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Marui L96


scar527

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tanks trasher for the info.

 

I can see that pdi is the onlyone for now that has parts for this gun. MY Bar10 was a Laylax one but the L96 will be a PDI one.

 

You said that the PDI 130 spring with the internals give 500 fps sow it's not like the laylax springs where you need a 150 spring on the vsr to get to 500?

 

I can see on tokyo model shop that the sears are the same on the guns. If you put a 130 pdi spring will i need sears becease you talk about thats you need one more parts the zero trigger but does a zero trigger helps accuratie? i was thinking of not.

 

Swords,

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Well, I was impressed by PDI products so far, but today... they failed miserably.

 

To put short, the 90-degree piston end which comes with their new TM L96 v-trigger was designed by an idiot.

 

If you screw it fully to the HD piston body, the overall piston length is way too short for the sear to engage. You have experiment to find the right piston length and then glue the piston end in place to get the system working. Problem is, the piston end is not fully supported by the thread, and the plastic spacer around the piston body is loose. It's a laughable (but very annoying) mistake - I guess that's why this new product went suddenly out-of-stock at X-fire.org. :) The supplied two screws for the v-trigger box are differently sized. If you put them in the wrong order, the longer screw can damage the cylinder.

 

Before the whole ordeal with piston length, I also found out that the plastic loading lever (which strips the BBs from the mag, see here ) is broken. To make thing worse, this part is not reacting to cyanoacrilate "quick" glue... So at the moment, I have an expensive paperweight because of a weakly designed, rotating plastic thing. Nice job, Marui!

 

The more I work on the TM L96, the more I respect the simplicity of VSR (which also has a long list of weak spots)....

 

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If you screw it fully to the HD piston body, the overall piston length is way too short for the sear to engage. You have experiment to find the right piston length and then glue the piston end in place to get the system working. Problem is, the piston end is not fully supported by the thread, and the plastic spacer around the piston body is loose. It's a laughable (but very annoying) mistake - I guess that's why this new product went suddenly out-of-stock at X-fire.org. smile.gif

 

Wouldn't cutting spring guide a bit be the easiest solution to this?

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Sorry to bring this up again, i have some infos.

 

I have followed Trasher's mod almost identical. Meaning, i have used:

 

PDI Precision Cylinder Set for Marui L96 AWS(VC instead of HD)

PDI 130 Spring for Marui L96 AWS Series

PDI Barrel Spacer for Marui VSR-10 G-Spec / L96 AWS

PDI 2nd Sear for Marui VSR-10 / L96 AWS

Tokio Marui VSR 10 Hop-Up bucking

SCS (Shreder Concave Spacer) for TM L96 Hop-Up

 

 

Some differences besides the cylinder:

 

I have used the stock TM spring guide stopper and PDI 130 spring along with the stock TM bucking. I have not removed the white teflon spacers at all, i have preffered to adjust their inner diameter until the PDI cylinder worked perfect thru them withouth touching the metal of receiver. This was a time and nerve consuming experience...

 

pdi4.jpg

 

 

Also i have polished the outer barrel ring until untill i've got 22.2mm inner diameter and a perfect"mirror like" inner surface. The stock spring guide stopper was pushed inside with very small amount of force.

 

pdi5.jpg

 

Cycling, handling, feeding is exaclty as stock if not even better... I feel just a bit of more force to be applied when i push the bolt back, that is all. Maybe because of the maniacal polishing of the cylinder guides (white teflon spacers) and same for the outer barel ring...

 

pdi6.jpg

 

I have used the SCS nub and also have modified the TM bucking. The result is bellow.

 

pdi8.jpg

 

And installed (picture does not show too well, but is perfectly aligned)

 

pdi12.jpg

 

It was absolutelly impossible to fit the ABBR's, it can;t be done. The inner hop-up chamber is incredibly tight as it is.

 

Bottom line: It works perfect, i cannot belive how smooth i can operate the bolt (i know 130 is not 140, lol), i do not have any feeding problems or sear engagement problems. I do not see any reason at this point to wish for a PDI trigger. The noise is considerably higher than stock but i use a quite big silencer and the end result is amazing.

 

My tests will be conducted using SGM .29 because my goal is not for an astronomical speed or range, but for consistency and precission at moderate range/speed. At least for now...

 

 

Thank you everybody and special thanks to Trasher.

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Last changes for my rifle, and with these, i am done upgrading it:

 

PDI 6.01 Stainless steel barrel and PDI-140 spring.

 

601.jpg

 

Trasher, any news on the trigger ? I am still using the stock one, just the 2nd sear changed and the spring-guide stopper changed...

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Hmm, time to upgrade mine.

 

However, is there a definitive guide on how to upgrade to a reliable 500fps?

 

i.e exactly what is needed as a minimum, then what is desireable?

 

I'm far to lazy to trawl through 11 pages of nothing to look at the nuggets of juicy information.

 

Cheers folks.

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Is it cool to revive a "pinned" thread when it has laid dormant for 2 months?

 

 

I just purchased a used TM L96 AWS for $300 (US). Comes with 2-spare mags, TM bi-pod, Laylax silencer adapter and Laylax rail adapter. I'm pretty excited about it, as 1) everyone says "get a Tokyo Marui, they are the best..." and 2) I finaly purchased an L96 model with correct mag placement, that WORKS! I have owned the WELL clone, the UTG clone, and the WELL G96D (ARES AW338 clone), and I have been disappointed with all. I was going to try and fit the UTG guts into the WELL G96D body...that is until this TM L96 came up for sale.

 

So I made the right choice didn't I?

 

The owner states that the only mod done to the rifle is a DIY shim job on the spring, to try and boost FPS... I may go ahead and put the rifle back stock to see if there is even a benefit to compressing a stock spring to get more FPS out of the rifle.

 

Anyone want to see a stock photo of a Tokyo Marui L96 AWS? rifle.gif ...guess not huh?

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I got to chrono my TM L96 AWS, and I must say, that I was quite surprized... Lets just start by saying, that this rifle is quite accurate to 150 ft as many have stated. But what shocked me was how long it takes for the BB to get to said distance; 1.5 to 2 seconds, maybe more (I have not actually timed the shots). Then, came the chrono readings; I fired 5 shots of .20 bb's with an fps range of 269 to 284!!! So I question how Tokyo Marui is able to squeeze the distance it does out such low fps performance(?)

 

The only disappointment I feel about this rifle, is I was actually hoping for around 300 fps, but I don't suppose I would really tell much difference from what I am shooting now.

 

Note here, this rifle arrived to me well used (puchased from an individual). I mean there was surface rust on all outer screw hardware, and the bolt and stock was slightly off colored (from new), and the rifle was creaky and seemed very loose. When I got the rifle I started firing immediately, without any adjustments. Halfway through the 3rd mag, the barrel assembly nearly came off in my hands... Amazingly though, performance was spot on. After an hour of tightening all of the screws, I loaded up another mag, and the rifle is still shooting spot on.

 

I am looking forward to stripping this rifle down to the bare parts, and restoring it to like new condition. At which time, I will decide if I want to go back stock, or make a few modifications...I must say, I really like the easy pull on the bolt...if the accuracy performance was any less than what it is, I would start upgrading now, otherwise I find it hard to justify putting another $300 in the rifle for more fps...

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my last upgrade:

 

Instaling TF (noobie's Tru-Fit) from VSR to AWS.

 

Long story short: it does not enter the AWS chamber, and to make it worse, the brass wall is so thin that i do not recomend this to the people with no knowledge or proper tools.

 

cam-tf.jpg

 

I have used a dremel and a "diy" tool to polish that piece until it entered the chamber. I used this method because i want to keep my chamber intact, as it is stock.

 

tf.jpg

 

Once this was done, i have used .2000 sandpaper to polish the result.

 

tfdone.jpg

 

I have covered the index with poxipol resin.

 

teava.jpg

 

Using the SCS nub also.

 

scs.jpg

 

After around 10 bb shot i can say it shot very straight but it was shooting perfect without TF anyway. Only chrono will tell what exactly i have achieved.

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Explanation on detail:

 

TF gave me exactly nothing in terms of shooting. There is not one single difference between the rifle with or without TF in terms of speed (not even 2 fps gain), accuracy and consistency from shot to shot. Wich means, Trasher was right. Again. But i had to learn it my own way.

 

 

 

This happens because the TM chamber used in AWS cannot be improved in this way. It is already extremely tight, the hop up arm and its parts are different from VSR. long storry short: the TF may be real gold for VSR, but it gives nothing to AWS.

 

What is good about TF, even when used in AWS, is the fact that you can use the worn rubber many times by simply rotating it. What is REALLY good for me in particular about the TF system is: i know for sure the TM have made a hell of a chamber for this model.

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Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting an L96AWS in a month or two, will I be able to drop in a 500mm tightbore, SP150 spring and new hop rubber set without too much trouble? I want it running reasonably well, but can't afford to shell out the big money at the moment.

 

Cheers.

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