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Understandably one can judge the whole supply of an airsoft gun by the problems of a turkey example- and turkeys have always will continue turn up. But this does not necessarily mean that the whole supply of a particular weapon are all turkeys.

 

I have put thousands of rounds on CO2 through my SCAR and nothing has broken! What can i say.

 

If one were to cite a consistent problem of far eastern suppliers is their inconsistent quality control. One production run will produce exquisite examples but a production run a few weeks later has a different workforce shift who are very lax about machining or assembly. This applies to all airsoft weapon manufacturers.

 

 

 

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Cant find HK on google, could you post a link please?

it seems that the nozzle and the rod are glued. what can be the safest way to unscrew this?   thanks in advance

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?  

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my scar is shooting pretty good on propane! i got one of the first batches and of course my firing delay pin snapped but after that it shoots like a champ! question though, for some reason my rifle shoots bb's in a curve to the right... i changed the hop up on it but still no difference. anyone else have this problem?

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Considering buying one of these... I love GBBs, but had bad experience with them before, so being careful now.

 

If I'm going to be using green gas in it, what parts will I need to replace, if any, and what problems can I expect in the long-ish run?

 

I've read through most of the reviews and threads I can find on this gun, but most of the time when people mention a problem they've had, they don't say whether they've been using green or co2...

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hey whats a stinger hop?

 

An enhanced hop-up design lol

 

The WE SCAR seems pretty good. Price wise, its pure gold. My friend got one and I like it (despite being a firm believer in the WA system). It kicks hard, shoots reliably (for now) and has a pretty good FPS output.

Not sure how much range it gets but we'll figure it out.

 

If WE made a steel trigger group they'd have some really, really good guns. When was the last time you heard of an Inokatsu breaking something serious? :D

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I use a regular speedloader and it work great, you just have to put your fingers around the mag lips and load the bb´s in, that simple ;)

 

At this time my only problem with the Scar is the bolt-stop it´s just to loose to be 100% effective, that and bb´s curving left in my case even with the stinger hopup.

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I pulled the trigger and gone of of these things. It should be in the mail by the end of the day...If all goes well, I will have it in my hands in 2 days.

 

From reading the entries, there seems to be quite a few things to take note of...Namely:

 

-Broken Stock Hinge Plates

-Torn hop buckings (older gen with the green buckings)

-Splitting BBs

-Denting BBs

-Jammed BBs in the chamber

-Hooking

-Lack of hop effect (probably due to torn hop buckings)

-Unreliable bolt lock feature

-Screws getting loose (and lost)

-Part #66 snapping

 

I plan on using duster gas/134a/152a gas through mine. On a WE SCAR that I fired at the AEX range last Fall, it cycled fine with the bolt cycling all the way back and the bolt lock feature being fully functional.

 

From the readings, I found that most of the issues noted above are more prominent with those who use CO2 magazines.

 

I figured that since duster gas cycles the gun fine...why not? I'm trading off power and rate of fire for reliability/durability. Granted that the gun was shooting in the neighborhood of 260 FPS with .20g BBs, the power is acceptable for CQB games. With green gas, it was shooting around 340 FPS with .20g BBs. If I could get range with it, I will be more than happy to field it.

 

I have a few questions though...

 

Would an NPAS allow for higher FPS? Or is it just something that would allow for the gun to get lower FPS output?

 

I read that the stock nozzle's internals could be adjusted for higher FPS....is this true?

 

The stock black hop...do you get "over hop" at the zero setting using .20g BBs? I read that the gun offer better accuracy with heavier weight BBs. With the FPS I will most likely be chucking (sub 300 with .20g BBs), I will pobably be using .25g BBs.

 

If anyone could provide me with more information about the rifle, it would be greatly appreciated. I will be more than happy to post my findings after I do some shooting tests with the gun.

 

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The NPAS only adjusts the FPS from highest; bout 480 or so, to lowest at 150. There's a vid for this:

 

 

But what will increase FPS is the Rhino airsoft BOMBER speedbolt (note-added bonus of better ROF):

 

 

I have both and its a great combination. You can also get the NPAS with rod:

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=32247

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Thanks for the input.

 

I have also read somewhere that you could actually adjust the fps of the gun by changing the factory setting on the nozzle. Is this true?

Don't think the standard nozle offers an real adjustability but the NPAS is excellent. With the stinger Hop and NPAS using .28BB's I'm getting good range on the site I play on - on par with an AEG and good accuracy too.

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Thanks for the input.

 

I have also read somewhere that you could actually adjust the fps of the gun by changing the factory setting on the nozzle. Is this true?

 

Yes it is possible, not the best way to do it but it certainly is possible! Just check http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.ph...;p=26520#p26446

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Using duster gas at 40 some degrees isn't working as expected.

 

Using propane/green gas however, I need to use at least .40g BBs to get a flatter trajectory. It still sails high some...but thats after about 230 feet.

 

This is with the hop set at its lowest setting.

 

-----------------------

 

I just cleaned the inner barrel and at the lowest hop setting .28g BBs were NOT curving up anymore with propane.

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
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It was about 44 degrees outside when I was shooting using propane. At that temperature, PSI for propane is 71.

 

PSI for 134a is at about 49.

----------------------------------------------

 

At 70 degrees, propane has a pressure of 110 PSI. At the same temp, 134a has a pressure of 69.

 

Therefore, running propane at 44 degrees with propane is like running the gun with 134a at 70 degrees.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a chrono to accurately measure the velocity the gun is shooting at.

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Using duster gas at 40 some degrees isn't working as expected.

 

Using propane/green gas however, I need to use at least .40g BBs to get a flatter trajectory. It still sails high some...but thats after about 230 feet.

 

This is with the hop set at its lowest setting.

 

-----------------------

 

I just cleaned the inner barrel and at the lowest hop setting .28g BBs were NOT curving up anymore with propane.

 

Just get a black bucking or sand/dremel excess rubber from the green one. Clean and degrease part #117 too ;)

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I actually have the black bucking installed in it already. Serial number is in the 800's.

 

I already cleaned the inner barrel, with the hop bucking in it. I have the hop set to the lowest setting (the dial turned all the way down towards you (with the bump on the gray ring that pushes down on the ball bearing).

 

Looking through the inner barrel, it looks like the hop bucking isn't even being pushed down. I'm sure the material from the hop packing pushes down into the barrel...just that it looks like there's not anything being pushed down.

 

With that setting, I can get shots to 150 feet with .25g BBs. Some curve down at that rage....some curve up some at that range. Definitely skirmishable but definitely not as accurate as my KJW M4.

 

Overall, I am pleased with the WE SCAR so far. 100 foot shots are pretty much guaranteed kills in 3 shots. With a TM AEG, a 100ft shot with no wind is easy as pie. Still, the rifle proves to be usable.

 

Temperature: 45 degrees

Propellant: Propane

Propellant Pressure: 70 PSI

BB Used: Airsoft Elite .25g BB

----------------------------------------------

 

Come spring/summer time when temperatures shoot up to 70-90 degrees, 134a gas will have a pressure ranging in the neighborhood of 69-82. At that pressure, the stock's hinge plate is safe.

 

At 70 degrees Propane's pressure rises to 110 PSI. At 90 degrees, propane's pressure is at 150 PSI.

 

Using 134a gas during the summer is highly recommended.

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Update: Put another 300+ rounds through the rifle at about 46 degrees. Once the magazine cools down, BBs sky rocket. I'll need to use something heavier than .28g BBs at cold temperatures. Done with testing for now....

 

All the shooting done was with the hop set at the lowest setting. Unfortunately, I could not turn the hop down further.

 

The past couple of days, I have shot approximately 600 rounds through the rifle.

 

When it warms up some, I'll check and see how the gun performs once again. 70 degrees would be a good temp to shoot for...that won't be happening for a good 3 months.

 

From reading through the forums and a few others, it seems like the CNC part #66 from thewarstore works great. I have read some issues with TS steel parts so I'll avoid that.

 

--------------------------------------

 

Has anyone else had the same findings as me?

 

Gun shooting straight when the mag was warmer....shots curving up as the mag cools down

 

 

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
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Does anyone have thoughts on RA-Tech's custom version of WE's guns? http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/rag/ra_cus...ustome_work.php They come with the NPAS, Stinger Hop-up, free shipping, RA-Tech's (I assume just reinforced) firing pin, and their valve locker as well.

 

At $375 for the SCAR version, I may pull the trigger on this instead of a new KWA AEG.

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Does anyone have thoughts on RA-Tech's custom version of WE's guns? http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/rag/ra_cus...ustome_work.php They come with the NPAS, Stinger Hop-up, free shipping, RA-Tech's (I assume just reinforced) firing pin, and their valve locker as well.

 

At $375 for the SCAR version, I may pull the trigger on this instead of a new KWA AEG.

 

If it has the stinger hop, steel part #66 and firing pin....full NPAS assembly with the base....that'd be a good deal.

 

I purchased mine from evike.com for $284 shipped...it was bone stock

 

I'm looking to get an NPAS steel firing pin and steel part #66 as well..

 

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im using straight propane...no silicone...ill do some firing today then put silicone in the next charge of gas i put in the mag

 

Seriously ... don't! If you want to lub the mag o-rings just use a bit of green or r134a and discharge the gas manually, putting silicone oil on the hopup and part #117 is just asking to have very bad accuracy! The hop up, part #117 and barrel must be dirt and oil free to function properly. All moving parts and other parts that need maintenance and have oil applied are easily accessible with basic field stripping.

 

I'm not very familiar with the SCAR hop-up since it is a bit different but i never seen the behaviour you're describing, at least without green gas being used. I've seen a similar problem happening with the use of green, when the mag gets very cold it starts to vent gas and push liquid green in to the chamber getting the hop drenched in silicon oil and water from the atmosphere that turns into liquid due to the very cold temps, the shots start to be a bit erratic due to the oil+water present in the hop/part #117.

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