Ian24 Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 I hope to have my mod ready for a new style of HOP UP that will take VSR rubbers and barrels. Hopefully it will increase the accuracy. A friend of mine is machining the parts and I hope to have an update within several weeks... For now I can only test it in my M4 but it will work in any replica that can use the brass chamber... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Yeah i did. any reason u ask that? PM'd. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad-Larkin Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Keep us posted ian, i for one would be very interested in being able to use my vsr rubbers in my scar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian24 Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I will... The only problem I still encounter is how to increase or decrease hop without the system resetting itself due to the recoil... I have several solutions but they are all theoraticly and it takes time (alot of time actually) test and adept the system further... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Can anyone post a picture of their NPAS setting for me? I want about 310 FPS on green gas - where abouts should I be setting it? Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Very near the front so all you can see is the thin black rubber washer. i had mine like that and it did 320-330fps on green gas at around 23c with 0.2g BB's. Stinger = great; well at least compared to the standard hop anyway. I had em in both the SCAR and M4 and instead of shooting flat for 30 feet and then vertical i could now do good double taps or short bursts on target at around 25metres and that was without really tweaking it too much! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I ordered the Speed Bolt and the NPAS, along with 4 mags. Anyone know rough shipping times to the UK from Airsoft Buddy? Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 I've been playing with the NPAS. When you adjust the valve forward, do you then screw the whole nozzle onto the rod some more? It seems like every time you move the valve the rod has room to be screwed on a little further. I assume this is to help stop the valve slipping position once set? It's threaded, so I assume you're meant to screw it in that far, but just thought I'd check? Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Ok, it seems like it's just me reading this anymore, but here goes. Installed the Speed Bolt and NPAS. It's running very nicely on green gas. No chrono, but I think it's somewhere around 330FPS, or under. This is with the NPAS all the way forward (so all you can see is the black o-ring) and Speed Bolt. However, my bolt now does not lock back at all, unless you hold the bolt catch in, which is annoying. I think this is down to play in the magwell/boltcatch area of the lower receiver. Might shim it somewhere to try and hold the magazine in better? Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 It's definitely the mag catch. If you fire the SCAR whilst holding the magazine, it locks every time. Whilst examining the mag catch, the right side flew off! Grub screw came loose. Put it back on, and encountered a new 'quirk'. The mag catch on the left side works fine. But the mag catch on the right side sticks in when you press it. You either have to click it back in by pressing the left hand side of the catch, or if the gun is cocked, pull the trigger, which pops it back in. The gun itself is shooting awesomely. It is now very gas efficient, and without much loss in felt recoil. The problem with the bolt not locking back, which is caused by the mag catch, is only a minor thing, but I'll get round to fixing it eventually. I'm opening the trigger unit tomorrow to take a look. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 You can modify the bolt catch lever to engage the magazine a bit more, by hammering it down (while its in a vice out of the gun). The bolt catch on the SCAR and PDW are made from steel, but soft steel so if you heat it up a little and hammer it down with a plastic hammer/small hammer, you can bend the steel slightly to get the engagement you need to have the bolt lock back. Simple mods that don't cost an arm or a leg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Any more details on this? Pics? Which specific part are you talking of bending? Surely it would be easier to fix the magazine catch? The bolt lock would then work, and you'd see more stability in the FPS through a better seal with the mags. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 (edited) However if the mag puts too much pressure on the brass tube, in some cases I gave seen, it pushes on the piston head and increases in friction on the bolt, leading to quicker cooldown, bolt seizing and etc. It happened on some WE M4 and close bolt PDWs. In fact, on the WE and other pistols like some KSC and some WA systems, the magazine gas seal actually moves upwards slightly with the gas pressure, which "sticks" the nozzle to the blowback unit during the firing but is loose during the return. If you push it up too much then the gun does not return, and will not allow smooth cycling, and that is one of the issues with the open bolt PDW. I actually loosened the mag release's hold on the magazine (by filing the top part of the magazine release), but hammered down the bolt catch so it engages the magazine bolt lever a bit more while the mag is still sitting low. It works wonders. Pics to follow. Edited July 8, 2010 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 (edited) Butane torch, and small hammer. Hold bolt catch in a vice, and hammer the area till it looks like that. Its a simple 2 minute fix for all bolt catches which don't lock back on empty. Edited July 9, 2010 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hugh_b Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Tried one of these at a site today and ordered one from tactical quartermaster when i got home! From what I can see here i'm going to need: -N-pas -Stinger hop unit -Possibly a lighter bolt? Anything else you chaps would reccomend? Hugh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 (edited) Wasn't Elite Battle Zone, was it? Ben. EDIT:: I have NPAS and Bomber Airsoft CNC Lightweight Bolt Carrier in mine. Today, I was experiencing slight jams - My NPAS is very tight in the brass chamber. I thought my mags were venting because I'd dropped a couple earlier in the day, but it turns out my bolt wasn't fully returning, as the NPAS keeps getting stuck in the chamber. Fixed it with lube, of course. Edited July 10, 2010 by L4byr1nth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Tempted to pick one of these up again. Had one last year but had no end of problems with it. They improved any over time? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 My serial number is in the three thousand area, and I'm pleased with mine. My bolt catch isn't functioning as it should, but it's a simple fix according to Evil Dan. I've got a weird problem after installing the NPAS and Lightweight Bolt Carrier where my bolt jams before it returns to battery, and vents all the gas in the mag. I *think* I fixed it with lube, but who knows for sure. The NPAS is a very tight fit in the chamber (obviously), and that seems to cause it. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad-Larkin Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 i picked up one recently and had that problem l4byr1nth, pretty sure it just means there isn't enough lube, time will tell tho. Has anyone tried using ranger plates with their mags? If so, which brand works? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 (edited) So i just found a great deal on a WE Scar that someone is selling, 2 Mags included for 150!!! Holy bananas. The Seller has to have the O-ring replaced on the valve and i was looking over the gun for anything problematic. So since im getting a great deal, obviously something is not right? Idk maybe the guy just doesn't care to use it due to whatever and the person who showed me the gun was an airsoft tech who is fixing the valve and from his take, nothings wrong with the gun. If i do get the gun, i know i'll be buying the NPAS kit, Stinger Hopup from RATECH. Are there any gremlins creeping around this machine that i should be wary of? I think 150 is an awesome deal for the gun, but im wondering since im getting such a good deal, what should i buy to keep it a great deal? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. p.s i wanted to know too, whats the FPS on the gun? I was wanting to shoot .25g BBs. Edited July 20, 2010 by GrenadierMasada Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 You will need to shoot heavier BB's than 0.25g's, no matter what the FPS, to get the best from the HOP. Buy a RA Tech NPAS, and you'll be able to shoot at whatever power you want. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 You will need to shoot heavier BB's than 0.25g's, no matter what the FPS, to get the best from the HOP. Buy a RA Tech NPAS, and you'll be able to shoot at whatever power you want. Ben. I thought the NPAS was to dial-down the FPS, and not up??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Depends where you set it, and what kind of valve was fitted to your original nozzle. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Interesting. Well, I'm not sure exactly where its set, i'll have to check once the Oring has been replaced. So i was curious, what should i be looking out for on the SCAR?! I read about some hinge breaking?! Anything else? the Trigger assembly being made of soft metal, needs replaced? Im still getting the NPAS, the Stinger Hopup and the Trigger assembly. Not sure what else is necessary. Does having a better tight-bore help control gas consumption? I'd really appreciate any info regarding the woes of the WE Scar. Is there a certain range of Serial Numbers that would be better over a different series? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Best combination is Bomber Airsoft CNC Lightweight Bolt Carrier for WE SCAR, and RA Tech NPAS, imho. The lightweight bolt gives you a better ROF, but also helps with gas consumption. I'd wear the HOP in first and see what you think, before messing around with the Stinger HOP kit. I find that with green gas and 0.3g Blaster 'Devils', it's suprisingly accurate, and the range is very nice. Having said that, the Stinger has a good reputation, and I'll probably upgrade to it eventually if I can be bothered/I need to. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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