JG - Jing Gong M4 GBB Rifle

[Mental Medic]

Well the spring on the hammer is too weak. All you need to do is get a dirt cheap 120% hammer spring.

 

I'd rahter have to replace a hammer spring then a whole loading nozzle right away.

 

And all we can do until someone confirms everything is speculate. Apparently some people have received theirs but do not want to post up so we'll SPECULATE all we want.

 

I don't see why you have to get all mad about it. You should get more mad at the people that don't want to post up information about the gun. It's not like it came out yesterday......

 

Whether someone believes the speculation then that's their choice.

 

Frankly, I wish I hadn't bought my AGM. I would of bought the JG instead.

 

JG has a lighter mag too.

 

-Luis

 

Hehe, buyer's remorse. But you have a point. Someone should inform us as to the durability of the air nozzle relative to the AGM variant.

 

snorkelman: You can't blame us for being curious. But if you're so intent on finding the facts, why don't you buy the $130 gun and quell the speculation? Because I'm dying to know.

[Ion]

I'll hold off on the upgrades for now.

My plans for the JG are

AGM KAC/Marine trades lower receiver

PDI 6.01mm or 6.05 509mm barrel

the WA compatible SPR Mod.0 front end and upper reciever.

 

But for now to get rid of some speculation I'll keep it stock and see how she lasts.

 

Man, I can't get over how excited I am, and its a clone too. lol.

[snorkelman]

Well the spring on the hammer is too weak. All you need to do is get a dirt cheap 120% hammer spring.

 

I'd rahter have to replace a hammer spring then a whole loading nozzle right away.

 

And all we can do until someone confirms everything is speculate. Apparently some people have received theirs but do not want to post up so we'll SPECULATE all we want.

 

I don't see why you have to get all mad about it. You should get more mad at the people that don't want to post up information about the gun. It's not like it came out yesterday......

 

Whether someone believes the speculation then that's their choice.

 

Frankly, I wish I hadn't bought my AGM. I would of bought the JG instead.

 

JG has a lighter mag too.

 

-Luis

 

its a review thread the abscence of any hard info doesnt mean you can just turn it into one full of your guesses. Particularly when you chuck them around like definitive FACTS. If you do then dont be surprised when someone takes you to task over it

 

Try using if and maybe a bit more. Otherwise you are going to get folks running off on potential wild goose chases which does them no favours

 

Wether the hammer spring is weak or not you CANNOT deduce from the video posted that shows the gun fail to fire. If someone accepts your guess postulated as FACT what do you suppose their first purchase will be for their new JG? Yep a hammer spring

 

1 Could just as easily be a jammed BB (maybe that nice brass nozzle is mis dimensioned versus the BB pickup) that fails to allow the bolt carrier to fully return to battery. If its not returned to battery then when the hammer falls the hammer is going to ground out against rear of the bolt carrier, cant travel fully forwards and strike the firing pin (either at all or with any sort of force).

 

2 could be a dodgy hammer lockgun fires in auto and hammer follows the bolt back to battery - never gets a chance to wait and release its spring tension in one go as the mass of the moving carrier acts as a damper.

 

thats just two to start with that will display identical 'on video symptoms' that will clear using same 'rack the bolt carrier again' procedure and don't have anything whatsoever with a 'weak hammer spring' as the reason for the fail to fire. To tell any of them apart and establish the root cause you'ld need to either get hands on with the gun or have a full description of the relative position of the components at time of the fail to fire to come up with any realistic diagnosis of which one it actually is.

 

the nozzle assemblies use of a brass nozzle might be an improvement it might not - particularly as the biggest weak point isnt the nozzle itself but the rear of the nozzle tube and piston face of the bolt. A brass nozzle does nothing to addres either of those. A brass nozzle thats been skimped on is too thin too poor a grade of brass or has every chance of chewing up as quickly if not faster than an injection moulded plastic component.

 

 

[Luis21]

its a review thread the abscence of any hard info doesnt mean you can just turn it into one full of your guesses. Particularly when you chuck them around like definitive FACTS. If you do then dont be surprised when someone takes you to task over it

 

Try using if and maybe a bit more. Otherwise you are going to get folks running off on potential wild goose chases which does them no favours

 

Wether the hammer spring is weak or not you CANNOT deduce from the video posted that shows the gun fail to fire. If someone accepts your guess postulated as FACT what do you suppose their first purchase will be for their new JG? Yep a hammer spring

 

1 Could just as easily be a jammed BB (maybe that nice brass nozzle is mis dimensioned versus the BB pickup) that fails to allow the bolt carrier to fully return to battery. If its not returned to battery then when the hammer falls the hammer is going to ground out against rear of the bolt carrier, cant travel fully forwards and strike the firing pin (either at all or with any sort of force).

 

2 could be a dodgy hammer lockgun fires in auto and hammer follows the bolt back to battery - never gets a chance to wait and release its spring tension in one go as the mass of the moving carrier acts as a damper.

 

thats just two to start with that will display identical 'on video symptoms' that will clear using same 'rack the bolt carrier again' procedure and don't have anything whatsoever with a 'weak hammer spring' as the reason for the fail to fire. To tell any of them apart and establish the root cause you'ld need to either get hands on with the gun or have a full description of the relative position of the components at time of the fail to fire to come up with any realistic diagnosis of which one it actually is.

 

the nozzle assemblies use of a brass nozzle might be an improvement it might not - particularly as the biggest weak point isnt the nozzle itself but the rear of the nozzle tube and piston face of the bolt. A brass nozzle does nothing to addres either of those. A brass nozzle thats been skimped on is too thin too poor a grade of brass or has every chance of chewing up as quickly if not faster than an injection moulded plastic component.

 

 

Yeah, it could be one of those two problems. MAYBE, but it's all speculation.

 

And the reason that I don't want to creat a JG M4 GBBR SPECULATION THREAD is because people will start flaming about me creating another thread when the JG thread is present in the gas section.

 

I really don't want to start a fuzz over this, it's pointless. But I will start using ifs and maybes so that I don't throw out false info.

 

Let's all be happy since airsoft is all about fun.

 

Cheers!

 

-Luis

[Deltacor]

i dont want to make a new topic so i want to ask if any metal bodies fit the JG GBB

[Luis21]

i dont want to make a new topic so i want to ask if any metal bodies fit the JG GBB

 

Well there are G&P, Inokatsu, KA, Prime, and AGM metal bodies for sale.

 

Everything up there except the AGM is supposed to be WA compatible so they should fit the barrel nut and stock tube in theory.

 

If you want to use the AGM metal receiver(upper and lower) then you'll have to use the AGM stock tube(since the stock tube thread is proprietary) and an AEG barrel nut.

 

-Luis

 

[Speed=]

do us a favour until you've actually got one quit speculating on wether the gun is nice or not - wether its misfiring because the hammer spring is too weak, wether the thick plastic body is strong enough or the brass nozzle is nice arent things you can assess from photos or a short youtube video where the gun needs its bolt racked.

 

This is meant to be a review thread, not your guess as to wether something is better or worse based on a fleeting impression. Its not helpful and its going to be potentially confusing for a casual reader who takes that as being something you've concluded from actual hands on experience with the part.

 

For all we know the nice brass nozzle could just as easily be too thin, or badly fixed into the plastic nozzle and thus utterly *suitcase*. As you dont have one to lay hands on compare and test you dont know.

 

So lets wait till someone buys one and puts some hands on rounds thru it and updates their results

 

(more to the point wether it is nicer or not its going to be little consolation if the rear of the nozzle tube its fitted in self destructs just as quickly as most of the other plastic nozzle tubes do...)

 

The amount of speculation guesswork and plain wrong info on these gas in mag guns is already at a stage where its a nightmare to pick hard info out from the noise. Lets not add more to it.

 

Bashing players who've had experience with very similar products is 1000 times worse. I'd trust his opinion considering he's had his hands in several GBB guns. So his experience and opinions based off what he's seen is VERY helpful so maybe you should keep your ignorant opinions to yourself.

[camotyger]

I have to say, even if this gun turns out to be *suitcase*, Im glad to so an influx of GGBR designs out there. I prefer gas over electric but that preference limits my arsenal somewhat outside of guns that range between several hundred dollars.

[gerrysnaps]

Just picked one up myself! Few things I've noted briefly:

 

- AGM and JG mags load differently apparently, according to my dealer. AGM mags seem to be loaded from the side while JG gets loaded from the top. Can anyone else confirm this?

- Not having any AGMs in stock at the time the dealer wasn't able to test compatibility with AGM spare mags.

- My JG shot between 419 to 440FPS, but has twice in two mags full failed to cycle properly in auto. Something about it seems to make it prone to this. I didn't note any problems working in Semi. I plan to shoot only in Semi anyway.

- The BB loader that came with the gun wasn't working out of the box, so my dealer repaired it on the spot. It comes with an adaptor to facilitate loading.

- Initially I got some misinformation that we already had metal bodied JG's but mine and all the stock my dealer got was plastic bodied.

- At the shop, we tested the delta ring and front set to see if you could drop in a different handguard/RIS system meant for AEGs. My dealer asked me to keep mum about this until they got out with this info themselves, but they've already done that yesterday so I can confirm: the MOE handguards dropped in like a charm. Going to test out an old A&K M4 RIS, don't see visually why this won't work. This is significant because the AGMs I am told have a front collar that doesn't go well at all with the AEG handguards.

- The fire selector was really stiff, stiffer than I remember when operating the AGM.

- The manual looked like a copy of the WA M4 CQBR styled gun. Basing this on the fact that all the pics seem to be of the first release of the WA M4 Magna GBBRs.

 

Naturally my first purchase was the anti-rotation lugs. I'd like to see if a UBR will drop in though I plan to pick up a metal receiver to replace the plastic set when I install it, but that won't be for maybe another month or so.

[Luis21]

Just picked one up myself! Few things I've noted briefly:

 

- AGM and JG mags load differently apparently, according to my dealer. AGM mags seem to be loaded from the side while JG gets loaded from the top. Can anyone else confirm this?

- Not having any AGMs in stock at the time the dealer wasn't able to test compatibility with AGM spare mags.

 

Very good info.

 

However the AGM magazines load through the TOP. The adapter included allows them to.

 

AGM mags work in the JG. It's been done in youtube videos.

 

Photos of the hop-up and the thickness of the receiver would be appreciated.

 

-Luis

 

[Mental Medic]

Yes, show pics of the upper and lower receiver thickness!

[snorkelman]

re the fails to fire in auto what are ther symptoms - eg are you firing a burst, it stops firing and trigger isnt responsive untill you intervene in some way or another (like racking the bolt carrier manually with charging handle)? If so next few times it gets in that state let us know the following

 

 

without racking the bolt carrier

 

switch to semi (do you hear a slight clunk?)

 

switch to safe, can it be engaged?

 

switch to semi again - can it fire?

 

if answer is no still cant fire then

 

pull the mag out - is the firing pin striker sitting forwards in fired position or rearwards in its rest position

 

lmk how you get on

[Frakk2k]

My gun is at the local postoffice, but I can't get it until monday :/

 

I'll do some comparison pictures of thickness, reciver height and whatnot then

[Kreator]

Anyone know if there is a metal-bodied version coming up?

[Frontiers]

Anyone know if there is a metal-bodied version coming up?

 

yes, coming pretty soon they are making it i asked.

[AG1212]

Right, I'm a complete 'noob' when it comes to GBBRs and gas guns in general but this is definitely the direction I want to be going. I'm planing on getting the JG over the AGM as I'm going to replace the body anyway, but I heard from somewhere that the buffer tube threads are different on the AGM and I assume the JG aswell? Also what parts need replacing?( that is necessary for reliability and performance and not Gucci-ness) I know for sure that the hopup chamber needs replacing but does the hopup rubber need to be replaced as well? and what else needs to be replaced?

 

Sorry for the wall o' text but I'd really appreciate it if someone could answer some of my questions.

Thanks.

Edited August 30, 2009 by AG1212

[Luis21]

Right, I'm a complete 'noob' when it comes to GBBRs and gas guns in general but this is definitely the direction I want to be going. I'm planing on getting the JG over the AGM as I'm going to replace the body anyway, but I heard from somewhere that the buffer tube threads are different on the AGM and I assume the JG aswell? Also what parts need replacing?( that is necessary for reliability and performance and not Gucci-ness) I know for sure that the hopup chamber needs replacing but does the hopup rubber need to be replaced as well? and what else needs to be replaced?

 

Sorry for the wall o' text but I'd really appreciate it if someone could answer some of my questions.

Thanks.

 

The AGM M4 has it's own proprietary threading on the stock tube. The JG stock tube has WA threading, which is real steel threading.

 

You'll need to eventually replace the bolt catch with a steel one. RA-Tech offers the cheapest one for $15.

 

I'm not familiar with the JG hop-up chamber but it has been said that BBs don't roll out of it. However if you replace the chamber I'd also get a G&P or RA-Tech bucking to increase performance.

 

Eventually you'll also need to replace the plastic loading nozzle if you plan on using green gas/propane. If you use duster gas/134a then your gun will last longer.

 

There are many loading nozzles out there, RA-Tech, Pro-Arms, G&P/Airsoft Surgeon, WA, Element, and many others.

 

These are the critical upgrades. You can also upgrade the lower receiver internals for added durability and reliability but they're not needed right away.

 

-Luis

 

[AG1212]

The AGM M4 has it's own proprietary threading on the stock tube. The JG stock tube has WA threading, which is real steel threading.

 

You'll need to eventually replace the bolt catch with a steel one. RA-Tech offers the cheapest one for $15.

 

I'm not familiar with the JG hop-up chamber but it has been said that BBs don't roll out of it. However if you replace the chamber I'd also get a G&P or RA-Tech bucking to increase performance.

 

Eventually you'll also need to replace the plastic loading nozzle if you plan on using green gas/propane. If you use duster gas/134a then your gun will last longer.

 

There are many loading nozzles out there, RA-Tech, Pro-Arms, G&P/Airsoft Surgeon, WA, Element, and many others.

 

These are the critical upgrades. You can also upgrade the lower receiver internals for added durability and reliability but they're not needed right away.

 

-Luis

 

 

Grand job, cheers for the reply. Should I bother with any of the ACM steel parts? Last question, will AEG stocks and grips/RAS fit on the JG? I know AEG stocks fit on the AGM but as far as I remember they do not fit on the WA thus they shoudn't fit on the JG, right?

Thanks Again.

 

EDIT: I forgot to ask, If I get a steel bolt stop should I also get a new bolt? seeing as it is probably made from cheap China metal, the steel bolt stop would probably bash it to bits.

Edited August 30, 2009 by AG1212

[Stealthbomber]

If you want to use the AGM metal receiver(upper and lower) then you'll have to use the AGM stock tube(since the stock tube thread is proprietary) and an AEG barrel nut.

I don't think you want to be using an AEG barrel nut on a gun that uses the AGM barrel.

It'll only be held on by about half a thread.

 

The only time you can use an AEG barrel nut is if you fit a barrel with a thin collar at the rear end.

[Luis21]

I don't think you want to be using an AEG barrel nut on a gun that uses the AGM barrel.

It'll only be held on by about half a thread.

 

The only time you can use an AEG barrel nut is if you fit a barrel with a thin collar at the rear end.

 

This is true Stealth. Thanks for reminding us.

 

To answer the rest of your questions AG:

 

I do NOT have firsthand information that confirms the use of AEG RIS systems or stocks on the JG. AEG grips will not fit since you do not need to use a motor. Use real steel pistol grips or WA style grips.

 

I also do not know if the JG stock tube has a mil-spec diameter or a commercial diameter.

 

Getting a steel bolt carrier after upgrading your bolt catch to a steel one is a good idea. Like you said, over time the harder steel bolt catch will wear out the softer pot metal bolt carrier to the point that it won't catch.

 

-Luis

 

[gerrysnaps]

AEG handguards will drop in as the delta ring and front collar are suited to the same dimensions unlike with the AGM, with some caveats due to the gas tube. Seems the gas tube is thicker than that used on, say, A&K M4s. I tried dropping in a Gen 1 CQBR RIS and couldn't get the rear end to drop in without some force that may scrape or damage the gas tube, so I didn't force it. The Magpul MOE handguards for AEGs drop in fine.

 

AEG collapsible stocks over the 'stock' stock tube will drop in without any major wiggle. Just note that the stock tube's end cap is matched to the LE stock so dropping in say the original Colt M4A1 stock will have the end cap sticking out in the back. Like so:

 

 

Someone asked for pics of the receivers for thickness, not sure if this is what they meant but here is some info:

 

Lower receiver thickness is about 3.5mm on the thinnest parts.

 

 

Upper receiver thickness is about 2.5mm mostly, but 1.5mm at some points.

 

 

A peeve of mine, the markings don't seem to be in the right place. Just speaking from markings on AEG barrels, shouldn't these be on top and not on the right side?

 

 

Flashhider ought to be replaceable with AEG hiders, though I haven't yet tried the fit. Another peeve of mine, the pin seems to have been drilled in the wrong place? Shouldn't it be on the flat side of the hider? Looks as if JG has aligned the entire barrel sideways? Have no idea if their AEGs are the same as I have never owned a JG M4 until now.

 

 

I plan to replace the triangle sight with a low profile gas block though what gives me pause is the size of the pinned gas tube. It might be a tight fit or even an impossible fit. All the rest of the details seem the same dimensions as for AEGs.

 

 

Bigger versions here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cto-overwatch/

 

I haven't been able to shoot it at all lately (busy fixing up some LMGs!) but I'll report back with any problems in terms of feeding and shooting semi and auto.

Edited August 31, 2009 by gerrysnaps

[sear]

@gerrysnaps,

 

bro could you pm me the shop where you got your gun and the price?

[gerrysnaps]

So I was wrong about the pin on the birdcage flashhider, they actually got that right. The markings on the barrel ought to be on top though.

 

@sear PM sent.

[sear]

Thanks for the PM bro, btw, have you seen a local review of this GBB? I just checked one and there was a picture of a crack near the the front pin. The user said that the forward pin was "tapered flat" as he said keeping the pin in place.

[gerrysnaps]

Haven't looked in that area yet, I planned to just skirmish this stock for a while but if it's a serious issue I'll look into it. Any more details on the problem? Not sure from what you've stated what I should be looking at.