renegadecow Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 This build was consigned to me quite some time ago and it was only until now that I've felt like taking it on. Don't I sound like a princess? Seriously though I have to make this one as a breather after making so many HERA copies now. If I were to quote myself: "Using Tanaka shotgun shells in a direct transfer lever-type trigger is stupid because not only would the trigger pull be heavy, the power of the shot is directly related to how fast the trigger is pulled." And to quote my friend/client: "It's ok. Just make it. Make it cheap too. It's for show/backup for the most part anyway" OOOookaay. So here we go. Made the barrels fit the shell. Also a block is needed inside because a couple parts from the shell like to dislodge themselves when shot. Attached the hinge part for the barrels and made the basic frame for the receiver. That's about it so far. I'm mostly copying the Hudson/WaShan MadMax shotgun for looks, but I didn't bother making everything exact to make things quicker. This is a whole lot shorter with 8" barrels only while the MadMax one has a 12" at the least. Link to post Share on other sites
Lajjvo Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 Looking good, can't wait to see the final result. Great job so far, and good luck to you! Link to post Share on other sites
Bane Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 just as a thought and looking at your current platform.. a real double-barrel works by having two internal hammers on a very basic sear system, when the barrel is "Broken" the hammers are cocked back via a simple link bar that looks like a T shape.. its entirely possible you could replicate this design to work with those shells, so that when the hammer is in the "Fired" position it hits the valve open.. to make it simpler you could have the one hammer spring operate two linked hammers, so you'd only require three major parts for the whole system, linkage, hammer, and trigger.. if your interested i can do some sketches for you of how real-steel shotgun hammer and trigger designs are done the other option is go even more classic and go for an open-hammer design.. Link to post Share on other sites
AirsoftAddict Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 very nice Link to post Share on other sites
cazboab Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 just as a thought and looking at your current platform.. a real double-barrel works by having two internal hammers on a very basic sear system, when the barrel is "Broken" the hammers are cocked back via a simple link bar that looks like a T shape... For the airsoft version a simple lever as part of the trigger is all you need, this as a few advantages and no real disadvantage, With the system you describe the firing pin would lock the shell in place since it has to go fairly deep into the shell to fire it reliably. If you get a light strike with the floating pin design you need to reset the system by breaking open, in a lever only, you just pull harder. It also has no way to discharge a live round, this might not be too important since only a muppet would try, but various countries laws would prohibit such a system- which is what happened to Tanakas revolvers with similar shells. Loving the idea renegade, any chance you'll be taking commissions for these? You wont even have to paint them to send them to the UK, just say they're VCRA compliant . Link to post Share on other sites
Richwatts2002 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 love this idea bud! any chance of making a 40mm version? maybe over under instead of side by side! Link to post Share on other sites
Rizla Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 nice work so far, i'll be interested to see the finshed thing Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 cool project, but why not just buy a WA shan? you can even convert them to use tanaka shells if you want. Link to post Share on other sites
Warning Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 imho i think you should turn it into this instead Link to post Share on other sites
Cliffor Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 cool project, but why not just buy a WA shan? you can even convert them to use tanaka shells if you want. Really? Mind elaborating/ posting a link? This is a pretty cool project I must say, I knew someone had to do it eventually. Link to post Share on other sites
KMFDM Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 love this idea bud! any chance of making a 40mm version? maybe over under instead of side by side! I second that! Would at least love to see a such blueprint or build guide, though buying the finished product would be easier. Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Renegade I love how you work with PVC. It comes out amazing. Your eally should post a tut on how you work. Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Really? Mind elaborating/ posting a link? This is a pretty cool project I must say, I knew someone had to do it eventually. saw one in the US classifieds ages ago converted to use the CL slug/buckshot shells, cant really elaborate on that i'm afraid seconded on the force a nature for a future project. make it a 40mm too Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Any chance you'll be taking commissions for these? You wont even have to paint them to send them to the UK, just say they're VCRA compliant . Still trying to find a way to get them out of the country, I'm afraid. The last time I tried (Fed Ex too) I was told they have a standing order not to ship anything gun related be it an airsoft toy or an Uzi shaped bar of soap. cool project, but why not just buy a WA shan? you can even convert them to use tanaka shells if you want. Did I not mention my client was cheap? He wants this for a fraction of the washan. I'd have had the internal components of a real shotgun copied myself, but it would have to be metal to be durable which would end up costing abut as much as a washan. And yeah, you guys can stop clamoring for a side-by-side 40mm. It's definitely coming. To be honest, I was thinking about it even before this project started. But before that, some updates though few because of some power outages. built the back end of the receiver which will house the trigger components mock up of triggers, and stock Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 More done. Much more without them power outages. I'm trying to take more pictures per progress step so's you guys can see exactly how I go abouts building stuff. Double triggers cut out Barrel rib made and glued on Simplified breech lock open Closed. I found out that earlier shotguns used this simpler method instead of having an internal and self-locking catch. Added material on the breech lever and shaped. Partially assembled in my hand for size reference. It's kinda smaller than I thought it would be. Makes me want one for myself honestly, but I'm liking the "el muy muchos machos calibre" bigger brother better. Will be making the wood furniture today and work on the details like rounding corners and such. I'd be hard pressed to finish it though, being that its a beautiful horrible Saturday with the sun nowhere to be seen and looks like more rain. Link to post Share on other sites
nieb15 Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Very nice. Once you make the 40mm version, I'd definitely would want to buy one. Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappychappy Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Its the level of precision & attention to detail that gets me, and its all done with simple plastic pipes/ sheets. I hate you, but in a good way... Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Wow are you taking orders? Id love a single barrel version. Or a over under. Link to post Share on other sites
MotoSam Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 What type of glue do you use, they are pvc pipes and sheets are they? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 What type of glue do you use, they are pvc pipes and sheets are they? Industrial grade cyanoacrylate, not the typical "super glue" bought at hardware stores (those have extenders and thickeners), the kind used for making shoes and such. All the blue material is PVC. Finished inlaying the stock but still have to carve the outside. Both pieces are 3 layers of plank glued together. With the proper grain orientation, glue prep and sanding technique, it can be made to look as if it were one solid piece. edit: there's a picture of the glue on the first pic, top right corner. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Wow this is very very cool. I love it. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 IT WORKS!!! I'm formally recalling all the times I've said that Tanaka shells will suck with a lever for a hammer. With a 1:2 ratio for the length of the lever arms (shell axis is 15mm from pivot point while the trigger finger is at 30mm) the pull weight is reduced to a mere 8~12lbs with a long draw, much like any double action revolver. Wood parts shaped and roughly sanded. I've even put a beavertail (well, half of it since its sawed off) on the fore end. Trigger mechanism finished, you can see the transfer bar on the side Triggers reset Triggers pulled Since the Tanaka shells are self-resetting, I'm not adding springs to the triggers plus it helps lighten the trigger pull. Performance kinda blows though, even with propane my "chrono" (shot myself in the stomach) reads 140fps. But those were from the shells alone as I haven't installed an inner barrel of any sort. I'm thinking chopping up a cheap plastic or aluminum barrel 3" long should bring this to 250fps like my Detonics does. Or should I use a slightly larger diameter tube to spread out the shot even more? On my 8mm Mateba, using my custom 3x6mm shells spread the bbs man-size at 10m. Link to post Share on other sites
wilfire Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Wow, Very impressed. You are some kind of plastic forming god What colours is it going to get painted? (Assuming your going to paint it and not show off the fantastic plastic work) Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Was requested flat black on the plastic parts and unfinished for the wood. The owner wants to weather it himself although I've gone and stained the wood in walnut just the same because this wood is too light. Everything is finished now including the trigger guard which is just an oval strip of PVC stuck underneath but I didn't get to take a pic yet. Should be done painting it by tomorrow. I've also done some preliminary inner barrel tests with a plastic barrel from a cheap springer. Launched the entire inner barrel and temporary centering guides a good 20m. It's good I decided not to use my chrono for the test. Link to post Share on other sites
wilfire Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Ouch. On the plus side though at least you now know they do have quite a bit of power in the shells. So an inner barrel should help up the power quite a bit (if it'll stay in ) . Looking forward to seeing the finished photos now. Link to post Share on other sites
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