Jump to content

Recommended Posts

@Intinerious: Thanks for all the info! Seems like a good skirmishable gun OOTB.

 

In Belgium we can maximum chrono 350 FPS with 0.20 (about 1.2J) before we can play. So I need the NPAS.

Next month i'll decide what GBBR to buy.

WE scar , WE 416 and G&P WOC variants are still on my mind.

Not able to find a lot of info on the WE 416 variant.

 

 

Greetings

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 667
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Cant find HK on google, could you post a link please?

it seems that the nozzle and the rod are glued. what can be the safest way to unscrew this?   thanks in advance

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?  

Posted Images

@Intinerious: Thanks for all the info! Seems like a good skirmishable gun OOTB.

 

In Belgium we can maximum chrono 350 FPS with 0.20 (about 1.2J) before we can play. So I need the NPAS.

Next month i'll decide what GBBR to buy.

WE scar , WE 416 and G&P WOC variants are still on my mind.

Not able to find a lot of info on the WE 416 variant.

 

 

Greetings

 

 

 

 

The nozzle's a pain to reassemble btw; so you better locktite (blue) your NPAS once you set it up in case it loses its settings wink.gif

 

Since you're running an NPAS, if you want to change to a tightbore and a 14.5" SCAR, your recoil power will increase if you keep the same FPS coming out of the gun compared to a stock 10" SCAR, reason being that you'll have to set your NPAS to a higher setting to keep 1.2J and thus more gas will be rediverted to push the bolt backwards. I'm pretty sure my ROF on my 18" SCAR increased slightly after I set the NPAS to shoot lower than the stock SCAR (running a 44cm long tightbore). With the coming RATECH upgrades the gas efficiency should be even higher.

 

The SCAR bolt has a very stupid design IMO for gas efficiency. If you've handled a 1911 with a Nineball Dyna piston head you'll see that the bolt on the SCAR is the 'reverse' of the 1911. The gas is actually used to 'fill' the chamber created by the bolt and the nozzle and the o-ring at the back of the nozzle is meant to expand like the NineBall dyna piston head (or AEG ported piston heads) to create a better seal for the chamber. The problem is, since the design is reversed, the velocity of the gas entering the ported holes to expand the o-rings are significantly slower than the 1911 design where the gas goes directly towards the ported holes of the dyna piston head. Then again the velocity of the gas used to expand the o-ring on the SCAR might be enough to create a good air seal but still; they should've stuck to the 1911 blow back unit design.

 

Also because of WE's design of the bolt, the nozzle is hard to reassemble because you need to align the nozzle return spring to the little slot at the back for the bolt pin to hold it down (so your nozzle won't fly out of your bolt!). I took my gun to Armed Forces Company to fix it (they give out a 1 year warranty for free parts for any HK peeps that might read this post) and the tech took 15 mins to reassemble the parts while swearing a LOT during the process. biggrin.gif

 

 

btw; does anyone know of any magnified replica optics in airsoft that can take up recoil and doesn't have a crappy field of vision? I was tempted to get a G&P ACOG but I've read somewhere that the ACM ones are even better than the G&P onesohmy.gif I've also read through a lot of reviews that said the FOV of the ACOG is ######...people had to put their goggles right up to the ACOG to aim. This is gonna suck with the SCAR since you'll get a huge black eye (or with goggles; a redish goggle outline pressed nicely to your face) after aiming and firing full auto tongue.gif. I've heard that the new Marui short dot scope is good but I haven't tried it out myself.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The ACM ones aren't better, but there are rumours that they are G&P OEM... So exactly the same.

 

I had an ACM 4x32 with trades, and it was rock solid. The only thing is, as you've said, they don't have very good eye-relief. The recoil won't give you a black eye though (used it on my WE M16A3 for ages).

 

I use a G&P AimPoint with my SCAR, and it has held up with no problems whatsoever.

 

If you want a 4x32, why not look at those ACM Spectre DR things as well?

 

Ben.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The ACM ones aren't better, but there are rumours that they are G&P OEM... So exactly the same.

 

I had an ACM 4x32 with trades, and it was rock solid. The only thing is, as you've said, they don't have very good eye-relief. The recoil won't give you a black eye though (used it on my WE M16A3 for ages).

 

I use a G&P AimPoint with my SCAR, and it has held up with no problems whatsoever.

 

If you want a 4x32, why not look at those ACM Spectre DR things as well?

 

Ben.

 

 

If the ACM ones are G&P OEMs, then G&P ACOGs are a huge ripoffsad.gif They don't even have trades whereas the ACM ones dodry.gif

 

As for the recoil; I suppose you haven't seen this have youtongue.gif:

 

 

I'm planning to install a CNC bolt in the near future and if I can source out cheap CO2 caplets in bulk I'll get myself a bunch of CO@ mags too. Watch the vid and see the recoil with red gas. Now imagine the recoil with CO2biggrin.gif

 

I had a bad experience with G&P aimpoints....Mine lost the capability to calibrate and the wiring got too loose after a game with it...and I wasn't even playing roughsad.gif

 

I was gonna mention the 1-4x specterDR in my last post...and I really, really want to use it, BUT the thing is it costs more than the SCAR itself and it's ACM. I don't want it to lose zero or have any other issues because off the recoil of the SCARsad.gif Got a friend who knows people working in ehobby and redwolf and he helped me ask about the specter. Havent' got a reply yet, but will update you guys when I do tongue.gif

 

Or you can get a Red dot and a red dot magnifier. The eye relief is better with that.

 

 

You mean real steel?tongue.gif I've heard that the aimpoint replica magnifiers have even crappier eye relief than the ACOGswink.gif

 

I've had to use real steel optics on my SCAR. All the ACM clones lost zero. I now have real deal aimpoint ML2.

 

My Element PEQ box fell apart bit by bit on the SCAR- but I'm not buying a real steel one of those though!

 

Did you use replica ACM aimpoints or ACOGs?

 

I was also planning to add a PRO&T PEQ/15 with the really strong green laser to the SCAR....but if your element PEQ box fell apart....

 

As I understand it, the Element PEQ/16 is really well built. Did you managed to find a way to secure your PEQ back onto the SCAR?

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

You mean real steel?tongue.gif I've heard that the aimpoint replica magnifiers have even crappier eye relief than the ACOGswink.gif

 

 

 

No, the airsoft ones. The ones I handled were quite ok, though I couldn't really justify buying one. The local shop had one for about 90 dollars, a bit expensive I reckon.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone looking for a PEQ15 and who doesn't want to pay the exorbitant VFC prices might do well to look at the BetaProject version.

 

I got mine from eHobbyAsia. So cheap, with working laser (though I just use it for show). Holds up to recoil just fine.

 

Ben.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the ACM ones are G&P OEMs, then G&P ACOGs are a huge ripoffsad.gif They don't even have trades whereas the ACM ones dodry.gif

 

As for the recoil; I suppose you haven't seen this have youtongue.gif:

 

 

I'm planning to install a CNC bolt in the near future and if I can source out cheap CO2 caplets in bulk I'll get myself a bunch of CO@ mags too. Watch the vid and see the recoil with red gas. Now imagine the recoil with CO2biggrin.gif

 

I had a bad experience with G&P aimpoints....Mine lost the capability to calibrate and the wiring got too loose after a game with it...and I wasn't even playing roughsad.gif

 

I was gonna mention the 1-4x specterDR in my last post...and I really, really want to use it, BUT the thing is it costs more than the SCAR itself and it's ACM. I don't want it to lose zero or have any other issues because off the recoil of the SCARsad.gif Got a friend who knows people working in ehobby and redwolf and he helped me ask about the specter. Havent' got a reply yet, but will update you guys when I do tongue.gif

 

 

 

 

You mean real steel?tongue.gif I've heard that the aimpoint replica magnifiers have even crappier eye relief than the ACOGswink.gif

 

 

 

Did you use replica ACM aimpoints or ACOGs?

 

I was also planning to add a PRO&T PEQ/15 with the really strong green laser to the SCAR....but if your element PEQ box fell apart....

 

As I understand it, the Element PEQ/16 is really well built. Did you managed to find a way to secure your PEQ back onto the SCAR?

 

 

If you are planning to go for the steel bolt, i suggest you not to use replica.

 

I had a ACM T-1, good quality, worked on we m4, but my scar had killed it.

 

I read from TW forum the the new specter DR replica, in terms of optical quality, is worse than the old one, and it is also not very adjustable.

 

I recently bought a RS ML-2, really expensive, but really good quality.

 

If you do not have the budget, I suggest you to look for a Leapers CQB scope, 1-4x great quality and eye relief, which costs only around 700-800HKD/ 100USD, except that it's kind of hevay, comparing with the aimpoint acog replicas.

Link to post
Share on other sites

WOW the recoil on the Steel bolt is huge!!!

is that even good for the other internals ? IS there any replica optic that can withstand that recoil ?

 

 

I'm asking the same question as you aretongue.gif As for the internals, RATECH is making a steel part 27 (the metal plate that locks the buttstock in) so it should hold upwink.gif

 

No, the airsoft ones. The ones I handled were quite ok, though I couldn't really justify buying one. The local shop had one for about 90 dollars, a bit expensive I reckon.

 

 

I saw the price on one of those magnifiers as well...was planning on getting one for my T1 micro but like you said, the price is prohibitivesad.gif Never really looked through one however...

 

Anyone looking for a PEQ15 and who doesn't want to pay the exorbitant VFC prices might do well to look at the BetaProject version.

 

I got mine from eHobbyAsia. So cheap, with working laser (though I just use it for show). Holds up to recoil just fine.

 

Ben.

 

 

My friend bought a VFC PEQ for his AEG HK416 when the Element PEQ16 set came out. The idiot didn't take my advice and got himself a VFC...laughed my *albatross* off when he bought the element PEQ set a few weeks later biggrin.gif The VFC light doesn't flood, so the beam is tight but WEAK compared with the element one, and the laser is....okay, I guess. The metal screw used on the PEQ hinge to hold it to the rails are ###### though..my friend broke both of the screws (should've been a tensile failure as well!ohmy.gif) and hes got the broken screw bits rattling inside his PEQbiggrin.gif

 

The BetaProject version only have a laser right? I wanted the PRO&T version because it comes with a light as well. The green laser on the PRO&T is suprisingly strong if I remember correctly so for outdoor games I can use it to point at things (just need to be careful not to blind someone). But the main use of the PEQ will be the light. Apparently it floods up a whole room and doesnt have enough focus to light up anything long range, which is a con for some people but its a pro for me since the PEQ light will be my CQB light. I'm planning to get the element surefire weaponlight replicas for the long range illumination.tongue.gif

 

If you are planning to go for the steel bolt, i suggest you not to use replica.

 

I had a ACM T-1, good quality, worked on we m4, but my scar had killed it.

 

I read from TW forum the the new specter DR replica, in terms of optical quality, is worse than the old one, and it is also not very adjustable.

 

I recently bought a RS ML-2, really expensive, but really good quality.

 

If you do not have the budget, I suggest you to look for a Leapers CQB scope, 1-4x great quality and eye relief, which costs only around 700-800HKD/ 100USD, except that it's kind of hevay, comparing with the aimpoint acog replicas.

 

Hm.. I've used a DYTAC T1 Micro on my SCAR and mag dumping 30 rounds (with 4 mags) didn't kill it. The red dot flickered ever so slightly when I mag dumped but the green dot worked fine the whole time. Of course, not sure whether I'll try it with the steel bolt when it comes out...no point in damaging a perfectly working optic that works wonder with an AEGwink.gif

 

There's a new post on the 1-4x specterDR on arnies (http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=194831&st=20). eye relief is apparently 'nice' and the replica only have a few flaws that'll probably put purists off. The mount was reported to wobble slightly on real spec rails but I suppose it's shimmable. I've also got a reply from my friend who helped me ask some guys that work at ehobby, and they said that the specter should hold zero because the adjustment dials are 'external huge mofo chunks of metal instead of internal adjustment screws'.biggrin.gif

 

The guy also said that he knows someone that used an ACM ACOG on an AR15 in the phillipines and it held zero as well.

 

You're from HK right? Where'd you get the Leapers scope? I didn't think real steel stuff could be that cheap. the G&P ACOG I saw at Tokyo Model Company was 750 so if a real scope is around the same price I'll def. drop all the replica options and go with the real stuff wink.gif How's the eye relief on the Leapers btw (if you have one)?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

 

I've mentioned in a few posts back that the mag catch was a bit low to positively lock the bolt in place after the last shot. I realised what the problem is. the mag release (on the M4's side) got a bit loose (grub screw). needless to say I didn't realise it until the mag release button popped out of the gun when I inserted a fresh mag during a dry-fire sessionblink.gif

 

Fixed it by securing the button back on the catch. It locks more positively now, but still not to my satisfaction (shaking the gun violently after the catch locks back DUE to the mag being empty will drop the bolt back into battery). Remember I said I used a piece of credit card plastic to make the bolt lock more positively before? After securing the mag catch the credit card plastic was too thick to allow a smooth bolt movement (the top of the catch was grinding against the bolt). So what I did was took some cardboard material off the aftermarket parts packaging that I had around, cut out a shape and superglued it to the bolt where the mag pushes against it for the bolt lock. It works much better now since the bolt will not drop after shaking the gun violently (as if I had manually locked the bolt back).

 

will take a picture later if anyone wants it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a stupid problem yesterday after upgrading a SCAR to OB, the gun worked perfectly with gas mags, but lacked power with a CO2 mag, slow cycling, weak BB, and just running like ######, gas mag back in and it works perfect, and the CO2 mag worked fine in other guns, was thinking a fubar floating valve in the piston, but I just don't know.

Edited by jkpics
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a stupid problem yesterday after upgrading a SCAR to OB, the gun worked perfectly with gas mags, but lacked power with a CO2 mag, slow cycling, weak BB, and just running like ######, gas mag back in and it works perfect, and the CO2 mag worked fine in other guns, was thinking a fubar floating valve in the piston, but I just don't know.

 

Are you using the new trigger group ? Have you checked if the new hammer spring is as strong as the old one ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

my open bolt scar's been jamming the bolt backwards and damaging the bottom of the bolt and the plastic nozzle. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening?

The Bolt travel to far back. After that the hammer will bent the edge of the blowback housing to the plastic nozzle. When the bolt travels more back, the hammer will damage the nozzle to and the rifle get jammed...

This can happen after modding the backside of the guide rod and shorten the plastic buffer. To soft material at the backside buffer will be compressed to much by blowback.

Edited by DuMichAuch
Link to post
Share on other sites

See if your bolt rails in the upper resiver are lose.

 

Tried that...I thought it was because of the loose bolt too, since the bolt would've dipped and catch on the hammer ><; Really tightened it down afterwards but the bolt still jammed.

 

The Bolt travel to far back. After that the hammer will bent the edge of the blowback housing to the plastic nozzle. When the bolt travels more back, the hammer will damage the nozzle to and the rifle get jammed...

This can happen after modding the backside of the guide rod and shorten the plastic buffer. To soft material at the backside buffer will be compressed to much by blowback.

 

 

ahh so this is the issue. I initially thought of this too. I've got the WE SCAR open bolt (not the kit) so there's a thick piece of rubber at the back of the recoil rod. I guessed the heavy recoil compressed it too much (not noticable by eye however) that it made the bolt go too far back. I've shimmed between the rubber bubber and the guide rod stop with 2 pieces of cardboard but I'm not sure whether that'll hold up in the long run... Any ideas how to permanently fix the jamming issue?

 

I didn't mod the backside of the guide rod or shorten the plastic buffer (where the bolt hits). I doubt the plastic buffer would've sheared off bits of material and thus shortening it...so I'm guessing its the rubber buffer at the back of the guide rod.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has been having a few problems recently.

 

Took it out on Sunday, and it would jam every 3-4 shots, usually venting all the gas.

 

Not sure why, but it has been doing this ever since I installed the NPAS.

 

Either the NPAS o-ring is too big, and is jamming in the brass cylinder, or it's something to do with the bolt assembly.

 

The bolt sticks about 2" short of returning to full battery.

 

Any ideas?

 

Ben.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Broke a stock finally >.<

 

This saddens me, I have taken my spare and put it on, added a few rubber rings and a small spring to stall the recoil a little shirt, but next plan is to also file down the buffer springy majiggy and add some foam and rubbe inside to absorb some of the recoil.

 

This is all in a closed bolt converted to open bolt.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Broke a stock finally >.<

 

This saddens me, I have taken my spare and put it on, added a few rubber rings and a small spring to stall the recoil a little shirt, but next plan is to also file down the buffer springy majiggy and add some foam and rubbe inside to absorb some of the recoil.

 

This is all in a closed bolt converted to open bolt.

 

Can you source a new recoil rod with the rubber buffer at the back? Its the one that comes with the open bolt SCAR (not the kit). It should increase the life of part 066 more than the recoil rod that comes with the kit, which doesn't have the buffer.

 

Speaking of which, I added 3 credit card pieces between the buffer and the recoil rod back plate on mine with holes punch out to accommodate the nubs on the buffer itself to prevent the bolt from moving too far back and catching on the hammer. So far its holding up very well.

 

For the bolt catch, I've shimmed it with a piece of plastic that came from my G&P M160 motor so the bolt catch functions more 'positively'. The thickness of the plastic itself is just enough to lock the bolt back yet not impede the movement of the bolt when the gun is being fired. I've noted that anything as thick as a credit card piece for the bolt catch shim will impede the bolt's movement as the bolt catch will sit just high enough to catch against the bolt during full auto fire..so you'll notice the full auto ROF dropping down to around 16 rps.

 

 

I'd post pics up, but the attachments thing won't let me do it because the pictures are too big. Anyone else got a solution other than downsizing my pics?

 

 

The issue I have with the gun right now is if you push against the mag when the gun is being fired, the bolt catch will lock the bolt back even if there are still bbs left in the gun. Probably shimming the mag catch will work too, but I haven't had the time to do so. I'll see if I can fix it sometime later and I'll post the results up for you guys.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.