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Cant find HK on google, could you post a link please?

it seems that the nozzle and the rod are glued. what can be the safest way to unscrew this?   thanks in advance

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?  

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Ok so I've only had my scar for about a day now and the only issue I've come across is that the stock when retracted collapses in when a small amount of pressure is added to the butt of the stock, like when shouldering it. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Any help would be great.

 

Open up the buttstock by removing the retaining pin on the stock (be careful because the pin retainer tends to fly off when you remove it). You should see a screw under the locking mechanism. Unscrew that and take the plastic part of the locking mech out (two plastic pieces and a spring). All you should be left with is the metal rail+tab that locks with the plastic part you just pulled out. Get a pair of pliers and bend the tab towards the right (looking down at the stock). Don't bend too much though; or your locking mech won't allow you to adjust the stock at all. I had to do this by trial and error. Once you bent the tab, replace everything inside the stock and move it to any position from 2 to 5 (your stock should lock at 1 no matter what due to the design of the locking mech itself) and give the stock a good hard smack on the shoulder rest. The stock shouldn't collaspe anymore.

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Open up the buttstock by removing the retaining pin on the stock (be careful because the pin retainer tends to fly off when you remove it). You should see a screw under the locking mechanism. Unscrew that and take the plastic part of the locking mech out (two plastic pieces and a spring). All you should be left with is the metal rail+tab that locks with the plastic part you just pulled out. Get a pair of pliers and bend the tab towards the right (looking down at the stock). Don't bend too much though; or your locking mech won't allow you to adjust the stock at all. I had to do this by trial and error. Once you bent the tab, replace everything inside the stock and move it to any position from 2 to 5 (your stock should lock at 1 no matter what due to the design of the locking mech itself) and give the stock a good hard smack on the shoulder rest. The stock shouldn't collaspe anymore.

 

Thanks I'll try that later tonight

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Hm, took out the floating valve spring today and compared it with the TM stock one.

 

They feel kinda the same, the WE and TM have both the same stiffness from what I can tell, so I was wrong about the TM being softer than the WE.

 

Replaced the spring with the TM one, the ROF was around the same as the WE one.

 

Also, did a coke can test today with coca cola cans. Straight through both sides of the can easily....and through the bottom EASILY. made a nice, 6mm hole at the bottom of the candry.gif. I guess I won't be playing CQB with my SCAR until I buy the NPAS.

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Hi guys, i was about to get a G39, but the SCAR calling is too strong, so i decided to get an open bolt SCAR, problem is, i can't find mags for it anywhere... can someone help me out here? preferably a store in the EU...

 

Also, how is the gun? is it everything i have been dreaming of?

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Hi guys, i was about to get a G39, but the SCAR calling is too strong, so i decided to get an open bolt SCAR, problem is, i can't find mags for it anywhere... can someone help me out here? preferably a store in the EU...

 

Also, how is the gun? is it everything i have been dreaming of?

 

At the moment i don't think you'll find any STANAG open bolt mags anywhere ( i think the only place that has them is the ra-tech store ), you'll need to buy closed bolt mags and then buy & install the open bolt kit made for them.

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At the moment i don't think you'll find any STANAG open bolt mags anywhere ( i think the only place that has them is the ra-tech store ), you'll need to buy closed bolt mags and then buy & install the open bolt kit made for them.

 

HK stores should have the open bolt mag. It might not be listed in their websites so give them an email.

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HK stores should have the open bolt mag. It might not be listed in their websites so give them an email.

 

Yeah like I said ra-tech has them listed but he's from Portugal so it would be very hard for him to order from HK without getting them "stuck" in customs for a couple of months.

 

@DesertFox

 

The new open bolt mags are completely different, I have 6 m14 mags and none of them leak. Unfortunately current STANAG mags are still of the old type, you can get them to be leak free but it takes work.

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Yeah like I said ra-tech has them listed but he's from Portugal so it would be very hard for him to order from HK without getting them "stuck" in customs for a couple of months.

 

The new open bolt mags are completely different, I have 6 m14 mags and none of them leak. Unfortunately current STANAG mags are still of the old type, you can get them to be leak free but it takes work.

 

 

I see. I didn't know that customs would be such a pain for you guys.sad.gif

 

The 4 mags that I have don't leak. I've filled them each by about 10 times already. OOTB they didnt leak either.

 

I think this is a guide to fixing the WE SCAR stock

http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/frogman-myblog/article?mid=9321&prev=9336&next=9254

 

Yes it istongue.gif

 

 

 

 

Btw, the VFC SCAR LB conversion fits my SCAR. I'm current using an RATECH 44cm TB in it and NPAS to control the FPS.

 

The SCAR barrel is black whilst the WE barrel is grey, its noticable when you look at the gas block where the VFC barrel meets the WE barrel.

 

I've found that the mag catch doesn't work properly since for some reason my mags sit lower in the reciever, so it only partially pushes against the hop up. If I press against the bottom of the mags when I rack the bolt it'll lock the bolt positively backwards (when I shake the gun the bolt won't drop). I've tried gluing a piece of card (similar to a credit card) to the bolt catch but the glue never holds for some reason (used locklite super glue gel)sad.gif Looked at the bolt catch as well; doesn't seem to have worn down. I'll be trying to get it fixed in HK shops (I have warranty) but can anyone recommend a glue that'll hold the metal and credit card plastic together even when there is a ton of recoil?

 

Also, I've heard that thte hurricane EOTECHs and G&P ACOGs will hold zero on GBBRs. The hurricane might hold for a real 5.56 firearm and the G&P will hold for the old WE M4s. Is this true? I'm still debating on getting a magnified replica optic since I dont want to spent so much money on it and it becomes useless from the strong recoil of the SCAR.

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I had a feeling that's what you where talking about... Thanks for the links...

 

The order will be made in about a week, after that i guess i can wait another month to play, test and fiddle with it, maybe make love to it before i order the extra mags, i hope by then WE will have the new type mags... if not, its the usual mags and conversion lips...

 

 

 

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Hey,

i am planning to buy my first GBBR, The WE SCar Open bolt is high on my list (originla WE gun not the RA tech upgrade)?

Except for an RA tech npas, what else does this thing need? Is the standard hop up good ? reinforcment parts ? Tight bores ? is it playable on tin the field for a whole day? how are the standard magazines ?

 

grtz!

Edited by Odan.be
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Hey,

i am planning to buy my first GBBR, The WE SCar Open bolt is high on my list (originla WE gun not the RA tech upgrade)?

Except for an RA tech npas, what else does this thing need? Is the standard hop up good ? reinforcment parts ? Tight bores ? is it playable on tin the field for a whole day? how are the standard magazines ?

 

grtz!

 

You don't NEED an NPAS...the gun shoots 1.31J OOTB (per RATECH's video) so the SCAR should be hard-hitting enough to shoot mid-range to long range shots. the NPAS is only needed if you want to play CQB and don't want to ###### off other players when you're shooting 1.31Jtongue.gif

 

The whole gun is skirmishable OOTB. I don't know how cold it'll get in Belgium, but in HK, if I mag dump the gun in 18 degrees celcius, it'll do so without the ROF droping inbetween the 30 rounds in the mag.

 

The hop up is the same as the WE G39 and from what I can tell is that it overhops on .25g bbs. People say that if you use 3.3 or .28g bbs the gunwill shoot laser straight once the hop is properly set up. Personally I switched to a stock TM bucking but I'm buying a firefly soon since I've changed my SCAR to the sniper type with the 18 inch barrel and RATECH 44cm tightbore.

 

Is it playable in the field for a whole day? Sure it is! If you have a ton of magsbiggrin.gif Again each mag only have 30 to 32 rounds so you'll have a huge disadvantage over an opponent with an AEG (think about it...4 GBBR mags = 120 rounds...a mid-cap for AEGS = 120 rounds). Plus the GBBR mags are heavier than mid-caps. In fact, I'll gauge the GBBR mag at around the same weight as a fully loaded hi cap with 300 rounds of .25g bbs.

 

A few things to fix when you first get the SCAR though (not a big deal really). Firstly, the mag catch kinda only locks the bolt half-way, meaning that the metal stub that goes upwards (on the gun, not the mag) when the mag is empty only goes 1/2 way compared to manually locking the bolt yourself. So what that means is that if you shake the gun when the mag is removed and the bolt is locked back VIA THE MAG (not manually locking the bolt back), the bolt will likely go back into battery from the bolt catch slipping. I remedied this by cutting up a damaged credit card, and supergluing it to the bolt catch so that the mag have a thicker material to push against, making the bolt lock better. I'll post some pics up later if people want to see it.

 

Secondly, the hammer still have the same problems as the old WE guns. The pin holing the roller on the hammer frequently slips out, making the hammer unable to be caught correctly by the sear once the gun is fired and the bolt moves the hammer. This means that the hammer will catch the bolt and lock it back permanently until you remove the lower reciever from the gun. Since the bolt is pot-metal (which holds up FINE if the hammer doesnt screw it up!), the bolt will be damaged to the point where the nozzle won't fully pull out of the bolt. I remedied this by applying a thin layer of superglue (use the GEL type, not the liquid type for the bolt catch fix and the hammer fix...I found that the liquid type doesn't sick to the metal very well) using a flat screw on both sides of the roller on the hammer (some people prefer to use red loctite, but I didn't have any at the moment so I used superglue) and leaving the glue to try. The result should provide enough force to lock the roller pin in the hammer and the roller should still spin freely.

 

The stock of the gun is another issue as well. I dont wnat to type it out so take a look in the previous posts since some members as well as myself have detailed the fix for the stock alreadywink.gif

 

If you're an upgrading freak, here are some of the thing you can upgrade (internally for the gun):

 

hop rubbers - TM pistol / VSR type, I'm using the stock TM ones atm, and RATECH will have another one coming included with their I Hop

 

barrels - need to mod VSR barrels by cutting an extra pair of notches on the barrel or use the RATECH ones.

 

hop up nub - AEG type; I'm planning to use the firefly flat hop nub to try to achieve a bigger hop for my SCAR

 

nozzle - RATECH is developing a better air seal nozzle and hop rubber called the I Hop, go youtube it.

 

Bolt and Bolt rail - RATECH is making a CNC'd steel bolt and bolt rail

 

floating valve - you can use an NPAS or other floating valves since its the same as the TM 1911/hi capa types

 

floating valve spring - you can use custom springs since its the same as the TM 1911/hi capa types. (e.g. the NineBall stiffer floating valve spring that comes with their dyna piston head)

 

outer barrel (in conjuction to the inner barrel): you can get the VFC barrel extensions (both 14.5" and 18" variants). Threads on the SCAR are -14mm so the VFC extensions will fit. I'm currently using an RATECH 44cm 6.01mm TB with the sniper variant barrel from VFC. The TB is only 4cm short of the muzzle. Be aware that the VFC barrel is black whilst the WE SCAR is grey..you'll notice the difference if you look at the gas block...but it's not really noticable if you bring it out to skirmish or if people are looking at the whole gun.

 

 

I hope the above info helps!biggrin.gif

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You DO need an NPAS if you're going to play at a proper, safe airsoft skirmish site where all guns are chrono'd before play :rolleyes:

 

Ben.

 

In HK we're allowed to use 1.3J in CQB games. I've heard my friends playing with idiots using 1.7J in CQB games in HK. HK's laws only state that the airsoft replicas must be under 2J.

 

Since Odan's from Belgium, I dunno what their limits are, but I'm assuming its not the same as UK. dry.gif

 

If you read my second sentence to Odan, I mentioned that it's only needed IF you really want to lower the FPS, which some people might not see the need to.

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