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Cant find HK on google, could you post a link please?

it seems that the nozzle and the rod are glued. what can be the safest way to unscrew this?   thanks in advance

Is the buffer you speak anything like this ?  

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I have just converted to Open Bolt and found the FPS to be low (approx 290) and the blowkback sluggish after converting my CO2 mags.

 

I thought it was the weapon itself but today I received two off-the-shelf Open bolt mags and now I need an NPAS! The block action is very lively/ hard and FPS a little on the high side.

 

What could be wrong with my CO2 mags that I've converted??? I'm at a bit of a loss!

Could the old problem of Scars needing a o-ring under the gas bucking to raise it for a better seal.

 

OK. I have to own up.

 

It was me being a bit of a numpty :nosleep: I did not install the mag lips on properly. They are such a tight fit that I assumed the incorrect install position meaning that there was no proper seal between mag and mag lip resulting in poor fps, poor gas consumption and rubbish blowback.

 

I have now re-seated the mag lips on all my mags and very much need to reduce fps using the NPAS. Happy trigger :)

 

The blowback action and noise is back to awesome!

Edited by bbstriker
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I have just converted to Open Bolt and found the FPS to be low (approx 290) and the blowkback sluggish after converting my CO2 mags.

 

I thought it was the weapon itself but today I received two off-the-shelf Open bolt mags and now I need an NPAS! The block action is very lively/ hard and FPS a little on the high side.

 

What could be wrong with my CO2 mags that I've converted??? I'm at a bit of a loss!

 

Hm. I've never used the CO2 mags myself but here's my thoughts (those who are more educated than me please correct me if needed):

 

1. The CO2 pressure is too high for the open bolt hammer spring. Your valve isn't opened up all the way so the blowback is sluggish as a result. However, once you've emptied enough CO2 the pressure should decrease and you should find your latter shots being as nice as the green gas mags.

 

2. You've installed the open bolt lips on the CO2 mags incorrectly. Try checking it against the new green gas mags. Also check if they have dimensional differences.

 

EDIT: Oops. Didnt see the thread updated before I posted :P

Edited by intinerious
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

From the SCAR picture thread it was noticed that the WE SCAR irons are taller than your normal AR15 sights.

 

Today, I stuck my newly acquired clone T1 Micro with the LaRue LT660 mount onto my SCAR (the dot wasn't zeroed btw):

 

20120810_181055.jpg

20120810_181107.jpg

20120810_181126.jpg

 

What I noticed was that the SCAR's sights absolute co-witnessed with the T1 on the LT660 mount.

 

The LT660 mount is meant to be a lower 1/3 co-witness with the AR15 irons, and for a RS SCAR I've read that the sights sit lower, therefore an absolute co-witnessed optic would be 1/3 lower co-witnessed with the SCAR's irons. This means that the WE SCAR irons are way too high compared to the RS. Thought I'd post this to let you guys know in case you're planning to zero your irons and your unmagnified optic at the same time :P

Edited by intinerious
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Need a bit of advice:

 

I can get a used, non-working closed-bolt SCAR for 150e, Is it worthwhile getting it and a open-bolt kit? It'll end up costing 200e aprox. Would I need to upgrade anything else to get it Skirmishable? (apart from mags obviously).

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Since you're essentially taking out all the important CB bits and putting in the OB ones, it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure to put a shock buffer in the hinge plate so it doesn't crack. If you can, change out the stock hop-up rubber with aftermarket ones. That's it - your gun should be GTG.

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Since you're essentially taking out all the important CB bits and putting in the OB ones, it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure to put a shock buffer in the hinge plate so it doesn't crack. If you can, change out the stock hop-up rubber with aftermarket ones. That's it - your gun should be GTG.

 

Awesome, thanks for the reply.

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My friend's just bought one of these, it appears to be a fantastic gun, really nicely made and fires with a hard kick and a loud report. Quick question: I know the SCAR shares its trigger mechanism with the M4 so you can't put it on safe unless it's cocked. But it would also appear that you can't put it an automatic either, and if you set it to auto, drop the hammer then switch to semi you can't switch back to auto. Is this normal?

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Since you're essentially taking out all the important CB bits and putting in the OB ones, it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure to put a shock buffer in the hinge plate so it doesn't crack. If you can, change out the stock hop-up rubber with aftermarket ones. That's it - your gun should be GTG.

 

Indeed, that's basically what I did with mine, was originally a CB SCAR without the trigger assembly, and completed it with the OB conversion kit, the latest kits have a big rubber shock buffer standard, so far its running good with the exception of a double feed that caused me a broken nozzle tip, but overall its an awesome gun...

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I'm new to this SCAR business, just got one yesterday and installed all the RaTech goodies. Is there a stronger return spring out there somewhere one can get to swap out the stock one? I'm finding the steel bolt is sluggish. Anyone have similar results? Am I missing something? .

 

Did you install the RATECH trigger set? Turok_T on ASC found that the RATECH hammers seat too high when they're cocked. I've noticed the same thing too with my set and comparing it with the stock hammer the RATECH sits 1mm too high. Might not sound like a lot but it prevented me from emptying 30 rounds out of my gen2 mags with my GunsModify steel bolt.

 

I swapped just the hammer out with a TSC hammer which, when compared to the stock WE hammer, seem to be of the same dimension. My SCAR works fine now as a result.

 

If you've bought the whole RATECH trigger set your best bet to fix the gun is to ditch the RATECH hammer like what I did, and install the TSC one which can be bought at Ehobby (don't install the hammer spring that comes with it...there's no point and the TSC hammer spring that comes with it is stronger than the stock spring, which it doesn't need to be). That is the cheapest way and the one with the lowest risk of fixing your sluggish bolt issue. When you get the TSC hammer you'll also need to add loctite to the roller pin as they come loose out of the box. Just add a bit to the pin, shove it back into the hammer with the roller and wipe off the excess; you don't want the roller to get stuck.

 

Also from what I've heard the RATECH bolt is WAY too heavy and really kills the gas efficiency of the gun. You should've went with the GunsModify bolt assembly; it looks better (as they do the fake bolt pin engraving that RATECH left out) and it's also lighter than the RATECH one too.

 

If that still doesn't get your bolt to cycle to the speed that you want, you can try upgrading your mags with the Action high flow valves. They raise the fps quite a bit (not what I wanted in the first place but whatever, easier to downgrade fps later rather than up it) and your bolt will cycle faster (recoil feels sharper too) as a result. You can get them in WGC or Ehobby.

Edited by intinerious
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Missed my window to edit^

 

Anyway, here are pics.

 

RATECH trigger set with RATECH hammer:

20121119_143959.jpg

 

RATECH trigger set with stock WE hammer (without roller):

20121119_144324.jpg

 

There's at least 1mm height difference even though I took the roller away from the WE hammer. The TSC hammer:

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/t-s-c-hardened-cast-steel-hammer-for-we-m4-scar-gbb.html

 

Have exactly the same dimensions as the stock WE trigger, and works fine even when paired up with the RATECH trigger and sear disconnector.

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Thanks for the help. I ended up changing out the slide(?) of the bolt back to the WE one and the cycling seems fine now. I do have the RATech trigger set so if I do notice some problems with it's function I'll swap out the hammer. It seems fine right now though. I might as well get one ordered anyway.

 

Thanks.

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  • 3 months later...

I just got the SCAR-L CQC and having few issues with it:

 

Sometimes the gun double or tripple feeds bb´s, will try if adjusting the hop fixes it .

 

Another and bigger issue I am having with this is that on semi  after firing you must release finger completely off the trigger, until that is done the hammer wont set for the next round.  This is annoying cause the hammer/trigger makes this really cheap "thunksproingclak" sound when the trigger is released.

 

Looking at the hammer it has 3 steps, semi, auto and something in between. that movement  from "between" and semi movement makes that sound and thinking if there is something wrong with the mech. or is this just what these things are suppose to be like?

 

Otherwise this feels really nice so hoping I can fix these things somehow.

 

-Pate

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Fixed the video.

 

Also I must admit that I know very little of assault rifles, airsoft or real. I just looked this video and the real steel one does the same (trigger release sound) thing.

 

 

 

Adjusted the hop up and no double feeds anymore.

 

 

So my gun is ok, and I learned something new.

 

Also ordered new sight and front grip for it, will post pics of them on the gun when they arrive

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

-Pate

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Just cleaned the gun after ~4mags and noticed some wear in places I did not think would wear.  I had cleaned it when I first got the gun and noticed some scuff marks on these parts but now it looks worse.

 

The parts are:

 

-Upper receiver bolt release area is scratched and slightly dented .

-On the bolt there is also quite a lot of wear on the places that the bolt release catch hits.

 

sorry about the crappy pics, my better cam is awal. (some of the white seen on pics is grease)

 

anybody noticed this on their guns?  -thinking that the bolt catch/release is much stronger material then the upper receiver or bolt so it wears them.

 

Greased the bolt and catch  with lithium grease instead of silicone, hoping it helps.

 

-Pate

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post-7785-0-55399100-1363973727_thumb.jpg

Edited by bigshow
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