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The "dumb question" thread


Gorf

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how does an airsoft tracer work?

i understand that on a real firearm a charge is detonated that burns so that the shooter can track it

some are activated once the bullet is far enough away from the shooter that it is hard for the enemy to track it back to the shooter

whats the point of an airsoft tracer then and how does it work?

unless glow in the dark bbs are used i cant see any way for a tracer to make an impact on an airsoft game

 

doyou mean the Madbull tracer BBs? with luminous paint??

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the tracer make sthe bbs glow. You attach a tracer unit to the front of your aeg, the unit looks like a silencer, it runs of aaa batteries. The special tracer bbs mixed in with normal bbs go through the unit and the tracer ones come out glowing. this is due to the tracer unit containging a light (uv) whick lihgts up the tracer bbs.

 

Oh and it looks cool in Cqb games where its dark

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well my last question hasnt been answered yet...and i have another one

i am pretty sure that kwa and ksc are the same gun, and that the new ns2 guns and the system 7 guns are the same.

but will this: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=27260 mag work with the kwa ns2 mac11?

im 99% sure it will but i just want confirmation.

thanks guys.

 

Edit:

never mind.

i just found additional information that tells me that it will work.

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I am rather new to GBB's so bear with me ;)

 

 

Is a KSC G18c need any upgrades to function properly? I really wanted a GBB 18c, and it seems KSC is the way to go, but I want to be sure it will function great stock because I don't want to buy any upgrade parts a few magazines down the road.

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Yes, but it seems that the valves can possibly break fast?

 

I've seen rocket valves break on both a ksc g18 and kwa g17 after about 12 mags on GG.

But on the other hand I've seen more then a dusin ksc/kwa glocks go severel hundred rounds without this problem.

Seems as the weak points in these models are almost always the mag-catch and rocket valve.

I've used three SD valves so far without a problem.

 

 

 

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I have never seen the floating valve break and i have seen quite a few heavy abused KSC/KWA glocks.

 

The KSC g18c is a nice gun, there is a regular problem that i keep hearing about in that the gun looses full auto or semi auto and only gets to use one fire mode, this is caused by people misusing the shot-selector as a saftey catch.

Pull the slide back and hold it to change from semi-full or back and only put it in the middle position when you want to disasemble it.

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I'd go as far as to say that the KSC G18 isn't really a wise purchase for a newb.

 

It can work just fine.

Alas, there's a bunch of tiny parts in the selector mechanism which can come loose and go missing completely.

Once that happens your gun is borked.

If you buy one you MUST keep an eye on stuff like the fire selector, the pin at the back of the slide and the grub-screw under the rear sight.

 

Also, it's always been my opinion that you should pull the slide back 5mm when changing from semi to auto.

This is not always required but if you force the selector you will damage the gun.

Pulling back the slide 5mm ensures this isn't a problem.

Bear in mind, of course, that this, in turn, might mean you need to drop the mag in order to move the slide.

Again, this isn't exactly the sort of thing that a newb needs to be worrying about.

 

Lastly, setting the selector mid-way between semi and auto can work as a "safe" position but I would really suggest people DO NOT do this.

The "safe" position is very close to the position the selector needs to be in when you remove it.

If you put the gun in the "safe" position and then catch the selector control on your holster then it can pull the selector right off.

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I'd go as far as to say that the KSC G18 isn't really a wise purchase for a newb.

 

It can work just fine.

Alas, there's a bunch of tiny parts in the selector mechanism which can come loose and go missing completely.

Once that happens your gun is borked.

If you buy one you MUST keep an eye on stuff like the fire selector, the pin at the back of the slide and the grub-screw under the rear sight.

 

I know that the selector switch is a big pain, lots of people I know have the 18c (<3 the full auto!) so I was considering a G17 instead because it has no selector switch (semi-only, however <_< ). Either that or I could just go with a gas m9 variant. I only just started getting into the GBB world, so I will get something that is less troublesome. Thanks for the help ;)

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It IS a nice gun, especially on auto.

I have what might be one of the oldest ones in the UK and it has never failed on me.

They just need looking after and, most importantly, they need an experienced owner who can look at the gun and spot when it needs something tightening or adjusting etc.

It's one of the classic guns where you pull it out of the holster and realise that a bit is missing unless you're careful. :(

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It IS a nice gun, especially on auto.

I have what might be one of the oldest ones in the UK and it has never failed on me.

They just need looking after and, most importantly, they need an experienced owner who can look at the gun and spot when it needs something tightening or adjusting etc.

It's one of the classic guns where you pull it out of the holster and realise that a bit is missing unless you're careful. :(

 

I know, so many people I know love it, but maybe if they just fixed those finicky fire selectors :(

 

I am really experienced with my AEG's, but when it comes to GBB I just am really clueless, so the 18c might not be for me, yet. So I will stick with a 17, as I do love glocks and hate to settle for less.

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The other day when i was working with my unfinished pro win gerbox, i wanted to start and the electrical part. In my other m4 there is two metal tabs inside the gearbox wich you can attach wires on to. In my pro win there is also two tabs on the outside. And when i looked at my mp5 it was metal on the selector switch. I`am confused :(

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