Getting someone who knows the ins and outs of an AEG will take an hour or so to dissasemble, clean, reconditon and reassemble pretty much any AEG.

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On the subject of springs.

 

 

An AEG main spring will slowly loose its strenght as it is used, and some lower quality springs will see a large drop in the first 500-2000 rounds.

 

Some examples of what i have seen: Stock TM spring after many hundreads of thousands of rounds still putting out 260FPS where it was 275fps new (AK47 bone stock several years old)

Chinese spring started at 305FPS dropped to 280FPS after a few hundread rounds and then after about 100k rounds was firing 250.

 

Springs really do vary between companys. The better quality spring will keep its strenght longer, and will show little drop in the "break in" period. A lower quality spring will show a larger drop initially and will lower slightly faster over time.

 

In my experiance putting x many rounds to lower the FPS is silly and rarely works. I have allways found that replacing the spring is much quicker and gives far superior results.

I have often heard site marshals tell people to put mag through a gun to lower the FPS to under the sites limit if they failed, but i have also seen them tell people to put a mag through to drain the battery for the same reason. Both ways will fail terribly.

 

As for clipping a spring, this will also work to change your FPS quickly.

You would not be able to easly work out how much you will need to cut off to get the right ammount, there is a way, but its complicated. You should start by cutting one coil off, chronoing and if still to hot, cutting another coil off.

This would obviously take a lot of time, especially if you do not have your own chrono and have to go to a game site to test the FPS!!

 

I would recomend you put the clipped end of the spring into the piston, as it may fall off the spring guide. Its unlikley but i'd worry about it.

Also you might want to bend the end of the clipped end flat so it sits better in the piston, again most likley wont cause a problem, but you dont want the spring to buckle.

 

The only real problem you would have is that if you where to cut the spring very short it might be shorter than the distance between its place in the piston and spring guide. This situation you would have a spring that rattels around when the piston is left forward, and the gun would "boing" when fired, annoying but not a real problem. If you where to cut it to silly short lenght it could fall of the spring guide and get caught in the mechanism, but if you had cut it that short it wouldn't fire the gun! (maby it would but with FPS figures in two digets)

 

 

 

I know very little on the subject of lipos. but i am happy for anyone to sent me nicads and nimis if they are not using them :P

I don't see the question.

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I don't see the question.

Thanks SB

 

What changes have been made to Lipo batteries to make them safer over the various generations of type?

Please keep the thread clear of techie discussions. It's for noobs like me who want to ask basic questions without the responses being too complex or disparaging.

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Thanks SB

 

Please keep the thread clear of techie discussions. It's for noobs like me who want to ask basic questions without the responses being too complex or disparaging.

 

Indeed.

 

I guess some tech-talk is inevitable if the answer to an apparently simple question warrants it.

I'd rather it didn't become filled with a variety of random soap-box lectures though. :)

 

Actually, while I'm here, I have a question...

 

I'm looking at getting a replica LaRue or Daniel Defence RIS for my M4.

I see they are listed in standard sizes such as 9", 10", 11" etc.

What does that length relate to?

I assume it's the overall length of the item, right?

 

I ask cos it's roughly 7" from the front sight to the receiver on an M4 so I assume that a 9" RIS (unless it's one with a cut-out in the top) would require the removal of the front sight assembly.

 

Is that right or is it faulty thinking?

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how does an airsoft tracer work?

i understand that on a real firearm a charge is detonated that burns so that the shooter can track it

some are activated once the bullet is far enough away from the shooter that it is hard for the enemy to track it back to the shooter

whats the point of an airsoft tracer then and how does it work?

unless glow in the dark bbs are used i cant see any way for a tracer to make an impact on an airsoft game

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