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Cant find HK on google, could you post a link please?

it seems that the nozzle and the rod are glued. what can be the safest way to unscrew this?   thanks in advance

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?  

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Since Kastman doesn't appear to frequent these forums I will make a statement regarding the matter.

 

I do not know this person nor do I have all the information regarding the matter, however I have seen his posts on 2 other boards where he speaks about this "situation".

 

He is located in Sweden as far as I know where we currently have 0C weather pretty much all around and a normal Swedish house during this time of year has an indoor ambient temperature of 20-25C.

 

I am guessing he was using Green Gas as that is the most common power source for Swedish GBB/GBBRs.

 

There is a post on gasguns.info forum from the same guy with some additional details. From that post it seems he modded his recoil spring / guide rod with buffers, but he stated this was prior to receiving the open bolt kit so I do not know if those were in place when the failure occured. If those were in place it could very well explain the failure, but I can't say definitivly if they were or were not installed when the guns broke.

 

Not sure if I can hotlink to an "oposing" forum so you'll have to find your way there, it's under the WETTI section anyways.

 

I do not own a WE SCAR but for everyones sake I hope a reinforced part comes out soon!

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I was using the gun indoors (so 20-25C) with greengas (white can with some camo pattern on it and label et-1000) to test shoot it after I received my openbolt kits (very easy to install btw)

 

Tested it today with another hingeplate, and it worked a lot better and actually held up for the mag I test fired, but had a lot of wear just from that.

 

Still disappointed in the so called "reinforced" hingeplate because its far to unreliably to use in the field, as it will break..

 

Love the scar but wont be able to trust it until RA-tech releases their steel hingeplate or I can mod it so the plates wont break so easily..

 

This is how It looked after one mag (notice the crack at the top):

IMG_3370.jpg

 

Modded the spring quide in the lathe to make a 3mm rubberpad to fit on the end:

IMG_3371.jpg

Edited by Kastman
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Modded the spring quide in the lathe to make a 3mm rubberpad to fit on the end:

 

Mind giving us an update further down the road with your 3mm rubber pad mod? It looks much simpler than the AEG spring mod on gasguns (less 'parts' to mod) and I'll be doing the same thing once I get my SCAR tomorrow smile.gif

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The thing is that you still need to cut 3mm of the rod that is inside the spring and of the thick round part that sits at the end. otherwise the rubber pad wont fit.

 

Ah I see. I don't want to do any irreversable mods to my SCAR yet (I'm getting it a few hrs later tongue.gif), I guess I'll stick with the AEG spring buffer mod.

 

Btw, I've seen people mentioning parts 66 and 27 breaking. Are those two parts the plastic hinge plate and the metal plate with the sling mounts?

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Sorry for double-posting, but I just got my open bolt SCARwink.gif

 

After emptying 3 mags on full auto, I'm officially gonna stop dumping cash on my stupid Classic Army AEG. This will be my primary for all of my wargames from now on biggrin.gif

 

The recoil spring is actually pretty weak compared with the resistive force of my Guarder MEU 150% spring. It probably takes 1/2 a second for the bolt to slam back into battery when the bolt catch is pressed.

 

The bolt catch is also something I like compared to an M4 bolt catch. The paddle sits slightly farther from the body and it feels better when I press against it.

 

I was worried about the broken parts that people are reporting about, but when I field stripped my SCAR, I noticed that WE had put a rubber buffer about twice as thick as the one Kastman made. So far I've seen NO wear on my open bolt SCAR, I'm lovin this gun every minutebiggrin.gif

 

About the rubber buffer, I'm not so sure whether it's only on the open bolt SCAR (full kits) or from the new batch that came out at Armed Forces Company. As far as I know they ran out of their initial stock a few weeks ago so my open bolt SCAR should be the second batch they recieved. The rubber buffer feels very nice (I think its the same stuff that sorbo pads are made of?) and I've got a hunch that even if I used CO2 mags the plastic hinge at the back won't break off. I'll try to get a picture sometime later as it's not in my house right now tongue.gif

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I was worried about the broken parts that people are reporting about, but when I field stripped my SCAR, I noticed that WE had put a rubber buffer about twice as thick as the one Kastman made. So far I've seen NO wear on my open bolt SCAR, I'm lovin this gun every minutebiggrin.gif

 

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?

 

apf2320110222051531226.jpg

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I don't think anyone else has mentioned this yet but I got an RATech open bolt NPAS for my SACR. I have to say it was a piece of cake to install, now adjusting it while its install is another matter... Not sure where it stands with power reduction/adjustability, will have to check it properly over the weekend.

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Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?

 

Argh, I just took pics of it and you beat me to it tongue.gif

 

Yes, thats' the piece I'm talking about. I guess all the full kit open bolt SCARs come with it?

 

 

I don't think anyone else has mentioned this yet but I got an RATech open bolt NPAS for my SACR. I have to say it was a piece of cake to install, now adjusting it while its install is another matter... Not sure where it stands with power reduction/adjustability, will have to check it properly over the weekend.

 

How'd you disassemble the bolt? There's 2 things that I think I need to do to get the nozzle assembly out; which is the phillips screw on the side that secures the plastic rails which the nozzle runs along and the back pin that (i think) holds the nozzle spring in place; but I can't seem to push out the pin at the back for some reason. I'm planning to get myself an NPAS as well.

 

Can you tell me whether the floating valve spring is the same as the ones found in TM 1911s and hi capas? If it is I can increase the FPS of my SCAR with a spare NineBall floating valve spring that came with my dyna piston head for my MEU.

 

 

 

 

Can anyone tell me whether the hop up of the WE M14 is the same as the WE SCAR open bolt? I'm planning to get the VFC 8 inch barrel extension and a RATECH M14 short 6.01mm tightbore to turn my CQB SCAR to the long barrel config.

 

Also, after emptying 4 mags on mostly full auto, and racking the bolt about 40 times I field stripped it again just for kicks. There were some metal shavings on my bolt catch when I disassembled the gun so I was thinking that the SCARs might have the same problems as the WA and AGM M4 GBBrs with the bolt or bolt catch wearing down. However a quick inspection of both the SCAR's bolt and bolt catch seem to indicate very minimal wear.

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Is the new open bolt made out of steel? The old closed bolt ones had steel bolts and bolt catches so wear was never really a problem even after almost 10,000 rounds.

 

No idea, but it felt too light to be steel. I'll try sticking my AEG motors to the bolt and bolt catch next week to see if its steel.

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Argh, I just took pics of it and you beat me to it tongue.gif

 

Yes, thats' the piece I'm talking about. I guess all the full kit open bolt SCARs come with it?

 

I actually saw it here, http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/frogman-myblog/article?mid=9226 and got curious to what it was. But i then completely forgot about it until you said that your SCAR had it.

 

Can someone translate what is said in that article ?

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I actually saw it here, http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/frogman-myblog/article?mid=9226 and got curious to what it was. But i then completely forgot about it until you said that your SCAR had it.

 

Can someone translate what is said in that article ?

 

The buffer at the end of the recoil spring guide is exactly what I have in my open bolt SCAR. The pics of my buffer are in my laptop at uni, so I cna't upload it right now (i'm at home).

 

I don't think I've ever used sorbo pads in Hong Kong because I've never found a need for them, however judging from people's descriptions of what it is and looking at pics of it for AEG piston heads I'm fairly certain the black rectangle buffer is sorbo. It's basically what Kastman did with his SCAR but the pad is three times bigger than Kastman's 3mm pad (I said two before, but it looks three times now that I looked at the pic from the blog). The recoil rod seem to be shortened along with the plastic bolt 'block' at the end of the recoil rod. Also note that the plate where the recoil buffer is held against have a cut parallel to the recoil rod. The cut is on both sides of the plate and as far as I can tell it seems to do nothing.

 

I think the pad actually mitigates some of the felt recoil of the gun. To me the SCAR had a slightly higher recoil than an AGM M4 GBBR I've played with before, as well as the recoil being sharper than the M4s. I'm using green gas in my mags and only manage to mag dump once + 4-5 extra bbs before the mag runs out of gas.

 

Oh and pulling back the charging handle is VERY smooth biggrin.gif The only friction I felt was part of the charging handle rubbing itself against the upper reciever. The bolt assembly (bolt + the rail on top with the charging handle) runs along a set of wheels on the rail, and the wheel on the hammer below. It seems like the bolt never actually touches the reciever on the sides; when I field strip my gun for the first time WE only applied grease on the bolt assembly rails and the bottom of the bolt that touches the hammer. Adjusting the hop-up is somewhat of a pain though, I dunno if I'm doing it wrong but there's not a lot of leeway for you to move your finger when it's touching the hop wheel (and I don't think I have chubby fingerstongue.gif).

 

I also tried to take the barrel assembly out today. From the manual provided by WE (it's actually for the closed bolt system....they never made an open bolt manual the lazy bastards) all I needed to do was to unscrew the 6 'star' (they're called torx, right?) screws on the gun and push/pull the barrel assembly out but it didn't work, it was still completely solid with the 6 screws undone.

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I also tried to take the barrel assembly out today. From the manual provided by WE (it's actually for the closed bolt system....they never made an open bolt manual the lazy bastards) all I needed to do was to unscrew the 6 'star' (they're called torx, right?) screws on the gun and push/pull the barrel assembly out but it didn't work, it was still completely solid with the 6 screws undone.

 

You actually just need to take out the bottom rail. I used to disassemble mine the hard way (bottom rail plus the torque screws) then found out just needed to take out the two screws holding the bottom rail together. Maybe the barrel is loctited, somehow?

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How'd you disassemble the bolt? There's 2 things that I think I need to do to get the nozzle assembly out; which is the phillips screw on the side that secures the plastic rails which the nozzle runs along and the back pin that (i think) holds the nozzle spring in place; but I can't seem to push out the pin at the back for some reason. I'm planning to get myself an NPAS as well.

 

Can you tell me whether the floating valve spring is the same as the ones found in TM 1911s and hi capas? If it is I can increase the FPS of my SCAR with a spare NineBall floating valve spring that came with my dyna piston head for my MEU.

 

The bolt wasn't too hard to take apart. You have to remove the 3 small screws that hold in the black plastic 'guide rails' for the loading/gas nozzle thingy and remove the pin at the back of the bolt (this holds the spring that keeps the nozzle in the bolt). Watch out with this pin as one end is tapered, as in it'll only come out and go in one end first. Once this is done you can remove the nozzle. The nozzle itself is in two halves held together by a small pin in the middle of the nozzles body. Just pop this out and the original plastic valve and its spring drop out. Just replace the plastic valve with the NPAS valve and use the original spring and rebuild everything and you're good to go.

 

The RAtech NPAS's packaging said it was for TM and WE if I remember correctly so it could be the hi-cappa one you mention, but don't hold me to it as I've never seen the valve of a 1911 or hi-cappa.

 

 

@faramon - yarp, that flippin' spring in the mags was a major PITA until I worked out a routine for dealing with it.

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So, it seems like everything has been fixed with the new scar open bolt? I'm not talking about old scars that have been fitted with the new open bolt system.

 

Can't tell for sure, since I think the green gas cans have a lower pressure than propane that many are running, so I don't think I can speak for those that use propane. Nobody seem to have tried it with CO2 mags either, so I dunno how will the full kit SCARs hold up to that.

 

 

You actually just need to take out the bottom rail. I used to disassemble mine the hard way (bottom rail plus the torque screws) then found out just needed to take out the two screws holding the bottom rail together. Maybe the barrel is loctited, somehow?

 

 

Ah I see..why can't WE get the disassembly right dry.gif They also spelt position as 'poison' in their manualstongue.gif I'll try to remove my barrel and if its locklited I'll report back.

 

The bolt wasn't too hard to take apart. You have to remove the 3 small screws that hold in the black plastic 'guide rails' for the loading/gas nozzle thingy and remove the pin at the back of the bolt (this holds the spring that keeps the nozzle in the bolt). Watch out with this pin as one end is tapered, as in it'll only come out and go in one end first. Once this is done you can remove the nozzle. The nozzle itself is in two halves held together by a small pin in the middle of the nozzles body. Just pop this out and the original plastic valve and its spring drop out. Just replace the plastic valve with the NPAS valve and use the original spring and rebuild everything and you're good to go.

 

The RAtech NPAS's packaging said it was for TM and WE if I remember correctly so it could be the hi-cappa one you mention, but don't hold me to it as I've never seen the valve of a 1911 or hi-cappa.

 

Do you HAVE to remove the guide rails? I don't want to mess with taking the whole bolt assembly apart since I only want to stick a NPAS into the bolt. Actually I'm sure the TM and WE open bolt guns use the same floating valve but what I was hoping for was the floating valve spring being the same kind as well.

 

If the floating valve spring on the SCAR is the same as TM 1911/2011; then you can make the SCAR hit the highest FPS by using:

 

the R.C.C. brass floating valve (a few times heavier than the stock plastic ones, so the valve will remain open longer to allow gas to push the bb),

the NineBall floating valve spring (it's kinda like a 150% spring for the floating valve, again it keeps the vavle open longer),

the NineBall Hop rubber for a better air seal between the hop up unit and the nozzle head,

and of course CO2 mags.

 

I was also hoping to add the VFC 8 inch extension to the SCAR to make it the sniper version, and stick a RATECH M14 (S) barrel into the SCAR for accuracy and FPS boost. I suppose with the mods above I can theorectically get the SCAR to push the maximum FPS possible (theorectically because HK's laws forbid me from going over 2 Joules of energy).

 

I'm only planning to put the NPAS for now to get it to shoot at 1J to 1.3J, which would be perfect for the CQB games I normally play.

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UPDATE PEOPLE!

 

Okay, so I tried fitting the Nineball floating valve spring into the gun today. It works, but I had horrible gas consumption. Seems like the mag valves don't let out enough gas to compress the floating valve spring effectively. The ROF dropping too; the speed was around the same as the RATECH CNC steel bolt prototype (so somewhere close to the ROF of a real steel SCAR from what I gather on youtube). I think using CO2 mags or red gas will allow the bolt to move as well as using green gas on a stock SCAR. Note that I saw gas clouds coming out of the muzzle end as well as the ejection port, so I'm sure there was more gas entering the barrel to push the BBs.

 

The floating valve spring on the WE SCAR also feels stiffer than the TM springs in 1911/hi capa. I think that if you replace the stock valve spring on the SCAR with a stock TM spring, the ROF should increase slightly and you'll also get a drop in FPS without using a NPAS; I'm going to try the TM spring tomorrow. Unfortunately I don't have access to a chrono so I can't give you guys the FPS of the SCAR.

 

SCAR users should also be weary of the adjustable stock (if not already with the closed bolt version: I haven't read the rest of the thread so I dunno if this problem ever came up). The stock on my SCAR was only secure on the 6th and 1st positions, and a heavy smack on the stock at the 2nd-5th positions will cause it to collaspe on itself. I found this out the hard way when I shot my SCAR on the 3rd position; the stock jerked back and my cheek got pinched between the cheek rest and the adjustable part of the stock....hurts like hellsad.gif

 

EDIT: Got the stock fixed though, bent the metal tab that secures the stock on each position slightly towards one end so that the 'catch' was more secure.

 

The hop up assembly is somewhat of a combination of AEG hop ups and the TM pistol hop ups. The hop up rubber is the TM VSR type and comparing the WE stock rubber with my TM stock rubber; its noticeable that the inner diameter of the hop up is smaller than theTM one, so the WE rubber should have a better air seal to prevent gas 'blow back'. The nub on the WE rubber was also bigger than the TM one, hence the reported overhopping on .25g bbs (from the WE G39 thread).

 

The hop up arm however; is like an AEG hop up arm. There is a cylindrical nub that the hop up arm pushes against the hop rubber to achieve the hop up effect. The nub itself is made of a hard plastic (if I remember correctly) and the dimensions seem to be similar to an AEG hop up nub. I'm hoping that I can fit the firefly flat hop up nub onto my SCAR so that I'll have a bigger hop up surface to achieve a longer and flatter range than the original hop up like the G-Hop here: http://gungineer.matrix.jp/precision/G-HOP/seisaku_gen3/seisaku_gen3.htm which was brought to my attention by AnakChantongue.gif

 

Btw; can anyone list out the airsoft brands of ACOGs, holosights, aimpoints, etc. that can withstand a good amount of recoil? I've got a feeling that the WE SCAR will have the largest recoil a GBBR can get when RATECH starts selling their CNC bolt assembly since it's the GBBR that has the biggest and heaviest bolt assembly so far. I'm really itching to build the 18" SCAR with either an ACOG or the ACM fixed 4x SpecterDR if it can withstand the recoilbiggrin.gif

Edited by intinerious
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Ok so I've only had my scar for about a day now and the only issue I've come across is that the stock when retracted collapses in when a small amount of pressure is added to the butt of the stock, like when shouldering it. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Any help would be great.

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